Author Topic: Open Ardbir - Open source platform for brewing process control and automation  (Read 36040 times)

gazz

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Just saw these are available now, had read a little about it..What's your thoughts on this bit of tech, love the open source ethos

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What is Open ArdBir ?

Open ArdBir is Open source platform for brewing process control and automation based on Arduino. The platform is intended for single vessel RIMS system and BIAB process.

The controller automates all the phases: from mashing, boiling and hops addition,cooling up to whirpool providing all the capability to both beginners and advanced homebrewers. The system is interactive and programmable and can be configured via 4 push buttons and LCD display provides all relevant information in all phases.

https://openardbir.ecwid.com

pob

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I've being working on this for a few weeks, it which would be handy for anyone using either a Grainfather, HERMS/RIMS or even BIAB with a recycle pump.

It's a ArdBir /Brauduino Step Mash Controller that can be a dropin replacement for the Grainfather controller. It is a lot friendlier to use than the STC1000+. It's all open source, the diagrams & schematices were relatively easy to work off.

Grainfather upgrade with ArdBir

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I'm going to use it on my own BIAB Keggle w/pump and I'll get Fishjam to tryit on his Grainfather & Ciderhead will try it on his HERMS.

Ignore my crappy dremel work on the LCD surround & iffy electric wiring; I'm getting a bigger project box and proper connectors (Nuetrix, GX16, IEC), heatsinks, etc. AliExpress are doing well out of me at the moment.

(Then I'll sell you all one & make millions & retire to a sunny island!!!)




Some video of it in action whilst holding the camera in one hand. Apologies in advance for out of focus iphone camera & lack of tripod.


In action, with the auto steps you can set.


Initial test with a single element & ~20L water, a bit slow to heat but PID was very smooth (Flashing 'H' on left hand side as it pulses power). Very wobbly, one handed camera work while trying to connect plugs.


2nd test in Keggle with ~30L water and more dodgy camera work. I've tried it with 2 elements (& 2 SSRs) and just needs fine tuning the PID to match water volume size & element power rating, it was over hitting mark. Step times were set to 1 minute to speed up the process to see it in action. I renamed Step Mash titles to make it easier.

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Step Mashs based on BYO article





Acid Rest:
Phytase:              5min @   35C
Beta-glucanase:  10min @  45C

Protein Rest:
Peptidase/Proteinase:         15min @  57.2C

Saccharification:
Beta-amylase:     20min @  62.7C
Alpha-amylase:   15min @  67.8C

Mash out:           10min @  75.6C

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A nice video of it in action, albeit in Italian.


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They're now designing a smaller, cheaper?, single sided board using the Arduino Nano, next on my list.
« Last Edit: September 18, 2015, 12:28:07 PM by pob »

molc

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Ohhh, that's nice. I wonder what it would take to get an AirBir to work with OneWire. Then I could mod it to work with all my probes and do the control instead of the BrewPi, which seems to be in slight limbo, as they have bitten off more than they can chew I think... >:)
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

pob

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It is OneWire, uses the same DS18b20 probes and SSRs as the BrewPi.
It's very similar, very little to swap it in to where your BrewPi sits.

Catch you on Sat.

molc

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It is OneWire, uses the same DS18b20 probes and SSRs as the BrewPi.
It's very similar, very little to swap it in to where your BrewPi sits.

Catch you on Sat.
Just figured that out as well. Nice! Just need to make a RJ11 connection on the side of the box and it's plug and play.

Yeah, we'll have a chat tomorrow about this >:)
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

pob

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or use a GX16 type plug/socket @ ~€1.50ea



& some made up DS18b20 probes @ ~€1.50ea



and you'll have new set for €3 (if you can put up with a 4-6 week wait from China)

pob

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First day brewing with the ArdBir, something for the Smithwicks Challenge.

Some pics & vids from the brewday

Fantastic & very easy to use. I was able to plug it in & press go, came back 20 or so mins later & water was sitting at strike temp, exactly to the 0.1C.

Two, very minor issues (one my fault);
  • I need to get a louder buzzer, easy enough.
  • When it asks you have you added the malt, once water has been heated to strike temp, press the yes button, otherwise it'll continue to heat as you're mashing in, Doh?   :-[

As I was adding in the grain I noticed it was still heating, "Why?", I asked. Oh yeah, the grain was cooling it down to the 1st Mash Temp as it was been added, as it should when you're mashing in (thats why Strike Temp is higher than Mash Temp), but the ArdBir hadn't been told that, by me, so it keep on trying to get back to the Strike Temp.

Once in use it worked great. I'll look at fine tuning the PID settings, they were very good. No overshoots, maybe a tad slow getting to the last 0.5C or so (settings a bit cautious?).

As it was my first brew with it, I just stirred the mash each time it was heating up, rather than using a pump. Next time I'll use a March/Chugger pump to allow recirculation. It's using two 2.2kW kettle elements running on two seperate cables (controlled by 2 SSRs) on a suitable circuit (would be nice to go all fancy and use those splashproof 16A plugs in the future).

Next steps:
  • Fit all parts into new enclosure with larger single SSR heatsink.
  • Fit plugs/glands for all cables.
  • Fine tune PID settings (currently P=50, I=1, D=10)
  • Connect pump

molc

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Looking good! Getting more and more tempted by this solution, but need to first work out a circuit diagram, so I can make a box with two power plugs and a some switches for the pumps etc.

Have you wired both SSR's to fire off the single output of the ardbir? Also, have you wired in the pump at all or are you just going to do that manually?
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

pob

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Have you wired both SSR's to fire off the single output of the ardbir? Also, have you wired in the pump at all or are you just going to do that manually?

Yep, the SSRs only need a small feed to trigger them (blue screw terminal on board, bottom right of 1st photo). The pump is wired up on the shield (black terminal), just didn't connect this time as I was trying to get electrics working first, I used the 2nd SSR to drive the second element.

For the next build I would use a single large SSR heatsink (for both heating SSRs) with sealing to prevent splashes getting into box. I will use a single Relay to switch pump (smaller & doesn't need PWM controll of SSR).






Could go for a bigger enclosure for neatness inside.
Current box size: (w) 165mm x (d) 140mm x (h) 85mm

(Proper mounting, earthing, cable glands, cable ties will be completed with new box, this box has been reused from other project.)

And for when the funds allow, go to something like this:





molc

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Cool. Pretty similar to my plans, though I'm thinking 2x 16A inputs to the box, so I can power it from two domestic circuits. Then there is a 2.8kw circuit for BK, a 2.5kw HLT element, which leaves enough power to run 2x chugger from that circuit as well.

The last brewday, I actually used three circuits, with the pumps and spark on the third.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

pob

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MkII board.
Neater wiring for Arduino board, grey flying cables trigger the heating & pump SSR/Relay.


McMelloW

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Some pictures of builiding an ArdBir Control Box for my Grainfather.
My goal is to unplug the original control box and just plugin the ArdBir control box and brew.


The Open ArdBir all on one board


All the components, 2 GX16 plugs are still on their way from China


Base plate, cut from the side of an old PC cabinet. With the power supply 12V=; the heating SSR and the pump relay.


The box with the lid


Details of the front panel, beautifully designed by GutoSan. You can download the 3D file and have it printed on a 3D printer. Via 3Dhubs.com I found a cheap local 3D printer service. Check it, there might be some cheap 3D printer service in your neighbourhood.

To be continued
Greetings McMelloW

IBU = I Brew in Utrecht
with a Grainfather and an Open ArdBir control box

pob

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See thats how to do it properly.

What PID settings are you using for the Grainfather?

How much was the LCD bezel?

McMelloW

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See thats how to do it properly.

What PID settings are you using for the Grainfather?

How much was the LCD bezel?
Thanks very much.

An experient ArdBir user adviced me to start with P=100;  I=20; D=5. I will make a temp curve of the Grainfather as well for tuning the PID

I bought the package from the Ardbir Webstore € 89,-- + postage.  The 3d Front panel was € 15,=
There is a panel file with round buttons and a file with a keypad. Make sure you have the right one.
Greetings McMelloW

IBU = I Brew in Utrecht
with a Grainfather and an Open ArdBir control box

McMelloW

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@Pob

A quick question:
A Grainfather has a 2000W hetaing elemnt. Do you think I have to use a heatsink for the SSR?

Greetz
McMelloW
Greetings McMelloW

IBU = I Brew in Utrecht
with a Grainfather and an Open ArdBir control box