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Charlie Shiels elements or Argos kettle?

Started by delzep, June 16, 2013, 12:28:34 PM

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johnrm

Look here Eoin...
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,178.msg1584.html#msg1584

A Domestic kette has 2 Bimetallic strips that shut the kettle off.
Both of these are calibrated for over 100C.

The first shut off is the 'Boil' - triggered by the steam from the water being boiled.
The steam is ducted to a Bimetallic switch and shuts off the the switch when STEAM over 100C hits it.

The second shut off is 'Dry Boil' - triggered by the element overheating.
Normally, heat is conducted away from the Kettle Element by the water being heated. If this evaporates, the element is heating air, a poor conductor, so the element goes over 100C and the Dry-Boil kicks in.

As we are hacking the core from the kettle, the 'Boil' is effectively by passed and will never kick in.

We are dealing with solutions that have a higher gravity than water, and get progressively higher from boiling/evaporation.
We are Boiling fopr 45, 60 or 90 minutes at a time.
Both of the above mean that we are touching on temps that trip the Dry Boil shut off.


Ciderhead

It's much safer to keep your cut outs intact, they are there for a reason!
Keep your elements clean and you will never have a problem!



johnrm

Have you managed to boil dry 23l?  O0

Is there a boil-dry cutout in CS Elements?

LordEoin

I'm going to do both and look into getting a regulator.
Last thing I want is for it to cut out again later mid boil.
Thanks folks

johnrm

Quote from: LordEoin on February 10, 2014, 11:56:57 AM
Last thing I want is for it to cut out again later mid boil.

+1

I think that was one of the BJCP questions...
A good rolling boil and perfect beer is far more important than personal safety. True or False  ???

Have we a linky for a regulator?

Ciderhead

NoooooooĊ“
I suppose I have never had one cut out even boiling 1.1's
It's a fiddly job and you are taking out a level of safety not necessary, like when you plug in elements before you fill boiler.
They are also telling you, clean us ya doirty bastard!
You Cork fellas are living on the edge, ya mad things!

Ciderhead

Quote from: johnrm on February 10, 2014, 01:59:53 PM
Have we a linky for a regulator?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10000W-220v-Adjust-SCR-Voltage-Regulator-Motor-Speed-control-Dimmer-Thermostat-/151077711401?ssPageName=ADME%3AX%3AAAQ%3AGB%3A1123&nma=true&si=tEXgR1StDqPhYues993toueYV9E%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

You really only need

My argos element draws just over 8A x 235mains voltage = 1880W

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-220V-3800W-SCR-Voltage-Regulator-Dimmers-Speed-Controller-Thermostat-PR/271349434394?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222006%26algo%3DSIC.FITP%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20181%26meid%3D4739717716584732548%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D9057%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D151077711401

JD

Just one thing to watch out for with those SCR dimmer units: they may not be great when it comes to generating radio frequency interference. It's hard to tell from the details on the ebay pages whether they are RFI safe or not. Unless they are identified as zero-crossing they probably aren't. Without zero-crossing circuitry, these units can generate substantial RFI. You can "rule of thumb" check by bringing an AM radio near them when they are dimming by say 50%. The buzzing sound is RFI. No buzzing means you've got the good kit.

/J

Ciderhead

I am not planning on having any more kids ;D
Apart from interruption of my listening to the Archers on LW what are the other problems JD?

JD

Your audio systems might buzz a little more than usual but the 'nads are safe, CH. ;)
/J

Ciderhead

Just found these for anyone who can't find a local electrical retailer or has access to Charlie Shiels or not happy taking apart argos kettles, not cheap but 2.75W

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-2750Watt-230V-Kettle-Bain-Marie-Heating-Element-Kettle-Connector-/310759398910?pt=UK_Homes_Garden_Kitchen_Kettles&hash=item485ab41dfe

LordEoin

I snipped the little thermal cutout and cleaned the elements up with a citric acid bath and attack with a toothbrush and they're keeping a rolling boil perfectly now.

I also fixed the leaking by slightly shortening the 3 screws that hole the whole lot together with a hobby drill.
I reckon that they were leaking because the walls of a keg are slightly thinner than the wall of the kettle they're designed for.

All tested and running like clockwork, time for a cup of tea. Overkill?


delzep


LordEoin