Dremel tool or similar:

[johnrm]

Hi Kev, Nice cooler.
I was looking at these an1d have the xext one up on order (Xtreme one, same capacity, I'm picky)
The lid on your one is not insulated AFAIK,but you should be able to squirt in expanding foam filler.
I reckon punch a series of small breather holes with a nail around the perimeter and fill from the hole on the end.
Another mod I would suggest would be to make hinges from pieces of Plastic milk carton, say 2 x 50mm squared. Use a few small self-tappers to keep them in place.

[Hop Bomb]

I got my SS weldless ball valve tap kit in HBW. I got my copper pipe, tees, elbows, brass nipple & braided hose in Walsh's heating & plumbing on tuam rd.

I got two stainless steel jubilee clips in Caulfield's next door to them. They're behind the counter so ask a staff member.

http://goo.gl/maps/J36Z5

[Kevco5]

The lid is fairly light alright, cheers John some handy tips there. I would never have thought of making a hinge!

Didn't even think of walsh's Tom, they're probably the best prices alright!

[Kevco5]

Productive day today, finished off my mash tun build.
Costs:
Cooler box €43.00
Plumbing parts €29.00

Total €72.00

[Hop Bomb]

Looks great Kev. I finished mine today. The syphon effect is amazing. It leaves hardly anything behind. Looking forward to using it this week sometime.

[Kevco5]

Cheers Tom
Couple of more bits for it and a HLT and I'm good to go all grain! Looking forward to it now!
The syhpon should see your efficiency issues be put to bed!

[Hop Bomb]

Fingers crossed. Started on my integrated sparge system for it last night. I still have to drill the holes & solder it together.

[Ciderhead]

wow pretty impressive and loving that but no way of knowing with lid closed you are getting even distribution of water to avoid channelling or permanently maintaining water an inch or 2 above grain bed

[Hop Bomb]

I can lift the lid & look in    Only time will tell though. In my defence this sparge design will give an even sprinkle to prevent channeling. I copied this method from others on US forums who claim efficiency in the high 80s. My manifold on the bottom is built using John Palmers plans with 4 bars twice the distance apart & half that distance from the cooler wall. Again to prevent channeling. 

Ive had awful efficiency problems up to now so Im sure this will see me right. Il post results once I get a chance to brew with it.

[Ciderhead]

its ok there was no need for a defence
I have exactly the same design and cooler.
My copper feed pipe in the middle comes out at a 15 degree angle so the cooler is just open.
Over a 50-60 min fly sparge I am constantly tweeking the flow of input and output
Temp of my hlt and sparge water is regulated using STC1000 with probe in drip stream of the sparge.

[Hop Bomb]

I just drilled a hole in an 80.00e cool box. The defence is warranted as I try and justify this design to myself (and the internet) 

I just converted another keg to a HLT. Ive it double insulated with that bubble foil & my dial thermometer should be here soon. I might go electric for the HLT & that'll free up my gas ring for my boiler. (dont feel like buying another ring or moving full kegs of stuff around)

Any links to a decent element for 50L keg HLT? Do they have to be welded?

[Ciderhead]

I just drilled a hole in an 80.00e cool box. The defence is warranted as I try and justify this design to myself (and the internet) 

I just converted another keg to a HLT. Ive it double insulated with that bubble foil & my dial thermometer should be here soon. I might go electric for the HLT & that'll free up my gas ring for my boiler. (dont feel like buying another ring or moving full kegs of stuff around)

Any links to a decent element for 50L keg HLT? Do they have to be welded?

Sorry Plastic fantastic man here, Shanna will mark your card.

[Shanna]

Hi Hop bomb,

Check out www.theelectricbrewery.com for links to Amazon and eBay for 5.5kw heating elements.  I recently converted a large ss vessel to add one.  The conversion uses a large hexagonal nut, large ss washer and orings for as compression fitting.  The problem is most of the sites referenced are in the us so I had to get friends and family living in the us to help forward parts on (in hoc to people for years to come

Other issue with so large an element is that you just can't plug it in.  It requires a dedicated socket and fuse (approx 26 amps). Brother is an electrician so got this sorted eventually.  Other option is to use two smaller hearing elements salvaged from kettles or heating elements bought from electrical suppliers. Assume these to be 2kw each and use these two together to heat the water. I have plans to create a wort boiler to do this as I don't think a 5.5kw element is flexible enough to maintain a rolling boil.  My plan is to use two 220v scr voltage regulator dimmer switches from eBay to control the elements. Still working on this so won't know how it works for a while yet.

Hope this helps.

Shanna

Any links to a decent element for 50L keg HLT? Do they have to be welded?

[Shanna]

Hi Hop Bomb,

Would you mind posting a link to the dial thermometer you ordered please?

Shanna

I just converted another keg to a HLT. Ive it double insulated with that bubble foil & my dial thermometer should be here soon.

[Hop Bomb]

Cheers for the reply. I wont be using it as a boil kettle. Just to heat strike & sparge water so probably 75c or so. Would I get away with a smaller locally sourced element?

Here is the probe thermometer:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Dial-Analog-Thermometer-Weldless-Kit-2-Probe-0-220-Degrees-Homebrew-Mash-/270963909047?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f16b521b7

Ive got one on my boiler already. Works great. Its got a screw on the back for calibration.