Important lesson learnt

[Leann ull]

So wanted some hot water to clean out kegs and threw on my 70l boiler rcd tripped 3 mins later




Pin of the element





The element had done at least 10-12 boils before now.
I'm not sure it's because I didn't push the connector on fully and it arced or whether the element hadn't been cleaned properly underneath and went cruddy.
Connector worked perfectly on other element.

Either way
1. make sure if you are using kettle elements push on connector properly
2. Always give your elements a good scrub after use, I need to go back to the toothbrush to get underneath

[Greg2013]

If ya need a spare element drop by and pick it up.

[Leann ull]

Cheers Greg but this is a 13amp jobbie, I wouldn't mind but just because it's a beast I didn't have a spare, 2 enroute this ave now though to match my other redundancy standards

[auralabuse]

I would say there was a gap and it arced, looks that way

[Leann ull]

2.75kw replacement arrived installed and leak tested no probs
Turned both upside down to give me more space off the bottom for better whirlpool and easier access with a toothbrush to clean into nooks and crannies



And a spare

[alealex]

Where did you get those elements John? They're not ss or are they? 5/4 inch thread?

[Leann ull]

Standard thread 39mm I think
Are all kettle elements galvanised I don't know tbh I'm sure they are stainless they don't rust
If I wasn't replacing a failed unit I would drill for 3kw lwd  long version from home brew builder although you would need something else if you were boiling more than 40 like me
Having 2 elements is always handy in case 1 craps out
They came from the backer site direct in the uk don't forget the female round pin part which is on eBay for a tenner

[alealex]

Lwd are great job. I'm actually looking for copper element to fit 5/4 ferule welded to the tank (hard to get!)
Elements are not always s/s.
There's some reaction going between element and ss tank while boiling. First element I had lost its galvanised or chrome coating after about 20 boils.
Ss one seems much better now.
But I trust copper better.

[Leann ull]

I'm sure it's stainless just feels rough on bend the sister has done over 20 60 and 90 min boils now of a lot of high gravity stuff no rust and I'm sure it failed because of my negligence rather than unit

[Shanna]

Standard thread 39mm I think
Are all kettle elements galvanised I don't know tbh I'm sure they are stainless they don't rust
If I wasn't replacing a failed unit I would drill for 3kw lwd  long version from home brew builder although you would need something else if you were boiling more than 40 like me
Having 2 elements is always handy in case 1 craps out
They came from the backer site direct in the uk don't forget the female round pin part which is on eBay for a tenner

Is the site ?
http://www.backerelectric.com/products/kettle_elements.asp

Shanna

[alealex]

Checked this site myself and I think this must be their site. Not much in it only heating elements and thermostats btw. At least solid elements!

[molc]

Managed to run both my kettles dry at the weekend through stupidity. Thankfully only lost one of the elements - the ULWD glowed but kept working after through some miracle. The high density one is toast.

Got two of these to replace: http://www.amazon.co.uk/First4Spares-Universal-Heating-Element-Connector-x/dp/B00E4L4MFA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_79_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41tRilh8ajL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1YTT9BQV8K5B8R88FVP7

Really hope they're 2.75kW - there's nothing on the page :/

[Leann ull]

I'm not even going to ask
to prolong the life of the elements in the hlt I always leave them covered to avoid excessive thermal shock.

Ones with circular pins are 2.7
See also questions asked in the description.

Do you have stainless nuts for the back?

[DEMPSEY]

Check all valves are closed. I should have put that on a repeating timer.

[molc]

I'm not even going to ask
Ones with circular pins are 2.7
See also questions asked in the description.

Do you have stainless nuts for the back?

Late night brew and some stupidity. Going to change process to stop it happening in the future, as I managed to empty both the BK and HLT while the elements were running.

Circular pins is a great hint - thanks!

No, I don't have any lock nuts. I've been using the plastic one that came with the THBC elements up to now and it works with judicious use of PDFE tape. Will hunt down lock nuts on ebay though for these.

Check all valves are closed. I should have put that on a repeating timer.

Been there, done that. Now I have a bucket under each tap, just in case