Advise on a keggle build.

[Motorbikeman]

I managed to get my hands on a couple of kegs. 

After getting good results in the past witha plastic bucket boilers and a bucket mash tun I want to get a better set up going.  I sold all that and went back to kits,  but after a year of brew kits,  I have come to the conclusion that they suck.   

My new system.

It has to be portable , as it all needs stacked in a small shed after I finish brewing in the yard.

Im thinking I may not really need two as the HLT and the boiler can do the same job, and find an igloo for mashing in.   

Im in no rush , but as my kids and mortgage suck every cent from my meager pockets each week, I would like to keep costs down .

The internet is almost too full of ideas,     But I quite like this guys effort.  The problem is,  he has no parts list.  http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=51631

I have basic electrical skills as a maintenance technician in a factory many years ago. I could tackle the electrics with a bit of guidance.

Any suggestions on what to do?  Should I bother with HLT or even a pump?   

[molc]

If I was building again, I'd make something like a grainfather. Get a Stockpot you can fit in the keg, drill holes in the top and bottom and use that as a mash bag. Then put a valve on the bottom and recirculate during mash for temp control. End of the mash, whip the grain out, maybe sparge and off you go.

A 3V setup is great, but takes a lot of space and also a lot of time to physically build. If I didn't have mine in place and cleaned in place, I wouldn't have bothered.

[itsclinto]

I'm in the process of constructing a keggle as well.  I have been using a plastic boiler with tesco elements for BIAB which have worked well but i wanted the freedom of not having to look out for a boil over, to step mash and just have shiny things.  I was thinking about having a RIMS system for a while but i have changed my mind to have a more neater system.  The thought is just to have the one vessel like a grainfather but with a larger capacity, which should be able to do everything.

The idea is to have a bottom draining keggle with a pid to control the two tesco elements and have a pump to recirculate the whole lot.  I've been picking up pieces over the last while and so far i have a solar pump, the fittings, a sightglass and a hop stopper http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shippping-brand-new-14-35cm-Stainless-Steel-Hop-Spider-Home-Brew-Beer-Hop-Filter/32373728442.html.  I seen an electrical diagram which runs off two plugs and controls two elements thats simple and i was gonna add a 3 way switch so that i can control the elements manually and bypass the pid.  I was also thinking about having a mesh to stand above the elements so the BIAB will not come into contact with them and an ikea mesh guard on the bottom so i can stop bits getting into the pump and to catch the cold break.  My control panel i'm hoping will have electrical quick disconnects so everything can be put in the keggle for storage.

Its an idea that i was thinking of for a while and i'm slowly picking up pieces and changing my mind slightly (especially when you trawl through the internet).  Food for thought!

[armedcor]

If you're set on using a keg I'd stick with one for the boiler and then a cooler mash tun. I just collect my first runnings in buckets and use my one pot as boiler and hlt. Less equipment to mess around with and does the job well enough!

[Motorbikeman]

Some great ideas. 

I was thinking of meshing in a cooler and just using a thermometer and an on/off switch to achieve strike temp .  It seemed like a simple method   with my old buckets. 

But using temp control does sound sexy as hell.   

And has me thinking hard. 

I have one important question  though.     I have a 32amp ring to the sockets in the kitchen.   A separate 32 amp supply to upstairs hot press and another 32 amp to all the other sockets in the house.   

I think i'm going to have to run a second extension into my hall way to pick up a separate circuit  from the kitchen.   Last thing I want it damage to my home.     when heating im going to be using 5000w at once.     Is that too much for one circuit? 

Has anyone tried these?   They look tidy and have a socket...  http://www.heatingelementcompany.co.uk/default.asp?Product=287

[darren996]

Some great ideas. 

I was thinking of meshing in a cooler and just using a thermometer and an on/off switch to achieve strike temp .  It seemed like a simple method   with my old buckets. 

But using temp control does sound sexy as hell.   

And has me thinking hard. 

I have one important question  though.     I have a 32amp ring to the sockets in the kitchen.   A separate 32 amp supply to upstairs hot press and another 32 amp to all the other sockets in the house.   

I think i'm going to have to run a second extension into my hall way to pick up a separate circuit  from the kitchen.   Last thing I want it damage to my home.     when heating im going to be using 5000w at once.     Is that too much for one circuit? 

Has anyone tried these?   They look tidy and have a socket...  http://www.heatingelementcompany.co.uk/default.asp?Product=287

I had two of those elements in my first biab setup and they were a bitch to seal and that was on a plastic bucket. The elements themselves are good but you will need to buy km8 locknuts and you might need to make your own silicone gasket to get a good seal. If i was doing a keggle i would go for a 3kw or higher camco style element and i would insulate the keg. Check brewpi for ekements and gaskets.

[Motorbikeman]

gREAT SITE. 

Would one of these be good enough to bring 30L up to a boil?        If so,  is there a simple dial type controller for such an element?
https://store.brewpi.com/featured/stainless-steel-foldback-heating-element-3200w-32cm

[Leann ull]

Molc has them he will know, at 3500w you will exceed standard wiring capability

As with all electrical stuff just don't unless you are sure

From ESB Networks brochure

[Motorbikeman]

Thanks CH.  I might go with two of the elements you went for and run a line to another area of my home for the second.. 

  How much are they each?

[molc]

gREAT SITE. 

Would one of these be good enough to bring 30L up to a boil?        If so,  is there a simple dial type controller for such an element?
https://store.brewpi.com/featured/stainless-steel-foldback-heating-element-3200w-32cm

I got the 2.8kw one and it gets there, slowly. Added a second hbc element and it flies along now, using pwm to throttle to 80% for the bill.

One thing that I noticed when putting in a second element is that the wires don't get warm anymore. Since the setup is more powerful than needed, the ardbir throttles the elements and it heats faster and is on for less time. Win win.

Just makes sure to run them on separate circuits in your house.

[Motorbikeman]

I'm in the process of constructing a keggle as well.  I have been using a plastic boiler with tesco elements for BIAB which have worked well but i wanted the freedom of not having to look out for a boil over, to step mash and just have shiny things.  I was thinking about having a RIMS system for a while but i have changed my mind to have a more neater system.  The thought is just to have the one vessel like a grainfather but with a larger capacity, which should be able to do everything.

The idea is to have a bottom draining keggle with a pid to control the two tesco elements and have a pump to recirculate the whole lot.  I've been picking up pieces over the last while and so far i have a solar pump, the fittings, a sightglass and a hop stopper http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shippping-brand-new-14-35cm-Stainless-Steel-Hop-Spider-Home-Brew-Beer-Hop-Filter/32373728442.html.  I seen an electrical diagram which runs off two plugs and controls two elements thats simple and i was gonna add a 3 way switch so that i can control the elements manually and bypass the pid.  I was also thinking about having a mesh to stand above the elements so the BIAB will not come into contact with them and an ikea mesh guard on the bottom so i can stop bits getting into the pump and to catch the cold break.  My control panel i'm hoping will have electrical quick disconnects so everything can be put in the keggle for storage.

Its an idea that i was thinking of for a while and i'm slowly picking up pieces and changing my mind slightly (especially when you trawl through the internet).  Food for thought!

I have been looking and thinking about this for the last few days, and im trying to find a big advantage over this type of design over a coolbox &  keg boiler set up.     What are they?     

 

[molc]

Less stuff but TBH, the all in one is a little messy when you life the grain tube, unless you are brewing outdoors. I personally like having the mash separate but it does mean you have to do a liquid transfer.

[itsclinto]

I have been looking and thinking about this for the last few days, and im trying to find a big advantage over this type of design over a coolbox &  keg boiler set up.     What are they?     

As molc said, its really just a biab with temperature control.  My initial idea was rims but thought it's awkward with the external tube etc so after seeing a couple of americans using gas to keep the mash temperature constant, why can't i with electric elements.  The elements tied in to a pid mean that i can do step mashes and mash outs before removing the grain for the boil.  Thats the idea anyway 

[Motorbikeman]

Hi. 

In my Boil Kettle.   I have ordered 2  2k elements and leads , and have a thermometer for it, cut and cleaned her up a bit.

Im just not sure what way to drain it best.



Should I use a simple dip tube into the middle, or keep the dip tube up a bit to the side to avoid trub and hops after a good stir? 

Should I attach a bazooka screen or make a false bottom with the top bit I cut away? 

Youtube is full of great tips , but its hard to sort the shit set ups from the good.

[Leann ull]

I started with centre drain years ago and no amount of trub filters bazookas and everything else stopped all the crap coming through and although a small bit of trub is fine i am not a fan. In the end a side drain with a pipe (chadwicks sell bendy SS ones to follow shape of keg) placed to pick up at the same level as the start of the curvature of the keg. when you have finished your boil and cooled, a stir with a sanitised plastic paddle on a drill leave for 20 mins and you will have clean wort with all the crap sitting in the curve.   You will loose 5 litres but its just crap at the bottom and put that calc into you beersmith or what you have measured on a water test.

Nice cut btw
Don't forget to earth your elements