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Mayo mayo

Started by Chriswaters, December 31, 2020, 09:34:57 PM

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Chriswaters

New brewer based in Partry, Mayo. Glad to join the club.  Anyone local to share tips and bottles let me know

colm89

Welcome to the club, I'm not a million miles from you in Enniscrone!

Chriswaters

Hey colm,  enniscrone not to far, a few good spots for surfing round there I get up to when I can.  I was checking out your posts,  have you still got the wort chiller? been recommended as my next purchase.

colm89

Quote from: Chriswaters on January 01, 2021, 04:36:13 PMHey colm,  enniscrone not to far, a few good spots for surfing round there I get up to when I can.  I was checking out your posts,  have you still got the wort chiller? been recommended as my next purchase.

Sorry, don't know how I missed this, I do still have it but actually going to hold onto it til I see how my latest no chill brew turns out before making a final decision!

Matt DBrewer

Hey Chris,

Sorry, haven't been checking here as much since the the Discord platform was launched! I'm based in Castlebar and am definitely interested in bottle swops and anything else that might be going on!
"Passionate about craft beer and brewing"
❇️Connacht Homebrewers
❇️Midlands Beer Club (Ireland)
❇️National Homebrew Club Committee
📍Mayo, Ireland 😁🍻

Chriswaters

No problem,  I forgot to check this myself the last few weeks

Chriswaters

Second brew just bottled last night.  Im doing the BIAB method and can only get about 15litres in the pot for the boil. I have been ha)ving measurements so far but plan on doing two mashes with the same water and then diluting down again when going in the fermenter.

Any suggestions?

Matt DBrewer

What final volume are you looking for? The technique you're referring to is called reiterated mashing, and while it is useful to increase your original specific gravity, it's quite inefficient. If you're looking for greater volume, I'd do two separate mashes and combine them in the fermenter... it will take the same time, but should be better from an efficiency perspective?
"Passionate about craft beer and brewing"
❇️Connacht Homebrewers
❇️Midlands Beer Club (Ireland)
❇️National Homebrew Club Committee
📍Mayo, Ireland 😁🍻

Chriswaters

Im looking for 20 litres.  Just about hitting 10 litres bottled. Am I wasting grain by adding more to offset that? Currently im cooking the wort by placing my hole pot in cold water outside and adding a half litre of frozen water, it takes a while to cooldown and so far(only twice) transferring to the fermenter and pitching yeast the following morning.  Im thinking the two separate brews will make it difficult to cool and start again. My fermenter is the plastic kind,  will that hold the wort ok and I cool it in that you think?

Matt DBrewer

Apologies, i said fermenter, I meant kettle!! ... If your max mash volume is 15l, and you are looking for 20l, I would mash 2x 10l and then boil them together... a mashout step would be advisable after the first mash to halt enzyme activity
"Passionate about craft beer and brewing"
❇️Connacht Homebrewers
❇️Midlands Beer Club (Ireland)
❇️National Homebrew Club Committee
📍Mayo, Ireland 😁🍻

Chriswaters

Do you mean two separate mashes in the same water/wort? Do two separate 10l boils and add one after the other in the fermenter?I won't fit 20l to boil in my kettle.i start off with 15 litres, which turn into about 11 in the fermenter.

Im not sure what a mash out step is.

Thanks for the help by the way

Matt DBrewer

No problem!

Ah, I understand now... your max kettle volume is 15 litres... yeah, you could try a reiterated mash to increase the starting gravity and then add boiling water to top up to 20l ... If you have no way of cooling quickly, google the 'no chill' or cube method... there's much less risk if contamination as the wort is in a sealed container... I wouldn't advise adding frozen water directly to your wort after boiling as it risks contamination ... a mash out step is where you increase the temperature of your mash at the end to above 76° which stops any more conversion so that your end beer has the body you were aiming for
"Passionate about craft beer and brewing"
❇️Connacht Homebrewers
❇️Midlands Beer Club (Ireland)
❇️National Homebrew Club Committee
📍Mayo, Ireland 😁🍻

colm89

Quote from: Chriswaters on January 29, 2021, 09:37:03 AMIm looking for 20 litres.  Just about hitting 10 litres bottled. Am I wasting grain by adding more to offset that? Currently im cooking the wort by placing my hole pot in cold water outside and adding a half litre of frozen water, it takes a while to cooldown and so far(only twice) transferring to the fermenter and pitching yeast the following morning.  Im thinking the two separate brews will make it difficult to cool and start again. My fermenter is the plastic kind,  will that hold the wort ok and I cool it in that you think?

If you use Brewfather you can set up an equipment profile that includes how much fresh water you'll top your wort/fermenter up with and it adjusts the amount of grain you'd have to mash to suit.

In other words you'd make a really high OG wort, and water it down to the desired OG in your fermenter. It sounds like you'd need nearly the same amount of water again though if your pre boil volume is 15l and your desired batch volume is 20 litres. I'm sure it could be done but I don't know what impact this would have on the finished beer.

colm89

Quote from: Matt DBrewer on January 29, 2021, 10:06:57 AMNo problem!

Ah, I understand now... your max kettle volume is 15 litres... yeah, you could try a reiterated mash to increase the starting gravity and then add boiling water to top up to 20l ... If you have no way of cooling quickly, google the 'no chill' or cube method... there's much less risk if contamination as the wort is in a sealed container... I wouldn't advise adding frozen water directly to your wort after boiling as it risks contamination ... a mash out step is where you increase the temperature of your mash at the end to above 76° which stops any more conversion so that your end beer has the body you were aiming for

I've had a few very successful "no chill" brews and loved how much time it saved on the brew day. I just added each hop addition 15 mins later in the boil as it'll be hotter for longer if not chilling conventionally. This has been fine for pilsners that have no hops later than 15 mins left on the boil so not sure how it would work with 10/5/1/flameout/hopstand additions. Maybe you could just add them all to the wort at flameout?

Matt DBrewer

I've no experience or indeed much knowledge of using no chill apart from the fact it exists... it's used a lot in Australia and other hot countries, so I would imagine there's ways to preserve hop aroma and flavour... I'd say there's plenty of information if you google it
"Passionate about craft beer and brewing"
❇️Connacht Homebrewers
❇️Midlands Beer Club (Ireland)
❇️National Homebrew Club Committee
📍Mayo, Ireland 😁🍻