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Yeast for Mead

Started by Dr Brown Ale, March 16, 2016, 01:42:43 PM

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Dr Brown Ale

hey lads,

what yeast do you recommend for Mead?

Bubbles

Lalvin 71B is very popular yeast for mead. As is D47.

However, if you're making a very dry, sparkling mead, a champagne yeast might be better. It's less fluffy and better for bottle conditioning (Just what I have read.. I've not yet done a sparkling mead, they're not easy to do by all accounts.)

Dr Brown Ale

Cool, thanks for that. I assume those yeasts are available from all the usual sources?

A friend of mine is looking to get into the Mead making, and he's asked me for some help as I have all the brewing equipment.

I'm going to go for an "easiest first" approach, so no sparkling for now.

Another question, if you don't mind.

Does temperature affect the outcome once you start racking/aging? I imagine the usual caveats apply for the fermentation and the effect of temperature on the yeast action, off flavours etc - but after that?

That's if I have my ideas correct, in that you ferment, then rack off the yeast a few times, then age.

Leann ull


Bubbles

Quote from: Beechlawn Brewing on March 16, 2016, 03:24:57 PM
Does temperature affect the outcome once you start racking/aging? I imagine the usual caveats apply for the fermentation and the effect of temperature on the yeast action, off flavours etc - but after that?

There's more experienced mead/wine makers on the forum than me that might give you a definitive answer on that., but if I had to hazard a guess.. I'd say the same rules of fermentation apply to extended conditioning - keep the mead at room temps. I can't imagine that subjecting it to elevated temperatures would do it any good. On the other hand, if you want to age this at cold temperatures might be better for flavour, but if the mead is not fully fermented out, it may never resume fermentation again.

So yeah.. usual caveats to apply.

High gravity meads, in my limited experience, are funny buggers. They can be racked, crystal clear with no signs from the airlock and all of a sudden can start bubbling again. Changes to pH can restart the yeast etc. For that reason, Bachus like to leave his meads for a full "season", to make sure they're fully fermented. (Bachus, shout if I'm talking absolute shite here.. :) )

Yenren

Hi this is a re post of some info I gave to another guy just starting out with a couple of edits.

Hi, heres a great article on current mead making techniques http://www.homebrewtalk.com/current-mead-making-techniques.html
The most important thing to take from it is SNA stagared nuitrent additions, providing the yeast with exactly what it needs when it needs it and the use of wyeast 1388 producing a very clean fermentation hence drinkable sooner.
Here is the website of the guy who wrote the article https://denardbrewing.com/ He is the inventor of BOMM. Brays one month mead. I have made a few of these and they are really drinkable in one month but the start coming into there own after 3 months and keep getting better not that any of mine have lasted more than 3 months :P
Here a few bits of info I learned along the way. He uses Wyeast 1388 I think you can get it at Get er Brewed. but you can substitute it with Danstar Abby Ale or CBC-1, I have used both or these and they work great.
For nutrients I used Tronozymol yeast nutrient and energizer, follow the instructions and divide the amount needed by the number of SNA staggered nutrient additions (Edit) I think maybe double the recommended amount then divide by number of SNA I was getting some sulpher coming through but added extra dose helped. Potassium carbonate is sold as acid reduction solution on the homebrewcompany page in the Ingredients/Additives/Steriliser section the tronozymol is there too.
If you are looking for raw honey at a good price try this guy http://www.adverts.ie/other-farming/raw-honey/8390372 sound fella, he will give you a discount on bulk

I hope some of this makes sense, if not im happy to answer any questions

mrbretmaye

I'm using EC1118 for my mead. But I like a bone dry drink. It is good for starting out in mead as it is a beast that will kill all in its way.

However I do not have much experience in other yeasts. I have done about 200L (a guess) in all and it is 90% 1118. Some others give better flavours etc. But 1118 is strong, reliable and gives few off flavours. It does need time to age as it eats flavours so you have to give a year to get the tastes of the brew back.

byronyasgur

October 08, 2017, 06:58:04 PM #7 Last Edit: October 08, 2017, 09:03:50 PM by byronyasgur
Quote from: Yenren on March 22, 2016, 12:30:05 AM
Potassium carbonate is sold as acid reduction solution on the homebrewcompany page in the Ingredients/Additives/Steriliser section

Thanks for your great advice

I found this interesting thread on gotmead ( calculating how much of that to use - with calculations by none other than loverose/Bray himself !! ) thought it would be good to post it here ( and so I know where to find it if I'm looking for it again  ;D )
http://www.gotmead.com/forum/showthread.php/24875-Liquid-potassium-carbonate-for-BOMM-dosage

and here's the link to the homebrew company product in case anybody's looking https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/acid-reducing-solution-57ml-p-1364.html