Hi Folks
I have just built a barebones brewpi. It was fairly straight forward, only a bit of soldering on the wemos di mini board and the software was very straight forward.
I installed thorrak's version of brewpi, found on homebrewtalk http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=586476.
The upto date instructions on the github page are excellent and there is also some youtube tutorials
https://github.com/thorrak/brewpi-esp8266
All connections to relays and temp probes are done on the wemos d1 mini board (esp8266) so you don't need to solder the gpio header pins onto the raspberry pi.
The rasperry pi just does the data logging and hosts the brewpi software. The d1 mini does the switching etc, if the pi fails the d1 mini keeps going.
You do need to solder the headers to the d1 mini board, this is the only tricky bit. The d1 mini can be powered from the raspberry pi using a usb cable.
For the hardware build you need :
1. Pi zero ( I recommend the new W as this has built in wifi and bluetooth) think it worked out at 15 euro delivered
2. An esp8266 module, i recommend the wemos d1 mini 3 dollars on Ali https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ESP12-ESP-12-WeMos-D1-mini-V2-Mini-NodeMcu-4M-bytes-Lua-WIFI-Internet-of-Things/32673300492.html
3. Temp probes about 10 euro for 5 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof-Temperature-Sensors-Transducer-Black/dp/B00WDPIWCI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1490384107&sr=8-6&keywords=DS18B20
4. 12C LCD (20x4) Screen, still waiting on this from China, I will update this thread when it arrives.
5. Sd card, this is the one I got for 6 euro http://cgi.ebay.ie/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=182210923621&view=all&tid=1624980199008
6. You need a mini usb cable to connect the d1 mini to the rasberry pi, something like this. http://www.ebay.ie/itm/New-Super-Short-Mini-USB-Cable-Adapter-USB-2-0-to-Mini-USB-/271402045726?hash=item3f30d2911e:g:gusAAOxy63FS~k0l
7. 4.7k resistor.
8. 2 channel 5v relay board
I would suggest you get some Dupont(saison :-X)) cables to connect to the pin headers on the d1 mini board, makes it hand and you wont have to solder.
I followed the instructions here to the letter, very detailed
https://github.com/thorrak/brewpi-esp8266/blob/master/docs/INSTALL.md
Here is what I did if you get stuck, but I would recommend just going through the github instructions. Mine is more of a step by step and the links i used
Downloaded Rasbian Jessie ( I prefer lite on the pi zero )
If using the pi zero w make sure and download the latest version of rasbian or your wifi adapter won't work.
https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/
Prepare your sd card
https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/windows.md
Before you remove the sd card setup the pi zero as an otg device. This means that a windows pc
will recognise the pi zero when you connect it to your pc's usb port and you will be able to connect to it using some software called putty.
Setup pi zero as usb otg
http://blog.gbaman.info/?p=791
Put the sd card into the pi zero ( note pi zero will not boot unless a supported sd card is inserted, transcend work good for me)
Connect the pi to a usb port on your pc
If the device is not recognised connect the power supply to the pi zero.
Once windows has detected and setup the device then you can connect to it using putty.
Download and install putty.
open putty and connect to the pi zero @ address raspberrypi.local on port 22
username pi
password raspberry
Next setup your wifi, you need to know the network and password
setup wifi
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruits-raspberry-pi-lesson-3-network-setup/setting-up-wifi-with-occidentalis
Next give your pi zero a static ip. This will allow you to connect to the pi over your wireless network.
setup static ip ( you need to know the ip address of your router )
https://www.modmypi.com/blog/how-to-give-your-raspberry-pi-a-static-ip-address-update
Reboot the pi sudo reboot
you will then be able to putty on using http: and the static address that you setup e.g. 192.168.1.201 or raspberrypi.local
Next setup the brewpi software.
First steps upgrade Rasbian
To do this putty on to the pi zero
run the following commands.
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get upgrade
sudo raspi-config ( launches the config console )
Goto advanced settings and expand the file system.
Reboot Pi
Putty back on to the raspberry pi
install git, this allows you to pull brewpi from github.
sudo apt-get install git
You are now at the step where you you can will install brewpi
Commands
git clone https://github.com/thorrak/brewpi-tools.
Execute sudo brewpi-tools/install.sh
Execute sudo brewpi-tools/install-esp8266.sh
Thats brew pi installed, next you need to flash the esp8266 board, so connect it to your raspberry pi using a suitable usb cable.
Once connected putty back onto the pi
sudo esptool.py --port /dev/ttyUSB0 write_flash -fm=dio -fs=32m 0x00000 /home/brewpi/esp8266/bin/brewpi-esp8266.v0.8.wifi.bin
At the time of writting this the firmware version is brewpi-esp8266.v0.8.wifi.bin, this can change so if the flash was not successful you need to see
what version of the wifi firmware is there.To do that type the following commands
cd /home/brewpi/esp8266/bin/
ls
This will give you a list, you are looking for the file ending in wifi.bin.
Its plain sailing after this. Please have a look at the github page step 4 onwards to setup the rest of the software.
After you are all setup on the software end you need to connect the relays and the temp probe.
The pin headers on the d1 mini board are
D0 - Heat
D1 - I2C SCL
D2 - I2C SDA
D3 - Buzzer (currently unsupported)
D4 - N/C
D5 - Cool
D6 - OneWire Data
D7 - Door (Untested)
The temp probes are one wire so you can have as many as you like connected together, they will each get a unique address in brewpi.
I attached a nice diagram from vitos brewpiless page. It is for a NodeMcu board not for the d1 but you will get a good handle of the layout and it shows you how to wire things up I can't link it as it is currently down.
Connect the dc+ on the relay board to the 5v pin on the d1 mini
Connect dc- to the ground pin on the d1 mini.
Connect channel 1 on the relay board to D5 (cool)
Connect channel 2 on the relay board to D0 (heat)
Temp probe
Data cable to d6 (yellow or white or green wire on temp probe depending no type you have)
Red cable to 3.3v on d1 mini
Black or grey cable needs to goto the ground pin on the d1 mini.
You need to splice the ground cable using a strip connector as the d1 mini as the board only has one ground pin.
You need to place a 4.7k resistor between the data and the 5v cables. Have a look at attached pics this will be a lot clearer
Reboot everything.
Logon to brewpi by typing in the static address you gave it into a browser.
Goto the maintenance panel, then to device configuration and click on the refresh device list. You should see your probes and the heat and cold relay switch channels.
Thats it
The first image below is a node mcu board. This image is for a brewpiless implementation.
Thorrak has another project called fermentrack that is based on brewpi and allows for multiple chamber support and will work with tilt and ispindle in the future.
Great piece work Darren very well presented. :)
Pi for dummies.
Cheers BB, If I can do it any one can. Only tricky bit is soldering the d1 mini.
I have an acetalyne torch should do the job i think. Do i need solder or brass rod :P
Great job Darren, I have a purge zero w on order. Didn't know what I was going to do with it but now I do 😁
Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk
Quote from: TonyC on March 25, 2017, 07:25:24 AM
Great job Darren, I have a purge zero w on order. Didn't know what I was going to do with it but now I do
I have spare resistors so don't order them, we can talk about it at the next meet.
Going to give fermentrack a go as well as this will control two chambers. Finished my bar and fermentation chamber build and am not happy with the stc1000 controlling the keg storage side of things.
Hi Darren,
Great article & thanks for putting it together. Had a couple of questions.
1. Where did you get the "2 channel 5v relay board"?
2. What ampage did you choose on the relays? I would assume something like 30Amps.
Shanna
I have an 8 channel board like that, they are only rated at 10a at mains voltage so fine for ferment control but not for large heating elements
Unreal Darren, good to see it up and running. Tempted by it.
Quote from: Shanna on March 25, 2017, 09:57:11 AM
Hi Darren,
Great article & thanks for putting it together. Had a couple of questions.
1. Where did you get the "2 channel 5v relay board"?
2. What ampage did you choose on the relays? I would assume something like 30Amps.
Shanna
They are rated at 10 amps, plenty for a fridge and I have a dimplex 60w tube heater running off it.
This one will do the job
5V 2-Channel Relay Module Shield for Arduino ARM PIC AVR DSP Electronic https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CRVYIMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-QK1yb1813EFG.
Quote from: darren996 on March 25, 2017, 10:50:37 AM
Quote from: Shanna on March 25, 2017, 09:57:11 AM
Hi Darren,
Great article & thanks for putting it together. Had a couple of questions.
1. Where did you get the "2 channel 5v relay board"?
2. What ampage did you choose on the relays? I would assume something like 30Amps.
Shanna
They are rated at 10 amps, plenty for a fridge and I have a dimplex 60w tube heater running off it.
This one will do the job
5V 2-Channel Relay Module Shield for Arduino ARM PIC AVR DSP Electronic https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CRVYIMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-QK1yb1813EFG.
Thanks nothing to stop one going for a higher ampage & then could use it to control heating elements as well.
Shanna
If you require multi chamber support check out fermentrack, it is brewpi based
https://thorrak.github.io/fermentrack/
Found a great guide by Thorrak for the hardware. Includes a 3d print for an enclosure
http://tinybat.ch/2016/11/brewpi-esp8266-enclosure/
Link for the 3d print.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1826360
Have you taken a look at the brewpiless project? Removes Raspberry Pi from the equation making it even cheaper and they're going to integrate the iSpindle into it.
Yep have done, I discarded it at the time as there were no graphs but Vito has all that working now and it looks great. You could be all in for about 20 euro I reckon, that's not bad at all.
What turned me off it is that it's a bit more complicated to setup with the arduino ide but I have a spare esp8266 so I plan to set it up for another chamber in my kegerator.
Thorraks guide was more complete and it is really easy to setup as you flash the esp8266 from the pi so that's why I went that route. Plus there is multi chamber support now.
The D1 mini boards are great and can power the LCD screen.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170406/22bf3db812fbb235e0fe0f661586613f.jpg)
I found a Brewpiless thread on this ages ago and got all the bits except dupont cables - ordering these now.
I can get Hello World and Blink working on this...
https://goo.gl/KnhWD7
While I have a Pi (its in the kids Kano) I thought it was possible to get an ESP8266 to do all the Pi Magic.
Hence BrewPiLess...
You'll be very happy with it John. They're great yoke for equivalent cost of an STC-1000.
Do you HAVE to use the Pi to get the ESP up and running?
I saw a lot of stuff on Linux, but I don't have a Tuxbox lying around right now.
Ideally trying to get up an running from arduino IDE on W10
No need for pi. I did way you plan to several months ago.
What's the trick to getting it across to the board?
I can pop across a simple sketch no problem, just can't figure how to get PiLess across as there is no 'main'.
Components are not all connected, but that should not matter to get the code across.
Don't bother building the sketch
Go to the GitHub page, download the software, unzip it and there should be a folder called bin. Locate the bin you want and use another program called nodemcu flasher to flash the bin file to the esp. Nodemcu is a windows program that will flash a bin to an esp that is connected to a pc with a usb cable. Think it flashes on com4
Easiest and cheapest way to get a brewpi up and running
https://github.com/vitotai/BrewPiLess
Thanks Darren, seems to work...
I have NodeMCU.
I select the active COM port and get baud right I click Flash - Seems to flash something.
In Config I pick out C:\Users\John\Documents\Arduino\BrewPiLess\bins\BrewPiLess.v2.3.3.bin
Flash that and done?
I have all components except the Dupont cables so can't test but want to puzzle flashing.
I'm amazed that there aren't more howtos online to compile and transfer the code.
That's it John.
Search your WiFi connections on the pc and you should see the brewpiless . Connect to it then you will be able to access the config console in your browser
I'll give the BrewPiless a go again.
I pushed the iSpindel .bin to D1 board. I can connect to its AP and configure it.
I had a snoop at ubidots too.
Very clever stuff.
I might throw a how-to together and post it here.
Thanks for the assist lads, appreciated.
Wondering about the practicality/possibility of bolting on pH recording.
http://www.instructables.com/id/ORP-pH-Temperature-Data-Logger/
The fermentation might leave residue on the pH probe that would give incorrect readings?
I was thinking that too.
The project above is for a water application so pH should be relatively consistent.
Heres a probe designed for constant use...
http://hannainst.com/hi1001-ph-electrode-for-continuous-flow-thru-monitoring.html
Quote from: darren996 on April 06, 2017, 12:50:12 PM
Yep have done, I discarded it at the time as there were no graphs but Vito has all that working now and it looks great. You could be all in for about 20 euro I reckon, that's not bad at all.
What turned me off it is that it's a bit more complicated to setup with the arduino ide but I have a spare esp8266 so I plan to set it up for another chamber in my kegerator.
Thorraks guide was more complete and it is really easy to setup as you flash the esp8266 from the pi so that's why I went that route. Plus there is multi chamber support now.
The D1 mini boards are great and can power the LCD screen.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170406/22bf3db812fbb235e0fe0f661586613f.jpg)
Darren any chance you could help me out with work the Esp8266 & the relay. Really struggling to make sense of the wiring from the pictures. If you have a link to a clear diagram please post it. I have the one wire relays already wired but need a bit of help to figure out the relay, raspberry pi & esp8266 wiring. Any pointers/help would be appreciated. I have DuPont connectors & a bread board also.
Shanna
Quote from: Shanna on October 22, 2017, 06:00:32 PM
Quote from: darren996 on April 06, 2017, 12:50:12 PM
Yep have done, I discarded it at the time as there were no graphs but Vito has all that working now and it looks great. You could be all in for about 20 euro I reckon, that's not bad at all.
What turned me off it is that it's a bit more complicated to setup with the arduino ide but I have a spare esp8266 so I plan to set it up for another chamber in my kegerator.
Thorraks guide was more complete and it is really easy to setup as you flash the esp8266 from the pi so that's why I went that route. Plus there is multi chamber support now.
The D1 mini boards are great and can power the LCD screen.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170406/22bf3db812fbb235e0fe0f661586613f.jpg)
Darren any chance you could help me out with work the Esp8266 & the relay. Really struggling to make sense of the wiring from the pictures. If you have a link to a clear diagram please post it. I have the one wire relays already wired but need a bit of help to figure out the relay, raspberry pi & esp8266 wiring. Any pointers/help would be appreciated. I have DuPont connectors & a bread board also.
Shanna
Sure Shanna, what's the exact issue? What implementation are you doing
I just finished a brewpiless box
Here are a few pics
Top left is a mains to 5v converter, this powers the wemos d1 mini
Top right is the d1 mini on a breadboard
Bottom is the relay I am using
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171022/62ca6e8d2d635036b72ac3312fd4781f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171022/62a84a9cf3230984a4108446f87c89cf.jpg)
Spot the wiring mistake? Second relay, dark brown cable should be in the middle terminal on the relay.
pi zero, esp8266 & 10amp relay.with two sockets running off it. I have two one wire temp probes also. I see your not using any pi at all. Will spend a bit if time to try & figure out the wiring.
Shanna
Actually just read your original explanation again after looking at the numbering on the D1 & the relay & things are much clearer. I will give it a try once I get a hold of a soldering iron.
Thanks for posting the pics.
Shanna
Darren could I impose on you to take some photos of the electrical wiring for the power & the relays as its the only part not clear. There are loads of wires in the last photo & it's not clear what is going where?
Shanna
No problem, I will get a few pics tomorrow and throw them up
I switched to brewpiless, no need for a zero, very easy.
What brewpi implementation are you using?
Quote from: darren996 on October 22, 2017, 11:06:07 PM
No problem, I will get a few pics tomorrow and throw them up
I switched to brewpiless, no need for a zero, very easy.
What brewpi implementation are you using?
Same one you posted in the original thread. Wondering how far the Wi-Fi on the D1 will work.Thanks by the way.
Shanna
Will put it together tonight. You will be able to power the d1 from the pi.
Would u consider brewpiless, no zero required and easy to set up. I have swapped all mine over
Wemos doesn't have greatest range
I bought all the bits (WemosD1R2, ESP8266), but forgot Dupont leads.
These are on the way from China.
Upload and cabling seems easy enough - I did a quick bench test and could get into the Web interface.
The issue I have is that I cannot get temp from the one-wire probes.
Temps show either 0 or blank (can't remember)
I'll sit on this until the leads arrive and report back.
Quote from: johnrm on October 23, 2017, 09:58:50 AM
I bought all the bits (WemosD1R2, ESP8266), but forgot Dupont leads.
These are on the way from China.
Upload and cabling seems easy enough - I did a quick bench test and could get into the Web interface.
The issue I have is that I cannot get temp from the one-wire probes.
Temps show either 0 or blank (can't remember)
I'll sit on this until the leads arrive and report back.
Could be bad connections.
Are you using a 4.7k resister across the data and 3.3 v cable. I use a terminal block and solder the resistor to the live and data cables, this gives a really good connection
D6 data, and 3.3 v to temp probes
When you go to setup hardware then the temp probes should be connected
Yep, using 4.7k, might be on 5v though.
Is this a pull-up resistor? (Came across this with another project about a year ago)
Once the postman arrives I will get back into this.
DuPont cables make it all a lot easier
Quote from: johnrm on October 23, 2017, 09:58:50 AM
I bought all the bits (WemosD1R2, ESP8266), but forgot Dupont leads.
These are on the way from China.
Upload and cabling seems easy enough - I did a quick bench test and could get into the Web interface.
The issue I have is that I cannot get temp from the one-wire probes.
Temps show either 0 or blank (can't remember)
I'll sit on this until the leads arrive and report back.
I had the horrors originally getting those one wires probes to work originally. You have to be careful about wiring them as if you mis wire them they heat up & burn out in a few seconds.
Check this link out
https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/37157/ds18b20-no-longer-working
If your still having trouble it could be the software module. Let me know if you need help & I will try & help. Also please post a picture of your wiring please?
Shanna
The original post is for thorraks brewpi
If following the original post get the latest update from thorrak.
Always follow the instructions on Github, this is the most up to date.
I followed the instructions here to the letter, very detailed
https://github.com/thorrak/brewpi-esp8266/blob/master/docs/INSTALL.md
If using thorraks brewpi the pin headers on the d1 mini board are
D0 - Heat
D1 - I2C SCL
D2 - I2C SDA
D3 - Buzzer (currently unsupported)
D4 - N/C
D5 - Cool
D6 - OneWire Data
D7 - Door (Untested)
The d1 mini also has a 3.3, 5v and ground pins.
First thing I do is setup the d1 on a breadboard and split out the
ground and and live wires to the side terminals. This allows you to
use multiple 3.3, ground and 5V terminals.
To make things easy on yourself invest in a bread board and male male, female male dupont cables.
If not you have to junction off the 3.3v and ground cables as the d1 only has one of each.
If you want to setup BREWPILESS ( easier and less hardware ).
Wemos d1 mini
breadboard
dupont cables
temp probes
12c led screen (optional )
Software required.
Vitos brewpiless archive file on github
7-zip or someother software to unzip archive
Nodemcu flasher
Goto github and download unzip
https://github.com/vitotai/BrewPiLess
Unzip the file to a folder.
download nodemcu flasher and unzip
https://github.com/nodemcu/nodemcu-flasher
CONNECT THE D1 TO YOUR COMPUTER
Flash the software (oh behave)
Goto the nodemcu folder.
There will be two folders here Win32 or Win64, depending on your operating system select the correct folder,
in my case win64, open the release folder and execute ESP8266Flasher
Goto the config tab, you will see a table of entries
The first entry is INTERNAL://NODEMCU and it is ticked, untick this
goto the second row and select the bin you want to flash this is located in the folder you unzipped brewpiless.
There is a folder called bins, select the latest version, i selected BrewPiLess.v2.3.bin
in the offset colum select 0x00000 and tick the row as selected in the left column of the table
Select Operation tab on nodemcuflasher and hit the flash button and wait for the process to end
Reboot the d1.
Setup wifi on d1
https://github.com/vitotai/BrewPiLess#wifi-setting
Once the wifi is setup you will no longer see brewpiless on the network.
you can access brewpiless using http://brewpi.local or if you assigned an ip address access it that way
Setup hardware
Here are the pins for brewpiless
D0 Buzzer
D1 12C SCL
D2 I2C SDA
D3 INT from PCF8574 * Or Wakeup Button
D4 Door (not used)
D5 Cooling Actuator*
D6 Temperature Sensors
D7 Heating Actuator*
Some pics of the wiring I did, if you burn your house down or kill yourself I am not responsible, follow these instructions at your own risk.
First image is the wiring block. (wireblock.jpg)
I have one mains input, i use a strip to split the mains input to 3 outputs.
!. the mains to 5v converter
2. the fridge
3 the heater
1 live in and 3 live outs
1 Neutral in and 3 neutral out
1 earth in 3 3 earth out
Second is a clearer image of the wire splitting.
Third image is how I like to put the temp probes together. I use dupont cables
The github page for brewpiless if very extensive and should answer all questions.
If you need anything else just reply
Hi Darren,
That is super useful, I am interested in using the brewpiless approach. Not to be taking the piss but if you had links to the mains to 5V converter and also the usb type c that is powered by the 5V converter would be appreciated.
The wiring pictures really clear up a lot of questions but of course prompt some more if you will humour me please?
I am not sure I understand the Brewpiless pin assignment. How are the GPIO references below relevant?
GPIO16 D0 Buzzer
GPIO5 D1 I2C SCL
GPIO4 D2 I2C SDA
GPIO0 D3 INT from PCF8574 * Or Wakeup Button
GPIO2 D4 Door (not used)
GPIO14 D5 Cooling Actuator*
GPIO12 D6 Temperature Sensors
GPIO13 D7 Heating Actuator*
GPIO15 D8
Shanna
Quote from: Shanna on October 25, 2017, 10:31:36 PM
Hi Darren,
That is super useful, I am interested in using the brewpiless approach. Not to be taking the piss but if you had links to the mains to 5V converter and also the usb type c that is powered by the 5V converter would be appreciated.
The wiring pictures really clear up a lot of questions but of course prompt some more if you will humour me please?
I am not sure I understand the Brewpiless pin assignment. How are the GPIO references below relevant?
GPIO16 D0 Buzzer
GPIO5 D1 I2C SCL
GPIO4 D2 I2C SDA
GPIO0 D3 INT from PCF8574 * Or Wakeup Button
GPIO2 D4 Door (not used)
GPIO14 D5 Cooling Actuator*
GPIO12 D6 Temperature Sensors
GPIO13 D7 Heating Actuator*
GPIO15 D8
Shanna
Ignore the gpio reference. The above is lifted off the brewpiless site. When you download the archive there is a thorraks.bin file, this is fire pi and d1 mini configuration.
So if using brewpiless just use the d1 mini pinout I.e d1 d5 d6 etc. I will edit the other post
I will pull out the links for all the items I purchased for the build and post them tomorrow.
The power for the d1 mini is just a micro usb cable that I stripped myself, most homes would have these as spares in a drawer somewhere
Part list
Power Supply
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5V-2A-Precision-Isolation-Bare-Plate-Switching-Power-Module-Supply-Regulator-10W/32778867429.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.fzkf6j
LCD screens
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-1pcs-lot-LCD-Board-2004-20-4-LCD-20X4-5V-Blue-screen-blacklight-LCD2004/1893875464.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.fzkf6j
Some DuPont cables
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dupont-line-120pcs-10cm-male-to-male-male-to-female-and-female-to-female-jumper-wire/32409067044.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.65.1XhaiQ&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_5430020_5410020_10304_10307_10137_10060_10302_10155_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_100031_10099_5400020_10103_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_5380020_10171_5390020_10084_10083_5370020_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_5420020_10112_10113_10114_10312_10313_10314_10315_10078_10079_10073,searchweb201603_5,ppcSwitch_2&btsid=2eb88a5d-527a-4f60-ac5a-07a656839e37&algo_expid=8c029e76-9fd8-45b4-9d84-7c1b45738ac0-11&algo_pvid=8c029e76-9fd8-45b4-9d84-7c1b45738ac0
Breadboards
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-IC-new-original-AT89C2051-24PU-AT89C2051-89C2051-ATMEL-DIP10-Free-Shipping/32765214054.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.9.5NMhIM&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_5430020_10304_10307_10137_10060_10302_10155_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_100031_10099_5400020_10103_10102_5410015_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_5380020_10171_5390020_10084_10083_5370020_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_5420020_10112_10113_10114_10312_10313_10314_10315_10078_10079_10073-10050,searchweb201603_5,ppcSwitch_2&btsid=83feeda3-6ce4-4a7f-958b-859d1fd91b09&algo_expid=d4449b8a-2f8e-4987-9e85-a0b5b7c062c8-4&algo_pvid=d4449b8a-2f8e-4987-9e85-a0b5b7c062c8
Project boxes
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-Plastic-Waterproof-Box-IP66-Plastic-Box-Electronic-Case-Custom-Project-Boxes-158-90-60-mm/32807510777.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.171.qCvfRA&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_5430020_5410020_10304_10307_10137_10060_10302_10155_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_100031_10099_5400020_10103_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_5380020_10171_5390020_10084_10083_5370020_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_5420020_10112_10113_10114_10312_10313_10314_10315_10078_10079_10073-10102,searchweb201603_5,ppcSwitch_2&btsid=0b98edd5-b6f3-46b1-99e3-ed4112b0813f&algo_expid=e40c376c-8076-4c56-b2e0-b83b719db29e-25&algo_pvid=e40c376c-8076-4c56-b2e0-b83b719db29e
Relay
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/5V-2-Channel-Relay-Module-Relay-Expansion-Board-With-OPTO-Protection-for-Arduino/301461789238?hash=item463085da36:g:zBYAAOSwkNZUn9gf
Temp Probe DS18B20
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/New-DS18B20-1-15M-Waterproof-Temperature-Temp-Sensor-Thermal-Probe-Thermometer/382086322179?hash=item58f61e9803:m:mT2Y_VuSya9V99aeALjfx1A
Cable glands, mains power in cable, and sockets for cold and heat sources.
Thanks that is great.
Shanna
Thanks for all the groundwork Darren, I set one up over the last few days, to replace the RaspberryPi & Arduino one that kept on dropping off the flaky WiFi repeater in the shed (Arduino was rock solid, RaspPI not so >:().
Surprisingly easy to setup when loaded onto the D1 Mini board - way quicker than the original BrewPi using the RaspPi & Arduino method.
Really great, now have to find a 3D printed 20x4 LCD Display bezel/surround (bit like the ArdBir one) to cover my shaky Dremel cutting of the box lid ;)
Then, got completely distracted by the Brewmaniac (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=586484), a D1 Mini version of the ArdBir (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDVYDUay660) - built on the original, just now has WiFi control - a bit like the Grainfather Controller - must step away from the keyboard ... it's not a straight swop, needs a few chips, although they have been working on a very similar board to the pre-made ArdBir one; a project for the next couple of months.
Quote from: pob on November 07, 2017, 07:10:10 PM
Thanks for all the groundwork Darren, I set one up over the last few days, to replace the RaspberryPi & Arduino one that kept on dropping off the flaky WiFi repeater in the shed (Arduino was rock solid, RaspPI not so >:().
Surprisingly easy to setup when loaded onto the D1 Mini board - way quicker than the original BrewPi using the RaspPi & Arduino method.
Really great, now have to find a 3D printed 20x4 LCD Display bezel/surround (bit like the ArdBir one) to cover my shaky Dremel cutting of the box lid ;)
Then, got completely distracted by the Brewmaniac (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=586484), a D1 Mini version of the ArdBir (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDVYDUay660) - built on the original, just now has WiFi control - a bit like the Grainfather Controller - must step away from the keyboard ... it's not a straight swop, needs a few chips, although they have been working on a very similar board to the pre-made ArdBir one; a project for the next couple of months.
Expect loads of questions from yours truly when I get around to working on this again :)
Shanna
Catch you on Sat
Built my diy brewpi a few years back, but was never happy with it, kept crashing and losing WiFi. So going to try this out. It'll make a much neater solution to what I currently have
Finally got it working.
Back in the drawer for a bit!
Has anyone tied in their Ispindel?
Quote from: pob on November 08, 2017, 11:30:09 AM
Catch you on Sat
POB if you would post that set of links that we discussed last week would be great.
Shanna
BrewPiLess
D1 Mini shield -
http://s.aliexpress.com/zYNZnYBz
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171112/999c1cc778dcc021a5511c0f8be4e4c2.jpg)
Use these Terminal block (allows you to share 5V & GND) - http://s.aliexpress.com/J7BzMbAz
On right hand side , both facing to the right to make it easier wire up.
20x4 LCD I2C - http://s.aliexpress.com/faiInIBJ
Thanks Peter,
Shanna
Lads how doable would this be for someone whose entire electronics knowledge stopped at leaving cert physics but has a can do attitude?
Just go for it.
A couple of lads have it built so will help you out.
Just order the parts now, and read up on everything so you have an idea when the parts finally arrive. My 5v relays finally arrived today after ordering in November.
Main thing; don't switch mains power side on until you've got someone to check the wiring (post on here if need be). You can test & setup the controller & relays without having live power to hot/cold plug/sockets.
Keep safe, electricity is nasty if done wrong.
Yeah electricity scares me a lot more than plumbing. I have ordered parts from AliExpress so they're coming in in drips and drabs. I haven't been able to find a clear sort of how to guide but I must read fully through this thread again.
Ordering through Ali Express means I probably have plenty of time before most parts arrive
I just messaged you on Whatsapp
Hi there,
If anybody has a wiring diagram showing the temp probe, wimos, relay and LCD screen wiring would they please post it. I have the Wimos and LCD sorted but am unsure about the wiring for the wimos, temp probes and the relays.
Shanna
Quote from: Shanna on February 16, 2018, 04:39:07 PM
Hi there,
If anybody has a wiring diagram showing the temp probe, wimos, relay and LCD screen wiring would they please post it. I have the Wimos and LCD sorted but am unsure about the wiring for the wimos, temp probes and the relays.
Shanna
I used this when I was putting mine together. Should help. http://vito.tw/?p=460 (http://vito.tw/?p=460)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/b59b66103899019cddb47d418464a60c.jpg)
Lads all the diagrams wiring etc are on The brewpiless GitHub page. This is the most up to date and complete guide with the latest diagrams etc.
If you can't follow the instructions in this thread ( think I was fairly clear and complete) and from the brewpiless github page I would suggest that you give this project a miss as you will be playing with mains voltage
Quote from: darren996 on February 17, 2018, 11:49:33 AM
Lads all the diagrams wiring etc are on The brewpiless GitHub page. This is the most up to date and complete guide with the latest diagrams etc.
If you can't follow the instructions in this thread ( think I was fairly clear and complete) and from the brewpiless github page I would suggest that you give this project a miss as you will be playing with mains voltage
I read through it and it looked doable. I was just wondering of it actually was to someone without a ton of experience before I bought the parts. Thanks for the guide though looking forward to getting into it
If I did it anyone can :), just read everything and be 100 percent sure you understand how it all goes together before you mess with mains power.
Yeah plugging into mains looks to be the extreme last step
Quote from: Phil.cork on February 17, 2018, 11:59:42 AM
Quote from: darren996 on February 17, 2018, 11:49:33 AM
Lads all the diagrams wiring etc are on The brewpiless GitHub page. This is the most up to date and complete guide with the latest diagrams etc.
If you can't follow the instructions in this thread ( think I was fairly clear and complete) and from the brewpiless github page I would suggest that you give this project a miss as you will be playing with mains voltage
I read through it and it looked doable. I was just wondering of it actually was to someone without a ton of experience before I bought the parts. Thanks for the guide though looking forward to getting into it
Somehow I.missed the wiring diagram so i apreciate iMark posting an up to date link as i do the efforts of others who contributed to this thread.
Shanna
Did anyone here get this to work properly with an ispindel?
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but mostly sorted now. Bpl working really well and ispindel working well with it. 1 last thing has anyone here managed to get it to log data to Ubidots? I can get it to connect and generate a device but doesn't seem to be exporting any of the variables. I'm sure this is my own lack of knowledge but can't figure it out
I got the iSpindel to communicate with Ubidots when I was playing with it last.
As I recall you need to set up an account with Ubidots, you then need to get a key which is keyed in to the interface on iSpindel.
Once in place it should send data to ubidots.
I got the ispindel to link with ubidots fine but now have it reporting directly to the BPL so its all integrated. I think it would be cool to have a cloud log of the brew and BPL does allow it. It should directly post to ubidots again you input the token from Ubidots to the URL on the logging page. I can get it to communicate with ubidots but can't get it to export the variables (beer temp, gravity, tilt time etc). I'm sure it my lack of programming knowledge thats making it not work
I didn't think the BPL was meant to communicate to ubidots.
That is something the iSpindel does.
This is the page on the wiki which explains how to connect to ubidots. The top arrow points to the setup for thingspeak.com the bottom one is for ubidots. However for thingspeak you specify in the url which fields and variables you want to export (ie %b for beer temp) in the ubidots example it looks like the variables have been selected some other way as they are visible above the format box with I think the contents of the format box translating for ubidots. I can't get it to select which variables I want to export though
This magically started working for me. Now I can obsess about my brew while at work. hooray
I've my brewpiless setup to thingspeak logging and also set alarms to sms me if it gets too hot or too cold. I plan to look for sms if its not logging also.
I don't use ispindel but should be easy to get it to message you when you hit certain SG or other SG based events.
It's a great bit of gear.