National Homebrew Club Ireland

So, I'm going to bite the bullet and put together a version of electric brewery, but with tweaks to make it more modular and upgrade-able as my demands from the kit increase. I don't want to do this as a single build, but more as a set of upgrades over time, that all add to to the final system. You can follow along here and see all the silly things I do, to your hearts content ;)

Goals:
* < €1000 for the initial manual build.
* BrewPi Spark systems for the PID, so I don't end up with a massive control board and wires all over the place.
* Run on domestic power supply, with 2.5kW low density elements. The BK can be upgraded to 5kW when power is upgraded. At that point, the HLT will get the old 2.5kW element.
* Keggle based.
* Iterative build. Each part will be merged into my existing setup and used as a manual HERMS, so there's no waiting around to play with the toys.

So far, the first part of the parts are ordered, mostly from the brewPi site, as they have a lot of what is needed:
* Camlock Fittings
* Heating element enclosure for Camco element.
* 2.5kW Camco low density element
* SS Herms coil, plus all associated fittings from brewPi
* Brewpi temperature probes that can be inserted inline

I'll take a pic when everything arrives. I expect this to take a while :D

Costs so far:
Fittings for BK, herms for HLT, whirlpool arm, hauxexe for hop filtering, pumps and quick disconnect plumping: €540
2.5kW Element: €70
BK Keg: €20
Sight glass for BK and HLT: €50

Waiting on the group buy for pumps, but that will be about another €300, which brings the total up-to ~€1k

Hopefully in 1-2 months, I'll have:
- Keggle BK
- Modified Plastic HLT, with all the final SS parts installed
- Modified Cooler Mash Tun, with all the final SS installed
- Manual Herms, with all temp probes installed and logging data until brewPi is ready to start control.
- Cleaning will still involve moving everything around.

Final Build:
- Motorised values, controlled by Brewpi. This is the largest expense, as all the existing manual values will need to be replaced. Hoping to sell these on so there is no loss here.
- In situ keggles for Mash Tun and HLT
- WetVac for cleaning the damn thing.
- Static hosing, fitted above and below keggles, to allow to gravity draining and in situ cleaning.
- Most likely will need to build a final stand for all the kit once it's a static rig.

For an idea of the normal usage, check out elco's post:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=490798

Pdf with all the control states:
https://github.com/BrewPi/herms-layout/blob/master/pdf/BrewPi-HERMS-drawing.pdf?raw=true

VERY excited about this build.


Should be a sneak peak into the next generation of brewing systems.



Adam

Order put through for the parts in 1/2" BSP. This will cover all the plumbing that will be needed for all 3 keggles, except the MT filter (reusing existing part) and a second element enclosure for the HLT (to be bought in the future when power upgraded).

2x THREADED ONEWIRE TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2x 1/2" BSP TEE (3X FEMALE)
2x 1/2" BSP HEX NIPPLE
7x 2-PIECE FULL BORE BALL VALVE WITH LOCKING HANDLE
4x 1/2" BSP FEMALE (TYPE A) CAMLOCK FITTING
8x 1/2" BSP MALE TYPE F CAMLOCK FITTING
2x WELDLESS KETTLE INLET KIT (BARBED)   
1x WELDLESS LOW PROFILE DIP TUBE KIT
1x WELDLESS WHIRLPOOL KETTLE INLET KIT
4x BARB (TYPE C) CAMLOCK FITTING - HIGH FLOW
4x (FDA GRADE, 11MM ID X 18MM OD) PER METER
8x HOSE CLAMP (12-22 MM)
1x HEATING ELEMENT ENCLOSURE KIT
1x BREWPI/MATMILL LAUTERHEXE KIT
1x WELDLESS HERMS COIL KIT

Total: €550

Still need to get the pumps and upgrade an existing immersion chiller to counterflow with appropriate fittings. Also will need to make two more camlock hoses when two pumps are being used. Also will pick up insulation for the keggles for effeciency. Since I'm planning to use a counterflow chiller, all 3 keggles will be fully insulated.

One potential issue will be getting the HERMS coil into a keggle. It's 30cm diameter and I think that's around the same size as the hole I'll be making. It should be 38cm ID, but we'll see ;)

The brewpi stuff looks great. I'd love an upgrade but if I get any more stuff I may be divorced .

I'm thinking of going down the counter flow chiller as a HERMS rout.
A 20 plate chiller from aliexpress is about €50 delivered. Run mash through it with hlt in opposite direction and hey presto HERMS.
Also can be used as a chiller I suppose.

No reason why not. I currently use my immersion chilled as a herms and it's working brilliantly. I just pop it into the sparge water and run the wort through, then pass the sparge water through after to clean it.

Main reason for the build is to get rid of all my wibbly wobbly plastic boilers. Adding herms is only costing me an extra 100 for the coil.

Dint worry, once I start posting pics of all that shiny stainless steel, I'm sure you'll start getting tempted... ;)

I'm already tempted.
If be the same. I want to get a solid build. I have had little to no problems with my current setup but..... Monkey see monkey want.

The parts have arrived. :D Think I'll build a plastic boil kettle this weekend to test it all out. The camlocks are brilliant!

So much shiny... Love it.

Measure twice...  ;)

Why you think I'm testing everything on a plastic bucket first!

Major jealousy. Looks great.

For starters, I'd get rid of the gremlin!

You don't want him getting involved 😜

What size is the sheet metal punches :)

Quote from: DEMPSEY on July 13, 2015, 10:22:37 PM
What size is the sheet metal punches :)

13/16" for all the 1/2 BSP fittings, 1 1/4" for the camco element.

The element enclosure is excellent. A perfect fit and it's earthed with a cable gland.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/6b1f16fa222b4fabee70b15b898a3ab3.jpg)

Quote from: molc on July 13, 2015, 11:08:52 PM

Quote from: DEMPSEY on July 13, 2015, 10:22:37 PM
What size is the sheet metal punches :)

13/16" for all the 1/2 BSP fittings, 1 1/4" for the camco element.

The element enclosure is excellent. A perfect fit and it's earthed with a cable gland.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/6b1f16fa222b4fabee70b15b898a3ab3.jpg)

Where'd you get the element guard / enclosure?  VERY shiny!

BrewPi Spark Photon comes out any day now.... https://store.brewpi.com/brewpi-spark/brewpi-spark-bundle 

Quote from: biertourist on July 14, 2015, 06:28:32 PM
BrewPi Spark Photon comes out any day now.... https://store.brewpi.com/brewpi-spark/brewpi-spark-bundle

Drool

Quote from: biertourist on July 14, 2015, 06:21:25 PM

Quote from: molc link=topic=10108.msg125058#msg125058

Where'd you get the element guard / enclosure?  VERY shiny!

Brewpi, under the mashing part of the shop. He shows it in his overview video as well. After the safety video at the brew on, I wanted to make sure everything was enclosed and earthed.

Quote from: biertourist on July 14, 2015, 06:28:32 PM
BrewPi Spark Photon comes out any day now.... https://store.brewpi.com/brewpi-spark/brewpi-spark-bundle

Yup I have the first version with the older spark and it's working well. The software is a few months away, but I still use it for mashing by just using the graph as a live view and keeping a separate log for the brew process.

How does the enclose attach to the kettle? Maybe a stupid question but I just can't see it.

Quote from: armedcor on July 14, 2015, 09:19:24 PM
How does the enclose attach to the kettle? Maybe a stupid question but I just can't see it.

Voila. Fully assembled. Just push it through the hole and tighten the retaining nut on the bottom of the enclosure.

Got it! Very smart construction!

Hlt build done in the old plastic boil kettle. Mostly painless, though I still need to do a wet test. Also cocked up the return arm and put it too close to the top herms input, so I had to turn the tap by 90 Degrees.
The herms is tight but should be perfect in a keg.
The hole punch makes it all very easy and the parts are excellent to fit.

Sweet jeeeesus! I would be happy with that as a hlt job done! haha

Looks sweet definitely worth giving that a trial, only problem with hole punch is can't use on kegs :(

Quote from: Ciderhead on July 16, 2015, 11:00:04 PM
Looks sweet definitely worth giving that a trial, only problem with hole punch is can't use on kegs :(

I've punched 6 holes with my q max punches on kegs. No problem at all.

Most stainless kegs are 1.8mm and I believe conditioned steel also slightly thicker towards the bottom, qmax cutters normally only rated to do up to 1.6 on mild steel.
There are a few metal nuts around here I'd like to hear their comments?

Yea i've read that before but I've done two kegs now no problem at all. The punches could definitely handle a few more. Good few lads over on jimsbeerkit who've used the Qmax on their keggles.

Yep I saw the guys on Jims alright, I have a couple myself but didn't want to wreck them on my early keggles.

Fair enough! They're definitely G2G though! The holes I've made for bulkheads etc were no problem, the bigger size for my elements were pretty tough though.

I'm planning to use the qmax cutter in the kegs as well. Sure if it doesn't work I can try something else and at the least all the bits will be fitted to plastic buckets before that anyway, so the kit will be usable. Planning on doing the boil kettle tomorrow and then rigging it all up for a wet test over the weekend.

Let us know how you get on!

Boil kettle is mostly complete. Just need to get some proper wiring for the element and I can finish mounting that tomorrow. The rest of the fittings are in place. The filter is too big for the bucket but should be just right in the final keg.
This time, some in progress pics to show the hole making :)

Did the mash tun today and also the wet test.  Also made all the piping for the pumps but I can't fit them onto the old solar without doing a Hodge of a thinner pipe into a thicker. It works but I'll need to get more camlock fittings soon to replace these soon.
Marked off the liquid levels on the hlt and boil kettle. Everything was flying until I switched on the element and after a minute it tripped the circuit. Checked the fitting and sure enough, a drop of water was coming out through the cable gland. Never a good sign. Really happy everything was earthed!

Anyway spent the next hour tightening the fitting (nicked it a bit with the vice grips but nothing magor since its in the hot side) until I realised the leak was water working its way through the threading of the element. Some ptfe tape later and the boil test is running.

The other thing is if I fill over the whirlpool arm, the water flows out as of course it's under the level. In the final build, I'll put valves in all outputs as its a real pain when it leaks when you don't expect it. Also my solar pump is pathetic at driving a whirlpool, it's more like a lazy spin.

Last thing to note is all the fitting are shedding little flakes of stainless steel, so everything will need a good clean before used for a real batch.

So into the pics!

Use the fernox lsx for your threads it's wras approved
Yep solar is not going to cut it :(
How long do element take to get up to temp?

Cool will pick up fernox for the final build. Its still heating, about 80C after 50 mins.
It's a 2.5kw element. The hlt has 2 2kw elements which I can run at the same time on one 20A circuit and the BK can run on another one from the other room. If I want to push it, thinking of heating the strike water in the BK, the sparge in the hlt, so I can go straight to herms after mash in.
All this will get a full test on a simple batch of cal common in about 2 weeks :)

Damn man looks awesome!

Is the plan for a couple of those elements?
Wrap duck tape a few times around your fitting it will allow you tighten without damaging with the vice grips or a pipe grips

Nice tip with the duck tape. Obvious when you think about it.

So water us finally boiling. 1 hour 25 minutes from 15 to 100C, so it isn't fast, though on brew day, I'll just need to get from 70 to 100.
Planning on just the one element in each vessel, but going to get 5.5kW elements once I upgrade the power in the house.
The brew room actually has a cooker I could disconnect and the use the 30A circuit, so that might be what I end up doing if the boil takes too long on a brew day.

Colm, Where did you get the coiled hop blocker from?

I think the grainfather could use one!

Brewpi sell them. It's called a hauterhexe and it's made by a German company. Note you want to shorten it usually so it's just a single coil around the edge, as the turns open the coil and will probably leave hops through. The one I got is sized for a keg. Shortening is not a big deal though. Just pick your length, cut and rescrew into the fitting.

So the first brew with the new kit was yesterday. All in all it took 6 hours start to finish so nothing disasterous happened.
Running all 3 elements at the same time isn't a great idea as I tripped the power. The hlt will get a single 2.8kw element and Ill just wait in future.
To start, I put 20L in the BK and HLT, with the BK going to the mash tun and the hot for the herms and sparge.
At this point I overshot my target 66 mash, as I forgot to account for the lag in temp change with a probe at the bottom. Started watching another probe at the end of the herms the and was dialled in after 15 mins.
To bring the temp down there was some furious stirring which led to the next issue, a 10% effeciency increase! Had to take out 4L and dillute with 3L to get my target og pre boil.
While sparging, I ran the element in the BK, which is just the business. Was almost at boil temp by the time the sparge was complete.
After that it was all plain sailing. My slow whirlpool did feck all and I couldn't seem to drain using the tap, so just used my auto siphon. The hauterhexe was nicely cracked in hop material though, so it seemed to do its job.

Next step is to build the brew table once the chugged pumps arrive. The keg in the back is marking the position for this table. This means no more hot liquid moving which will rock.
Also the hlt fitting should be on the left side for connecting everything up. Having the build in plastic like this is great for figuring out changes like this.

Impressive work so far! Is that whirlpool arm also from brewpi? Any idea yet what you're dead space will be with the hauterhex in the keggle?

Yeah whirlpool is brewpi. They just got in pumps, elements and motorised valves too, so they really have everything you need now.

No idea on the dead space. Once I get the lids cut out of them, I'll be popping the hauter into Tue base of one and doing a water test to see. I'm guessing about 2L, which is my hop loss rate already.

Quote from: molc on August 01, 2015, 01:52:39 PM
Yeah whirlpool is brewpi. They just got in pumps, elements and motorised valves too, so they really have everything you need now.

No idea on the dead space. Once I get the lids cut out of them, I'll be popping the hauter into Tue base of one and doing a water test to see. I'm guessing about 2L, which is my hop loss rate already.

Nice, let us know anyway. I've a centre diptube on mine which makes whirlpooling slightly pointless so I'd be pretty interested in something like the hauter

Great settup.

Ive a few questions about where you got some of the bits.
Where did you get the Igloo Cooler, the motorised pumps and the disconnects?

I want to add the pump items to my own build. I wouldnt mind upgrading my cooler as mine is quite small.

Igloo cooler is from GetErBrewed. It's a 45L cooler, which gives you plenty of capacity for anything you need to brew, though you need to account for the cooling effect of the extra headspace in smaller beers. I'm planning on moving over to a keggle for this eventually, but I like the extra insulation so I'm slow to change.

The rest of the parts came from the BrewPi store. The connections are camlock fittings, which are a breeze to use, though are a little head wrecking to figure out at the start. It's better to put the female parts on your tubing and then male outlets on everything you are connecting too, both for ease of connection and cost.

The pump is a solar pump, which I will actually be selling on quite soon, as I have two much larger pumps on the way in a group buy from the States. It's perfect for recirculating a mash but not powerful enough to generate a decent whirlpool.

I hope to get the next step in the build up over the next few weekends. I'm going to build a dedicated brewstand for everything and put it in the other side of the room, as well as mount the pumps etc so it's  finally a single level setup and no longer will require lifting liquids on brewday.

Thanks for the info.
Yea i also want to get away from lifting liquids, for one i wont always be able to lift it! and 2 if it spills and its hot then it could be dangerous.

Starting to work on the keg conversion work now. Going to cut the lids in about two weeks,  but want to do another brew on the current system in its final configuration with the new chugger pumps first.

In the meantime I decided to clean up the kegs a bit. They have paint on them as well as a lot of nicks. Going to be staring at these for hours in end in the final system, so I want a nice brushed metal look.

Most posts online are for cleaning products in the US, so hard enough to get a reference for this part of the world.

Tried using a paint scraper and oven cleaner first. An hour later and a bit of polishing with some stainless steel polish and all I had done was this:

So a new approach was needed or I'd go insane. Found a 3M paint removal disk for the drill and tested on a small patch. Not only does it remove the paint but it also brings up a lovely polish on the metal. It's not fully uniform but still looks the business. If I really get bothered, I'll go over it once with my polishing disk to give the uniform finish.
30 minutes has removed most of the paint and now the drill needs to charge before I finish it off. Going to also give the rest of the keg a run, though that's much easier when you're not stripping paint as well.

So today I finally got the right size angle grinder in the house and started to work in the BK conversion. Made a jig for the grinder and had a stainless steel cutting disc, so it flew through.

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/15/83a0dd242e0c0774f592a3785b3efc45.jpg)

Filled the keg with water first as well so there was no pitting on the inside. A quick washout after and good to start putting in the holes for the fittings.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/15/c82592c84a2f1e42095e2fedb6e6ae6e.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/15/68f62e613601a612ae0af71af4367ca9.jpg)

This was much much harder. As Ciderhead pointed out before, kegs have some pretty thick stainless, so even with plenty of lube and going slow and hard, a few bits broke and it took ages to drill the pilot holes for the hole punch. Then after the second it looks like the punch has seized and the threads are ripped from the central barrel. Going to need to do a bit of reading and find a better way if doing the 1/2" holes.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/15/861f010b58a583ef96e30077673d5d4a.jpg)

That said, once they were punched, they were perfect and everything fit like a glove.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/15/f6e0c39cad1c60cf49e4dd0e56104a7e.jpg)

Still need to make the 1" hole for the heating element which I hope to try and finish tomorrow. After that, need to finish polishing the keg and were good to go. Also will be fitting a sight glass, but initially I'll just find some sort of marked stick for the first brew.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/15/3a149e6a0a63638905703c58722cf9be.jpg)
The hauterhexe is the perfect size, though it is pretty high in a keg. After whirlpooling, it might not even be necessary and a dip tube might work better, but won't know until I do a brew. I can always just mash a little more to compensate anyways, as the setup has enough space!

Oh also picked up a 34" stainless lid in Ikea and it fits perfectly!
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/15/b344f773baab64aa5876835c261d8146.jpg)

Jesus man surprised about the hole punch. I've done 6 holes on keggles with the punches and they were perfect. Definitely gets a bit tough right before it pulls through but they're perfect holes and the punch is still in great shape.

Molc,

If your having issues with the hole punch I have a set of holes saws and a hardened step bit that you could use if you want. Could the issue with the bits/punch giving you problems be that your drill is not strong enough? I used a wired drill for holes in all three of my ss vessels and while it was slow to get them done they did not cause major problems. I did break one drill bit adding holes in the skirt of the keg to attach bolts for some additional clearance space, but that was because I got impatient and did not use anything to lube/cool the drilling area.

Shanna

The trick is to run it as slow as you can whilst also putting huge pressure on it and allowing the hose to trickle water to ensure the bit doesn't make the steel hardened., nice lid!

Shanna, I might take you up on that. The hole punch doesn't use a drill, so that's more a case of the bolt that goes through it being too soft. I think I can replace it as the punch itself seems ok, if I can just manage to take it apart again. :)

Didn't realise the metal can harden if you go too fast. I was spraying both with wd40 but the second one was crazy hard, so that probably explains it.

More practice tomorrow doing the 1" hole :)

Get the hose out, I'm not convinced about WD.
Mr Dempsey showed me that it's better long and slow with pressure cutting like butter, you will visibly see the flakes come off rather than whizzing away.....wait for it

Yeah near the end, I started to see that, so will try again tomorrow.

Also finally managed to take apart the hole cutter. The tool itself is fine but the bolt that it uses for leverage has its threads ruined. Will see can I find something to fit in woodies tomorrow that I can get a better grip on with the vice grips.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/15/578d93f0ef269d6e2a19ebc0be7269d7.jpg)

Quote from: Ciderhead on August 15, 2015, 08:48:07 PM
Get the hose out, I'm not convinced about WD.
Mr Dempsey showed me that it's better long and slow with pressure cutting like butter, you will visibly see the flakes come off rather than whizzing away.....wait for it

Slow and steady wins the race :) Got to get me a couple of those lids!!!!

Shanna

looks like an M8 bolt bring the cutter base to try a few in woodies
OMG what did you use to tighten it or was that getting it off
I never used those even though I have one but I'm guessing a really good correctly sized allen key on a long handle will give you the torq or a bit of metal pipe as an extension just to take it home
I still think my chinese bits and a very expensive step drill (50stg) are the dogs and have done 20+ holes at this stage
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-set-16-32mm-Carbide-Stainless-Steel-Tipped-Drill-Bit-Metal-Heavy-Duty-Hole-Saw-tool/32344651179.html

The bolt was stupid, it's a round and takes an Allen key, which of course isn't strong enough to give good torgue. The vice grips destroyed the head but at least it got it opened again.

You won't find anything suitable in Woodies or a diy shop.

You need a high tensile cap head screw. Best place is All Metal Fastners (next to M50 and N2 - North Park)

Also when using q-max cutter use a really good oil or grease on the threads!

How long was your Allen key? I used one of those stupidly long ones with an extension handle. Job done.

The Allen key isn't too long, but I'm able to put a bar on it. Used the dip tube from the keg for torque today on the last hole which worked pretty well, though I can see the same damage starting on the bolt with the other cutter as well. Broke another drill it in the process too. Teach me to get shoddy tools.:)

Anyway, that's all the holes in the boil kettle done. Will repair the hole cutter (thanks for the info will) for the HLT next month, but in the meantime I'm going to cleanup and finish the boil kettle for my next brew.

First brewday since the pumps arrived from the groupbuy and I got my new brewing table all setup. Thought an action pic might be appropriate, as I sit here twiddling my thumbs and the herms does all the work.
It's still a manual herms, but it ammounts to setting temp on hlt to +2 target and just sitting back.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/05/a317a5fe19018c54f2b41c8116ad23a1.jpg)

Getting there :)

Spoke too soon. Damn 2.8kw element keeps tripping the fusebox, so now I'm booking in the hlt for this batch. Going to be a bitch to clean. Looks like I need to do some electrical work before the next time I try and use this.

Use an extension lead to another line in the house it will get you out of trouble today just make sure it's unfurled
I trip my shed out with 2.7x2 and the tumble drier on!
What else are you running? Kettle washing machine?

Trips the extension lead to another circuit as well as well. Nothing else on in the house. I'll check for a short in the circuit and any water when I strip it down.

I have a 2.5kw element that was destined for the hlt that I'll swap in for the next brew.
My new, less intensive setup, while repairs are ongoing. The bucket at the bottom is what I'm losing after moving away from the keggle :)

Oh no! I was just about to pull the plug on one of those element.

Quote from: armedcor on September 05, 2015, 03:45:39 PM
Oh no! I was just about to pull the plug on one of those element.

Don't lose hope yet, I think I just cocked up the installation of the element. Looks like the wire wrapped around itself when I screwed flit together and just burned itself out. Will give it another go after I rewire on a test 60 min water boil.

Ah OK great! I really like the idea of the camco style element especially in all stainless. Was gonna use it in my new build.

The direction of the twist on the cable would suggest that this was done removing the cover without opening the cable gland first, so is a seperate issue to the loose connection.
I would suggest getting some heat proof flex and using this for the final connection to the heater rather than the solid NYMJ cable which you are using. You will get a better connection with the spade connectors with flexible cable rather than with solid core cable and therefore minimise this problem re occurring

Quote from: Sorcerers Apprentice on September 07, 2015, 10:07:01 AM
The direction of the twist on the cable would suggest that this was done removing the cover without opening the cable gland first, so is a seperate issue to the loose connection.
I would suggest getting some heat proof flex and using this for the final connection to the heater rather than the solid NYMJ cable which you are using. You will get a better connection with the spade connectors with flexible cable rather than with solid core cable and therefore minimise this problem re occurring

Lefty loosey, righty tight? As in, the coiling is from turning the backplate clockwise, which is when you tighten it, which means the gland was already fitted and coiled the cable with it. As a result, the wires are coiled and overheating. Have I missed something?

Regardless, I think your cabling suggestion is spot on. This wire is very stiff and a bitch to bend into the fitting, which is meaning it's getting damaged when I tighten, as it's very easy to cut the insulation when I fit the enclosure. I'll take a look for that flexi wire. Thanks!

SA what about a reverse twist and  then when it's screwed in its relaxed and not twisted?

I would connect the element up first put on the cover and last tighten the gland then only connect the other end of the cable when the element has been screwed into it's threaded fitting. Better still buy an inline socket to make removal of the element easier in future, just unplug the cable and let the whole lot spin as you unscrew the element for cleaning etc.
Molc my point about the rotation of the cable is that the twist was made either unscrewing the element or the element cover (if it is threaded) the twist on the cable is anti clockwise which was made removing the element not installing it (which would have left the cable twisted clockwise.)

That twist in the cable is clockwise from the pic as far as I can tell. Maybe my eyes are failing me. It was def the twisted area that failed too, as it was deeply blackened from overheating. However, it also burned the edge of the stainless steel cover, in fact melted it slightly, so the cover may have cut the cable or being pressed against it.

Your points on the gland are spot in and won't be repeated. Silly mistake. Extra happy everything is earthed, as I could have gotten quite a shock otherwise.

I'll pick up the flex cable, rewire and be very careful this time around when wiring, along with a full length boil test and reinspect everything after.

EDIT: Also picked up some Neutik connectors to make detachable cables. As SA suggested, will make cleaning a hell of a lot easier.
(https://images5.static-thomann.de/pics/prod/329500.jpg)

Funny how the easiest part of the build is the one that has given the most trouble. Everything else has gone faultlessly so far.

I use those connectors. They're the job!

Quick update. Tools arrived from aliexpress, so I could get on with work. For €12 I got a set of step bits that cut through the kegs like butter, so did the hlt and also installed my sight glasses. Calibrated one today and will do the other later. Pic shown is calibrating the boil kettle with water from the hlt, using the chugger. Amazing all the uses you find for pumps once you get one :)

Also got some insulation for both, as last brew day, I had an issue holding a rolling boil. Have a mesh splatter screen that I'll now put over the bk to let steam out and keep heat in. Should test it all this weekend.

The trick is to not let condensation drip back into the kettle during the boil, also the bulk of the voletiles are evaporated early in the boil, so you shouldn't cover the kettle at all during the initial stages of the boil
Edit if you are using a screen to keep leaves/insects out during the boil outside, try to keep it at an angle so that any condensation runs onto the top of the keggle rather than dripping back into the brew

Yup going to try keeping it at an angle so whatever condenses runs off. Also since its a screen, a lot should evoperate away as well.
Years to use this kit. Can have a few dms batches dialling it in :)

Looking at the brulosophers latest exbeeriment I don't think it's that big a deal. DMS might be a problem for less modified malts like floor malted but most of our stuff these days is highly modified!

They didn't test with a lid or obstruction on the kettle, plus always bear in mind that one man's rolling  boil may not be the same as the next guys, it is important to look at boil off rate as much as boil time

Very true. But a 30 m vs 90 m is a huge difference. Again totally agree I'd love if they did one with a lid vs no lid. Even partial lid.

Well the next 4 beers are all going to be with the mesh and going to the nationals, if they aren't bad.  One of them will even be a schwartzbier with pilsner malt.

So, we'll have bjcp judging of the results of this. In the interests of science, the method will be up here and I'll post if dms comes up.

Nice. I've a berliner weisse planned next and will probably only boil for 10/15 mins. Might even leave the lid on partially and see what happens.

As SA, I'd be upping your boil elements or insulating your boiler rather than restricting boil off.

He insulated the keggle so thats covered anyway. My old system I used 2 elements and it was super fast and had a great boil off but it really is a pain having to use two different power inputs when you don't have a 30A outlet etc.

Molc remind us what juice you are drawing through hlt boiler hems etc

Boil kettle is 2.8Kw and the hlt is 2.5kw. BK was topping out at 92C last time and it was gently rolling the surface. That was with no cover or insulation.
Both vessals are going to be insulated next batch and I have the screen as a backup option if it isn't vigorous enough.

The alternative option is to install my spare 2kw elements in both keggles, but I need to get a 37mm hole saw for that I think. They are the stand elements from THBC.

Part of all this is documenting it on here as well, so people can learn from all my mistakes.

Yep 2.8 isn't gonna cut it is that the lwd element? Ok we've had hop trub pics time for boil vids which are easy to do on tapatalk ;)

Yeah low density element from brewpi. Pretty much already figured I'll need to put the second element in there. Are the home brew company ones a 37mm hole? Aliexpress is going to love me :)

No trub cone with me though, as I'm using a hop bag. Need to filter for the plate chiller or it'll clog. I'll do up a wee video next brewday of the kit in use. Doing an amber with whirlpool hops on Saturday;)

Colm I have a punch for the hbc sized elements. I won't be home for a few weeks but if you can wait it's all yours.

I drilled a 38 mm hole and had to get the file out so I'd reckon on 40mm to be on the safe side?

(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xta1/t51.2885-15/s320x320/e15/11024176_1586897881527328_40894048_n.jpg)

Better to be looking at it alright ;)

Quote from: armedcor on October 11, 2015, 10:34:12 PM
Colm I have a punch for the hbc sized elements. I won't be home for a few weeks but if you can wait it's all yours.

Thanks for the offer but I've destroyed my own punches using them on the keg, so don't want to do that to your tools as well. I'm sure I'll find something on aliexpress for dirt cheap :)

No bother!

About €4 for a 40mm hole saw. I feel so dirty with AliExpress sometimes :D
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/40mm-Stainless-Steel-Hole-Saws-Carbide-Alloy-Hole-Saw-3-wholesale/1182304754.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.21.SreW0O&ws_ab_test=201556_1,201527_1_71_72_73_74_75,201560_2

Do Aliexpress take PayPal?

Quote from: Will_D on October 12, 2015, 10:35:03 AM
Do Aliexpress take PayPal?

Alas no, you have to use your CC with them. I've been pleasantly surprised by their tool quality though. Got step bits from them for cheap and they have done a sterling job and still good as new.
These are the ones I got in case anyone needs the in future:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-High-Quality-5pcs-Set-HSS-COBALT-MULTIPLE-HOLE-50-Sizes-STEP-DRILL-BIT-SET/32326600192.html

Man embrace the aliexpress! I love buying odds and ends when it's free shipping!

Thanks guys, ye have prolly just cost me a shed load of money!  :)  :)

Managed to blow up me cut off saw yesterday:

Aparently 6 mm stainless is a bit harder than wood!

Join the AA = AliExpress Anonymous.

Seriously dangerous site, kid in a sweetshop syndrome, 'ooh, one of those things. Oh, look over there, more ...'

What's that smell? Burning plastic

Quote from: Will_D on October 12, 2015, 08:32:22 PM
Thanks guys, ye have prolly just cost me a shed load of money!  :)  :)

Managed to blow up me cut off saw yesterday:

Aparently 6 mm stainless is a bit harder than wood!

WTF were you cutting 6mm stainless for :)

Quote from: DEMPSEY on October 13, 2015, 10:14:57 AM

Quote from: Will_D on October 12, 2015, 08:32:22 PM
Thanks guys, ye have prolly just cost me a shed load of money!  :)  :)

Managed to blow up me cut off saw yesterday:

Aparently 6 mm stainless is a bit harder than wood!

WTF were you cutting 6mm stainless for :)

I'm in tool making mode.

I haver just finished maching some 50 mm square 304 as well!

Quick update before the weekend. Both keggles are built and calibrated now, as well as insulated. Oh so very shiny.

This should be the end of the hardware build, bar adding an additional element to each for "boost" mode.

Late start but the brew is finally on. Kit looks great installed. The insulation has brought by boil from 92 to 99.6, so quite a difference. I'll upload the video later as it keeps crashing this app.

Hlt is def underpowered, so will add an extra element next month.

Next stop, brewpi pid update, once released, as well as the ssr installation to control everything.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/18/e79ae7866c16fa9439aecdd69510d2ab.jpg)
   

Like the glass stacking for the hop additions :)

Is your temp probe on the top or return of the  MT?
I make mistake of putting it half way down on my very first herms

Tapatalk has an easy video function is that what kept crashing?

I usually put masking tape on the glasses with the times, but my roll whet walkabout tonight.

Yeah my phone just crashes when I use the tapatalk feature. I took a video though, so will pop it up Ayer with good drive or you tube ors.
I have probes at the top, the bottom outlet and also on the herms outlet so I can watch them all. The pid will be reacting to the herms out in the final config. I think there will be too much lag if I use the MT out as the sensor.
The other issue I'm now having is ventilation. 5L is a lot of steam and it pours down the walls, even with all the windows open. Might have to move to the sunroom in the future or fix the venting upstairs.

Are you happy with your PID tuning molc? Not an expert but have spent a lot of time tuning PID loops so am fascinated to see them being used for brewing. Adding another heating coil will definitely mean retuning so keen to hear how you get on.

Brewpi software hasn't added the pid yet, so I actually just tweak the flow rates by hand right now on mash and get pretty close. I'll let you know how pid works out when I start using it :)

Quick update from today's brew day. Everything bar the final control box is built now, as I'm waiting on a few parts from China. Mash tun is now a keg as well and bar needing a bit of work on the false bottom, it's working well. Going to use the lid from the keg and put a bit of tubing through the hole to suck all the liquid from the bottom. The biab bag makes cleaning a breeze, as well as stopping any chance of a stuck sparge.

Extraction system really keeps the smells down and means no cleaning the walls after a long brew. Best purchase ever.

I've switched over to an ardbir for control and today is the first time using it with the existing sensors from the brewpi setup. It got my mash to a solid 66 within 8 minutes of mash in and held it there solidly with no variation until mash out. In the pic you can see the brewpi measuring the mash out and hlt in, with about .5 difference through the mash.

Over the Christmas, I'll build a control box properly for if, rather than the lunch boxes and all will be finished.

Oh, also I clean everything in place now, which is a real pleasure.

I need to pop around some time for a look, are you selling tickets?
How can we get ard bir to be more accurate, I know my pid takes 10 mins in learning mode when I set it up originally but then it doesn't budge +\- .1

Tours are at 4, 6 and 8 :D ardbir is only accurate to .25C due to the onewire library they are using. I think Brewpi is more advanced and accurate, which is why I'm keeping control separate from the electrics in the build. Want to be able to easily swap in the future.

Nice build!! Insert drool here..

@molc what are using for the extraction system and what did it set you back...

Quote from: darren996 on December 15, 2015, 09:08:54 AM
@molc what are using for the extraction system and what did it set you back...

There's a separate thread, as I was initially aiming for a passive system and looking for advice.
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/forum/index.php/topic,10895.0.html

If you're brewing indoors, just get one is all I have to say. That, plus the ArdBir, have given a great level of comfort to my brew days.

The only modification I've made is I put it at an angle so the condensate drips onto a towel that I run around the lip of the keggle. Also I pop it over the mash while that's running, just to suck out any vapours that may be flowing. The day after the brew, there's almost no smell anymore - the fiancee is a huge fan :D

Yeah, I will be brewing in doors and this will make SHMBO very happy and the kids dont like the smell of daddies special soup 😉 Thanks for the link..

Mentioned previously that I needed a better false bottom for the keg. Took the angle grinder to the old lid and made one quickly today. Since I use a bag for filtering the opening at the top isn't an issue, but you can close that with some silicon or even the top of a jar.

Fits perfectly in the keg and gives about 5L space for the mash.

Bloody hell I saw that in Star Wars last week nice job
I'm sure I have the head of a keg somewhere if you want a more permanent blockage

Hehehe :) I have a keg dip tube as well - still need to see if the one I have fits this. It's not something I'm worrying about atm, but probably will do it to make it a nice finish.

I'll post up a few more pics Thursday once I've used it for the first time.

It's time for a summary post of the build. At this point all the initial goals have been reached and the further extensions are are scope creep, so thought it might be nice to see where it stands.

Initial goals:

• < €1000 for the initial manual build.

Blew the budget and came in around €1800. However, that included buying an extraction system, the stainless table, plate chiller and an ardbir, not to mention extra tools I needed as I went. I'd say the initial plan overran by about €2-300.

• BrewPi Spark systems for the PID

The thread has been renamed to ArdBir build, as this part was a failure. The software is still nowhere near ready, a year after BrewPi started the mash rework. At this point, the PID and PWM algorithm have been rewritten, but the interface is clunky and very manual.
On the other hand, if ArdBir had logging and a mobile app, it would be head and toes ahead. It's a great solution and something I wholeheartedly recommend. It has achieved my initial goal and then some, so I'm very happy.

• Run on domestic power supply, with 2.5kW low density elements.

Success. The whole system runs on 3 domestic circuits; 2 elements upto 3kw and a third circuit for pumps, air extraction and sundries. It's crude and I'm going to build a proper box for all the electrics, but it's does the trick and is pretty easy to use.
One change here is I upgraded both kegs to run 2 elements. The second element both shortens the ramp time and also actually reduces the heating of the wiring, as they are loaded for less time and not at the limit. I'd strongly recommend always doing your heating elements over what is required, as everything just runs much more comfortably.

• Keggle based.

Yup, and they rock :D They're heavy beasts, but if you can find a source, they are cheap and very good quality. I clean everything in place using the pumps, so the weight isn't a factor.

I've included pics of all the setup below. They are in separate posts due to size limitations In order:

• Grain storage in the brew kitchen, starting a brew day
• Internals of the HLT, mash tun, complete with new keg lid false bottom and biab bag for easy cleaning, and BK.
• ArdBir and associated SR's, which are separate and below the desk. I'm going to build these out as a separate project, making a simple interface that I can reimplement down the line if I change the control system, using standard network cables.
• Brewday, in auto mode on the ardbir. It just beeps at me and does the mash ramping etc on it's own. It rocks. I love it. Still need to tweak a few parameters; for instance it stops heating as it's doign a pump rest, which I don't need, but that will all be sorted in the next batch. Also the PWM works great with the two elements. It really brings the whole system to life nad means there are much less electrics to manage.
• Cooling with the plate chiller. 15 mins from 90C to 17c. I use a hop spider to stop it getting clogged and push wort through it as fast as the pumps allow.

I should have taken a pic of cleaning as well, but it's basically a case of holding the plate chiller water in the mash tun and pumping it to the BK, followed by an Oxi W5 Clean and finally a rince.

That's it really. I'll probably post in a few months with how I did the electrics box to get rid of all the wiring everywhere, but it's not really part of this build and something that has evolved out of use.

CH, that tour is waiting :)

ArdBir in auto mode, doing the mash, as well as it's wiring. I still use the BrewPi for other temperature probes, but those are more out of curiosity.
Also, using the lauterHexe to hold the biab is overkill - I don't use it since I got the Hop Spider - really must sell it on... Also, in this brew it held the bag up too much and I think it caused by efficiency to go nuts as water channeled down the side of the mash.

Air Extraction and the Plate Chiller in action. I keep a towel on the keg lid just to catch any condensate and SMM that might drip down.

Just stop it!!!  I have to turn the iPad screen off every time herself walks by..
Lol
Cool build

Looks great Molc, you might try a stainless lid for the mash vessel with the wort return connected through the lid. That way it's landing directly on top of the grain rather than returning on the outside of the bag?

A little tricky to see on the pic, but the return actually goes through a tube that's passed through a hole I cut in the bag. Just the last batch the bag was very taut, which caused a void to form at the sides.

That said, I have been toying with the idea of a return on the lid, connected to something to spray the liquid out for sparging.

At last making a start with the Arbbir A-in-O and my grainfather.

Any one else notice that the ds1820 probe is a wisker larger than the GFs probe (which is a thermistor)?

Quote from: Will_D on January 05, 2016, 02:30:50 PM
At last making a start with the Arbbir A-in-O and my grainfather.

Any one else notice that the ds1820 probe is a wisker larger than the GFs probe (which is a thermistor)?

Yes, I did too.
LOL,  ;D  ;D used the grindstone of my wife's nail polishing set to make it a wee bit smaller. After 10min polishing and trying it fitted OK. Start at the edges on the tip and smooth them a bit. Goodluck with it

Just came upon this, what a beauty. Only recently started all grain, the brown streaks on my wall from ignorantly boiling with no ventilation is making me very jealous of that extractor fan!

Ah but does he make good beer
.....unfortunately yes

Quote from: CH on May 04, 2016, 01:15:02 AM
Ah but does he make good beer
.....unfortunately yes

It's debatable. At least, I don't make bad beer. At least not that I talk about. I keep that in a dark place, away from prying eyes :D

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Quick update on this. I've started the wiring and control box for the setup, now that I've got everything bedded in. Got some 8 pin connectors on Ebay and made a cable to connect the control box, which runs in 12V, to the electrics, which has 2 16A circuits wired. Soldering an 8 pin cable with connectors is a real PITA!

Using PowerConn connectors for the mains wiring and have 4 "control" signals coming from the control box, two for pumps and two for the elements. There is a mains override switch for each element, which must be enabled for the ArdBir PWM signal to be allowed through. Pumps are simple on/off switches.

I just need to finish wiring in the relay and live lines, but most of the earth and neutral connects are in now, as well as a full end to end test of the control. Seeing the little red led on the SSR flash was a real relief after putting in all that work.

Pics!

looking great

Quote from: pob on May 30, 2016, 12:30:29 PM
looking great

Pro tip, don't do soldering after judging. May have burnt the carpet once!

Pretty much the last post in this, as it's all done, bar making up some nice labels for switches.

Did a 60C cleaning cycle yesterday evening and everything worked first time. Will need to monitor if the box gets hot on a full brewday, but otherwise very happy.

Final wiring test with everything done:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160608/e60b0efc28704b58a5e6b05b15fb6ffb.jpg)

Cleaning. Dont we just love it ;)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160608/244a23b6cbd0174c7e02f54050da52c4.jpg)

There is a button missing at the bottom of that last post can you fix it? "add to cart"

Yeah if you factor in time, the cost would probably be scary :) Labour of love as they say.

Never sit down with a pen and paper to write down the costs and never repeat,NEVER leave the paper on the kitchen table for the wife to read :o :D

Quote from: DEMPSEY on June 09, 2016, 11:35:38 AM
Never sit down with a pen and paper to write down the costs and never repeat,NEVER leave the paper on the kitchen table for the wife to read :o :D
Too late 😨😨😨

Molc would you have the links for the connector you used to connect up the temp probes in the t joint in the taps and also the connectors you for the plug & play?

Shanna

Nigel C had some from eBay I think also, I bought one on the strength of it but can't find the link now but was solid enough.

GX16 3 pin? (https://m.aliexpress.com/item/876278024.html?aff_click_id=4b7daa73285145e09ff2714c8e996726-1463215003279-02006-qbyZzJAI6&aff_platform=y)

Quote from: pob on September 06, 2016, 11:11:18 PM
GX16 3 pin? (https://m.aliexpress.com/item/876278024.html?aff_click_id=4b7daa73285145e09ff2714c8e996726-1463215003279-02006-qbyZzJAI6&aff_platform=y)

Sound Peter.

Shanna

Quote from: Shanna on September 06, 2016, 08:44:38 PM
Molc would you have the links for the connector you used to connect up the temp probes in the t joint in the taps and also the connectors you for the plug & play?

Shanna

Everything you need: https://store.brewpi.com/temperature-control/temperature-sensors

What I use .

http://m.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-Temperature-Sensors-1-2-NPT-Threads-with-Detachable-Connector-/251771167964?nav=SEARCH

Connected to Panel Chassis Mount XLR 4 Pin Male Plug Microphone Cable Connector off aliexpress.
Link to the one I got is dead but loads there.

Quote from: molc on September 06, 2016, 11:29:58 PM

Quote from: Shanna on September 06, 2016, 08:44:38 PM
Molc would you have the links for the connector you used to connect up the temp probes in the t joint in the taps and also the connectors you for the plug & play?

Shanna

Everything you need: https://store.brewpi.com/temperature-control/temperature-sensors

Now I understand about the RJ11 connector reference you made earlier. Do they plugin in to some other adaptor? They are pretty pricey especially considering I have a bunch of the one wire sensors already :(

Shanna

Shanna

How are you using them? With a thermowell in the side or from the top?

They screw into a standard 1/2" bsp T-piece at any point I need a temperature reading. They are in-line with the flow in and out of the herms currently, with another on the hlt out if I need to monitor that temperature.

Check out the pics on this thread and you'll see them on the extra long connections to some if the pots.

I got a few of these at the start along with wire probes for the fermentation control and never looked back. Checked against a thermapen recently and all were within the bounds of error on the calibration sheet.

Quote from: molc on September 07, 2016, 08:38:28 AM
They screw into a standard 1/2" bsp T-piece at any point I need a temperature reading. They are in-line with the flow in and out of the herms currently, with another on the hlt out if I need to monitor that temperature.

Check out the pics on this thread and you'll see them on the extra long connections to some if the pots.

I got a few of these at the start along with wire probes for the fermentation control and never looked back. Checked against a thermapen recently and all were within the bounds of error on the calibration sheet.

The look great & I love the flexibility of being able to remove when not in use but they ate pricey I wonder if one could fashion a cheap and cheerful version via a screw in nipple and some waterproof sealant. Suspect it would leak eventually. What is at the other end of the cable in terms of you plugging in the RJ11? Have you wired a telephone socket in to the arduino board? It's not clear from the photos? Ideally thinking of how to a setup with a small raspberry pi 7" screen to.run the craftbeer pi software to be able to do herms as well.as.monitoring fermentation over time. I understand the stability of the pi is an issue. Just not sure how to address that? The arduino site you bought from has stopped doing the boards.

Shanna

Shanna

Quote from: Shanna on September 07, 2016, 12:42:48 PM
...What is at the other end of the cable in terms of you plugging in the RJ11? Have you wired a telephone socket in to the arduino board?...

Exactly that. I have the pin outs written down somewhere, which I worked out by looking at the connector and the phone socket pins REALLY closely :)
I need to document my pin connections for that and the controller cable anyway and save it somewhere, as it's currently in a notebook at home. Poke me to send it to you if I forget.
For fermentation control, I'd just get a BrewPi and not mess around. It cost me ~€100 and has never let me down. I hope to use it for many years to come.

(For fermentation)

Or if you have the Raspberry Pi already, pick up a couple of cheap Chinese Arduinos (1 for redundancy) & build a headless BrewPi.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/c7961cf19fe95de548f1024bfcba3201.jpg)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/3b08e07e6a3577d5610f6467e162528f.jpg)

With s/steel thermowell through top for temp probe. You could still use RJ11 or DIN/GX16 plug/sockets on box for storage.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/09c023798b17c3d5d2ad61cc5995d372.jpg)

(For mash/brewing)
I tried loading the CraftBeerPi on a spare Raspberry Pi.

Eh, a bit flaky; think it's more the RasPi than the software.

Didn't like that the temp doesn't update automatically on screen while changing; you need to hit refresh (BrewPi auto refreshes every sec or so). I didn't add any SSRs just a couple of One Wire temp probes.

Don't think I'd fancy relying on my phone/tablet if it crapped out mid mash - would also need a stable wifi link to brewing corner/area.

Will stick with ArdBir until I find the next good thing

The ArdBir with a web interface would be good but needs to keep Arduino stability.

Quote from: pob on September 07, 2016, 01:13:42 PM
(For mash/brewing)
I tried loading the CraftBeerPi on a spare Raspberry Pi.

Eh, a bit flaky; think it's more the RasPi than the software.

Didn't like that the temp doesn't update automatically on screen while changing; you need to hit refresh (BrewPi auto refreshes every sec or so). I didn't add any SSRs just a couple of One Wire temp probes.

Don't think I'd fancy relying on my phone/tablet if it crapped out mid mash - would also need a stable wifi link to brewing corner/area.

Will stick with ArdBir until I find the next good thing

The ArdBir with a web interface would be good but needs to keep Arduino stability.

What version of craftbeerpi are you using? I have a basic setup with one on a pi zero running rasbian and temp changes are instant on screen.

You can also setup an adhoc network on the pi as a fallback and connect when you can't get a stable wifi link.
The ardbir is very stable and I use this as my primary unit, the lcd panel and buttons are very handy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was using an older Raspberry Pi B with Rasbian, it was connected by Ethernet cable , no WiFi.

Plugged temp probes directly onto GPIO pins (using a breadboard for resister), they took a while to register even being connected.

When up & running the PC display needed to be refreshed to update the temp values (I'd hold them to get temp changes to test).

I didn't test it with the phone, maybe that responds better.

I will fire mine up later and see.  Did you update cbpi 2.1 lately?

Still waiting on a few bits so I can do a brewday test.

Only set it up & tried it last week. I'd like to see it working alright, in the meantime I'll stick with ArdBir & LCD display, easier to manage in shed on brewday.

The relying on a good wifi connection to shed for CraftBeerPi doesn't instill confidence, what happens mid brew when you drop link & it starts the next process as you're trying to reconnect tablet/phone to it.

Maybe a 7"/9" screen (touch?) might be a way to do it, would allow on the spot control & remote access to monitor?

(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0176/3274/products/102035_1024x1024.jpg?v=1456502964)

Yeah,  the wifi link is a major gripe for me but the adhoc network would get around this.

You can pick up a small touch screen panel fairly cheap,  the setup in the pic looks the business. Stop showing me things like that.:)

Case only £15 (https://thepihut.com/collections/raspberry-pi-screens/products/raspberry-pi-official-7-touchscreen-case)

;)

Screen might by £55 though ??? (https://thepihut.com/collections/raspberry-pi-screens/products/official-raspberry-pi-7-touchscreen-display), sure you could get cheaper on Ali?

Oh look, €30 (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/7-Inch-800x480-HDMI-TFT-LCD-Touch-Screen-for-Raspberry-PI-3-2-Model-B-B/32712193282.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.103.q6zfU9&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_10,searchweb201602_4_10057_10056_10065_10037_10068_10055_10054_10069_301_10059_10033_10058_10073_10017_10070_10060_10061_10052_10062_10053_10050_10051,searchweb201603_1&btsid=12d3ffb2-0550-4f34-a9ea-945f143e6705) :D :D :D

(http://g01.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1yS7UKVXXXXXIXVXXq6xXFXXXK/220668524/HTB1yS7UKVXXXXXIXVXXq6xXFXXXK.jpg)

Quote from: pob on September 08, 2016, 03:52:17 PM
Oh look, €30 (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/7-Inch-800x480-HDMI-TFT-LCD-Touch-Screen-for-Raspberry-PI-3-2-Model-B-B/32712193282.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.103.q6zfU9&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_10,searchweb201602_4_10057_10056_10065_10037_10068_10055_10054_10069_301_10059_10033_10058_10073_10017_10070_10060_10061_10052_10062_10053_10050_10051,searchweb201603_1&btsid=12d3ffb2-0550-4f34-a9ea-945f143e6705) :D :D :D

(http://g01.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1yS7UKVXXXXXIXVXXq6xXFXXXK/220668524/HTB1yS7UKVXXXXXIXVXXq6xXFXXXK.jpg)

Nice!

Quote from: molc on September 07, 2016, 12:46:45 PM

Quote from: Shanna on September 07, 2016, 12:42:48 PM
...What is at the other end of the cable in terms of you plugging in the RJ11? Have you wired a telephone socket in to the arduino board?...

Exactly that. I have the pin outs written down somewhere, which I worked out by looking at the connector and the phone socket pins REALLY closely :)
I need to document my pin connections for that and the controller cable anyway and save it somewhere, as it's currently in a notebook at home. Poke me to send it to you if I forget.
For fermentation control, I'd just get a BrewPi and not mess around. It cost me ~€100 and has never let me down. I hope to use it for many years to come.

Having a bit of a head scratcher trying to understand the deal with the brewpi. Understand that it can take multiple temperature sensors and that its recommended to use two one for the beer temperature (say in a thermowell in the fermenter) and a second for the ambient temperature inside the fridge. What I am not 100% sure is how the brewpi uses this when you have say a pair of electrical sockets one for the fridge and the other for a tube heater.

The following shows a specialised relay controller that looks like it can switch from one ssr to the other. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2798684/BrewPi-Schematic.png

I have a pair of 3-12 V DC- 30 - 400 AC SSRs, the Raspberry PI, the DS18B20, the power supply and associated wiring. In theory I would only need to buy an Arduino to complete a DIY build. I understand that I can buy the BrewPi with the newer spark processor but even with that I am not entirely clear how to wire up the two SSRs to allow switching between the power for the fridge and the tube heaters. Then I found this http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/forum/index.php?topic=9506.0 & read your remark about it not being well documented :)

Any chance you could redraw your diagram on a bigger scale with some different colors so that my semi frazzled state can process more easily !!!

Shanna

Quote from: molc on September 07, 2016, 12:46:45 PM

Quote from: Shanna on September 07, 2016, 12:42:48 PM
...What is at the other end of the cable in terms of you plugging in the RJ11? Have you wired a telephone socket in to the arduino board?...

Exactly that. I have the pin outs written down somewhere, which I worked out by looking at the connector and the phone socket pins REALLY closely :)
I need to document my pin connections for that and the controller cable anyway and save it somewhere, as it's currently in a notebook at home. Poke me to send it to you if I forget.
For fermentation control, I'd just get a BrewPi and not mess around. It cost me ~€100 and has never let me down. I hope to use it for many years to come.

Found the following wiring diagram for the RJ-11 for the one wire dallas probes - http://www.homenetworkenabled.com/content.php?179-Making-your-own-Temp-1Wire-Temperature-sensor-with-RJ11-interface  As I have loads of the DS18B20 going to give it a try to see if I can get them crimped and working rather than paying the brewpi prices for something that I already have.

Shannna

Quote from: Shanna on September 10, 2016, 06:34:29 PM

Quote from: molc on September 07, 2016, 12:46:45 PM

Quote from: Shanna on September 07, 2016, 12:42:48 PM
...What is at the other end of the cable in terms of you plugging in the RJ11? Have you wired a telephone socket in to the arduino board?...

Exactly that. I have the pin outs written down somewhere, which I worked out by looking at the connector and the phone socket pins REALLY closely :)
I need to document my pin connections for that and the controller cable anyway and save it somewhere, as it's currently in a notebook at home. Poke me to send it to you if I forget.
For fermentation control, I'd just get a BrewPi and not mess around. It cost me ~€100 and has never let me down. I hope to use it for many years to come.

Having a bit of a head scratcher trying to understand the deal with the brewpi. Understand that it can take multiple temperature sensors and that its recommended to use two one for the beer temperature (say in a thermowell in the fermenter) and a second for the ambient temperature inside the fridge. What I am not 100% sure is how the brewpi uses this when you have say a pair of electrical sockets one for the fridge and the other for a tube heater.

The following shows a specialised relay controller that looks like it can switch from one ssr to the other. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2798684/BrewPi-Schematic.png

I have a pair of 3-12 V DC- 30 - 400 AC SSRs, the Raspberry PI, the DS18B20, the power supply and associated wiring. In theory I would only need to buy an Arduino to complete a DIY build. I understand that I can buy the BrewPi with the newer spark processor but even with that I am not entirely clear how to wire up the two SSRs to allow switching between the power for the fridge and the tube heaters. Then I found this http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/forum/index.php?topic=9506.0 & read your remark about it not being well documented :)

Any chance you could redraw your diagram on a bigger scale with some different colors so that my semi frazzled state can process more easily !!!

Shanna

Having looked at your wiring diagram a half a dozen more times (tired from last night :)) I think you might have an error with your neutral and earth lines. Both show a single line feeding a splitter but the two outputs from the neutral splitter go to the socket for the fridge and the two outputs from the earth splitter go the socket for the heater. I would expect that as its a single input source that one neutral output and earth output would go to wire each socket.

For the DC side of the brewpi that feeds the DC power to the SSR how did you connect this up to the brew pi. I assume that ths yere is some cabling that includes a ground and 5V DC? Any photos you could provide would be appreciated. I promise I am sold on the BrewPi now after reading the different reviews but I would still like to understand how it works.

Shanna

Quote from: Shanna on September 10, 2016, 07:15:34 PM
For the DC side of the brewpi that feeds the DC power to the SSR how did you connect this up to the brew pi. I assume that ths yere is some cabling that includes a ground and 5V DC? Any photos you could provide would be appreciated. I promise I am sold on the BrewPi now after reading the different reviews but I would still like to understand how it works.
Shanna

(http://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218025&d=1408159304)

You can substitute 2 SSRs for the relay; pins 5 & 6 to SSR DC+ & return to ground on SSR DC-.

Effectively its a glorified, but very smart STC1000; the 2 temp probes are to manage temp control in ferment chamber so you don't have outside of the FV @ 60C while the beer in the middle of the FV is still playing catch up. Typically you'd set a max temp for the chamber, eg 25C so it stops heating once air temp reaches that (& tops up once it drops) and allows beer to follow. Similarly it would also have the same for a min temp, so you don't end up freezing beer closest to outside of FV and causing the yeast to drop out/stall. The PID manages how fast it slows down the heat/cooling cycle.

You could use a simple dev/project board shield to connect up to the SSRs.

I'll take a pic of the rig later, but basically you have two DC wires per output port (GND and +12V I think). These connect to the + and negative terminals on an SSR  DC side. The brewpi then just fires the outputs as configured.