Anyone I can borrow one from in Galway?
I have one Tom but the battery life isn't great on it. It's a lidl deal wasn't the best one!
Cheers Kev. Just bought a cheapo plug in copy from Woodies. Im sure it'll be handy again in future.
http://www.lidl.ie/cps/rde/xchg/SID-49B99F9D-74E60D98/lidl_ri_ie/hs.xsl/index_29668.htm
Hi Kevco
Is it this one, see link above?
QuoteI have one Tom but the battery life isn't great on it. It's a lidl deal wasn't the best one!
Hi Hop Bomb
Out of curiosity what was the make and the price of the tool you bought from woodies?
Also is it battery powered or wired?
Shanna
QuoteCheers Kev. Just bought a cheapo plug in copy from Woodies. Im sure it'll be handy again in future.
That's the exact one Declan, avoid it. The battery only lasts about 20min max and it overheats.
The accessory kit they sell alongside them is fairly handy though, a good selection of bits and pieces.
Kev
Edit* had a better look at the lidl site and didn't see the kit for it.
I bought the "ROK" kit. 39.99e. Its plug in & comes with 180 bits & bobs. The main thing is you get a pack of 30 or more cutting blades which are 15e to buy on their own. They're perfect for cutting slits in a copper manifold for a mash tun.
Its got a deadly extender type attachment so you can use the drill head without holding the unit. Im impressed. I thought it'd be kinda crappy but its class. This is it here:
http://www.woodiesdiy.com/Product/ROK-182-Piece-Mini-Grinder-Set/18597/1.0.12
Ive got this much done with my manifold so far this eve with it:
(http://i.imgur.com/n6xcr4el.jpg)
Looks great! Is the idea that siphon effect will empty out your dead space without tipping it up?
Cheers! Yip. Should work a lot better than the bazooka tube that was in there. Ive had some mad inconsistencies with my OGs so this + cs mill should put that all to bed.
I tried to stick as closely to John Palmers guide on it as possible.
http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html
QuoteCheers! Yip. Should work a lot better than the bazooka tube that was in there. Ive had some mad inconsistencies with my OGs so this + cs mill should put that all to bed.
I tried to stick as closely to John Palmers guide on it as possible.
http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html
That looks cool! I'm thinking of replacing my qualpex manifold with copper (cos it looks better). Did you just push-fit the solder fittings together?
Good job Tom
I've just ordered a cooler box so will have the have a peek at your mash tun for inspiration!
Think it could even be the same box,
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000G64I38/ref=pe_217191_31005151_M3_dp_1
Yeah just pushed them together. Seems solid & im sure once the 66c mash is in there the copper would expand a wee bit making it that bit tighter?
@Kev - Same as mine only thats a wee bit smaller. Ive the 48qt one. Call up! Il be pottering around tomorrow afternoon if yer off work.
I'll give you a text, I usually wake at around 4pm. Did you get your corneys sorted with co2?
QuoteI'll give you a text, I usually wake at around 4pm. Did you get your corneys sorted with co2?
No not yet but I fear it may be too late. The comments on my score sheet from the comp said it was oxidized :(
Looks like I have a project for Saturday!
This arrived a few minutes ago, €43.06 free delivery!
@Tom, where did you get your copper pipe and bits?
Hi Kev, Nice cooler.
I was looking at these an1d have the xext one up on order (Xtreme one, same capacity, I'm picky)
The lid on your one is not insulated AFAIK,but you should be able to squirt in expanding foam filler.
I reckon punch a series of small breather holes with a nail around the perimeter and fill from the hole on the end.
Another mod I would suggest would be to make hinges from pieces of Plastic milk carton, say 2 x 50mm squared. Use a few small self-tappers to keep them in place.
I got my SS weldless ball valve tap kit in HBW. I got my copper pipe, tees, elbows, brass nipple & braided hose in Walsh's heating & plumbing on tuam rd.
I got two stainless steel jubilee clips in Caulfield's next door to them. They're behind the counter so ask a staff member.
http://goo.gl/maps/J36Z5
The lid is fairly light alright, cheers John some handy tips there. I would never have thought of making a hinge!
Didn't even think of walsh's Tom, they're probably the best prices alright!
Productive day today, finished off my mash tun build.
Costs:
Cooler box €43.00
Plumbing parts €29.00
Total €72.00
Looks great Kev. I finished mine today. The syphon effect is amazing. It leaves hardly anything behind. Looking forward to using it this week sometime.
Cheers Tom
Couple of more bits for it and a HLT and I'm good to go all grain! Looking forward to it now!
The syhpon should see your efficiency issues be put to bed!
Fingers crossed. Started on my integrated sparge system for it last night. I still have to drill the holes & solder it together.
(http://i.imgur.com/u81m6URl.jpg)
wow pretty impressive and loving that but no way of knowing with lid closed you are getting even distribution of water to avoid channelling or permanently maintaining water an inch or 2 above grain bed :(
I can lift the lid & look in :) Only time will tell though. In my defence this sparge design will give an even sprinkle to prevent channeling. I copied this method from others on US forums who claim efficiency in the high 80s. My manifold on the bottom is built using John Palmers plans with 4 bars twice the distance apart & half that distance from the cooler wall. Again to prevent channeling.
Ive had awful efficiency problems up to now so Im sure this will see me right. Il post results once I get a chance to brew with it.
its ok there was no need for a defence ;)
I have exactly the same design and cooler.
My copper feed pipe in the middle comes out at a 15 degree angle so the cooler is just open.
Over a 50-60 min fly sparge I am constantly tweeking the flow of input and output
Temp of my hlt and sparge water is regulated using STC1000 with probe in drip stream of the sparge.
I just drilled a hole in an 80.00e cool box. The defence is warranted as I try and justify this design to myself (and the internet) ;D
I just converted another keg to a HLT. Ive it double insulated with that bubble foil & my dial thermometer should be here soon. I might go electric for the HLT & that'll free up my gas ring for my boiler. (dont feel like buying another ring or moving full kegs of stuff around)
Any links to a decent element for 50L keg HLT? Do they have to be welded?
QuoteI just drilled a hole in an 80.00e cool box. The defence is warranted as I try and justify this design to myself (and the internet) ;D
I just converted another keg to a HLT. Ive it double insulated with that bubble foil & my dial thermometer should be here soon. I might go electric for the HLT & that'll free up my gas ring for my boiler. (dont feel like buying another ring or moving full kegs of stuff around)
Any links to a decent element for 50L keg HLT? Do they have to be welded?
Sorry Plastic fantastic man here, Shanna will mark your card.
Hi Hop bomb,
Check out www.theelectricbrewery.com for links to Amazon and eBay for 5.5kw heating elements. I recently converted a large ss vessel to add one. The conversion uses a large hexagonal nut, large ss washer and orings for as compression fitting. The problem is most of the sites referenced are in the us so I had to get friends and family living in the us to help forward parts on (in hoc to people for years to come :)
Other issue with so large an element is that you just can't plug it in. It requires a dedicated socket and fuse (approx 26 amps). Brother is an electrician so got this sorted eventually. Other option is to use two smaller hearing elements salvaged from kettles or heating elements bought from electrical suppliers. Assume these to be 2kw each and use these two together to heat the water. I have plans to create a wort boiler to do this as I don't think a 5.5kw element is flexible enough to maintain a rolling boil. My plan is to use two 220v scr voltage regulator dimmer switches from eBay to control the elements. Still working on this so won't know how it works for a while yet.
Hope this helps.
Shanna
Quote
Any links to a decent element for 50L keg HLT? Do they have to be welded?
Hi Hop Bomb,
Would you mind posting a link to the dial thermometer you ordered please?
Shanna
Quote
I just converted another keg to a HLT. Ive it double insulated with that bubble foil & my dial thermometer should be here soon.
Cheers for the reply. I wont be using it as a boil kettle. Just to heat strike & sparge water so probably 75c or so. Would I get away with a smaller locally sourced element?
Here is the probe thermometer:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Dial-Analog-Thermometer-Weldless-Kit-2-Probe-0-220-Degrees-Homebrew-Mash-/270963909047?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f16b521b7
Ive got one on my boiler already. Works great. Its got a screw on the back for calibration.
I built one of those mash tuns with a sparge arm fitted into the lid,worked perfectly. What you do need is to know how much hot liquer is flowing from your HLT into the sparge to balance what your drawing off from the mash tun. :)
Thats good to know. Usually for sparging I only add the exact amount of water needed to my HLT so when my HLT hose runs dry Ive added the correct amount. Is this method okay?
yeah but at what rate :( my sparge takes 50-60 mins and I need to regulate the flow into and out of the mash to do that, put a camera in there :)
I can look in anytime & adjust flow out of both HLT & mash with the taps. Ive a gopro camera here but it would fog up in the mash tun ;)
Whatever way works for you. What I used to do is have plenty of water in the HLT and have a sight glass to check what is already in the HLT then open the valve and let the water flow until I transferred what I needed.
Dumping it all in in a couple of mins is batch not fly ;)
QuoteDumping it all in in a couple of mins is batch not fly ;)
Kinda but me flow rate in sort of matched me flow rate out. :)
QuoteQuoteDumping it all in in a couple of mins is batch not fly ;)
Kinda but me flow rate in sort of matched me flow rate out. :)
Fair point and I know when you get to a certain age thats easy to gauge ;)
Hi Hop Bomb,
Probably you could get away with a smaller element as you said you won't be heating the water to boiling point. However a smaller element will take longer to heat the water. Don't underestimate the amount of time taken to get a large amount of water up to 75C. While I could use the 5.5kw for a boiler, without some kind of relay to control it, I felt that it would be too powerful.
I like the idea of being able to heat water for both the strike water for soaking the grain in the mashtun and also for cleaning up afterwards.
Shanna
2 x 2.2 KW kettle elements will work on standard mains, use both to get there, one to maintain, if one fries you always have a backup
Cheers lads.