National Homebrew Club Ireland

So what's the optimum boil, we've done hop cone pics, post a pic or better still use tapatalk to include a vid of how you boil off your 4-5l.

Quote from: CH on October 11, 2015, 10:30:46 PM
how you boil off your 4-5l.

60 min rolling boil in PECO Boiler - that's the usual boil-off volume for me.

As for pic - everyone knows how a PECO boiler looks like, right?

Think he's looming to see what the rolling boil looks like, as the agitation helps with hop utilisation etc.

Mine is currently 2.9/hr, though that should increase soon ;)

Quote from: Bart on October 12, 2015, 04:23:33 PM

Quote from: CH on October 11, 2015, 10:30:46 PM
how you boil off your 4-5l.

60 min rolling boil in PECO Boiler - that's the usual boil-off volume for me.

As for pic - everyone knows how a PECO boiler looks like, right?

Pfft i boil off 11lt/60mins in my Peco you must have a dodgy one Bazz  ;)

Quote from: Greg2013 on October 12, 2015, 05:58:44 PM
Pfft i boil off 11lt/60mins in my Peco you must have a dodgy one Bazz  ;)

That seems very high for a ~30L bucket, are you measuring that as mash in volume compared to into fermenter volume?
Is that both elements on full for whole boil? Or a jet engine?

This is two 2.2kW elements running at 77% power.

https://youtu.be/k3PNc1GdVIY

Running a boil off of about 4L/hr. The reduced power from the has better heat distribution compared to just one on full power.

Quote from: pob on October 12, 2015, 06:19:21 PM

Quote from: Greg2013 on October 12, 2015, 05:58:44 PM
Pfft i boil off 11lt/60mins in my Peco you must have a dodgy one Bazz  ;)

That seems very high for a ~30L bucket, are you measuring that as mash in volume compared to into fermenter volume?
Is that both elements on full for whole boil? Or a jet engine?

Both elements full tilt for the 60mins,i need to get a regulator for both,one element is not enough and two full tilt is too much.  :)

What do you use to regulate the power to your elements Pob ? :)

He's using the Ardbir brew controller

Previously used a Voltage Regulator (J34 Free Shipping AC 220V 3800W SCR Voltage Regulator Dimming Dimmers Speed Controller Thermostat
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-AC-220V-3800W-SCR-Voltage-Regulator-Dimming-Dimmers-Speed-Controller-Thermostat/832315057.html).

Had to change it over between the elements from brew to brew to help keep crud build up on element to a minimum.
I was going to get a 2nd one for other element until I found the ArdBir (does other stuff aswell).

Quote from: pob on October 12, 2015, 07:20:15 PM
Previously used a Voltage Regulator (J34 Free Shipping AC 220V 3800W SCR Voltage Regulator Dimming Dimmers Speed Controller Thermostat
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-AC-220V-3800W-SCR-Voltage-Regulator-Dimming-Dimmers-Speed-Controller-Thermostat/832315057.html).

Had to change it over between the elements from brew to brew to help keep crud build up on element to a minimum.
I was going to get a 2nd one for other element until I found the ArdBir (does other stuff aswell).

That ArdBir looks the business but out of my price range i'm afraid,will order a couple of the cheaper regulators you linked instead,i really need to get that boil under control. :)

Btw Pob just subbed so keep them videos coming eh  ;)

Quote from: pob on October 12, 2015, 07:20:15 PM
Previously used a Voltage Regulator (J34 Free Shipping AC 220V 3800W SCR Voltage Regulator Dimming Dimmers Speed Controller Thermostat
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-AC-220V-3800W-SCR-Voltage-Regulator-Dimming-Dimmers-Speed-Controller-Thermostat/832315057.html).

Had to change it over between the elements from brew to brew to help keep crud build up on element to a minimum.
I was going to get a 2nd one for other element until I found the ArdBir (does other stuff aswell).

That's what I use. Great for dialling in a nice rolling boil.

Any other vids of boils? And I don't mean this variety ;), spoiler alert not to be looked at after recently eating

http://youtu.be/fpGgW-Gjn_E

Jasus that's disgusting,and I watched it all :'(

Oh ya dirty bastard.

Potato salad for lunch it is so :)

Here's my rolling boil - keggle with 2.8kw element and insulation ftw :D

Also, yet again learned my lesson about putting hops into a hop bag - I clogged the damn valve and couldn't whirlpool or use my plate chiller :( Really need to make a hop spider and use it in future.

https://youtu.be/OYjv5vAXg8k

Nice boil
Posted a few times about hop cones and chuggers and why I only use pellet ;)
I thought it was a right laugh watching them travel through the silicone tubing until they blocked the pump
Leaf now I just put in a weighed down bag between elements so that there is a good flow across them
Plate chillers cold break and pellets I'm still not convinced about :(

Yup, next brew I'm rebuilding the diptube to be a side pickup, as right now the flow rate gets limited by the filtering of the cold break and hops. You can't cool or whirlpool if nothing is flowing. The hop spider will keep the hops out of the way, not to mention make it a hell of a lot easier to clean after the boil. Lifting a keggle to clean it is no fun.

If that clogs the plate chiller, then I'll just build a CFC and sell on the plate chiller and lauterhexe to someone with a setup it suits.

At least at this point, it's just minor tweaks. The HLT worked a dream and the boil on the BK was a piece of cake this time.

Using a berco boiler I boil off 6.5ltr/hr.
Works grand for me! I'm using hop bags with leaf and or hop pellets.

That's on the high side what's your initial volume?

26.5ltrs
I have it at full tilt with the lid off.
I never tried reducing the heater setting once it started to boil.

We used to boil stout for minimum 45 minutes and 10% minimum boil off, ie if OG = 1.065 then desired Final Gravity post boil = 1.0715 (65 plus 10% of 65 = 65 +6.5 =71.5) (I know that this value varies due to kettle design but gives you a rough value to aim at)
I reckon gravity readings are a more accurate way of measuring for boil off rate rather than volume, as the volume increases with heat, plus with steam and foam it can be difficult to see the markings inside the kettle. I dont use a sight glass for hygienic reasons, I see them as a potential site for infection due to the difficulty in cleaning them.
One interesting observation was that during the summer the boil used to take a good bit longer than the winter due to atmospheric pressure, in the winter the boil time would be closer to the 45 min but in the summer would be around 60 mins

Fascinating stuff!
On the sight glass every second boil I run the sight glass brush through it just to clean off the scale or any crud,  there is no possibility of infection as with boiled wort in it for at least an hour everything is sterile, I'll measure the temp in mine next time.

Look like Santy is Googling me up a "Digital Anemometer"

Must keep track of air pressure now!

That or just keep checking with your refractometer until you get the desired boil off
You would also be amazed at the difference barometric pressure makes to the Head Height in the final beer.

Look like Santy is Googling me up a "Digital AnemometerBarometer"
[edit: silly bugger]

Must keep track of air pressure now!

Suppose wind speed blowing over the kettle outdoors would remove the hot staeam molecules quicker and hence speed up evaporation - need both then :)

Also the humidity of the surounding air will affect boil of rates as well!

In fact come to think of it a digital weather station would do the job nicely on brew day. More data to log over the boil proces.

75l of 1078 being done by 2x2.7kw

https://vimeo.com/145739389 (https://vimeo.com/145739389)

Pushing the limits of the kettle there.

Always ;)
Whirlpool stops the boil over
She still boils down to 62 after 60 

Good thing your boiling outside. Your walls would be bleeding LME if you were inside.

Can always get a small jet engine to help with that... ;)

That wouldn't work, I have small children :)

Quote from: CH on November 15, 2015, 11:22:28 AM
That wouldn't work, I have small children :)

Small children= Brew Slaves  ;D