National Homebrew Club Ireland

Finally getting around to sorting out my build
I picked up this on adverts, I may cover the shelf with plexiglass and mount the instrumentation and switches in it.
Next stop Brew Pi for stainless fittings, I ordered some 3/4" to 1/2" reducers from Ali Express for the centre inlets of the Chuggers, but the machining on them  was quite poor, with a very rough internal surface. I'm presuming Brew Pi fittings are of a higher standard?
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/15/defade0ab188459d8892abc44882004a.jpg)

Cool.. keep the pics coming, I'm modifying/upgrading my own rig so nice to watch others ideas😄

Yep love threads like this.
On the reducers do you need them as you want to "flood" the chugger with a 3/4 feed? This should avoid potential cavitation max your flow and avoid requirement of tap on exit.
What's the ID on that 3/4 head?

Brewpi is standardised on 1/2" so think you'll need a reducer somewhere else. The camlocks are finished stainless but the rest of the fittings are the usual rough finish you get.

CH, The centre inlet Chuggers have a 3/4" inlet ( its 3/4" NPS or Garden Hose Thread) I bought the reducers to adapt them to  1/2"  fittings which will be used throughout the rest of the kit.
I'm planning on the kit running off a 32amp supply. I have a cooker supply in my kitchen which I can piggy-back out the back of the box to give me a 32 amp supply on my decking. That way I can brew outside in the fine weather or in the brew shed for the more typical Irish weather.
To be different I plan on an electrical RIMS but will reduce the voltage to the low density element to eliminate wort scorching by either using a 110 volt work transformer or a Variac if I can find one at the right price

Quote from: Sorcerers Apprentice on November 15, 2015, 04:40:49 PM
To be different I plan on an electrical RIMS but will reduce the voltage to the low density element to eliminate wort scorching by either using a 110 volt work transformer or a Variac if I can find one at the right price

you'll need an ArdBir (http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/forum/index.php/topic,10671.0.html) so, let it run the element on PWM - it controls heat, pumps, etc; it's great & you'll love it ;) probably same cost as Variac but does so much more for brewing.

Thanks pob, I'll have a good look at it

How much did you pick that workbench up for? I'm in the market for something similar.

The bore on the outlet of the chuggers is smaller than 1/2" anyway on my inline ones. I only spotted it recently. Don't know if the centre feed is the same?

Craiclad I paid €150 I had a local guy make up a mild steel stand for a stainless sink and it cist me €100 so I reckoned €150 was a bargain for stainless.
Imark, the centre inlet are different from the inline pumps in that the inline have two 1/2" connections but the centre inlet have a 3/4 inlet and 1/2" outlet

Wow, €150 does seem like a steel. Any clue where I could pick up something similar?

I searched Adverts.ie with "Stainless Table"
Don't know if this one is still available, but it might suit ?
http://www.adverts.ie/6131901

Quote from: pob on November 15, 2015, 05:01:23 PM

Quote from: Sorcerers Apprentice on November 15, 2015, 04:40:49 PM
To be different I plan on an electrical RIMS but will reduce the voltage to the low density element to eliminate wort scorching by either using a 110 volt work transformer or a Variac if I can find one at the right price

you'll need an ArdBir (http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/forum/index.php/topic,10671.0.html) so, let it run the element on PWM - it controls heat, pumps, etc; it's great & you'll love it ;) probably same cost as Variac but does so much more for brewing.

Thanks POB I've ordered one this evening €99 plus €18 shipping and a fiver for the cause :-)
https://openardbir.ecwid.com/#!/Ardbir-KIT-all-in-one-board-+-otional-components/p/46976358/category=12201433

I saw on Facebook that they're also giving the nano pcv as a free gift if you order atm. Maybe check to make sure you get that, as the new board has a lot more connections

Thanks molc I've sent them an email to confirm the Nano PCB is included

Curious to see the Nano when it arrives.

They replied to my email last night, and confirmed that the Nano PCB is included

I cracked and just did the same. Automatic start is the feature that finally sold me. Having the hlt turn on and come to temperature before I start brewing will save a whole chunk of time on brew day.
Now to just get a box to hold everything :)

Quote from: molc on November 23, 2015, 08:34:13 AM
I cracked and just did the same. Automatic start is the feature that finally sold me. Having the hlt turn on and come to temperature before I start brewing will save a whole chunk of time on brew day.
Now to just get a box to hold everything :)

:D

I've done 3 BIAB brews with it & love it. Just need to get my pump set up next.

Only downside is, when running 2 x 2.2kW elements, house lights may flicker, as PWM switching 4.4kW on/off very quickly upsets it ???.

The 3D printed front panel is due to be delivered this afternoon.
I hit Aliexpress yesterday for the Black Friday discount (11% when using the ap ) on all the stainless the fittings and toys, and they got back to me this morning with the combined shipping discount.
My problem now is that my better half has a business in the local village and the postman drops off my parcels there (He says in case there's no one home at the house)...Doh!! I'd better own up in advance 😁

Or get to postie first

I was going to report him to Aliexpress as he's badly effecting their profits :-)
Sometimes I have to ask my wife, "You haven't seen a 25kg bag of malt around have you? "
And most likely she says "is that the big parcel that's been lying in the boot of my car all week? The post man left it in last Tuesday and it's been there since 😠

Hehe, not exactly a small package that can be hidden away.

Can't wait to see the build as it goes. Have a spare cooker circuit at home as well in the brew room, so very interested in how you do that wiring.

Looks like there will be a few electric brewery's coming on line in the next few months. As much as I love the look of the displays and the automation of it all I'll be going for the turn the switch and program the pids manually. Lots of lights and buzzers. Think I have most of the electronics ordered. Just have to play the long wait game now for mr Ali to deliver from China.
I picked up a 15L "ham pot" on TESCO the other day that I'll be using as as my hlt for herms. It's allluminin and should do the job.
Pids , timers , leds , switched relays, temp probes and connectors all on the way. Pick up a junction box for housing in the new year and start building then. It's become a bit of an obsession.

Now when it comes to parcels delivered to the house (i.e. too big or may be due customs duties and so can't risk Parcel Motel), I just say "No, its NOT more stuff for my hobies, its brewing ingredients" i.e.Consumables.

With that promise the Mrs just says "oh looking forward to drinking those in a bit" (The machine tools !! Whhooo HOO Haaaa!)

DHL delivered today, so I bypassed the awkward confession 😅 but got caught for €96 duty 😈
Beware Sunglasses warning!!
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/07/68858a3bb15e5dba04f07fb41199a4d0.jpg)

What's the big pipe with the triclover fittings? Counterflow chiller of doom?

It's a 2" RIMS with an inline thermometer, the original came with hose barbs but I added 2 triclamp x camlock fittings

Check your camlock fittings work.

I bought some recently that were not able to lock. Awaiting replacement.

I've checked a few and some are a bit tight but I presume will loosen up with use

Links to some of the goodies:
Electric 2" Tri Clover Compatible RIMS Tube Assembl w/ Heating Element Adapter, RIMS Tubes,Electric brewing Hardware
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Electric-2-Tri-Clover-Compatible-RIMS-Tube-Assembl-w-Heating-Element-Adapter-RIMS-Tubes-Electric-brewing/32443474250.html
(from AliExpress Android)
In-line Thermometer with Stainless Camlock Quick Disconnect, bi-metal thermometer, 1/2"
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/In-line-Thermometer-with-Stainless-Camlock-Quick-Disconnect-bi-metal-thermometer-1-2/1564173716.html
(from AliExpress Android)

Stainless in-line Oxygenation Assembly, Kegging Homebrew, 2.0 Micron Oxygenation Stone, 1.2"MPT X 1/2"Barb Fittings
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Stainless-in-line-Oxygenation-Assembly-Kegging-Homebrew-2-0-Micron-Oxygenation-Stone-1-2-MPT-X/1564241492.html
(from AliExpress Android)

Stainless Steel 304 Counterflow Wort Chiller, Brewing Equipment, Garden Hose Fittings
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Stainless-Steel-304-Counterflow-Wort-Chiller-Brewing-Equipment-Garden-Hose-Fittings/1553652140.html
(from AliExpress Android)
Plus the usual array of Tees, valves, nipples, camlock etc

What made you go for RIMS instead of HERMS.

Quote from: Sorcerers Apprentice on December 07, 2015, 01:32:42 PM
I've checked a few and some are a bit tight but I presume will loosen up with use

If they close at all you're probably fine. Mine wouldn't close as the lip on the top of the fitting was too deep by a few mm.

Cheers for posting the links

Quote from: DEMPSEY on December 07, 2015, 02:46:31 PM
What made you go for RIMS instead of HERMS.

Brian with risk of being burnt for heresy I don't really believe all the jargon on wort scorching. My background is electrical and it seems the logical option for me.  I have a low density element 4.5kW and I can run it through a 110v transformer which will reduce the power to 1/4 ie 1.125kW which will effectively make the element ultra low density. Grainfather and Braumeister are electrical RIMS systems and I haven't read any complaints re  wort scorching. Anyway I could be proven wrong but I'll give it a shot anyway

Aah heresy is overreated unless your going to be the one getting burned :P. Just curious on your thought process that had you choose RIMS. I went for HERMS because I prefer my wort not to be touching a heat element hence my attempts (failed) to have my first element outside my boil kettle and fitted underneath the Kettle.

We Homebrewers are all close to God because he loves a tryer :-*

The accusers will all have been at the Ergot 😆

With all the electric breweries getting built it great to see someone going down the RIMS rout.
Looking forward to seeing how it goes.

Only reason I went herms is because I needed sparge water from a hlt. Might as well have a coil in there regulating the wort temp while I'm at it. :)

You could potentially use the RIMS tube to heat the HLT by circulating the water through it, later using it for maintaining wort temperature/step mashes and later again heating the spare water just by swapping hoses around

Quote from: Sorcerers Apprentice on December 08, 2015, 08:57:17 AM
You could potentially use the RIMS tube to heat the HLT by circulating the water through it, later using it for maintaining wort temperature/step mashes and later again heating the spare water just by swapping hoses around

Only problem I can see there is the element in the rims has wort on it so the water going into the HLT would have a small amount of wort wash into it :-\

When it comes to good brewing practices think of the Menopause - Plenty of Hot Flushes 😈. By right all lines and hoses which contained wort should be flushed out with hot water. That way there are less losses. In professional terms it's called a "push out" . In hard plumbed systems you might need sight glasses but with Silicone hoses it's easy to flush the wort to the Mash Vessel or Kettle, and stop the pump at the water/wort interface to prevent diluting the wort too much.
It's the same for Herms, by right the herms coil should be flushed out by sparging through the Herms coil. This is especially important for those guys who use an immersion chiller as a herms coil, because the immersion coil is not self draining. You could easily forget and end up with putrid wort in there at the next brew, and later wonder where the infection came from. This is an ideal source of Butyric infection. Not my favorite beer flaw, I seem to be extra sensitive to vomit flavoured beer 😷

By the same token I have a seperate element in the HLT, but in the event of a failure I could use the RIMS as back up for either the HLT or the Boil Kettle. Large Professional Kettles have an external heater called a Calandria the wort is pumped through the steam heated heat exchanger and pumped back under pressure to the underneath of an inverted cone spreader known as a China man's hat

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/08/ce31e32066968f5f3e0c3ab9cbc75f7c.jpg)
A typical Calandria

These element covers arrived today from Bobby in Brewhardware.com I ordered them on the 12th of this month so just over a week delivery time, which is excellent. I'm going to get some 1" stainless sockets welded onto the kegs to take the elements rather than go with locknuts. I will cut the sockets to length so that the back of the thread of the element will be flush with the end of the socket, to avoid hiding places for bugs.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotpod-ewl.htm

did you get hit with any duty tax's on them coming from the US.

No posted via usps rather than FedEx or DHL

It can be particularly maddening to have to pay DHL or FedEx their collection fee plus vat, in addition to the duty and vat charged on the goods, that's why where possible I always opt for the postal option rather than courier.

Quote from: pob on November 23, 2015, 09:42:29 AM

Quote from: molc on November 23, 2015, 08:34:13 AM
I cracked and just did the same. Automatic start is the feature that finally sold me. Having the hlt turn on and come to temperature before I start brewing will save a whole chunk of time on brew day.
Now to just get a box to hold everything :)

:D

I've done 3 BIAB brews with it & love it. Just need to get my pump set up next.

Only downside is, when running 2 x 2.2kW elements, house lights may flicker, as PWM switching 4.4kW on/off very quickly upsets it ???.

Did you ever sort this out? Apparently a zero crossing ssr should help eliminate the flickering as it only switches when the sine wave is at zero?

Quote from: Sorcerers Apprentice on December 26, 2015, 02:06:12 PM
Did you ever sort this out? Apparently a zero crossing ssr should help eliminate the flickering as it only switches when the sine wave is at zero?

On the shopping list. I'm guessing the €3 Ali/Chinese ones may not be classed as that (or indeed of any quality)

Flickering wasn't really an issue in the shed, more so if you were using inside/in the kitchen on an older circuit (I leant it to someone to try).

What's a zero crossing SSR look like?

high voltage single phase solid state relay  SSR 80amp 3-32VDC to 90-480VAC Zero crossing basic type SSR/ ZG3NC-380B
http://s.aliexpress.com/uAbAZ3EV
(from AliExpress Android)

There are a number of types of ssr, random switching which operate at random points in the AC cycle. There are zero crossing ssrs which only switch on at the zero point on the sine wave they help eliminate flickering in lighting circuits near to where the ssr is located when switching large loads. Another type is peak wave switching which only switch on at the Peak voltage of the sine wave, these are used for switching inductive loads like transformers. So if I need to use a step down transformer to change the voltage to the rims element to 110 volt thus quartering the load (ie 5.5kw becomes 5.5÷4 = 1.4 kw ) then I will need to use one of these for the rims element and a zero crossing ssr for the Boil Kettle element as the Ardbir uses pulse width modulation to control the Boil rather than pid. If this makes sense?
Here's a link to info on peak wave switching ssr
http://www.ecdcontrols.com/electrical-components.1118/solid-state-relay-1-phase-peak-switching.aspx

I connected up the waste water pipe to the shed yesterday, hoping to stick the water supply in today.
The Neutrik sockets and plug tops arrived today cheers to Oz brewer for the contact
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/forum/index.php?topic=5267.msg120315#msg120315

Just back from the hols in the States. I ordered some stainless goodies from Brewing Hardware to be delivered to my hotel, plus a spare element and Barkeepers Friend from home depot, (When I later looked at the receipt they had only charged me 1 cent for the element, they must have made a mistake inputting the price on the system ) I also bought a BCS controller and had it delivered to the hotel also. I ordered the bits online the Thursday before I arrived and they were delivered by Wednesday the following week.
The BCS controller only comes with a 110 volt power supply, I tried it on 230v in case it was dual voltage...... it wasn't. I picked up a replacement 6v DC 1amp supply in Maplins for under €20
I need to get a few bob together now and then organise the welding of the keggles and brackets/control panel onto the stainless table.

Who is doing the welding,is it the Lucan twins ;)

This guy, he knows how to hygienically weld stainless.
http://www.adverts.ie/8940661