Just curious how most people grounding their steel kettles?
I've a 3kW weldless element from brewbuilder and a 50l steel kettle. I've a 32.5mm metal punch on the way and would like to fit the element into my HLT this weekend but want to make sure I do this safely.
Some forums were suggesting using one plug for the element itself, and then fitting a steel nut & bolt above the water line and running another earth wire back to a second plug/socket. Is this separation necessary or can you run the earth back to the first plug? Surely as long as it's all earthed (through 1 plug, 2 plugs or otherwise) it should be ok or am I missing something?
I use this.....
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotpod-ewl.htm
That looks similar as the brewbuilder one comes with a metal shroud.
https://www.brewbuilder.co.uk/3kw-lwd-elements.html (https://www.brewbuilder.co.uk/3kw-lwd-elements.html)
But the kettle will be isolated from the shroud by an o-ring as it's weldless. And I'm not even sure if the shroud will have a ground connection. So would the kettle need a direct connection to ground of its own - hence my thinking on the nut/bolt/earth above?
The one I posted has a lug on the inside that you connect the ground wore to. It's up against the kettle wall so grounds the lot.
As long as you use a stainless washer and nut on the back, its earthed.
I think this is a really good question to ask. And it's one all of us electrical brewers should all think about.
I'm using a StillDragon Element Guard kit to plug my element into a triclamp aperture in the kettle (aka Bergland Handels pot).
https://www.stilldragon.eu/en/adapters/11-element-guard-kit.html
For a moment there, I was thinking that the silicone gasket would insulate the element guard from the pot.
Of course, the triclamp which clamps the element guard to the pot will connect both - but is it a connection we can depend on??? Can we trust our lives to an external clamp making a good electrical connection from element to pot??
It may well be a very good idea to consider having a separate solid earth connection to the kettle itself. This is the bit of metal that we will touch during the brewday. This is the metal we need protection on. The element is irrelevant.
I'm thinking I might well make another plug-in connector which earths the pot directly. No dependancy on triclamps or element guards or whatnot. It's probably costs about €10. I got these great metal clamps down the army surplus store for around €1.50 a pop. I could easily run an earth wire back to the supply box to provide an independent earth to the kettle.
Liking that thought...
You really don't have to worry about grounding if you assemble your element correctly. All the stainless consumer electric kettles in the shops are grounded the same way. The best connection is the nut you tighten with a spanner or C spanner.
The only thing that I see needing a strip down and clean now and then are the kettles with steel nuts as opposed to stainless due to rust, but even a rusty nut will still conduct somewhat.
Now if you want to extra safe, then go for it. Im just saying loike.
(http://s31.postimg.org/rn6w2dl4r/20160425_220816.jpg)
Quote from: Motorbikeman on April 25, 2016, 09:43:51 PM
As long as you use a stainless washer and nut on the back, its earthed.
The stainless washers are water tight then? Since it's weldless, in my head I'd assumed it would be the red silicon type o-rings. If stainless then problem solved?
Quote from: SkiBeagle on April 25, 2016, 09:52:11 PM
For a moment there, I was thinking that the silicone gasket would insulate the element guard from the pot.
That was my train of thought.
Quote from: SkiBeagle on April 25, 2016, 09:52:11 PM
I could easily run an earth wire back to the supply box to provide an independent earth to the kettle.
Seen a thread on one of the uk forums that suggested going back to a second ground pin. Was planning on drilling a nut/bolt into the kettle above the water level and back to the spare plug but wondered was it sensible or overkill.
You only need the rubber washers on the inside, the metal washer should be on the outside.
As the nut will tighten the metal nut to the washer and then to the vessel, you're grounded perfectly. If you don't have any washer on the nut side, you are still good. Don't use PTFE tape on the element.
I found even if you have a good seal with a rubber washer on the outside of the vessel, it still leaks through the threads eventually .
So using a seal on the outside does little good anyway.
In my keggle build I used these banana plugs and sockets, they are incredibly cheap for something which can save your life. I looped an earth connection to these from each kettle connector.
http://dsmcz.com/presta/en/banana/3565-banana-plug-4mm-green.html
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/3fea359659d27310abfb166d572a9018.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/96f477db63cbd68737e18a7a840d5ce1.jpg)
Edit: If you are a bit heavy handed there are all brass options available or you can just install the banana socket and connect the earth wire directly as the socket has a knurled nut which can be opened to allow a wire or spade connection to be slipped under it, and the it can ve tightened down into the wire/spade
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I punched a 32.5mm hole and used the (cheap rubbish) washer on the inside for a first attempt. The water test failed miserably.
In the attached pic the Electric Brewery guy show the o-ring on the outside, surrounded by a steel washer to make the electrical connection.
I think this might solve the problem of water drawing through the threads.
I still like the idea of a direct earth on a banana plug or similar but I think I'll try this config to solve the leaking.
Quote from: Motorbikeman on April 25, 2016, 10:30:46 PM
Don't use PTFE tape on the element.
I presume PTFE is not heat tolerant. Is there anything that can be used instead that's not going to release toxins at high temps?
I forgot to add that Maplin carry banana plugs in case you're in a hurry to get some
http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=4mm%20banana%20plugs
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PTFE tape easily good to 200 depending on the brand and virgin product is food approved by default and inert.
The tape may have been extruded with fillers like fine particle talc but if its plumbers tape you are ok.
Cheers CH, this looks like just the job
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ptfe-tapes/0231964/ (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ptfe-tapes/0231964/)
Edit..... I see you choose a different type of element to me with the nut on the inside.
The reason I voted against ptfe is I don't need it.
All sealing is done on the inside like this. Silicone seals.
(http://s32.postimg.org/xenh1nbyt/P1020253.jpg)
Quote from: Ciaran on April 29, 2016, 02:28:54 PM
Cheers CH, this looks like just the job
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ptfe-tapes/0231964/ (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ptfe-tapes/0231964/)
Any builders/plumbers supply will have the same thing for 30c