I've come across an article suggesting mixing in 3/4 of the extract after flameout. I know some basic kits don't require boiling the extract at all and simply diluting. Has anyone tried both and noticed anything different to taste?
I've tried using extract straight into the fermenter and not noticed any difference.
QuoteI've tried using extract straight into the fermenter and not noticed any difference.
+1
Beersmith have a nice article on late malt additions
here (http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/02/20/better-beer-with-late-malt-extract-additions/) too.
Adding 3/4 of the extract after flameout is just a general rule of course, and an approach that has worked well for me is to add enough malt to the kettle to give a boiling wort of 1.020. Any brewing software will help you calculate how much this will be, depending on your total boil volume and malt type.
A gravity of 1.020 in the kettle gives a fairly efficient level of hop utilisation too (remember, hop utilisation reduces with higher gravities), allowing you to easily hit your target IBUs. I add the remainder of the malt at flameout, although some brewers add with 15mins left in order to sanitise the malt.
I find I'm getting a slightly cleaner taste using this approach, but others may have different experiences.
This is something we at HomeBrewWest are very interested in. We'd happily add a case of 6 by 1.5 Kg LME cans for free to a few orders if a few of you were prepared to run a few tests.
What we are hoping to get out of it is a proven technique to make top notch extract brews using standard kitchenware . . . as in a smaller pots.
I don't want to ruin this thread, so PM me if interested.
Quote from: Parky on June 13, 2016, 02:28:32 PM
QuoteI've tried using extract straight into the fermenter and not noticed any difference.
+1
Beersmith have a nice article on late malt additions here (http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/02/20/better-beer-with-late-malt-extract-additions/) too.
Adding 3/4 of the extract after flameout is just a general rule of course, and an approach that has worked well for me is to add enough malt to the kettle to give a boiling wort of 1.020. Any brewing software will help you calculate how much this will be, depending on your total boil volume and malt type.
A gravity of 1.020 in the kettle gives a fairly efficient level of hop utilisation too (remember, hop utilisation reduces with higher gravities), allowing you to easily hit your target IBUs. I add the remainder of the malt at flameout, although some brewers add with 15mins left in order to sanitise the malt.
I find I'm getting a slightly cleaner taste using this approach, but others may have different experiences.
This is great information, thanks!
I've always had issues getting the most from hops and I reckon this might be the reason.