Anyone want to give a review or opinions on these?
I am considering one for myself.
I got the version one. I'm delighted with it. Simple to use, decent quality. I got it for the lower price and to be honest you couldn't make one for near the price. Brew day is easier by about 2 hours. Clean up is handy too as no separate mash run etc to clean.
+1 ,
It makes for a very easy brew day compared to using my old Igloo cooler and boiler. Mash efficiency is better too, according to Beersmith I got 90% mash efficiency on my last brew compared to the 78% I was getting on my old system.
The three different heat settings are ideal:
The 2500w setting will get you up to strike temp relatively quickly, I haven't timed it but I'd say half an hour or so.
The 700w setting maintains your mash temp very well but I noticed that it can take about 10 minutes or so to settle so you can see the temp changing plus or minus a degree for a time. A lagging jacket would probably eliminate this.
The 1800w setting maintains a perfect rolling boil.
The control panel works perfectly, setting timers and temperatures is very easy, so if you wanted to do a 10 minute mash out at 75 degrees it will ramp up to that temp for you and switch itself off after the 10 minutes.
Sparging is easy, just lift the mash basket out of the boiler and rest it on the support bolts to drain then add your sparge water on top and let it do its thing for an hour or so.
All in all delighted with mine as well and would definitely recommend it.
does it handle the capasidy for a 90 min boil and still produce 5 gallons ?
I'm thinking of one myself too. I'd love to see some pics. Could you use the hop spiders from the recent group buy in it. Or do you need it?
Come on lads somebody post pics of a brewday💁♂️
I've done 3 brews on it. Very happy with it. Still can't resist a bit of CH-style fettling to improve it. Was probably a bit too much in learning mode initially to think about a photoshoot. First 2 times, I was boiling outside the backdoor as usual. 3rd time, I just tried boiling inside in the kitchen, with a couple of windows cracked. That worked out great. Close to the sink. No need for extension cables and long hoses. Very tidy. I found that I can get a gentle boil with the 700W setting. 1800W gets a very vigorous boil. It's one downside - choice between a simmer or Old Faithful. With an SSR instead of a relay, you could get a nice range of boil vigour. I use the 2500W setting for ramping - great for fast step-ups in a step mash. I measured the temperature of the boiler floor with a thermapen and about 1 cm of water. The floor temp does not exceed 100C - so I don't think wort scorching will be an issue even at 2500W, as long as you have good recirculation. I'll try it again with sugar solution to see if I can see any evidence of scorching. No sign in the beer.
Hoping to brew next weekend and I'll take some photos, now that I'm more settled on how to use it.
@Fal: you can use the GB hop spider. I just hang it off the malt pipe by one of the arms, so I can put the lid on if I want to. I use the malt pipe during the boil to gather hot/cold break. The malt pipe isn't fine enough for pellet hops which I use, but might work with leaf hops. When chilling, I turn on the pump and direct the wort into the hop spider to enhance utilisation, and also to act as a better break filter.
@Motorbikeman: capacity to the Max line is 30L with about 40mm to the top. 27L is probably a realistic pre-boil volume, or else you may get boilover or splashing. No problem getting either 19L/5USG or 23L/5UKG with some to spare after the boil. And you can always top up with boiling water if you're boil is too vigorous. I've tended to use the 700W setting since I find that gives a nice simmer, maybe boiling off a litre or so. The actual power may vary from unit to unit depending on the elements. I measured the resistance of the elements, and mine produces 748W and 1781W at 230Vac. One thing I do recommend a some anti-foam (http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/antifoam-vinoferm-100-ml-p-1597.html or equivalent). It really cuts down on boilovers and then drops out of the beer. I think this is important with the Bulldog - you don't want hot sticky wort pouring down the outside towards the electrics down at the bottom.
And as auralabuse and Damofto said, it's really easy to set up, use and clean up afterwards.
Quote from: SkiBeagle on September 18, 2016, 07:14:05 PM
Still can't resist a bit of CH-style fettling to improve it.
Errr thanks I think ;D ;D
Re; Wort Scorching:
You cannot scorch water! Water boils at 100C and so with enough water above the elements or the bottom of the boiler (with a under mounted heating element) you cannot exceed 100C. The water cools the element.
Now if its a wort at say 1.070 the the sugars will raise the boiling point temp to about 103C - but with enough flow/movement you will not scorch anything.
Now add hops and break material (and no stirring) and you will get a layer of crud settling onto the hot elements/bottom of boiler. This sticks, insulates the elements from the cooling action of the wort and so the element temperature starts to rise!
You now have a vicious circle of scorching!
True, indeed, Will! But I just wanted to measure the temperature of the vessel bottom with very little water absorbing heat from the element. Idea was to see how much the 2500W was getting spread around. I was hoping to see an aluminium heat spreader, but what we have is a cemented element onto the bottom of a steel pot. I wanted to see how effective this design is at moving watts around the bottom of the pot. Even with just water, the steel was ~100C. If there was a real local hotspot, it would rise above 100. So it looks like the element design is good enough to spread the heat.
With a step mash, it's mainly sugary water we're dealing with. 2500W did not seem to be a problem. For the boil, I found that 700W-1800W was more than enough. That's when we'd have to deal with sugars/hops/all_the_rest.
For mashing, it seemed like 2500W is not a problem. I wouldn't suggest that for the boil for exactly the reasons you describe. During the mash, we have pumped circulation. During the boil, we may not, and that would cause all the problems you mention.
I'm critiquing this design for not having an AL spreader, but it doesn't seem to be a problem.
Thanks for a great word!
Now, even my wife knows the difference.
Pfaffing around = investing energy into something that makes no difference at all.
Fettling = imperceptibly improving life on earth using engineering skills! :)
was there much hassle dialing in beer smith to you new machine?
I just set up a new equipment profile in BS with a packaging volume of 19L to fill a keg. The main variables I still haven't dialled in properly are boil-off percentage and amount left in the kettle. I'll be paying more attention to these next day. I use a home-cooked spreadsheet based on Kai Troester's batch-sparge calculator to help figure out what the SG will be if I do Sparge, Mash dilution or No-sparge. With 4kg of grain:
Sparge (20L + 8.2L sparge): 1049.
Mash dilution (20L + 8.2L dilution): 1040
No-sparge (20L + 8.2L post-mash kettle top-up): 1036.
Last time, I tried a full-volume mash. It took a very long time to convert (~90 mins mash) though it did eventually reach target 1040, same as a mash dilution. In future, I'll stick with 16L-20L mash volume. Faster ramp-ups, faster mashing.
Thanks for the feedback on this lads. I placed on order for version 2 last night.
They sound like a great piece of kit. Anyone fancy doing up a review with pictures for the front page?
Is there space in the skirt to fit a regulator for the boil as that or a pid would be a great improvement to regulate the boil
For anyone using Beersmith - BIAB profile is recommended for Braumeister - not a million miles away.
i might take the plunge and book one for christmas. Thanks for the info. Keep it coming..
At points I wonder why I didn't just buy one of these instead of the money I'm putting into a three vessel design. :( I keep saying to myself it will be worth it.
Quote from: dcalnan on September 19, 2016, 04:24:10 PM
At points I wonder why I didn't just buy one of these instead of the money I'm putting into a three vessel design. :( I keep saying to myself it will be worth it.
Something similar. Was just after taking delivery of a ss element, drill bits, pid, SSR, probe etc for a build when the V1 was unveiled by hbw for nearly the same money as I spent just getting the bits and bobs.
But at least I'll have some comfort in the fact, that if the temp overshoots for the strike temp, or a leak developes, I would know that I f'ed it up. And it will bring me some degree of annoyance, to know that I could have avoided all the hassle!
And seems like a good idea of CH's to wire in a ssr (perhaps a variable voltage ssr, which can be controlled with a simple potentiometer) in series with the larger element to control the boil. - would be nearly worth getting one to try! ( in that case-Anyone for a hardly used 3kw ss element, pid, pt100 probe etc ?)
There is plenty of room in the skirt - from memory, I'd say 10cm or more. And the power lines are wired with quick disconnects, so very easy to intercept or add another circuit. Was thinking along the same lines. Could put an SSR on the 1800W element and use that with a PID/Pi/ArdBir to precisely control the boil. I'll be looking at the boil vigour more closely next brew to see whether it is really necessary. I'd like a bit more than the 700W and a lot less than the 1800W. Goldilocks would understand! A jacket might work with 700W. I'll try that next.
One of the lads in the brew club got a v1, he hasn't brewed his first solo batch yet but when he does it will be an easy straight to all grain brew for him. No messin with orings and Ptfe tape, questionable electrics etc. I got to see his and it is a great piece of kit, and it's not too far off a grainfather. If I hadn't built my own I would definitely buy this.
Quote from: irish_goat on September 19, 2016, 10:41:20 AM
They sound like a great piece of kit. Anyone fancy doing up a review with pictures for the front page?
I might be able to do a brew on Sunday if so I will take pics and do a bit of a review, how do we do it, just Microsoft Word or something?
Hmmm, I have an ardbir sitting in a press, was ready for a "project". Also got a few ssr's. I will watch this thread with interest to see if they can be integrated for a bit more automation
Quote from: auralabuse on September 19, 2016, 09:16:34 PM
Hmmm, I have an ardbir sitting in a press, was ready for a "project". Also got a few ssr's. I will watch this thread with interest to see if they can be integrated for a bit more automation
This would work perfectly with an ardbir or craftbeerpi.
Damn you Darren, and here was I thinking I'm finished tinkering around with shit
Quote from: auralabuse on September 20, 2016, 04:26:51 PM
Damn you Darren, and here was I thinking I'm finished tinkering around with shit
You're never finished

it's the hobby that keeps on given
Has anyone got any real life pics or vids yet?
Any quality issues they would like to share?
Can a jacket be purchased?
Thanks. Ken
I didn't get a chance to brew with it over the last couple of weeks but I am planning to do so this weekend, i will take plenty of pics if I do. I think I have it dialled in on Beersmith now as well, the next brewday will tell.
I haven't seen any jackets for them but I would buy one if they were available, it does take 10 or 15 minutes for the mash temp to stabilise. I'm thinking of making one from an old camping mat to see if it makes any difference.
No quality issues to report whatsoever.
they look a similar diameter to a grainfather. Maybe that jacket would fit.
I had considered that allright but it looks like there are sections cut out of it for the control panel and maybe some of the other fittings as well so it wouldn't be perfect. A homemade jobbie might be just as good.
Maybe I shouls have a look.
This what I did to a Grainfather:
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/forum/index.php/topic,9390.msg134563.html#msg134563 (http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/forum/index.php/topic,9390.msg134563.html#msg134563)
Thanks very much Will, I'm not sure when I'd be out your neck of the woods though.
That job looks fantastic, what material did you use and did it make much of a difference with your mashing/boiling? The Bulldog should be quite straightforward to do with just the handles and tap to worry about.
There are 3 layers of the 2mm aluminised radiator foam under the SS outer wrapper.
Big difference to times etc. Whereas a boiling GF outside SS temp is like 100C+ my system is more like 35C.
Much safer and more energy efficient.
Oh BTW don't ever put the glass lid on a GF (even if not insulated) when doing the boil.
Brilliant Thanks Will, I will look into doing something similar.
There are 3 layers of the 2mm aluminised radiator foam under the SS outer wrapper.
Big difference to times etc. Whereas a boiling GF outside SS temp is like 100C+ my system is more like 35C.
Much safer and more energy efficient.
Oh BTW don't ever put the glass lid on a GF (even if not insulated) when doing the boil.
A few guys have been asking about a Beersmith profile for the Bulldog, below is what I have come up with after 4 brews.
You can add a new equipment profile by going to Profiles then equipment.
My batch size is 23 litres and I have set the brewhouse efficiency at 80% which gives a mash efficiency of around 88%. I boil on the 1800w setting so the boiloff rate is calculated based on that
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fQZexP7CU-OTYvzgsXViwjeU4NPhzOL36busQWGdVDF5oFE0uziVYthNstgtzwiUBEDq9aom5kD0mhgL_htR3q17mU-CPsQMTZ0wScxZfyqle8Xk3psR5s68ZD9THByooDXurPjXoOnlMFSV6DuR-Kk6Sv_jUtysbrt6of0gtA3HLUIQl_PHB0JEXrQrl1Dt2qOPzzMzOnXP_YxCh_BiEClUyZFpTzP4B6CMm3Nr58WhxRnPHKA14PplkHkLsxCDN5qss8sN1BA1MsCE7dO9-JNnB20FyLIlOHL6b0VOgc3rCP5Y_Gb3tzkoo66u5_0WsOSfk9kKMBFVKNXMmRftkkhska42BN63muaOVp2oTZjvIjogeWPzLfhk808hisHXQKVvS_yldyffUXVqd_sYZlvpcrfnx7K-HFnN1h3BDft1AYc-RGUFxLitYjCcTqIEbfOnRRTu0Hw3kvmyRUZb-1wC5u8qShUrQvT8Uqr-GOe7tQUoXVM35PcDFvUabgqezxKquUe0jO9eht9PJcD24TA1X3w2rP1ZuB9gohF82Sy9UmOiw2lFIzFZql8d5ZpiKkcT-9QtRX9hKU09b1ek5BvMSrXfZf8HWNvNwwG7ywd06o-MSdxEFaw=w753-h720-no)
The next thing I changed was the mash profile, and I'm using the Temperature mash, 1 step. Again these can by accessed by going to profiles the Mash Profiles, you will see that there are 3 profiles; Full, Light & Medium body. There are also 2 step but I'm not sure when you would use those. Below is my Medium body profile
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XdwCjaKmtK7d1q6vPAnmdHrVztzmV5np_ekVxkgAOiuzwckZNFETWdG6-9HxrcZssbpSQypgWG4-aeUwMLVYOMRtfh-y2JPUSHnKR_UBu0TgvFFw4cVsNcDr-iCeggQ_rI3NsydSkziNqS1BcVhdZ4ucTblRhvl6lenMh-n7xS4bldFBWtI96ygw0abMqAgJTo5I5WUPgk0L-qSfdid7SmGtTq-8QmUU9ZF2qEpRgdO5ApuxgNFy8M4ARme3deUM5JemJh4Fifv4SpZN5ZOMHcMToaqpVQYoiQWti3xbBD3lkXMl2fdDM4g3brz3I31R_ldzLVMYOUS20u9_c2P0nnCTpBggH6cV23aROgR_IggAKvcQ6I5YYYjt0yZZTWHmT-YqSkbavrtgQz2KvsVqCppiu5vOdG1FshgneYgxo-CVzeT58rKVDn8KPlmB4v5lcHtT-GVwWZSMDYCXVTfrc_yn5O-IAyAFFZJDspa9aFGe_5AAWq9tS9qidhpz6l-seZ7HP_PROoH3hEXDGpR-haG1ml3reShkmxDFMqg7LVppybBtqwZVhIVn_xwaOTAnWjiX2oW-_Y6fgOh3uSJa14icKM3tERXLX6GAV4bhkw2ESxWkRG0=w611-h675-no)
I changed the water to grain ratio on each of these to 3.80l/kg, you can do this by double clicking on the Saccharification line which will bring up another screen.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x62igkw-DBIVOMJgbJ3floPPKQXXldCR2V0qsEX6sIGqYYAJeEYK4ap9Mllnag-VHx_cjxL9bXJaEV8g5LE60gD9Wu8qAkHKcyLKazFbdOMmv2KTc8OxWDzFo2K6jgHoqZi6sWOo-l7-aP99DhRbaxCeK5zVXWtejJ7RD73I2BXB2R8N0hwU_KA9tuh1O6HA1sEsLCldk-IojXF5qJ0VRQXjynw3TxJtPbjRucZPaZamxdLHAxA_oN4o3OQTS3wKN-_blj9PQiLKxnu-X1TiiqNetkWskuGp4A_muccRuW4SYSyFfLNoAclaIzlub_ouyiWNSqCjYjMe4NLpJMxXsT2FA67jEGtQbvHjQRMDk55hgN5k_kLv0qfxAI9NDo8elEIJsCrKQJiiRh8k8f6VkBT2VQUDgDe0tIlAVnmEEH7hZeNLcSfSXAwPMT5XrFj0kYJgKJl7_odhVEKcerxlM_XJSBNO-u2LvkRkAFdac_zrebL9Y5Tls0cMpFUCPsWSoiAoA0JzPF_lEkFDybKScuWNecw0RRziFwcSppvuRQHw5rW9oNtkqKhzaeTPZWpaaus__8paV5AbrUwVtbiAfuddnw4v6D0VtyJhMUXKblz3quxfXhQ=w532-h338-no)
I think that's everything, hopefully it will help to get some of you started anyway.
I think that's everything, hopefully it will help to get some of you started anyway.
[/quote]
Fair play to ya
Thanks. Nice job
Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk
Is the boiloff really 4L p/h?! On my own similar sized system, my 2.5kW element @ 75% will boil off around 2L p/h. I wonder why it's so much more on the Bulldog.
thanks for those settings.
Quote from: Beechlawn Brewing on October 06, 2016, 02:31:57 PM
thanks for those settings.
No problem, let me know if you think anything is wrong, I'm no pro on Beersmith or anything.
Quote from: BrewDorg on October 05, 2016, 11:45:18 PM
Is the boiloff really 4L p/h?! On my own similar sized system, my 2.5kW element @ 75% will boil off around 2L p/h. I wonder why it's so much more on the Bulldog.
I think so, that was my estimate before my last brew and I was very close with my target volume and gravities. It is quite a vigorous boil even at 1800w, more experimentation is needed though. I just installed the 20L Braumeister profile there for a look and boil off is set at 4.260 l p/h, my old 3kw Burco type boiler used to boil off around 5 litres as well.
https://youtu.be/2Tg8j7arn4w
Whoever made that video:
Loose the "music" and maybe add a commentary!
There is one with a commentary here: https://youtu.be/Is-SbTrroDc
I can't find any other videos of it in action. It sounds like I may be better waiting for a v3.
How fast does that stainless wort chiller work?
Copper not be better?
I ran an initial test on 20L water (IIRC) with the supplied IC. Cooling water temp was around 16ºC flowing around 8L/min. You probably could pitch an ale at 11 mins (23º) if you have a fridge to cool further after pitching. So fine for ales, not so hot for lagers. Copper has much better conductivity, but some don't like copper on the cold side. Acidic wort will clean it shiny - so the oxide is going into the beer. Stainless is way less conductive but is inert as far as wort is concerned.
Mins: Temp
1: 80
2: 68
3: 59
4: 49
5: 42
6: 36
7: 33
8: 29
9: 26
10: 25
11: 23
15: 20
Since I was so vocal about the lack of pics etc available I felt I should share some of my V2 that arrived yesterday. I haven't brewed with it yet but I went through SkiBeagles post about cleaning it (see below).
The most striking thing when it arrived is how small and neat it is. Not in a bad way, but compared to a keg boiler and cooler box as a mash tun it's tiny. You can see it compared to my kettle, pots etc it's really neat. The missus was impressed, especially with the lack of steam. I haven't gone to full boil yet, but there was no condensation at all.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161015/824cb51bd72de81c515d2ac2ededeb06.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161015/e98d69c0a1c210db60b04ebbff58b8b6.jpg)
I had no rust spots or pump troubles as were reported with some v1's. The only issue I had was when I turned off the pump, closed the tap, with the pipe still in the lid, the hot liquid poured back down over my hand. One to watch out for.
I'll try it tonight for a brew and see how I get on. This part confused me a bit.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161015/998ab941383cbe935205258867880af5.jpg)
There was no mention of it in the instructions, I assume it's a stopper for the hole in the lid??
Quote from: SkiBeagle on August 20, 2016, 06:56:27 PM
Very pleased with this system. Simple to use.
It does need a good cleaning before use, as there will be manufacturing oils/grease in places.
I removed the malt pipe, removed the gigantic circlip that holds the malt pipe in the elevated position. There's a lot of grease/gunk in the groove that holds the circlip. Also, the groove in the lid is another place that holds gunk. I replaced the malt pipe, filled the pot with water up to the groove, and set it heating to 60C. Tossed in a dishwater tablet (non-perfumed kind - Lidl have them) and switched on the pump for an hour. The enzymes in the tab really get at any grease. Then I moved the pump outlet to the sink and pumped out the soapy water completely. Next, a few flushes with fresh water to get rid of any soap residue.
Finally, as CH says, I applied some neat Starsan with a sponge to all the surfaces, pipe, pot and all. Wear gloves doing this or you will lose skin. Leave to air dry for 30 minutes while the acid does its magic. Comes up clean as a whistle, no rust or stains, and sparkly ready for use. I've added a short hose on the inside under the lid to prevent the splashing down into the mash. This drops the pumped output below the wort level, to minimise aeration of the wort.
Haven't done a brew with it yet - just getting to know it and how best to use it. I expect it will be cranked up in earnest in the next day or two. Thanks to Brian for a great product at a great price.
Nice setup, if I hadn't built my own I would definitely buy one of these, still might.Does the V2 have an overflow pipe in the malt basket like the grainfather?
Best of luck with your first brew
Am just setting mine up now. Fal - are you keeping your old kit?
Am debating whether to keeping my old Peco boiler or pass it on.
I haven't seen the grainfather so I can't really compare but I don't see a overflow pipe. The malt pipe is lower than the lid and there are two holes where the handle for the malt pipe goes. Maybe they could work similarly. I'll get a photo of the inside later.
I'll probably sell on my old kit later. My main reason for getting the bulldog was we've just had our first a few months ago and while I've had no major problems keeping up brewing, the stoping and starting of dealing with the baby make it less enjoyable. So I thought the automation of this would make it less hands on if I have to walk away for any reason.
I have a deposit on one . Have to save my pennies now.
A fantastic brewer ;) in our club has a Grainfather. I might ask him for a side by side brewday when I get the Bulldog. I suspect the Grainfather is a bit more refined .. But I am interested on what the efficiency, ease of use and clean up are like on both machine.
Thanks for those pics.. It looks like I wont need to wait for good weather to brew anymore. Keggles are great, buts its an outside affair.
I did one brew on the version one so far. I'm not a prolific brewer by any means, 3 kids, a full time job and a savage study schedule puts paid to any beer like ideas at the moment. For me the cleanup after was the real clincher. No mash tun to empty and clean out. I basically got rid of the grain , hops from the hop spider (group buy) got the garden hose to it and a sponge and about 5 mins later it was clean. The malt pipe is a sinch to clean also. Only concern is the pump. I ran it clear with starsan but without being able to take it apart and scrub I fear it could harbour some nasties.
Finished my first brew today, I usually mash on a sat night and boil on a Sunday morning. I hit my target mash numbers bang on but was under on my target OG going into the fermenter. I think that's more down to my beersmith profile for mashing/sparging. I struggle a bit with them anyways.
I'm not going to go through the recipe or brew session. Just give some photos for those interested in one.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/65d1a179de883b27e3393a772106fd5a.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/07f44f9337f28b318ce5690659bfcf12.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/1752215bbee8b0cfb0d227c743e9bed7.jpg)
I'm not sure if I had too much liquid coming out of the pump, but this is the new sparge plate in action.
The next morning the temp was 30degrees and took almost 45 mins to get to boiling. But the thermostat and timer are great when it did start boiling.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/23d092ab48add516b15ea61a22340dfe.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/f4828f2c56ca9301153720092aa1b3f3.jpg)
The hop spider fits in perfectly too. The best bit for me was the cooling, I did a hop stand but it chilled pretty quickly to 18 degrees and by the time it was chilled I had everything else cleaned except the main boiler which as said before really easy.
11:30 stop boil, turn on chiller
11:36 80 degrees, stop chilling set hop stand and element to 700w
11:59 hop stand over
12:01 65 degrees
12:04 54 degrees
12:12 malt pipe removed 32 degrees
12:17 25 degrees
12:20 22 degrees
12:26 18 degrees
One failing was I couldn't find the button to stop the wife from asking are you finished yet over and over again in the last 15 minutes. That must be a grainfather feature
Do you need the hop spider and the malt pipe in for the boil? I would have thought you would remove the malt pipe.
Great pics.
Do you not put a centre peg in the middle of that plate there when mashing to allow all the wort to flow through the plate and across the grain and not down the overflow? Or only down the overflow when it gets to a higher level?
I did a brew with this today also. It took an hour and twenty minutes for me to hit mash temp of 68 degrees at 2500w from mains temp. I need to get onto HBW to work out what happens if I have a faulty one and this happens next brew also.
One of the other posters was saying that you lose a liter at 700 watt boil, but I ended up losing 4 or 5 liters.
My efficiency was really bad also - I reckon about 60%. Think this was because I didn't put in enough water in the mash (used 15 liters for 4.8 KGs of grain). This is the only factor I can think of that might have caused this.Normal ratios don't apply because you lose water with the malt pipe etc.
The cooling was the best bit for me. The Chiller is miles better than the last one I had. The thermometer in it was off though - said I had 23 degrees and in reality it was close to 30. Realised after I had pitched the yeast.
All in all it does it main job well, understand it'll take some getting used to but I'm a little concerned about the quality. I understood heating to mash temp was only supposed to take 20 mins and my brew day was close to old mash tun and boiler duration because of the delay. My missus was fit to kill me by the end also.
I know HSA for homebrewers is a myth but I'd be happier having a piece of silicone letting the returning wort let down gently onto that tray a bit like the grainfather.
@darren966 I left the malt pipe in only because I read a post where someone said it separated the hot break I think. But I think you could easily do without it.
@CH maybe that's what this plug is for
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/1d4ce2b052d904b91e36aa2f476deef1.jpg)
But I think I might have had too much flow from the pump too.
@kroc definatly get onto them, it took me 30 mins to get to mash temp. Its is slower to get to temp than my keggle with two elements, but the temp into my fermenter was bang on. I don't feel so bad that my efficiency was off now! I need to learn more about sparging & beersmith but I love to hear others experiences.
Another positive is it's much lighter, I screwed my back up last winter and the mash tun and keggle would kill me lifting them, this is much lighter even full of grain.
@Ch do you mean instead of the metal pipe?
kroc it almost seems like your wattage settings are wrong, it would take around an hour 20 minutes to get to mash temp at 700W and you would boil off at least 5 litres at 2500W . I boil at 1800W and lose around 4 litres.
I'd use around 17.5 litres in the mash for that amount of grain, because the maltpipe is raised off the bottom I think you need to allow for the water that is sitting underneath.
Damofto- good point. It was definitely 5 litres and a very vigorous boil at supposedly 700 watts.
the boil at 700 watts is not vigorous by any means, that's why I use 1800.
Damo, how much water did you sparge with? For 5kgs of grain beersmith is telling to mash with 23.27 liters and fly sparge with 14.33litres
Plan on doing a brew tomorrow with it. Going to do BIAB instead of sparge
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Dont people mash with the Grainfather with the malt pipe open?
Quote from: Motorbikeman on October 17, 2016, 09:50:46 AM
Dont people mash with the Grainfather with the malt pipe open?
You mean the centre tube? if so, then yes, this is a safety overflow tube. If the mash compacts, then the malt pipe will fill up and the boiler could run dry, the overflow prevents this.
Went to do a dry run today before a brew tomorrow and the pump doesn't work 🙁
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All sorted loose connection in the pump. Easy fix
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I agree with the assessment that the wattage must be wired up wrong. Figures seem to add up
Quote from: Fal on October 17, 2016, 08:26:12 AM
Damo, how much water did you sparge with? For 5kgs of grain beersmith is telling to mash with 23.27 liters and fly sparge with 14.33 litres
I use 19 litres in the mash and 16 to sparge with an 1800w boil. You might need to top it up a bit afterwards, on my last brew I ended up 1 litre short and 2 points high on the gravity but I want to do another brew before I change any settings.
So put 35l in total into the mash? How much did you end up with for the boil? I haven't fully got to grips with liquid volumes
Yes 35 litres total, I had 28 or 29 litres in the boil and 24 into the fermenter after. Beersmith did say to top-up preboil volume to 30 litres but I didn't do that because I wasn't sure what the postboil would be. I was happy enough with the slightly higher gravity and 24 litres, never managed that volume with my old setup.
Thanks for that. I used to just up the grain and go no sparge or little sparge in my last set up. Hence the struggle.
Great, I am brewing tomorrow and going to use 33l
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No problem, you should save a lot of grain by using the Bulldog so.
Fantastic customer service there by HBW. They are looking after their customers with this - will be swapping out my unit (seems like its faulty- I was unlucky).
Another video. Just realised my one doesnt have the pipe up the middle. Will have to test how quick it gets up to mash temp too. Mine took over 30 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiDgIf5iL1A
My new one went to mash temp in about 20 minutes. Went from that to 100 in 15! I was ready to start cooling down in just over 3 hours yesterday.
One tip: don't set your target temp at 102. Mine was hitting that and cutting off the boiler before it hit full rolling boil. When I set the target temp to 104 it took off properly. Maybe this is because I had too much wort in it (30 liters) - it was at 102 at the sensor but not all the way to the top.
My efficiency still is poor, despite using 20 liters for the mash, stirring grain well as it was added etc. Seems to be lots of threads on the grainfather on how to get proper efficiency from these systems - need to do some readingup.
Looking at that he has that wrong that sparging plate should be used aka the grainfather one for distribution of the returning wort as otherwise you are going to get channeling down the side where the flow is.
HSA is in theory a myth for homebrewing, but a length of silicone just so that it sits on the top and isn't splashing in aka again like the GF would be good.
Boiling with lid on is a no no as well

His boil wasn't great so you are probably right needs to be at 103/4 for a rolling boil.
Still think for the money it's a great bit of kit!!
Quote from: kroc on October 22, 2016, 10:03:30 AM
My efficiency still is poor, despite using 20 liters for the mash, stirring grain well as it was added etc. Seems to be lots of threads on the grainfather on how to get proper efficiency from these systems - need to do some readingup.
Biggest suspect is grain crush size and exposure of grain, if you have no mash plate like the guy in the vid you need to stir 3-4 times throughout the mash to ensure you are exposing all the grain
Thanks CH. I was using the sparge plate but not at a high flow - will increase that next time. I'm buying a grain mill aswell so I can have the grain size Skibeagle talked about.
What I'm finding with the brewer is you need to learn how to use all the different parts of it - its like starting brewing all over again when I knew my old setup inside out. When you dial it in though its a beast - I brought mine up to 2500 w to try and burn off some of the wort and you should have seen it take off!
Hopefully Hamilton Bard figure out how they're going to support it though, affordable repairs or replacement components. Even at this price you would expect to get a few years out of it.
I've been boiling at 102 no problems, I don't leave the malt pipe in when boiling though not sure if that makes any difference.
I agree with CH on the silicone hose, mine is the V1 version so I have no mash plate. On my first brew the wort stopped recirculating halfway through and I put this down to channelling, since then I've been attaching a silicone hose to the end of the pump tube inside the lid and that sits on top of the mash. I've had no problems since and great efficiency.
They really are a great piece of kit.
I'm the same as damofto, done leave the malt pipe in for the boil. I use the hop spider. The channelling is something I have not encountered but probably out of sheer luck
Quote from: Damofto on October 22, 2016, 12:05:31 PM
On my first brew the wort stopped recirculating halfway through and I put this down to channelling, since then I've been attaching a silicone hose to the end of the pump tube inside the lid and that sits on top of the mash. I've had no problems since and great efficiency.
Are you saying that using a pipe extension resting on the grainbed will prevent re-circulation problems? I too have V1 and during the mash the wort stopped circulating. I can't quite figure out what went wrong or how to prevent it next time. I had to stop the pump. When I lifted the grain basket the wort barely trickled out. I ended up dropping the basket back in and stirring up the grains to try and get a flow it was far from ideal. They sank to the bottom and the same thing happened again. I thought it might be to do with the grain crush. The grains came from HBC.
Quote from: ianm on November 01, 2016, 04:39:04 AM
Quote from: Damofto on October 22, 2016, 12:05:31 PM
On my first brew the wort stopped recirculating halfway through and I put this down to channelling, since then I've been attaching a silicone hose to the end of the pump tube inside the lid and that sits on top of the mash. I've had no problems since and great efficiency.
Are you saying that using a pipe extension resting on the grainbed will prevent re-circulation problems? I too have V1 and during the mash the wort stopped circulating. I can't quite figure out what went wrong or how to prevent it next time. I had to stop the pump. When I lifted the grain basket the wort barely trickled out. I ended up dropping the basket back in and stirring up the grains to try and get a flow it was far from ideal. They sank to the bottom and the same thing happened again. I thought it might be to do with the grain crush. The grains came from HBC.
The grain bed compacted and wort couldn't flow through, this is why the grainfather has an overflow. Use oat husks in your mash next time, this should prevent this happening, I use 250 - 300 grams especially if doing a wheat beer
I though the bulldog had an overflow as well???
WOuld the thing not burn out unless it had ?
I've used Oat Husks before to good effect as well, the problem with the V1 Bulldog is the pump tube just slots into the lid and the wort flows directly down onto the mash from a height causing it to compact. Even when you reduce the flow at the tap it seems a bit strong to me.
I will pick up the mash plate whenever they become available but for now the silicone hose allows me to recirculate the wort more gently and it's working great.
Hi. with the big drop in the Grainfather price,,
Are these bulldog brewers as good? The gap has got a nice bit closer..
€410.00 for the Bulldog
€665.00 the the Grainfather
is that not a special price down to move on product to me there is still a big difference no?
250 quid is still quite a big gap I think
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I ordered one from Ace uk trading just a boiler and digital temp display. They have a new one coming out soon which which is an all in one brewing system that they think is better than the Bulldog
Might be one to keep an eye on he thinks the price will be around £320
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Quote from: Motorbikeman on November 03, 2016, 12:29:41 PM
Hi. with the big drop in the Grainfather price,,
Are these bulldog brewers as good? The gap has got a nice bit closer..
€410.00 for the Bulldog
€665.00 the the Grainfather
631 with the NHC discount
Are you sure discount applies I'd check with the vendor first, most HBS only allow us discount of full whack price not specials, ask, sure you never know and if you are a regular customer they just might!
I see on Geterbrewed website, they are giving a ss fermenter away with each purchase
Quote from: CH on November 03, 2016, 02:40:11 PM
Are you sure discount applies I'd check with the vendor first, most HBS only allow us discount of full whack price not specials, ask, sure you never know and if you are a regular customer they just might!
Went to checkout, put the code in and the price was reduced
I should add that yoir club discount also applies to the Bulldog .
Bringing it to around 390.
I have seen the bulldog and it looks like a class bit of kit. My only concern with it is the pump. The pump on the GF is supposed to be bulletproof and the Gf also has a nice counter flow chiller. That being said, is the GF 250 euro better than the Bulldog (scratches head and ponders)
The bulldog does look great for the price and an immersion chiller with a whirlpool produces a clearer wort that a counterflow chiller in my opinion. However, the counterflow chiller is a lot more effective at cooling wort and GF parts are widley available. I'm also put off the bulldog as it seems there's either to much or too little power output.
Why do you say that about the power output, it's perfect in my experience?
I have never used the grainfathers wort chiller system.
But I do use an immersion chiller. And I hose it down for 30 secs and put it back in the shed .
What its cleaning the GF chiller like?
Quote from: Damofto on November 05, 2016, 12:37:51 AM
Why do you say that about the power output, it's perfect in my experience?
I should have stated that I do not own one so I don't know first hand but I've seen a few videos now and it seems most users opt for the lower output for their boil (which seems to be quite gentle) as it tends to be too vigorous (videos show boiling wort shooting out of the centre tube like a fountain) otherwise. Video comments agree with this too.
I use the middle option 1800w to boil and thing it's perfect, definatly the 2500w is too much and would cause what you described
I have a feeling the reason that people are having different experiences with the bulldog is that some are using the Malt Pipe in the boil and others aren't, so I did of playing around with it on my brew day today. I had a full 30 litre boil and had never used the malt pipe it in the boil myself prior to this:
700W - is for mashing so I didn't compare
1800W - Malt pipe in - weak boil not adequate in my opinion
- Malt pipe out - much better boil, not as good as I had previously but it was very cold today
2500W - Malt Pipe in - very aggresive boil, too strong in fact it would have boiled over if I hadn't shut it off
- Malt Pipe out - Excellent rolling boil
Up to now I had done all my boils on 1800w but it wasn't as good today due to the cold i'd say, so I did the full 60 minutes on 2500W without the Malt pipe with no problems, I just needed to spray the hot break with cold water a couple of times at the beginning.
I don't think boiling with the Malt pipe is a good idea and I've never seen it done in similar systems, Grainfather, Braumeister etc.
Why would you possibly leave it in? It's a massive heat sink?
Quote from: CH on November 06, 2016, 08:03:27 PM
Why would you possibly leave it in? It's a massive heat sink?
To contain the hops? Would dropping the temp setting on the control panel lower a vigorous boil using the 2500W element?
I take it out myself but stick the hop spider in
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-220v-3000W-SCR-Voltage-Regulator-Speed-Governor-Thermostat-Dimming-FOR-motor-/171122672930
Quote from: CH on November 06, 2016, 08:03:27 PM
Why would you possibly leave it in? It's a massive heat sink?
Yes I know and I never would have dreamt of it only all the videos I have seen online have it in. So I had a look at the instructions that came with it and it says if you are using cone hops you can add the malt pipe back into the boil, so that's why people have been doing it.
Bulldog Brewer 2 boil tests. Not me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQy5CsZ3vPw
What is the diameter on the malt pipe? He mentioned some of the hb stores were selling the grain basket as hop spiders, wonder if any of the hb stores will sell the malt pipe separately.
Malt pipe for use in a kegged could be pretty cool for biab Brewers...
Doing a boil at 1800 vs 2200 will prolong life of your element.
Hop bags or spiders for your boil aka Grainfather and BM models.
A hop spider like we bought from Bridgewater is a relatively small volume compared to the full boil kettle. This allows good circulation of the boiling wort.
The malt pipes sit about an inch or so above the base of the pot and for mashing - its ok for mashing as the pump keeps the wort circulating and you are not really heating the wort just holding its temperature.
When boiling with either 1800 or 2500 watts the little pump will not be able to circulate the wort quickly enough and I am sure you will get local over heating in the dead space under the pipe.
Just buy a proper hop spider - particularly if using pellets.
Quote from: Will_D on November 08, 2016, 11:16:07 AM
When boiling with either 1800 or 2500 watts the little pump will not be able to circulate the wort quickly enough and I am sure you will get local over heating in the dead space under the pipe.
Yep Prof of course there is no way you have an efficient heat transfer with that mash pipe creating an elevated temp hot spot between the base and the malt pipe and shortening life of the element even more.
Quote from: TonyC on November 07, 2016, 11:34:27 PM
Bulldog Brewer 2 boil tests. Not me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQy5CsZ3vPw
Basically the UK stores are trying to say that the basket is good enough to filter both cone and pellet hops,he was just saying that no way since one look at the holes will tell you they are not fine enough for that,his feeling was too much would get through and block the bazooka.Then again the chap is only starting out with the BB he only got it the other week but stay tuned because he is doing some more videos on it.I did send him the link for the place we got the hop spiders though as he expressed interest in getting one at a good price. ;D
Weird video, the emotional music at the start and the the double knob relocation when first on camera kinda ruined it for me
probably why i don't do vids you'd put up al sorts like bollock adjusts at 00:00:34 ;D
I have a concern after giving mine a spin this evening.
When boiling on the 1800 setting. With the basket in, It belches boiling water out the pipe and onto the floor. If I put the plug in, it belches boiling water out the side.
700w is not enough.
How to you guys stop this happening on the 1800w setting?
Take the basket out!
Quote from: CH on November 11, 2016, 10:17:43 PM
Take the basket out!
+1 on that. The malt pipe is way too big to be considered as a hop spider, plus I would question how effective it is, my hop spider is 300 micron ( I think) this is so fine that you can't really see the holes in it. False bottoms tend to have 1 or 2 mm holes and are designed to stop grain not pellet hops
Will it get choked up when I use hop cones with just the basoka filter.
Personal opinion is perforations I've seen in the base of that thing are all but useless as a hop spider amazed manufacturer is suggesting use it as such and leave in the boil.
Use hop spider or better still nylon hop bags from HBS they are only a couple of quid advice is get big ones as you be amazed how much hops swell and also you want maximum circulation through the bag.
You can use em for pellets too.
If I have massive leaf additions I weigh it down with marbles or a piece of stainless plumbing
I sold on my hop spider thinking I did not need it again :-\ :-\
Might give those baggies a whirl ..
Are these the type you would recommend? At that price I would just dump them after one use.. Handy..
http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/muslin-hop-grain-bags-p-84.html
While cooling down the wort I have been pumping the wort down into the hop spider through the hops to increase utilization. Does it work?, no idea, but the beer tastes nice and hoppy so I'm gonna keep doing it.
Quote from: auralabuse on November 12, 2016, 10:54:59 AM
While cooling down the wort I have been pumping the wort down into the hop spider through the hops to increase utilization. Does it work?, no idea, but the beer tastes nice and hoppy so I'm gonna keep doing it.
I tried this method with a Grainfather. End beer did have more hop flavour, but also a slight haze. Coincidence? I DID also forget to add the Irish Moss :-[
I stop cooling coming down to 80 and whirlpool for 20 mins.
Finish chilling then let stand for 20-30 mins
The hop spider even though I don't use it for hops I would never sell always useful as a grain filter even for Herms
CH, are you saying you do a hop stand with hops still in wort at pitching temp?
Yep I'm whirlpooling so it allows all the heavy crap to fall out before I transfer to fermenter
Interesting, I'll add that to my next brew thanks
Give it a go, some trub does benefit fermentation but I was getting way too much coming through.
I've seen some siphon only the very clear stuff off the top, which is the other extreme
If you have a hop spider I find there is no need for a whirlpool, the 20 minute stand at the end let's all the break settle and less is transferred to the fv.
The whirlpool is to allow rapid cooling of beer, typically 50% quicker than just leaving IC suspended, maximum contact with the pellet hops and also so I have a cone of hops at the bottom of boiler
Forgot about the cooling aspect, I use a plate chiller, forgot the bulldog uses an immersion so that is why I stopped whirl pooling, no benefit to me in it
Thanks to Damofto for giving me some beersmith profile settings.
Just a question or two.
I have it all set ready to roll. Before, I always had to heat up my cooler box mash tun water to around 7 or 8 degrees higher to compensate for the incoming cooler grain. This in turn always landed on my desired mash temp..
I see with your temperature mash setting that this is no longer added to beer smith. Is this correct? Do I no longer need to adjust for cool grain being added?
No.2
Quote from: Damofto on October 05, 2016, 08:29:57 PM
I changed the water to grain ratio on each of these to 3.80l/kg, you can do this by double clicking on the Saccharification line which will bring up another screen.
Why did you change this setting? I dont disagree with it, im just wondering why it needs changed.
Quote from: Motorbikeman on November 14, 2016, 02:40:55 PM
I see with your temperature mash setting that this is no longer added to beer smith. Is this correct? Do I no longer need to adjust for cool grain being added?
Yes, I found that when I did that it took to long to come back down to temp, just leave it on 700w when you're doughing and and it should come back up to temp fairly quickly
Quote from: Motorbikeman on November 14, 2016, 02:40:55 PM
Why did you change this setting? I dont disagree with it, im just wondering why it needs changed.
The mash was far too thick when I used the default setting, I'm guessing it's because the malt pipe in the Bulldog is raised and there are a couple of litres underneath that Beersmith wasn't allowing for
Quote from: CH on November 12, 2016, 09:19:17 PM
Yep I'm whirlpooling so it allows all the heavy crap to fall out before I transfer to fermenter
I tried to whirlpool but ended up just doing more splashing around. Didnt't find it easy with the chiller left in and also the bazooka stopped the dense matter from collecting at the bottom. There is only a small amount of deadspace. Unless I was doing it all wrong.
Quote from: Damofto on November 14, 2016, 08:25:40 PM
Quote from: Motorbikeman on November 14, 2016, 02:40:55 PM
I see with your temperature mash setting that this is no longer added to beer smith. Is this correct? Do I no longer need to adjust for cool grain being added?
Yes, I found that when I did that it took to long to come back down to temp, just leave it on 700w when you're doughing and and it should come back up to temp fairly quickly
Quote from: Motorbikeman on November 14, 2016, 02:40:55 PM
Why did you change this setting? I dont disagree with it, im just wondering why it needs changed.
The mash was far too thick when I used the default setting, I'm guessing it's because the malt pipe in the Bulldog is raised and there are a couple of litres underneath that Beersmith wasn't allowing for
Have you mashed with the sparge plate in ? Im thinking this would stop the grain bed sticking.
I didn't get a mash plate with mine, in any case it still seemed too dry. You could always try it on the default settings and top it up with a litre or two extra if you think it needs it, that's what I did the first day I used it.
There's a guy on youtube called The Blundering Brewer who just released a video which owners should take a look at. Its the one were he makes a Belgian Dubbel.
Seen it. I had awful problems with my first brew in the bulldog but it was just a panic of a day from my part. Should have done a dry run and planned it better. Didn't have the same problem as he did lifting the malt pipe
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Did my first run with it today. Went fairly well apart from a pump problem...
Posted pics here if anyone is interested.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/232730833807178/234602240286704/?notif_t=like¬if_id=1479391321187470
Doing a brew on Monday
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Give the pump a spin for 15 mins.. Mine got jammed up and could have ruined my day if it happened early
.. Im guess it was just a bit tight on its bushings .
Fairly easy to fix though.
@motorbikeman, I returned a pump that didn't start when I went to do my second brew. In case it happens again, what did you do to fix it?
I couldn't see anything obvious sticking or jammed at the time and it seemed to be getting power from the switch okay so I just put it aside and contacted HBW who sorted me out pretty quickly.
A rinse in warm water say 60 and w5 recirc for 5 mins and then a recirc in normal warm water for 10-20 ensuring no cleaner left in pump!!
Just looking at them in the shop in Galway amazing bits of kit for the money couldn't believe how sturdy it was.
My personal mods would be
Pump upgrade
Hop spider or hop bags
I'd remove bazooka and whirlpool with pump and let everything settle for 20 mins at the end of a boil as tap is high enough off base.
Still believe you should remove the malt pipe

Those aside great value for money
I gave mine a good rinse after the first brew, but it was just dead when I took it out for the second go.
Re: mods I've a bridgewater hop spider and it works great especially with the malt pipe out!
Quote from: Fal on November 17, 2016, 03:24:23 PM
@motorbikeman, I returned a pump that didn't start when I went to do my second brew. In case it happens again, what did you do to fix it?
I couldn't see anything obvious sticking or jammed at the time and it seemed to be getting power from the switch okay so I just put it aside and contacted HBW who sorted me out pretty quickly.
Its probably going to effect your warranty if you strip the pump, I did it because I did not want to bin 5kgs of grain..
Remove the 4 screws and take the coil off.
There is a little white pin in the center or the armature . Note there is also a white washer and black washer on either end that may drop out. Take a pic of it so you know how they are positioned.
Gently push the white pin on either end and it will come right through and out. Give it a wipe and wash the the armature.
Reassemble .. Making sure the end of the pin is located properly back into the impeller . There is a flat plain on one side which fits into the impellers hole to drive it.
Its a very simple wee thing. You will need tweezers to get the washers back on.
Good as new. Maybe a smear of vegetable oil or coconut oil may help keep it moving.. Any thoughts on that?
Dont expect the brew shop to take a return if you open it.
The pumps look like solar pumps.
I'm guessing sticky wort is gumming it up.
At the end of your brewday, circulate hot water through for a few mins.
Dump it.
Do it again.
Really like this look of this but just worried that it isn't very robust or reliable from reading some of the comments. For the people who bought one would you recommend it
Quote from: SB on November 17, 2016, 07:55:01 PM
Really like this look of this but just worried that it isn't very robust or reliable from reading some of the comments. For the people who bought one would you recommend it
imm. i like it. I had problems today, but its things i can correct for future brews.
pump problem easy to fix.
difficulties sparging.
both small niggles.
It will be easy to master and make decent beer with.
I will be keeping it. And possibly upgrading parts as time goes on .
It was raining all day here and for the first time ,i could brew indoors..
Thanks for the reply motorbikeman. It does look like it will make brewday simpler when it works. Think I will treat myself for Christmas. Please keep the updates coming as you use it more
I got one and love it. Cut brew day right back and the beer quality up. I have a Bridgewater hop spider too and that helps. I have 2 spare solar pumps should the pump ever give out as that is the most likely point of failure for me. Really neat piece of kit. The main unit is well made and seems very robust. Has actually made brew day a pleasure again.
Cheers auralabuse sounds good. Like the idea of shortening the brewday and less things to clean. Do you have a link to the spare pumps you got that fit this unit?
Quote from: auralabuse on November 17, 2016, 10:27:26 PM
...... Cut brew day right back and the beer quality up...
How long is your brewday now? From the time you flick on the power to finish of clean up?
I'm just short of 5 hours, but now I can do other stuff too,multitasking me
If you're looking to cost justify these...
Assume minimum wage of eur10.
Of your 5 hours, say 3 are doing non-beer, wife friendly things.
At 30 Euro a brew it's paid for in 10 brews.
Quote from: johnrm on November 18, 2016, 08:06:15 AM
If you're looking to cost justify these...
Assume minimum wage of eur10.
Of your 5 hours, say 3 are doing non-beer, wife friendly things.
At 30 Euro a brew it's paid for in 10 brews.
I like your logic, however those 3 "wife friendly" hours will most likely be spent doing more shopping so it probably ends up costing you more money in the long run! :)
That's where you counter with...
'Hey Honey, how about we save more money by not going shopping and I invite the guys around for a brewday?'.
:) :) will try that so!
My brew days are strictly wife free events
Quote from: Motorbikeman on November 14, 2016, 02:40:55 PM
Thanks to Damofto for giving me some beersmith profile settings.
Just a question or two.
I have it all set ready to roll. Before, I always had to heat up my cooler box mash tun water to around 7 or 8 degrees higher to compensate for the incoming cooler grain. This in turn always landed on my desired mash temp..
I see with your temperature mash setting that this is no longer added to beer smith. Is this correct? Do I no longer need to adjust for cool grain being added?
No.2
Quote from: Damofto on October 05, 2016, 08:29:57 PM
I changed the water to grain ratio on each of these to 3.80l/kg, you can do this by double clicking on the Saccharification line which will bring up another screen.
Why did you change this setting? I dont disagree with it, im just wondering why it needs changed.
Any chance you can share these profile settings. I am new to beersmith and trying to set it up.
Quote from: CH on November 12, 2016, 09:19:17 PM
Yep I'm whirlpooling so it allows all the heavy crap to fall out before I transfer to fermenter
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he did share them. On page 3 I think.
See it now and have it setup. Thanks :)
Hi,could anyone tell me what tubing(size,etc.) they use for the chiller and where I might buy some please?
I'm just using a standard garden hose.
Quote from: Motorbikeman on November 17, 2016, 04:24:56 PM
Quote from: Fal on November 17, 2016, 03:24:23 PM
@motorbikeman, I returned a pump that didn't start when I went to do my second brew. In case it happens again, what did you do to fix it?
I couldn't see anything obvious sticking or jammed at the time and it seemed to be getting power from the switch okay so I just put it aside and contacted HBW who sorted me out pretty quickly.
Its probably going to effect your warranty if you strip the pump, I did it because I did not want to bin 5kgs of grain..
Remove the 4 screws and take the coil off.
There is a little white pin in the center or the armature . Note there is also a white washer and black washer on either end that may drop out. Take a pic of it so you know how they are positioned.
Gently push the white pin on either end and it will come right through and out. Give it a wipe and wash the the armature.
Reassemble .. Making sure the end of the pin is located properly back into the impeller . There is a flat plain on one side which fits into the impellers hole to drive it.
Its a very simple wee thing. You will need tweezers to get the washers back on.
Good as new. Maybe a smear of vegetable oil or coconut oil may help keep it moving.. Any thoughts on that?
Dont expect the brew shop to take a return if you open it.
Got my Brewdog last week, popped on my first brew last night, very happy with how it went, however 45min into my mash the pump stopped working. It just had a green flashing light on the plug, but no pumping effect.
I followed your method above (after contacting HBW who were very helpful and mentioned a few tricks to try, but they also said if I opened it I wouldn't void my warranty, so I tried opening it) and the pump now works 100%.
Thanks a million
Quote from: coolkidirish on April 06, 2017, 10:07:58 PM
Quote from: Motorbikeman on November 17, 2016, 04:24:56 PM
Quote from: Fal on November 17, 2016, 03:24:23 PM
@motorbikeman, I returned a pump that didn't start when I went to do my second brew. In case it happens again, what did you do to fix it?
I couldn't see anything obvious sticking or jammed at the time and it seemed to be getting power from the switch okay so I just put it aside and contacted HBW who sorted me out pretty quickly.
Its probably going to effect your warranty if you strip the pump, I did it because I did not want to bin 5kgs of grain..
Remove the 4 screws and take the coil off.
There is a little white pin in the center or the armature . Note there is also a white washer and black washer on either end that may drop out. Take a pic of it so you know how they are positioned.
Gently push the white pin on either end and it will come right through and out. Give it a wipe and wash the the armature.
Reassemble .. Making sure the end of the pin is located properly back into the impeller . There is a flat plain on one side which fits into the impellers hole to drive it.
Its a very simple wee thing. You will need tweezers to get the washers back on.
Good as new. Maybe a smear of vegetable oil or coconut oil may help keep it moving.. Any thoughts on that?
Dont expect the brew shop to take a return if you open it.
Got my Brewdog last week, popped on my first brew last night, very happy with how it went, however 45min into my mash the pump stopped working. It just had a green flashing light on the plug, but no pumping effect.
I followed your method above (after contacting HBW who were very helpful and mentioned a few tricks to try, but they also said if I opened it I wouldn't void my warranty, so I tried opening it) and the pump now works 100%.
Thanks a million
What tips did they mention? I might give mine a go this weekend.
The bdb pump I have didn't work, similar to what you describe. The problem was that the electrical connectors in the switch weren't connecting. I joined them with some electrical tape and put cable ties on the wires (inside the switch) so they wouldn't get loose again. Much better now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Any one got a screenshot of beersmith profile, the one from page 3 is gone. just pulled the trigger and ordered one
I fixed the images there, moved from Photobucket to Google photos. It seems Photobucket are charging for 3rd party hosting now.
Quote from: SprocketFuel on July 27, 2017, 11:35:29 AM
Any one got a screenshot of beersmith profile, the one from page 3 is gone. just pulled the trigger and ordered one
Where did you order it from?
http://www.homebrewwest.ie/bulldog-brewer-all-in-one-brewing-system-444-c.asp
Quote from: ianm on November 16, 2016, 07:49:30 PM
There's a guy on youtube called The Blundering Brewer who just released a video which owners should take a look at. Its the one were he makes a Belgian Dubbel.
https://youtu.be/qsOJeOGSiqA