Hi guys. Ive been trying to figure this out, and would like to have it right before next brew.
I am trying to find out how to calculate my equipment temperature loss from hot liquor tank to mash tun without trying it on a brew first
The reason being I have a dial thermometer on the side of the HLT and Mash tun which was fine but I got a mash thermometer http://www.homebrewwest.ie/mash-thermometer-and-protective-cover--10c-to-110c-1773-p.asp (http://www.homebrewwest.ie/mash-thermometer-and-protective-cover--10c-to-110c-1773-p.asp) which told a different temperature from the dial by 6-10 degrees difference (one 10 on 6) . So I decided to go and get a thermapen as I know/hope this will be accurate (which I have just got -fabulous piece of kit)https://thermapen.co.uk/ (https://thermapen.co.uk/)
My questions are
1. Does anyone have a stepped process to find out what you equipment loss is - ie while not doing a brew so that there is a fair chance Ill get the strike water temp correct without adjusting with kettles of hot or cold water?
2. Is there a different temp equipment loss then for sparging (fly or batch) to get to the mash out temp just right. If you know the equipment loss from HLT to mash tun or is it the same as 1. or different. If different is there a process to calculate this?
3. I think I kinda know the answer to this one but - Do I need to re calibrate the dial thermometer (id guess yes), and if so how do you do this?
Sorry for the length and complexity but this has been hurting my head so I thought I see if there was a relatively easy solution/process
Im a bit freaked out that my mash temps may well have been grossly wrong for the last 6 months since I started all grain. Good news is the beer tasted just great anyway. Im trying to get a bit more scientific about the brew processing as Im sure it will improve results. Apologies if this is in the wrong section wasn't sure whether to put in AG or equipment section.
1. Use a strike water calculator such as
http://www.brewersfriend.com/mash/. The losses in temp are due to grain temp and heating the mash tun. You should always pre heat your tun.
2. I don't worry about mash out temps, I usually heat my sparge water to 75 - 78 degrees, sparge, collect the runnings and bring to the boil. You could use the calculator above to possibly achieve what you want. There should be no great heat loss at this stage as everything is up to temp.
3.You need to recalibrate your dial thermometer. Use your thermapen as the source for calibration. There should be a small circle with a slot for a screwdriver head on the back of the dial thermometer, use this to set the correct temperature.
also chuck in a couple of liters of hot water into the mash tum 5-10 minutes beforehand and chuck it before mashing.
That'll get her nice and toasty before you start adding mash water and grain
Ok got it.
After getting strike water calculations how do you figure out what temp to heat hot liquor tank water to presumably abiut 10 degrees higher than strike temp?
If you want to mash at 65 and calculator says heat to 69 that is the temp you need in the hlt. 69 degrees is strike temp.
Doh. Cool 😎 🍻. Clears it rightly up in my head
Use beersmith it does all the calcs for you
Well lads I have to say fair play
When I looked at the thermometers the one on the mash tun was out at room temp compared to boil kettle and HLT.
Calibrated the three dial thermometers with ice as per you tube
Used the above link to calculate strike water temp for todays brew (76 degrees) in HLT, expected 68 degress and it was spot on. Also did what you said about warming the tun up first.
I think I may have been mash about 6 degrees out for a while now (god only knows how long really as I was trusting the dial thermometers) - so hopefully the outcomes will improve
Anyways thanks again
Glad it worked out, I Love hitting my numbers, mash temp is one thing I obsess over
Any probably one of the most important steps in the whole process
8)
At the end of the day you will start making A1 beer now and that's what it's all about.
My blichman dial t was out 4 degrees when I got it, I still regularly measure Herms return into mash tun, not relying on digital probe as everything drifts.