Lads, I'm looking for advice on boilers from some more experienced heads. I'd prefer to go stainless steel (though I could be convinced otherwise) and was thinking about getting this converted pot from Hop & Grape. Looks pretty solid.
http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/public/detailv1.asp?itemcode=STA20252653
The boiler is available as standard with a copper manifold type hop-stopper and a chrome-plated brass tap. For a few extra quid you can convert to a stainless steel false bottom and tap. I'm not sure if it's worth the extra dollars though.
Advice greatly appreciated.
paddy m8 with what they are charging for add on options i would tell them to piss off tbh ;D i have been looking around myself, did you ever consider building your own, it might work out cheaper?
I'd say build your own as well is the best option! But it doesn't look like a bad piece of kit, just a bit expensive!
Aw Jesus lads, I knew you'd say that!! ;D
You don't realise how clueless I am with DIY. I would ruin 10 stockpots and still end up with something that leaked.
They are expensive, but I see it as a once off investment. The Malt Miller do something similar but they just cut out holes for the electric elements (for a charge, of course)
http://themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=389
What about that one paddy? If you get it tell them Dullahan sent ya ;) ;D
http://www.homebrewwest.ie/28-litre-boiler-ss-electric-2000-p.asp
yeah, I considered the Burco/Buffalo type boilers but I prefer not to have the concealed element. If the element wears out, the whole boiler has to be replaced.
also, some of the posters on JBK have had trouble with these types of boilers cutting out during the boil due to the thermostat. They've bypassed the thermostat but as i say, I'm useless at this stuff.
Paddy maybe if we knew a price range from you it might help ;) ;D
Paddy, if you end up going the kettle element route and run into the age-old 'elements cutting out mid-boil'...
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1356720932
QuotePaddy, if you end up going the kettle element route and run into the age-old 'elements cutting out mid-boil'...
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1356720932
Thanks john that's bookmarked, could come in useful.
I have a preference for the stainless steel option because it seems safer and more durable, but I want a reliable setup. I don't want to be dealing with mid-boil cutouts. What are people here using for boilers? If the brew days at TOG are anything to go by, a lot of the lads seem more than happy with the converted fermenters...?
(btw, I've read that some brewers clean the elements well by boiling a few litres of water with some citric acid. Anyone do this?)
Paddy have a look here there might be something you fancy?
http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/beer-wine-equipment-heaters-and-boilers-c-2_28.html
QuoteQuotePaddy, if you end up going the kettle element route and run into the age-old 'elements cutting out mid-boil'...
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1356720932
Thanks john that's bookmarked, could come in useful.
I have a preference for the stainless steel option because it seems safer and more durable, but I want a reliable setup. I don't want to be dealing with mid-boil cutouts. What are people here using for boilers? If the brew days at TOG are anything to go by, a lot of the lads seem more than happy with the converted fermenters...?
(btw, I've read that some brewers clean the elements well by boiling a few litres of water with some citric acid. Anyone do this?)
Toothbrush and elbow grease, elements dont like chemicals, bit of oxi if you must
I suppose with a boil kettle it will be a long time before you get calcium build up on the element. It would be different from a domestic kettle that would be used several times a day and had hot water left in it. Citric acid or even white spirit vinegar should not be a problem for using to clean the element by heating it. I would be careful though as even though the concentrations are low you don't want hot acids coming in contact with your skin. Would be a good idea to wach this out thoroughly afterwards. I would be with Cider head and avoid the chemical route unless it gets covered in carbonate that won't come off with elbow grease. I reckon the position of the heating element would be crucial in keeping it clean.
Shanna
I have a buffalo boiler, i have had issue with it cutting out if not cleaned well but i have to say i love the one i have. Requires no work at all if you dont want to. I eventually added a good tap but you can get away just fine with the stock one. Its a really handy size, not too expensive and great for BIAB.
I also have a 36l pot that i heat using gas, it does the job fine but i rather use the buffalo.
Thanks for the comments lads. I suppose cleaning off scorched wort is going to be an issue whether the element is concealed or not. I'd no idea the elements don't react well to chemicals.
Rukkus, I've been tempted by the Buffalo before. In fact, I was thinking of using it as a boiler first then I'd always have the option of re-commissioning it as a HLT if I went down the stainless/fv boiler/keggle route. (There's a really good thread on JBK on how to add a bulkhead & ball valve tap to the Buffalo). Did you bypass the thermostat in yours?
The turkey fryer/propane setup looks excellent but I think I'd get sick of fetching re-fill gas bottles.
For those that have converted fermenters to boilers - would a 6" or 12" bazooka strainer work better? I'm thinking the 12" would allow a quicker runoff of the wort and less chance of clogging.
What's the optimum height on the FVs for the tap/strainer and the kettle elements? I presume the kettle elements should be an inch or two above the tap?
Another question: if I get a bulkhead fitting, I'd like to have a disconnect for the bazooka strainer (for easy cleaning). Which disconnect do I get, the male or female?
Cheers.
I'm not sure about bazookas, cheap and cheerful, but they can clog up an need some agitation to get going again.
Google 'hop stopper' for an alternative.
Even the 12" ones? Hmm. What about the more traditional perforated copper tube?
The Hop Stopper looks mad. Large surface area being the idea I suppose.
Yep i added a nice bulkhead and bazooka eventually. But a hop bag and the stock tap did me just fine for ages.
Nope i didn't bypass anything electrical. I've heard of people having cut out issues but mine seems to be ok after a good clean. I've also had it cut out due to thermal switch cutting out on the extension cord. That was due to me not unwrapping the cord enough lol. Nothing to do with the buffalo but goes to show how much heat electricity can generate ;)
I know lars also has a buffalo but i think he might have disabled the thermo switch. Might be worth popping him a dm for some info you you are thinking along the lines of a buffalo.
Quote
For those that have converted fermenters to boilers - would a 6" or 12" bazooka strainer work better? I'm thinking the 12" would allow a quicker runoff of the wort and less chance of clogging.
What's the optimum height on the FVs for the tap/strainer and the kettle elements? I presume the kettle elements should be an inch or two above the tap?
Cheers.
Directly opposite each other to give a good boil, put the tap in the middle, I put the first at 1.5" off the floor and the second 2.5" just for differential agitation during boil.
Have you considered a hop spider? works just as well as chucking in to the boiler and probably better as they are constantly flushed from the active part of the boil at the surface.
(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj605/joctcl/IMG_1036.jpg)
(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj605/joctcl/IMG_1037.jpg)
I converted a 33 l fv into a boiler - 2 elements few inches up from bottom - one peice if advice - keep ur tap and hop strainer as low as possible + mines a little high and I haven't sealed horned copper right so usually have a few litres at the end that o have saucepan and sieve into the fv
I did get a keg and hole sawed te element and. Tap fittings but couldn't stop leaks.so got the fv and converted haven't tried the keg since !!
Not having the element in the kettle and having the connected problems is why I have gone on the journey of having my element outside the pot,thus only having a clean Stainless Steel pot to clean after each boil.
Nice photos Ciderhead. Very crafty indeed. How does that gizmo work with pellets?
QuoteI converted a 33 l fv into a boiler - 2 elements few inches up from bottom - one peice if advice - keep ur tap and hop strainer as low as possible + mines a little high and I haven't sealed horned copper right so usually have a few litres at the end that o have saucepan and sieve into the fv
I did get a keg and hole sawed te element and. Tap fittings but couldn't stop leaks.so got the fv and converted haven't tried the keg since !!
Cheers man. I've bitten the bullet on this anyway and abandoned the idea of going shiny. Got my bulkhead tap, bazooka screen etc. ordered so I'll be going down the road of converting the FV after all.
Anyone know whether the Youngs or the Hambleton-Bard fermenters are better suited to boilers? Thicker walls on one or the other?
QuoteNot having the element in the kettle and having the connected problems is why I have gone on the journey of having my element outside the pot,thus only having a clean Stainless Steel pot to clean after each boil.
That sounds like an interesting setup Brian. Any links or pics?
QuoteNice photos Ciderhead. Very crafty indeed. How does that gizmo work with pellets?
no clue, I dont like pellets doirty horrible things like horse nuts!!
Anyway with the last group buy on hops I still have 800g in my freezer ;D
I save my pellets for dry hopping.
Only joking pellets break up in very small particulate size so although you would keep most in the spider but a lot of the fine stuff would get through, the basic copper below is just in case I have a disaster and loose it in it, not happened in 20 boils but I was a boy scout
(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj605/joctcl/photo1-1.jpg)
who was complaining of leaks, used LDPE washers you find in plumbers merchants or woodies.
Also make you own out of one of her silicon baking trays, the ones that replaced traditional tins
(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj605/joctcl/photo1.jpg)
(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj605/joctcl/photo2.jpg)
Quote
who was complaining of leaks, used LDPE washers you find in plumbers merchants or woodies.
Would the plumbers tape be an acceptable substitute for the washers?
Where did you get those elements? Ripped out of a kettle?
Ok so Ciderhead thats a boiler but what do ye make yere mash tuns out of? Bucket fermenter again?
QuoteQuoteNot having the element in the kettle and having the connected problems is why I have gone on the journey of having my element outside the pot,thus only having a clean Stainless Steel pot to clean after each boil.
That sounds like an interesting setup Brian. Any links or pics?
You can follow what I am doing here with my kettle.
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1361834396
QuoteAnyone know whether the Youngs or the Hambleton-Bard fermenters are better suited to boilers? Thicker walls on one or the other?
Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
QuoteYoungs are a bit thicker, but I wouldn't say there's a huge difference. I use Youngs as kettle and HLT with no problems.
Cheers Tube.
@Ciderhead,
Just a heads up on the jubilee clip you use to hold the bag to your hop spider. It would be better if it was replaced with a stainless steel clip, or even with cable ties. The clip you use is galvanized. The zinc coating on galvanize would not be considered food safe. While zinc is an important mineral to not be deficient in, excess zinc is not a good thing at all. Worse, however, is if free zinc is ingested by mouth. When swallowed, it becomes zinc chloride when it reacts with stomach acid. Zinc chloride is very corrosive to stomach lining. You might like not to have to worry about that.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_toxicity
Apart from that, the spider is a cool idea.
/J
JD you are absolutely right and even though it wasn't in direct contact with liquid, steam was condensing and dropping back into my brews, so after the second brew with it I got a stainless one on fleabay
I also got rid of the galvanised bolts that were sitting on the side in favour of this design with qualpex pipe and with rebar sealed inside the pipe(Melted the ends) for strength it wasnt strong enough to support weight on the bucket
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFxuooOKe4o