Looking for help here. I have a 12v valve that is operated by first applying the current (2 wires) to open it and then you have to reverse the current to close it. Cannot seam to put a name on the switch that I need for to be able to do this.
Something like this (http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/198/58027-18/)?
That's it :), why can't the dummy behind the counter not just say that >:(. Explained what I wanted but could not put a name to it and he looks at me and says "is it in the catalogue. :'(
There was a guy in Ireland selling DPDT toggle switches on ebay a while ago. I got a few and they are fine. As long as your current is not too high.
Brian, did you finally find a valve that will open under low pressure? The ones I have will only open under mains water presseue.
I'm looking for one to control outlet from a HLT.
I picked up a 5 x Danfoss HPA2 Solenoid Valves on Freecycle recently.
Are these of interest?
Here is the valve that is connected to Igor. Pulled it down from the attic to finish building it while waiting for my fridge to come home to me ::)
Hi John, I'm looking for valves that will open and close under gravity feed pressure. I got some a while ago, 12v normally closed, which work fine for controlling mains water pressure but simply stay shut on the outlet of a tank.
The job I have in mind is to keep the mash topped up from the HLT while sparging, controlled by a float switch.
If the ones you have will do that then I'm interested. A valve like that could do all sorts of other jobs too. Getting closer to automation!
Brian, I can't read the label in the photo. What exactly is that valve?
Sorry, the yokes I have are solenoid only, no valves.
Not sure what you mean by staying shut, are your solenoids up to it?
I'm sure I said this before, but wouldn't a ballcock do the job?
Here is the valve that I bought. Power it and it stays open,reverse the current and it will shut and stay shut,reverse the power and it will open and stay open,reverse the power and..............well you get the idea. It is a full 1/2" bore and not like some of them that only have a diaphragm.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/motorized-ball-valve-G1-2-DN15-2-way-12V-electrical-valve-/271226680913?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item3f265eb651
How's that valve working out? I watch with interest.
Quote from: johnrm on August 10, 2013, 02:35:14 PM
I picked up a 5 x Danfoss HPA2 Solenoid Valves on Freecycle recently.
Are these of interest?
Link please?
Here ya go...
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/danfoss-randall-hpa2-2-port-valve-actuator-only-p-1393.html
Do you have valves too or just the actuators?
If ya don't want 'em I'll have 'em!
Just the Actuators.
I tested one.
These are 4 wire Actuators.
Apply 220v to Live and Neutral causes actuator to turn 90deg anticlockwise. Resistance changes across grey and Orange.
It takes about 30 secs to turn.
Remove power and it takes about 15 sec to return.
(I am guessing the time, I did not measure this)
They are yours but use them or pass them on and you MUST post pics.
Whereabouts are you in case there are pigeons flying?
If not, I will weigh them and check postage.
I'm in Bray. Will they work on regular ball valves?
Not easily.
The Actuators rotates a slot which is about 2mm x 10mm (guessing) so the ball valve would need a tongue more or less that size.
I'm pretty sure the last BV that I played with had an 8mm nyloc nut, and the BV handle interface was square.
Plus the Actuator needs to be mounted securely so that it does not rotate.
It would probably be better to use the complete valve that Dempsey has. I know I could adapt that actuator to fit a regular valve but I'm getting lazy in my old age (or is that sensible?). Maybe someone else will take it on? Thanks anyway John!