Hey guys, i've talked about it enough at this stage but i'm finally biting the bullet and going to start home brewing.
I've been hoarding bottles for a while now and have a nice stash there.
I was fortunate enough to get vouchers from Homebrewcompany for christmas.
I'm looking at picking up the following;
Starter Kit with 2 x 33L Fermenters (this one from Homebrewcompany https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/beer-cider-starter-kit-includes-33lt-fermenters-p-968.html (https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/beer-cider-starter-kit-includes-33lt-fermenters-p-968.html) )- One has airlock one doesn't - should i ask for both to have tap holes drilled and have airlock on the 2nd one?
As far as kits go, I was looking at the Coopers ESB. Myself and the missus both like this style and was thinking of maybe dry hopping this. Is it ok to Dry hop in the primary fermenter - as i was going to batch prime in the second.
Also i understand Spray Malt extract is the way to go not using brewing sugar etc.
Is there anything else you can suggest?
Quote from: wayneibs on January 06, 2014, 03:47:45 PM
One has airlock one doesn't - should i ask for both to have tap holes drilled and have airlock on the 2nd one?
Yes, a tap would definitely be useful on both buckets. You will probably use the second bucket for bottling so no need for the lid to be drilled for an air lock.
Quote from: wayneibs on January 06, 2014, 03:47:45 PM
Is it ok to Dry hop in the primary fermenter - as i was going to batch prime in the second.
It's fine to dry hop in the primary, just wait 7 days until the main fermentation has finished.
Quote from: wayneibs on January 06, 2014, 03:47:45 PM
Also i understand Spray Malt extract is the way to go not using brewing sugar etc.
Correct. Liquid malt extract is good too but I prefer the spray malt at the moment. Use 1kg of DME or 1.5kg of LME. 200g ish of sugar won't do the beer any harm if you want to bump up the ABV a bit.
Quote from: wayneibs on January 06, 2014, 03:47:45 PM
Is there anything else you can suggest?
A heat belt would be useful. It's kinda cold at the moment! You want the FV to be 18-20°C for the first week or so. A blanket around the fermenter will do the job too.
A hop bag is handy for dry hopping. The hops tend to clog the syphon/tap when bottling if you throw the hops in loose. I believe LordEoin uses his tights!
Keep asking questions and enjoy :)
https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/nylon-hop-boiling-bag-200-x-225mm-p-1943.html
https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/brew-belt-universal-usage-p-81.html
Id go for a second one with a taphole too.
When transferring between containers you can hook a tube from one tap to the other and gravity feed it down.
It minimizes the amount of contact with air and gives things a good mix up too ;)
LME vs DME - I prefer DME for lighter colour/flavour beers, it ferments out cleaner with less residual sweetness and colour. LME is good in darker/stronger beers.
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,681.msg6929.html#msg6929 (http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,681.msg6929.html#msg6929)
Cheers for that lads - i'll get the two FV's tapped as it'll make my life easier come bottling time.
Garry and LordEoin, thanks for your help
Kit now ordered so hopefully have it in a few days! ^-^
Great stuff. it'll be set up and bubbling away soon :)
Pick yourself up a bottle of thin bleach and a bottle of spirit vinegar from tesco too.
Diluted at 30ml bleach, 30ml vinegar, 20L water and it's a great sanitizer.
Just don't mix the bleach and vinegar neat, its poisonous.
Quote from: LordEoin on January 07, 2014, 10:27:08 PM
Great stuff. it'll be set up and bubbling away soon :)
Pick yourself up a bottle of thin bleach and a bottle of spirit vinegar from tesco too.
Diluted at 30ml bleach, 30ml vinegar, 20L water and it's a great sanitizer.
Just don't mix the bleach and vinegar neat, its poisonous.
What he means is:
Take 20 litres of water add 30ml bleach, stir, add 30ml vinegar and stir. Now you are done.
Mix the 2 together neat and you will release Chlorine gas! Not Good
Yeah i read that - lethal stuff
Is that a no rinse santizer? Or would I have to rinse off.
Quote from: wayneibs on January 08, 2014, 03:13:16 PM
Yeah i read that - lethal stuff
Is that a no rinse santizer? Or would I have to rinse off.
No rinse.
only takes about 10-15 seconds to do the job too.
just as good as starsan.
Are you sure there's no need to rinse? That's what has been putting me off using the bleach/vinegar mix.
Remember your tap water isn't sterile, you could potentially undo all your hard work by rinsing with it.
If you were really worried you could use boiling water to rinse I suppose.
It's no rinse because the blend of these 2 added to the water changes the PH to a point that kills off any Lurgeebeans :). Once drained it leaves the surface area clean and sterile.
It's the possibility of getting some kind of chlorine or vinegar off-flavours that worry me. Reassure me!
Don't do it Dunkel, their beer already tastes like vinegar, they can't tell the difference ;D
Mix up a pint glass of it, dump it, fill it with tap water and taste. You'll not notice.
W5 after years of pushing back I have just about come around to, nothing, nothing will ever replace my SS(2 years supply in the cupboard), and that other stuff is for my chips and the jacks ;)
You stick bleach on your chips? :P
You piss Vinegar? :o
Only when I've been drinking Heineken.
:o
Ok, this is more confusing.
So the bleach/vinegar is no rinse. I unserstand Star San is also.
From what i've read the home made is as good, i'm assuming to minimise potential impact that the bottles particularly are bone dry when bottling
Bleach and vinegar is as good, but reminds me too much of school dinners, I hope Craig isn't reading.
grand.
So thin bleach, and white vinegar. Seems a little too easy
Not as easy as (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/09/eju5uqum.jpg)
Ok I admit it I'm a Homebrew doomsday preper
A little bit of common sense may ber needed hers:
Tap water from the hkitchen sink in city suppky is sage to drink. It has been chlorinated to EU levels and is safe to drink etc.
Starsan is a FG brewing treatment that contains Phosphoric Acid (no percepable taste other than acidic) and a surfacant ( dodecylbenzenesulphonic acid) - assumed no percepatable taste. It is stated as "no-rinse" for countrys where the water is NOT FG!
Homemade Bleach/Vinegar: Both have serious taste issues and are regarded as major faults if they are detected in beers (unless you want a chlorinated oxy-acidified cider).
What make you think that the Chlorine bleach you buy in the super market is food grade? :o
By all means use B/V mix but IMHO rinse with mains tap water!
HTH
Quote from: CH on January 08, 2014, 09:55:03 PM
Ok I admit it I'm a Homebrew doomsday preper
So that's why there's a SS shortage in .ie land
How much for a 100 ml fix boss?
PS: When it comes to doomsday why worry about long term sanitation? The thirsty masses will just drink anything thats a week old and alcoholic.
Re. D'day Prepers: Reminds me: Must start the "most applicable weapon for a home brewer come the Zombie invasion" thread
I'll prob buy some Starsan with my next purchases, but i just wanted to know the bleach/vinegar mix was ok
Got the email confirming i'll have my new toys tomorrow, can't wait!
yeah, it's fine. if you want to be really anal about it, give a quick rinse afterwards with preboiled water from the kettle.
I hope your kit comes soon :)
I'm into my third brew now and had the same questions as yourself at the start. It's great that there is guys on this forum to answer questions like these.
I've used the bleach - vinegar - water mix so far and havent tasted anything off in my brews.
You are the only one that has tasted them :D
Are you coming to Hollands in a couple of weeks to share?
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,5252.0.html
Go on then, you've twisted my arm, I'd better pop down so.
I presume its ok to just rock up to Hollands then, do I need to bring anything?
Quote from: fishjam45 on January 09, 2014, 08:46:54 PM
Go on then, you've twisted my arm, I'd better pop down so.
I presume its ok to just rock up to Hollands then, do I need to bring anything?
You need to bring about 1-2 bottles of your beer and your wallet! only joking new members in Wicklow get a free pint.
cool, I'll bring some bottles of my first brew down so.
Missus about to pop any day now so I'm on call and driving for the foreseable . . . I'm sure I'll manage to taste a beers otherwise I'll be on the alkoholfrei Erdingers!! :-[ :-[ :-[
My stuff has arrived! :)
Going to brew up this batch tomorrow - one other q - the airlock, when does that go on the FV?
Wayne spend 30 mins watching early vids from craigtube on youtube, it will be time well spent.
To answer your question from the very start.
i've watched a fair few of his vids. They're very good.
itching to get cracking
Don't use ordinary tap water in it use alcohol or starsan, that way if it gets sucked back in no damage done
Crack the lid if the bucket if moving it around to prevent same
Finally got to it today - now sitting in the FV in the corner of the living room.
OG was 1.053 (is that a little on the high side?) before I pitched the yeast. At 20C.
I also added 1KG of Light Dry Malt Extract, and 200G of Sugar to bump up ABV
That does sound a bit high alright. if it's a coopers kit that mix should be somewhere around 1.042.
Nevermind, it will be fine :)
Check your hydrometer in water at 20C, it should read 1.000. if not it might be a bum hydrometer.
Which kit did you go for in the end?
I went with the coopers English Bitter - going to dry hop it with cascade.
The hydro reading was 1.00 in water. It is also possible i misread it - it could have been 1.05 as i may have read it at the high point of the surface rather than the bottom.
Its currently snuggly wrapped in a blanket in the living room, at 20C hopefully come home to some bubbling this evening.
Good stuff, best of luck with it :)
Bubbling away nicely - was ticking along lovely this morning before i left the house.
The FV is currently on the floor, but i was going to put on a little foot stool so i can take samples when checking the readings, i've read i should crack it open as to not have the liquid from the airlock fall in is that true?
In terms of quantity for hops, its looking like leaf cascade or pellet summit, is 30G too much or be just right.
Quote from: wayneibs on January 14, 2014, 09:23:10 AM
..., i've read i should crack it open as to not have the liquid from the airlock fall in is that true?
Yes, this is where the 2 piece airlock is great - you just lift the lid up clear of the liquid so you can run out a test sample.
If its a one piece then either crack the lid slightly or just go very slowly!
Slowly and steady wins the race!
i find that with the usual 100ml trial jar you're good to just tap it.
there's pressure in there to make up for it.
It'd probably be better to get a bit of reverse action in the airlock than to open the FV unnecessarily.
Thanks, i'll lift it into place once the bubbling stops
only being lifted a foot.
Thanks for all the help
Sorry, i totally misread the previous posts.
yeah, if you're lifting the FV just take out the airlock and refit it once the beer's in its final resting place ;)
Its one of these airlocks
(https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/bmz_cache/3/329865b48d04abc114abc1ffe43373bb.image.159x213.jpg)
I assume i just yank it out - move the bucket and replace or do i empty out the liquid and refill when on the fv?
Still bubbling away this morning
Once initial fermentation is finished - then i dry hop and leave it for another 5 days or so, will the beer clear up during this time? Should i move it somewhere cooler when dryhopping?
yank it out,move the bucket, replace. Yup
The beer will only slightly clear up in the FV, it'll do most of its clearing in the bottle.
You can move it somewhere cooler if you're sure fermentation is finished. but i'd say leave the temperature stable this time just to be sure you don't go stopping the yeast prematurely. You have all the time in the world for best practices, but for this run just get it fermented, dryhopped and bottles without anything going wrong.
You're doing good so far :)
Grand.
Guessing when conditioning the bottles should they done at the same temp or are they ok in a slightly cooler location?
Ideally keep the bottles at 18-20° for two weeks to carbonate. They will carbonate at lower temps but will take longer. You're new to this game and won't possess such patience :P
Once carbonated, leave them some where cold for as long as you can. The longer you leave them, the clearer the beer will get.
I've read that dry hopping works better at fermentation temperatures rather than cool temperatures? I've dry hopped a few beers in the garage where it averages 10°C at the moment.
You guys are a great help.
Yeah it'll be tough to resist the opening of a few bottles but i want it to be good so hopefully they'll be ok by Paddys weekend. That should be 6 weeks or so bottle conditioning.
I've got my hands on some summit or cascade - I think cascade's the winner as i love me some Sierra Pale and Bru Rua which are both made with cascade.
Already looking forward to my next kit, probably the IPA so its all ready for our summer.
I found on my first brew, mainly due to a lack of patience, that it can be a good idea to "sample" a brew from your batch each week. I was told by the very helpful guys on here to wait as long as I could because it will get better with age, but with sampling one each week you will see how the flavour and taste develops from something thats "drinkable" to something that has you mates asking "wow, did you really make that?". Thats how it was for me anyway.
That's a good point too man, fair play.
keep a bottle for 3 months, 6 months and 12 months too ;)
Another great suggestion.
Anyway came home today a lot less activity on the bubbler
So took the opportunity to move and do a reading.
Reading is 1.012. Came down quicker than I expected.
Bubbler back bubbling away now, guess thats just cos the yeasties were moved a bit.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6RLpv1vjdlQ/UtgnNWoSbCI/AAAAAAAACM8/3apD-oAHbEU/w426-h568/20140116_182019.jpg)
Quote from: LordEoin on January 16, 2014, 01:18:56 AM
keep a bottle for 3 months, 6 months and 12 months too ;)
I really doubt any of mine will last 12 months ;)
Quote from: IrishBeerSnob on January 16, 2014, 06:41:10 PM
Reading is 1.012. Came down quicker than I expected.
That's still in full swing, leave it alone ;)
@fishjam - put one some where inconvenient and forget all about it!
Aye aye captain
The bubbling is non existent now. Im assuming its still working away just not as vigorously.
Ok tonights reading is also 1.012.
Dryhop it this weekend and bottle it next weekend. It might still drop another couple of points over the week.
I know you're itching to get going, but patience is one of the most important ingredients :)
Ah i realise patience is essential.
I've had a sip of the wort, i'm assuming the flavour develops as its conditioning.
Gonna dry hop this afternooon or tomorrow. Just have to get me hops.
Yes the flavor develops with age, the fizz will make it very different too.
At the moment it's flat warm beer, not very good.
I think my hydrometer is off by 0.02, I tested at 20C today with water and reading was 1.02? Is that possible/common?
Anyway as the readings have been the same the last three days, i've dry hopped today.
I went with 15g of Cascade Leaf, and 15g of Summit pellets.
The plan now is to leave well alone and bottle next saturday.
When it comes to priming - i've a second bucket, how much sugar should I be using for this?
Quote from: IrishBeerSnob on January 18, 2014, 05:32:39 PM
I think my hydrometer is off by 0.02, I tested at 20C today with water and reading was 1.02? Is that possible/common?
If you do mean 1.020 the you are off by 20 points - that is a massive error (like 40% on a typical beer). Time for a new hydrometer!
If you meant 1.002 then 2 is not so bad just subtract it if you want an absolute reading, if you want a gravity drop then just subtract the 2 uncorrceted readings!
HTH
Sorry yeah i forgot the extra 0.
Thanks, its only a new one with the kit i got - good to know. So that means OG was 1.050.
It'll be fine. you'll still have the same gap from OG to FG :)
I'd probably prime this at 6 grams per liter. If you like fizzy +1, less fizzy -1
Gonna bottle this tomorrow.
So 6g / ltr - 23 x 6 = 138g sugar for priming
Do i boil this sugar in water then put into the bottling bucket?
I'm going to syphon it in from the FV then bottle from there.
Once bottled store at similar temp as fermenting for 2 weeks, then move to cooler area to condition
Have i missed anything?
Did you leave your hops in until you bottled or did you take them out a few days before bottling?
sounds good beersnob :)
Hops still in the bag in the FV
Is there an amount of water i should use?
good stuff . . . let us know how it turns out.
Quote from: IrishBeerSnob on January 25, 2014, 02:40:48 PM
Hops still in the bag in the FV
Is there an amount of water i should use?
you mean for the priming sugar? a half pint should do it, whatever you can dissolve the sugar with :)
Ah yeah i got that for the priming
Its all bottled now resting in the room at a cosy 20c
Can't wait to taste em!
Patience is definitely the hardest ingredient
Bottled now 5 days - just wanna pop one to see
I know they'll be better if we wait
try one anyway ;)
I'll probably pop one tonight. :P
Currently planning my next batch - thinking of doing the Hefeweizen / Shock Top beer recipe thats there.
Also i'm looking at brewing up an IPA style, was thinking of the Australian Pale Ale with 1.5Kg can and dry hop with amarillo and cascade. I'm looking at also using US Ale yeast too. The hope is to have this conditioned and ready for the summer!
Shocktop is a tasty beer, easy to make, and conditions fast.
If you're planning on making an IPA, why not start off an IPA base?
That way your colour and bitterness should be spot on and you can concentrate on learning about dryhopping.
The APA with Amarillo+cascade works very well with a hop steep (a cup of hop tea added on day 1).
Very easy and very tasty.
True, though a few pics i've seen of the IPA kit seem a little dark
Figured the APA was a lighter colour.
Hop tea? This where you boil the hops and pour the water in to the fermenter yes?
And of course you can still dry hop this too?
yup, just put the hops in a bowl, pour in a liter of boiling water, let it steep and cool for 30 minutes, stain into FV.
Very simple way to do your first bit of hopping, with great results :)
Yes, you could still dry hop if you want
Had a bottle last night. A bit young n cloudy but will improve with time.
christ that first picture scared me, however I looked at it I thought it was an inverted demijohn... ;D ;D
That looks fine and will clear itself up over the next 3 weeks or so.
Surprising amount of head for such a young beer.
Most importantly, how does it smell, taste and feel?
Ha, yeah.
If im honest the hop aroma isn't as strong as i would like, but you definitely taste it in the drink,
The smell is that kind of alcoholly smell, but it dies down once it settles in the glass, and it had a nice mouth feel, didn't feel too thin.
Quite happy at 5 days to be honest, a satisfying hiss when the cap popped, and it will only get better with age. Hopefully be quite drinkable for paddy's weekend!
Ok, so second set of stuff order - just need more 500ml Bottles!
Kit 1: Coopers Wheat Kit with 1KG Wheat DME, Carapils, Sugar, WB06 Yeast
Kit 2: Coopers IPA Kit with 1KG Light DME, Safale S05 Yeast, Amarillo, Summit and Cascade hops for hop tea - then dry hop with Amarillo and Cascade.
Can't wait!
Quote from: IrishBeerSnob on February 05, 2014, 12:00:36 PM
Ok, so second set of stuff order - just need more 500ml Bottles!
i have spare Brown 500ml btls, all washed and clean. only offered them to somebody yesterday but if they dont need them then there yours.
you should ask the pubs in Navan that sell craft beers to keep the btls for you, they return the pint btls but dump the rest afaik.
Not that many sell craft - but my FIL drinks the 500ml smithwicks bottles which are perfect, and I tend to buy a lot of 500ml myself.
I must speak to the ones that do - I've a stash of about 30 there at the moment plus a 5L minikeg too that i was thinking of repurposing.
Thanks for the offer though - I may be back to you
you could also ask the lads in the malthouse, do you drink in any of the craft bars in Dublin, i bet they have tons of them.
never be afraid to ask, worst that can happen is they say no :D
Ok, so popped another bottle for the 2 week test.
Alcohol aroma has definitely calmed down and the hop aroma a little more pronounced.
However the bottles have been resting in the living room at 18-20C and this one foamed out of the bottle after pouring.
Doesn't feel overly fizzy on the palate though.
Definitely will need time to clear as its quite cloudy still.
Did you have it in the fridge first or was it 18-20c when you opened it?
not at fridge temp - sat in a diff room a little cooler.
Should i chuck one in the fridge and try tomorrow?
yes, cooling the beer will trap the co2 in and make it less 'foamy' when pouring.
Ok, so i'm gonna continue to condition in a warmish room,
then chill the bottles before consumption.
Ok, so i'd one last night from the fridge, much much better, still very well carbonated and foamy but that was probably due to my pouring rather than anything else.
Clearing up nicely compared to a week ago, and can imagine it will only improve with age.
They might just be a bit overcarbonated too.
Open the bottle and let it sit a while to waste out some Co2 before pouring.
Also make sure your glass is clean
Yeah it was nice, i'm gonna move em some where cooler now so i'm not continually looking at them and get cracking with my 2nd brew - IPA Kit by coopers!
Its true what they say about improving with age - had one after 1 month in the bottle
Much better - developing nicely, i probably over did the priming sugar as its very fizzy.
But for my first brew - very happy with the results.
Now brewing the Orange Hefe
Good stuff, sip on!