National Homebrew Club Ireland

Thought I might start a thread to share my experience of building an electric brewery clone.

I've been collecting parts since about March last year, but haven't put anything together yet. I suspect maybe end of this month I will commence build on the panel, and hopefully over Feb / March actually put it all together and have a functioning clone.

Anyway, thought I would just include some recent purchases that might be of interest to everyone.

First up is the Silicon hosing. I watched the last group buy and thought it was good, but for those looking to go it alone I found the following quite good:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone-Dairy-Tubing-Milking-Transfer-Hose-12mm-ID-x-21mm-OD-x-20mtrs-BNIB-/221180341975?pt=UK_BOI_FarmingEquipment_RL&hash=item337f602ed7

It was roughly 65 euro, 3.25 euro a meter. This was the best value I could find for tubing with this wall thickness.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3422_zpscd771b64.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3422_zpscd771b64.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3427_zpsc31810b8.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3427_zpsc31810b8.jpg.html)

I also spent a significant amount of time searching for quick disconnects as used on the Electric Brewery. Pretty expensive stuff here in Ireland and although reasonable from the US websites still more than what I wanted to pay.

So I found this site: http://www.aikecoupling.com/Products-489.html

I was looking at the ZJ-KB in stainless steel but they didn't have any in stock, so they suggested brass, which I declined. Minimum order was 200 for stainless, but I reckon as a group buy you could get an order of 100. They are BSP thread. So I asked what did they have in stock in stainless and I ended up with the ZJ-KC type, which is similar enough except in NPT. So I'm going to go NPT for the rest of the fittings in the next month or so.

So costs: The price of ZJ-KC-04-SF was USD5.50/piece, and of ZJ-KC-04-PM was USD3.50/piece. I reckon again a group buy would get that cost down.

The quality is really good. Pictures below.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3429_zps7ada8295.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3429_zps7ada8295.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3431_zps15e4c1fa.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3431_zps15e4c1fa.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3430_zps0f2d5dcf.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3430_zps0f2d5dcf.jpg.html)


I dealt with a guy called Frank at AikeCoupling. The customer service was brilliant. I paid a fair bit in shipping but overall it was cheaper than buying off the US websites or here in Ireland. I had to do a bank transfer (AIB online banking worked perfectly for this) and once they confirmed receipt of the monies, they were shipped straight away - DHL express - I think they left China on the Friday and I had them by the Monday.

Well, I hope this helps some people on the forum looking to do this.

I'll keep this updated as I go along. I have all the heating elements x 3 (Camco 5500watt), the 3 x Bergland Kettles (I'm not doing a thermopot), PIDs (Auber), False Bottom (Blichmann), Pumps x 2 (Chugger centre inlet) amongst other equipment.

I'm happy to post more pictures of any of the stuff I have if it helps anyone.

Cheers.....

It's a pity you didn't read Damos post on pharma grade silicone tubing and pharma clamp disconnects, the ones you have are hydraulic disconnects, used for connecting transfer to injection moulding tools they are not for contact with foodstuffs neither are the gaskets food approved, you should be able to change them anyway.
Damo still has more tubing than you can shake a stick at in what ever lengths you want and it was a third of that price :o
Members also get a discount on the disconnects.
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,4559.msg56681.html#msg56681

Very interested in the rest of your build. :)

Hiya oz,

I've followed a few electric brewery builds over the last couple of years.

Lookin forward to this one! I think Barney has set the bench mark.
Best of luck.

Keep the pic's coming

@CH

Yeah, I saw the Damo thread and the silicon hose buy. My understanding was that hosing was 3mm wall thickness and I thought the buy was at 2 euro a metre. I wanted a thicker wall, 9mm on this hosing, and which is more in line with EB build. I rang microhydraulics for hosing with this wall thickness and the price, if I recall correctly, was ridiculously expensive.

As to the quick disconnects. I didn't want to go down the cam lock route. Again, I rang MH and Norgren and a few others explaining what I wanted. They offered the Parker snap tite disconnects at over 25 euro a pop for just the female part. They all list them as hydraulic fittings but they did inform me they are also used in food processing. I discussed this with the supplier in China as well and from my research on the US websites these are the same fittings being sold there. I feel comfortable enough with them for the brewing process.

@Damo
Yes Barney's build was spectacular. I won't have as many bells and whistles, but I will be running three PIDs and two timers for back to back capability. I'm designing the panel to be rated at 63amps. I have a panel layout which I'll post up in the next day or two.

Droool! Keep the pics coming Oz :D

Quote from: Ozbrewer on January 07, 2014, 10:59:41 PM
@CH

Yeah, I saw the Damo thread and the silicon hose buy. My understanding was that hosing was 3mm wall thickness and I thought the buy was at 2 euro a metre. I wanted a thicker wall, 9mm on this hosing, and which is more in line with EB build. I rang microhydraulics for hosing with this wall thickness and the price, if I recall correctly, was ridiculously expensive.

As to the quick disconnects. I didn't want to go down the cam lock route. Again, I rang MH and Norgren and a few others explaining what I wanted. They offered the Parker snap tite disconnects at over 25 euro a pop for just the female part. They all list them as hydraulic fittings but they did inform me they are also used in food processing. I discussed this with the supplier in China as well and from my research on the US websites these are the same fittings being sold there. I feel comfortable enough with them for the brewing process.

I have also done my homework on disconnects and gained a lot of info from UK forums about rusting Chinese disconnects and I am also fortunate to have the option of folks being able to bring bits in from the US, in my case however I will be using MH as although they are more expensive for cam locks (which will be my route as that's what I see on commercial brewery visits) v's the US the product quality is unquestionable.

Unfortunately ebay and particularly Chinese vendors are full of false statements about what approvals their products have, we have already seen that here on contact with plastic.
The question that keeps coming up is how much is actually in contact and really does it make any difference?
Being used in the food industry and being in direct contact with and carrying of foodstuffs are two very different things.
I knew very little about steel until I came to this forum and learnt that only 304 and 316 types are approved for conveyance and in direct contact.
I can't see the specification sheet of the disconnects you purchased on that website, but the ones I did look at are all carbon steel, so neither of those two and therefore better to err on the side of caution and it would be wrong to recommend them for contact with foodstuffs. :(

Keep the pics coming tho  8)

Thanks for the encouragement everyone.

The panel layout I have designed is below. I used a program called InkScape - www.inkscape.org - it's freeware, very simple to use, especially if I managed it. Although I used SESTOS pids in the layout diagram, the ones I actually have are the Auberins PIDs.

I will be running two elements in the HLT. I know this is controversial, but I am using the HLT as the HERMS, so two elements will give me the power and speed to ramp temperatures sufficiently. I just felt this was a simple solution and I realise I am trading increased power costs as a result. I'll have two 5500watt camco ULWD elements in the HLT. But the panel will be designed that if both elements in the HLT are on, the element in the BK can't be on. This keeps the functionality/capacity within the 63amp range and can't be exceeded. The panel will be 600mmx600mmx200mm.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/BreweryPanelLayout_zpsbb00570a.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/BreweryPanelLayout_zpsbb00570a.jpg.html)

Omg a thing of beauty:)

Quote from: Ozbrewer on January 08, 2014, 08:17:21 PM
I'll have two 5500watt camco ULWD elements in the HLT. But the panel will be designed that if both elements in the HLT are on, the element in the BK can't be on. This keeps the functionality/capacity within the 63amp range and can't be exceeded.

That's a serious power draw! Hope the lads at the ESB don't come knocking!

Best of luck with the build, I'm working on an electric brewery too; I'm in the process of building up shiny plumbing for my brew vessels before I tackle the control panel

Impressive, cant wait to see the progress on the job.

It's been awhile since the last post. Not much progress due to life and funds. I did purchase last week all my shiny plumbing for the system. Not cheap at all. I bought from Stainless Brewing in the US as they were they only company that did a HERMS stainless steel coil at 1/2 inch and 50ft at under $100US. So I figured I may as well get the rest of the fittings from there as well. So I have the whole system in NPT now.

But I did make some progress this weekend on the brew stand. Tops still to be completed and then stained and varnished. But I'm well chuffed with this. Some of the joins aren't the best, but the main thing is it is all square, level, and very sturdy. I've attached photo's.

Main wood is: 144mm x 40mm
Legs: 75mm x 75mm

Overall length is 1800mm, with height at 750mm. Height will increase, 22mm for the top and probably 70mm for casters I'm planning on. That would give overall height of 842mm. I tested the kettles at that height, and I can comfortably see in and also reach in and touch/clean bottom of kettles.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/photo1_zps0dfa5705.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/photo1_zps0dfa5705.jpg.html)
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/photo2_zpsb5fd55cb.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/photo2_zpsb5fd55cb.jpg.html)
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/photo3_zps4dc9abc1.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/photo3_zps4dc9abc1.jpg.html)
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/photo4_zps0756720c.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/photo4_zps0756720c.jpg.html)

Advice on building the stand:
- Understand the overall length you want, take into considerations the width of the wood you will use for the top, and then adjust length of stand to suit an full number of planks for the top. I hope that makes sense.
- Measure everything at least twice before cutting or drilling. I did make one mistake but lucky had enough wood to cut another piece.
- Don't take your kids shopping when you go to pick up bolts, nuts and washers. I counted too short on the washers, and over counted on the coach screws. Or better still, work out it before you go, write it down and then go shopping.  :-[

Anyway. Just thought I would share. Any questions, let me know.

You might want to consider putting a few diagonals between the uprights.
It might seem solid now, but when you have those tanks full of water it'll eventually start to sway and weaken.

That is sweet. What are you going to use for the top? It's a quare size for plywood!

Are you planning on putting a shelf at the bottom level? It would give you some great storage for your bits and bobs.

I don't think you need bracing myself, the 140 deep joists look oversized relative to the height of the table. The top will add further lateral and longitudinal stability. There's a rule in engineering: if it looks wrong, it probably is wrong. This looks right to my eyes.

I originally built mine using a table but with the usual bit of spillage found the under shelf part getting fooked so decided to build 3 separate tables to sit my pots on that way I can clean easier ::).

Lecce question for yis all. A standard electric kettle has an element fitted to the floor of the kettle and so not directly in contact with the liquid inside. Can this be adapted up to do a larger kettle :-\.

@Garry - I got the wood from Brooks in Bluebell. For the top and the underneath shelf I'm looking at planed white wood (same type already used), they have planks 22mm x 200mm. I could do shorter width, but I like the idea of wider planks for some reason.

@Eoin - I had figured with the current strength and then adding the shelf and top it will further strengthen. I'm not a carpenter or engineer, and it is massively solid at the moment. Thanks for the advice though.

6x2 planed will be more than adequate across a 6ft span (sorry, you're not dragging me into the next century with your fancy millimeters). You could bathe your kids in the HLT and still it won't creak.

Nice purple wig, BTW.

Hi OzBrewer

I was wondering if you have built your hlt yet? Will the 2*5.5kw be too much for a single vessel? I have a 50 litre kettle with one of these 5.5kw camco heating elements. I can get a full kettle upto boiling in under an hour and i am wondering whether you will need all the juice? I had an electrician fit the element using electrical junction boxes to house the wiring of the element and he used heavy duty steel sheathed guard cable. I find it works well but it is a tad cumbersome to move around..

Your hlt is going to have more wattage than a domestic electric shower. My basic uunderstanding is that most domestic supplies will only allow a single electric shower in a property as having two running at the same time would overload the power supply. I wonder have you considered what impact running your two 5.5kw elements will have on the rest of your property.

Shanna

PS: Don't forget your earths when doing the hlt.

Quote from: Ozbrewer on January 08, 2014, 08:17:21 PM
Thanks for the encouragement everyone.

The panel layout I have designed is below. I used a program called InkScape - www.inkscape.org - it's freeware, very simple to use, especially if I managed it. Although I used SESTOS pids in the layout diagram, the ones I actually have are the Auberins PIDs.

I will be running two elements in the HLT. I know this is controversial, but I am using the HLT as the HERMS, so two elements will give me the power and speed to ramp temperatures sufficiently. I just felt this was a simple solution and I realise I am trading increased power costs as a result. I'll have two 5500watt camco ULWD elements in the HLT. But the panel will be designed that if both elements in the HLT are on, the element in the BK can't be on. This keeps the functionality/capacity within the 63amp range and can't be exceeded. The panel will be 600mmx600mmx200mm.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/BreweryPanelLayout_zpsbb00570a.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/BreweryPanelLayout_zpsbb00570a.jpg.html)

Looks sexy
biggest issue you may have is responsiveness of the herms coil, in the US they all run their large coils through HLT and give it socks but this is subject to massive under and over runs even when you throw the kitchen sink at it in terms of juice
The uk brewers have all switched across to small coils in small boilers of the 2-8l size, asparagus pots, with elements and or lots using kettles on 25l set ups.
The theory behind this is that like a hot air ballon short shots of heat work better if you want more accurate control than a storage heater.
As well as responsive instant heat transfer this will also be influenced by power of your pump and ability to pass efficiently through your coil,
My advice here is save your pennies for a chugger or March pump.

Quote from: Shanna on March 18, 2014, 09:33:34 PM
Hi OzBrewer

I was wondering if you have built your hlt yet? Will the 2*5.5kw be too much for a single vessel? I have a 50 litre kettle with one of these 5.5kw camco heating elements. I can get a full kettle upto boiling in under an hour and i am wondering whether you will need all the juice? I had an electrician fit the element using electrical junction boxes to house the wiring of the element and he used heavy duty steel sheathed guard cable. I find it works well but it is a tad cumbersome to move around..

Your hlt is going to have more wattage than a domestic electric shower. My basic uunderstanding is that most domestic supplies will only allow a single electric shower in a property as having two running at the same time would overload the power supply. I wonder have you considered what impact running your two 5.5kw elements will have on the rest of your property.

Shanna

I reckon the second element is a back up, plus Mira showers are rated at 10kW, and operate ok on a 45Amp RCBO trip switch, if you switch one element one and toggle the other one on and off as required, then it should be fine, banging the 2 elements on at the same time to start with, might trip the breaker

PS: Don't forget your earths when doing the hlt.

Ok - to answer the questions on the HLT and the power draw.

Firstly, this rig is being modelled on the Electric Brewery by Kal. I'm sure most people here are familiar with this.

I want to be able to step mash, and I want steps to occur fairly rapidly. I want the rig to be built also to be capable of back to back brews. So in a single day, I could do a lager with steps, and then follow with an ale.

To be able to do a double batch lager, with say 55 litres at end of boil, I want to be able to bring the HLT water up to step temps in as short a time as possible - hence the two elements.

My brother-in-law is an electrician by trade, and his friend is a domestic electrician, and I have another friend who is also a domestic electrician. So, after having asked all of them the same question ad nauseam, the recommendation is a sub-board off the main fuse. The sub-board will be rated to 63amps. I don't have an electric heating shower, our hot water is heated via our gas boiler. The shower unit I have has a pump, but I don't believe that will draw much power in amps. The only other things I run are two fridges, the tv, computer and lights.

So, after looking at the amp usage against all that and having the brewery run, I shouldn't trip anything....provided of course there is no dishwasher, washing machine or drier running at the same time. I have an understanding wife and with some prior planning, I should be able to avoid any conflict regarding these things.  ::).  I mostly brew on Saturday or Sunday day time when these things aren't in use anyway.

Regarding the over/under-runs and stable temperatures. This should not be a problem. With a properly designed system with proper components it won't be an issue. I'm using Auber PIDs. The PIDs, once tuned, will control the elements in such a way that they will maintain a stable and accurate temperature of the liquid that they are controlling; this is due to the algorithm built into the PID that will monitor temp rises and turn the elements on and off automatically is it gets closer to target and whilst at target. In this instance, a PID will control the water in the HLT, and the wort will pass through the coil for heating. The coil is 50' in length. The water in the HLT will be circulated to prevent stratification. I have two (chugger) pumps, one for wort and one for water in the HLT. The pumps will run continuously during the brewing process. The temp probe on the HLT will be on the water output valve. The wort on exit of the HERMS coil, due to its length, will exit at the temperature of the HLT water. The other additional factor is the false bottom in the MT. For this I have a blichmann false bottom, and all reports on this say I can run the pumps full open to achieve maximum flow and recirculation of the wort, without sticking the mash. This is tried and tested on many systems following the Electric Brewery model.

On reading all the threads on the Electric Brewery website, HBT and even AHB, those people that are getting fluctuating temperatures have one of the following problems: not tuned the PID, not using a PID, having the temp probe at the wrong location, wrong size HERMS coil (diameter or length) or having a faulty temp probe, amongst others. The above setup does provide a stable temperature approach.

I know that in UK and Ireland it's popular to build a small separate heat exchange for the HERMS. I didn't want to go down this route. I know it works, I know it is probably cheaper in terms of cost of running. I wanted a system that was pretty straight forward and fairly contained. With this system, it means I have three kettles to manage. I know it might seem petty but I felt building a fourth kettle (regardless of size) into the process was more than I wanted to do. I liked the idea of the Electric Brewery so went down that path. Many ways to skin a cat I guess......

The elements will be housed in junction boxes, exactly like on the electric brewery. I really didn't want to go this way, but in the long run, felt it would be easier just to copy what has already been done. This way the elements will be grounded appropriately as well.
Having so many electricians around to vet the rig should ensure that is safe and viable.

Below are the photos of the Chugger pumps I have. I hope this helps explain the system a little better.


(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3403_zps21afd4fb.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3403_zps21afd4fb.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3404_zps00abc0a1.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3404_zps00abc0a1.jpg.html)

Hi Oz Brewer

Good idea to get the sparks relative to check your plans. I would be interested to see that boiler with 2 * 5.5 kw elements on the go. I have one of these & its a beast. I can imagine with two of them going it's going to be interesting. I would recommend insulating you hlt well.

Any hints re details of where, how much etc re the chugger pump?

Shanna

@Shanna - I bought direct from chugger pumps. I think about 145 US. Can't remember shipping, but I think it was like 50/60 US, could be less. I didn't get stung for duty either which was good. I have an email floating around some where as I think the actual company is "something" pumps, can't remember the exact name. PM if you want and I'll dig it out.

The other option you have, if you are interested in them is buy off a reseller, just check to make sure they are 240v version, and use www.shipito.com to ship to Ireland.

So, all my shiny fittings arrived. Well not all exactly, but the bulk. Still waiting on sight glasses and hop filter from homebrewbuilder in the UK.

I did get stung 60 euro by DHL for customs. I ordered these last week, possibly Tuesday, from Stainless Brewing in the US, got it sent to my Shipito address, and they processed within 18 hours I think, and DHL got all over to Ireland for today. I paid 90US dollars in shipping with DHL - package weight was 25.5lbs. approx. 11.5kg.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3432_zpsf5c0c793.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3432_zpsf5c0c793.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3433_zpsd0edfd76.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3433_zpsd0edfd76.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3434_zps822e03bf.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3434_zps822e03bf.jpg.html)

Looks like a Garda arms find from back in the day :-) or stainless porn !!

Sent from my ST26i using Tapatalk

Looks great. Whats the 3 90Deg and 2 135Deg 12mm pipes for. :)

@Dempsey - 90 and 45 degree tubes are for kettle pick-ups and BK return and HLT water return. I may actually have one tube too many, but that's ok.

In the BK, I will chill via a counterflow and return back to the BK until wort is down to pitching temp. That's the intent anyway. 

Tis what I do. Return wort via the counterflow until temp is at pitching temp then re direct to FV.

It's all moving really fast now. I think I said in my OP I started in March last year, but looking through the purchase history it was actually February.

Anyway, the brother-in-law was over tonight with the panel. I've taken photos as per usual.

The thing is bloody huge, and very heavy. I weighed it in at 20.2kg

We did the basic lay out and have worked out all the distances between the components etc. Hopefully on Thursday we will measure it all out again with a proper square, mark it up and then we can start cutting. I estimate this will take the good part of April to get done due to our own commitments.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3438_zps0011647e.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3438_zps0011647e.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3439_zps908e8e74.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3439_zps908e8e74.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3440_zps94287410.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3440_zps94287410.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3445_zps4a26a1c7.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3445_zps4a26a1c7.jpg.html)

This is going to be awesome  :)

@Dempsey - I certainly hope it will be awesome when it's complete.

Well, progress this weekend, on the brew stand. No further progress yet on the panel, hopefully this week.

Brew stand is complete, and I have to say I'm really chuffed with it. I haven't done any woodwork since Grade 8 back in Australia, and that's well over 25 years ago.

I think having all the right equipment was good. Brother-in-law lent me one of those small Black&Decker hand sanders which was really important. I also have an electric planer, which was vital in squaring of all the shelving, then sanded the whole thing twice, stained (Colron Victorian Pine), and then two coats of varnish.

Also, I got the castors from CastorMart up in Ballymount, Dublin. Cost for 4 castors was 18 euro. I also have to say the guy who served me, I think the owner actually, couldn't have been more helpful.

As I said, very chuffed with the result. Pictures below.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3451_zpsa4bd16d7.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3451_zpsa4bd16d7.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3450_zps676efb07.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3450_zps676efb07.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3452_zpsda8a41da.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3452_zpsda8a41da.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3456_zpseec85cc6.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3456_zpseec85cc6.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3458_zpsdd2b84b4.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3458_zpsdd2b84b4.jpg.html)

Looks fantastic, well done!

Sent from my ST26i using Tapatalk

Ok - so made some progress today. I built a small stand for the pumps and assembled the plumbing for the pumps. Just need to add some length to the pump cables, attach plugs and then they will be complete.

Photo's of the pump stand below.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3459_zps9176c1a6.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3459_zps9176c1a6.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3460_zpsc81e73c8.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3460_zpsc81e73c8.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3463_zpsee09adef.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3463_zpsee09adef.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3465_zpscfb8f41e.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3465_zpscfb8f41e.jpg.html)

Ok - more progress again. Brother-in-law came through and we went around to his mates workshop and cut the panel out. Some of the holes aren't the best, but with everything in place you can't see any bad cuts etc. Everything is evenly spaced and level. We double checked with a T-square, so all is good. Still have the hole to cut for the heat sink, holes for the handles, holes for the electrics on the bottom, and then sand and spray paint.

Here are the pics:

Not the best as it's an iphone pic.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/brewerypanel_zps7d8e45b3.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/brewerypanel_zps7d8e45b3.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3467_zps75d9bed7.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3467_zps75d9bed7.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3468_zpsb186410b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3468_zpsb186410b.jpg.html)

Really stoked this has progressed. Feel like I'm getting closer and closer to the end of it and closer to brewing on it. Can't wait.

Ok - so it's not the best, but this is my attempt at a counter-flow chiller. It's 10 meters of 10mm O.D. copper and 10 meter of 19mm I.D hose. Total for parts at this stage is 46 euro.

The copper was dead easy to unroll, then I just pulled the hose onto it. Sorry I didn't get any pics of the actual rolling, but I used an empty corny key to roll it on. So just the fittings to do now.

It's probably overkill in terms of length or even I.D on the hose. Hopefully it will all be ok and work as planned. I'll post more when I get the fittings and complete the build of it.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3472_zpsce3cace1.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3472_zpsce3cace1.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3473_zps46dc5490.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3473_zps46dc5490.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3476_zps0601e12b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3476_zps0601e12b.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3474_zps46c18288.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3474_zps46c18288.jpg.html)

How much did the support table cost in Materials? I am tied between building a timber one or a galvanised one made from unistrut?

Did you do this down in Blackwater Mobile home site :)

These switches are usually only used for the control and not for taking the full load current of heaters for example, they should be wired to a relay which is rated to take the full load current, and in the process they are only subjected to the very small current needed by the relays

@SA - the table was about 250 euro. The top and lower shelf were expensive as I bought wood from woodies for that. What I didn't calculate was the standard width of a plank of a wood to be used for the top and bottom shelf and make the length of the table an even number of planks. I went with 1800 because that was the length needed, more or less, and then went 200mm width on wood used for the shelving. Brooks list wood at say 220 wide, but because it's planned it's actually like 217 or such. I had planned for that it would have been cheaper. I went to TJ O'Mahoneys in Ballymount for the nuts, bolts, washers and Woodies for the wood stain and varnish. O'Mahoneys was way cheaper than B&Q and Woodies for the bolts etc.

Overall though, I'm really happy with it and it's something that will last a lifetime.

@Dempsey - No, it wasn't Blackwater, it was Morris-Castle Strand, Kilmuckridge. Nice place actually. Managed to get down there without the kids and wife, had a few brews and made a counter flow chiller.  8)

@Tube - photo below for you. But as SA is saying, everything should be run through a relay and through the PIDs so such a thing doesn't happen. Try the Electric Brewery website as it has some really good wiring diagrams.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3477_zpsb0e8848d.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3477_zpsb0e8848d.jpg.html)

More progress today. I managed to get the heating elements installed into the kettles. Still need to do the wiring and add some silicon, but well chuffed with what I did get done. Again, modelled on the EB site.

Photo's of the process below along with some comments.

3 x 5500w ULWD heating elements
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3479_zps5195c5a7.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3479_zps5195c5a7.jpg.html)

Gang boxes for housing heating elements
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3480_zpsf27912ba.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3480_zpsf27912ba.jpg.html)

Already to go. Brewstand doubling up as work bench.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3484_zps3b47b3b8.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3484_zps3b47b3b8.jpg.html)

Had to use a dremel tool to grind down the spacers/feet on the back of the gang box.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3486_zpsfca7ddba.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3486_zpsfca7ddba.jpg.html)

Cut a hole in the gang box with a 53mm hole saw. Did this with a cordless 18v dewalt drill. Tough going this way and holes are way messy, but thankful not an issue at this stage.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3487_zpseea1af8b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3487_zpseea1af8b.jpg.html)

Cut a hole for the panel mount receptacle plug for the heating element cable. This was actually easy compared to the big hole. Used a 30mm hole saw for this one. I've done it this way so it is easier to carry around and clean rather than having a long cable permanently attached to the kettle.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3488_zpsebc234a9.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3488_zpsebc234a9.jpg.html)

Hole cut for the gang cover.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3498_zps1a9b28e2.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3498_zps1a9b28e2.jpg.html)

All three ready for assembly.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3499_zps1796900e.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3499_zps1796900e.jpg.html)

What the parts look like installed in the gang box.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3508_zps2cfb9973.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3508_zps2cfb9973.jpg.html)
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3505_zps49cbbef8.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3505_zps49cbbef8.jpg.html)

Two holes cut in the HLT for both elements.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3513_zps8f008e35.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3513_zps8f008e35.jpg.html)

Elements installed in the HLT.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3514_zps1b4227d0.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3514_zps1b4227d0.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3515_zps02c84514.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3515_zps02c84514.jpg.html)

Element installed in the BK.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3517_zps2c5db285.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3517_zps2c5db285.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3516_zps996c774b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3516_zps996c774b.jpg.html)

Just an observation, I'm surprised to see that these elements don't seem to have an earth terminal. I know your brother in law is sorting out your electrics but for anyone else fitting them it would be worth considering the fitting of earth tags behind the back nut of the elements. They are fundamentally a brass washer with a piece of brass attached which has a hole in it to take an earth connection. They are available from electrical wholesalers and come in a large range of sizes.

Sent from my ST26i using Tapatalk

Here's an image of the earth tag
http://thecrimpcompany.com/scpro/crimp/products/productsmoredetails.asp?id=6317

Sent from my ST26i using Tapatalk
Ps if using an aluminium box as per Ausbrewer then brass is not suitable as the two dissimilar metals will cause erosion of the aluminium, from memory they also come in a stainless type finish.

What is the device I post #43 pic 7? Is that a punch of sorts?

Its a hole punch :)

Like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJpc5CeiAtQ

I like it.

I noticed McQuillans Tools on Oliver Plunkett St. in Cork the other day.
Does the discount apply there too?

I will sort it so it does on Monday. ;)

@johnrm - I got mine from handyhardware.ie - I do most of my shopping on-line these days. I felt they were cheap enough to buy from but a bit slow in delivery and their website doesn't really keep you informed very well. However, everything arrived in proper order.

@SA - the gang box comes with a grounding screw. If you look inside the gang box you can see where it screws in to. As you said, the brother in law will be checking everything out. Thanks for the link you posted though, I'll run it past him when we are doing the wiring just to make doubly sure.


I did a wet test overnight and all was good, and have spent this afternoon doing up the HLT. I have some photo's I will post later. Having a right tough time of getting the herms coil in though. Just taking a break while the dremel charges so I can shave some length off the bends on the herms coil.

Ok - Finished the HLT. Have one minor leak, annoying, but I will fix during the week. A bit of plumbers tape and a little tighten and it will be all sorted.

I have to say that was rather gruelling. I started at 2pm and finished about 8pm. Now there was making and having dinner within all that and a beer or two while the dremel charged for 30 mins, but it was a lot tougher and took a lot longer than I thought it would. I did a wet test and that took a bit of time to fix the couple of leaks I had.

The toughest part was the HERMS coil. See pics below as to why. And the sight glass was a pain. I snapped the thread on it twice, but luckily there was just enough thread for a third go to get it right, and so far no leaks.

I have the HLT full of water at the moment doing an overnight leak test just to make sure all is ok.

Overall though, I think it looks great and will function as designed without any problems. Delighted it's finished. Next one will be the mash tun.

Ok - on to the pics.

The main tap installed. Punching the hole was easy, but working out the fittings and getting them all in the right direction took a bit of time, longer than expected. But overall, it is easy enough to do. You can also see the sight glass installed.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3518_zps6b8dd3f8.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3518_zps6b8dd3f8.jpg.html)

Compression fitting and dip tube inside the HLT.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3520_zpsf218d8d2.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3520_zpsf218d8d2.jpg.html)

HERMS coil inside the HLT. I've installed it as low as possible, but unfortunately one part is resting on the element. I'm going to have to build a stainless steel prop to hold it up off the element I think. The other thing you will notice is that the coil is touching the back wall of the kettle. On reflection,  ::) , I think the coil diameter is too big. I bought the coil from stainless brewing in the USA and could have chosen a smaller diameter. I didn't account for the size of the compression fittings, oh well. As it was I had to cut some tubing off the coil to get it to fit that tight, and in the process almost ruined the coil. Cutting the tubing off the coil bends, I cut far enough back to the bend that the compression nut and ferrules wouldn't slide onto the tubing probably, or into the fitting, so I had to use a hammer and once I got the threads to connect it was just brute force tightening them into place. It seems to have worked as I did run water through the coil, close all the valves and let it sit full of water - an no leaks thankfully. I don't think it being against the back wall of the kettle will effect it's efficiency that much and it should still perform as required.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3522_zps2d070635.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3522_zps2d070635.jpg.html)

A better picture of it against the back wall of the kettle. You can also see where it is resting on the element as well.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3523_zpsf75fb40e.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3523_zpsf75fb40e.jpg.html)

This is the water return.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3531_zps414e11c3.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3531_zps414e11c3.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3532_zpsa6868fd3.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3532_zpsa6868fd3.jpg.html)

And the finished product, in situ with the other kettles. It's good to see the brew stand is just the right length as well.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3529_zps4843d3c6.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3529_zps4843d3c6.jpg.html)

All in all - satisfying but tough day. I do feel more confident progressing onto the other kettles now, and hopefully they will be a breeze.

Build envy!!! Looks cracking man

Looks great, first carpenter next plumber, where will he go next ?  ;D

@ SA, CARA - thanks gents. It's been fun. Just in the process of another update......

Ok - finished some more of the kettle work.

This is the mash tun. On the output tap you can see the RTD sensor which will connect to the control panel.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3533_zps320850cc.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3533_zps320850cc.jpg.html)

Here you can see the blichmann false bottom. Need to change the hole for the pickup tube, need some beer tubing around the edge and have to get some bolts to create "legs" for the false bottom. You can also see the wort / sparge return tap and hose.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3534_zpsb0deabf4.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3534_zpsb0deabf4.jpg.html)

This is the boil kettle. I was doing a wet test here, and all was good. You can see the output tap and the whirlpool return.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3536_zpsad66daa1.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3536_zpsad66daa1.jpg.html)

Inside the BK - hop-filter from homebrewbuilder in the UK, whirlpool return, heating element and the RTD sensor at the back of the kettle.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3535_zpsdd7c43fd.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3535_zpsdd7c43fd.jpg.html)

And this is all the kettles in situ on the brew stand as they would be for a brew day. 90% complete. Have to raise the HERMs coil, false bottom fixes as described above, and wire in all the elements. Otherwise all done.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3538_zpsc697c721.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3538_zpsc697c721.jpg.html)

Overall, it took longer than I thought, was more physically demanding than I thought, but was immensely fun and satisfying. Really stoked with it all. All wet tested and perfect. Very happy.

Any questions on any of it, please let me know.

Well done. Excellent progress so far. I'm following this thread with great interest.

Thanks acaoshes. Let me know if have you any questions. Happy to chat about my experience of building this.

I got the panel spray painted and spent yesterday installing all the components. I'll see if I can post pics later today or tomorrow.

Inspiring build.    Looks great. 

Keep us informed with its first run..

Ok - so I got the panel powder coated during the week. Picked up on Friday, just in time for the weekend thankfully. Colour is Antique Copper, got it down by Quality Powder Coating in Greenhills industrial estate. Damien was the person I dealt with, who is the owner I believe. Really helpful guy as well, and very easy to deal. Cost for this was 80 euro.

So, I'm pretty happy with it. It looks a different colour in different light, so I've posted a few pics. The middle panel meter which is a temp gauge is a bit off, so a little filing will get that back level I think. I was originally after antique silver or a ceramic black colour but no-one in Dublin was doing it. So in the interest of moving it along I went with the Antique Copper. It's different but I do like it.

So here are the pics:

Panel without any additions.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/20140503_094841_zps83189480.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/20140503_094841_zps83189480.jpg.html)

Panel with the base plate in place.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/20140503_162029_zps6d3ba4e0.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/20140503_162029_zps6d3ba4e0.jpg.html)

Panel with all the power inputs and temp probe connectors - I'm sure there is a more technical name for it. And yes that is a standard 63amp panel mount socket. It's bloody huge.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/20140503_170152_zps74033960.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/20140503_170152_zps74033960.jpg.html)

With all the components installed.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3540_zpsd89f5913.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3540_zpsd89f5913.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/20140505_153803_zps71355b9e.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/20140505_153803_zps71355b9e.jpg.html)

And the inside of the panel.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3546_zps04e7ef63.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3546_zps04e7ef63.jpg.html)

Next steps is to start the wiring with the brother in law.

OK - so progress has been made. I have completed putting all the hosing together (dead easy) and we have started to put the internals together in the panel.

I also got all my cabling for the pumps and the heating elements. The cables for the heating elements are 10 sq rubber cables for flexibility - pretty expansive at 8.95 euro a meter. Pump cables are 1.5 sqr rubber flex cables (0.95c a meter), pretty close match to the actual and rather short cables that are attached to the chugger pumps. I will be looking to build the cables sometime over the weekend, or during the week. I'll post photo's of them as I go.

Anyway, recent photo's are:

All the hoses assembled and in place on the brewery. It's not the best photo as we were having one of those rare sunny days and this was taken on an iphone.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_0802_zps1107e145.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_0802_zps1107e145.jpg.html)

Front of the panel again. Nothing changed here.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3550_zps96a2d6df.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3550_zps96a2d6df.jpg.html)

Internal components on installed on the back plate.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3553_zpsb7d670bc.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3553_zpsb7d670bc.jpg.html)

The contactors (relays):
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3554_zps2b5077be.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3554_zps2b5077be.jpg.html)

The breakers:
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3555_zpsd9b2d206.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3555_zpsd9b2d206.jpg.html)

The interlocks on the left so I can only ever have two elements on at once. And the step down transformer - 240v to 12v.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3556_zps720434f6.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3556_zps720434f6.jpg.html)

The converters for the panel meters.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3557_zps14066ecc.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3557_zps14066ecc.jpg.html)

A 50amp shunt for those that are really interested.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3558_zpscb237387.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3558_zpscb237387.jpg.html)

Close up of the contactor (relay);
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3564_zps5db51148.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3564_zps5db51148.jpg.html)

Close up of the interlocks:
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3566_zpse65fc29d.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3566_zpse65fc29d.jpg.html)

And the inside of the door.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3559_zpsb1e668d0.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3559_zpsb1e668d0.jpg.html)

Any questions, let me know.

Awesome quality! Well Done!

I have one teensy, tiny little question:

Can you please post up the links to all the suppliers you used!

No rush, when you are finished as a definitive list of links stickied somewhere will answer the age old questions that are continuously asked on the fora: "Where can I get ...."

Oh and when you label up the panel with a nice engraved makers plate that says something like:

"OzBrewPanKit    Version xxx"

Never say version one - it looks like you've only just made it and it may still have bugs!

Much better is like Version 2.3 Revision Ozz_9

It really kills joe public to think you have had so many iterations!

Quote from: Will_D on May 24, 2014, 09:19:50 PM
Never say version one - it looks like you've only just made it and it may still have bugs!

Much better is like Version 2.3 Revision Ozz_9

Spoken like a true software developer, note that I did not say engineer !!! Thank god we don't build bridges or nuclear power stations like software :)

Shanna

@Will - thanks for the comments.

I will definitely get a list together of where I got everything and pricing as best I can.

I went to do some wiring for the heating elements and the 10 sqr cable is too big, so I have to downsize that to 6 sqr. As I understand it though, I think the 10 sqr will function ok for the main power cable for the panel, but I'm double checking with brother-in-law electrician.

Oh - and on the naming thing. I have a brewery name but I'm thinking of changing it at the moment. But either way I will have an est. 1998 as that's when I started brewing.

Ok - so I sorted out the debacle that was the cables. The 10 sq cable I got will carry in excess of 70amps, so that is now my mains power cable to the panel. Source was Kelliher's up in Ballymount.

The 1.5sqr has been used on the chugger pumps, pics below.

So, I sourced 4 sq (good for 41 amps apparently) for the heating elements at Demense Electical in Tallaght. It was about 1.50 euro a meter.

So, small progress has been made, and pics as usual.

So, I'm using the Neutrik Powercon 32amp connectors for the heating element cables. I sourced these from Thomann.de. They were by far the cheapest place I could get them. I think on Amazon, e-bay and Farnell as some examples, had them at almost double the price. Shipping was fast and easy, and no duty on the way in either.

These are the 32amp powercons:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3576_zpsdbe976ca.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3576_zpsdbe976ca.jpg.html)

Just getting ready to do the wiring:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3577_zps24190900.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3577_zps24190900.jpg.html)

All wired up and ready for assembling:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3579_zps644382ed.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3579_zps644382ed.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3580_zps62e1bb2d.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3580_zps62e1bb2d.jpg.html)

And one completed heating element cable:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3582_zps558c2c84.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3582_zps558c2c84.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3583_zpse5d5a087.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3583_zpse5d5a087.jpg.html)

And three completed heating element cables:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3585_zpsfde27f90.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3585_zpsfde27f90.jpg.html)

Once that was done, I moved onto the pumps. I have two chugger centre inlet pumps. For those in the chugger group buy, you will notice the length of the cables that come with the pumps aren't great, probably a meter in length I would say. So I used 1.5 sq rubber flex cable to extend. The diameter on the rubber flex cable is on par with the pump cable. I used an inline wire splice technique to join them - see this instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/Master-a-perfect-inline-wire-splice-everytime/

I don't have a soldering iron, so once spliced I used electrical tape on each splice then taped it all together and used heat shrink over it all. I'll see how this goes, but as I have plenty of slack in the cable, I can cut the join out and do it again another time.

This is the 16amp powercon connector:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3586_zpsa3784131.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3586_zpsa3784131.jpg.html)

All connected up:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3588_zps89bc881b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3588_zps89bc881b.jpg.html)

And the pumps. On the pump on the right, just under the centre inlet you can see the join.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3589_zps66095bc1.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3589_zps66095bc1.jpg.html)

So, some small steps at least. I still have a lot of little bits to do, and although I'm hoping I will be brewing this month, I am, yet again, estimating a month further out - July. It's amazing all the little things that creep in to get this done.

Looking great Rolf, if you don't fancy a tape joint on the Chugger lead, you could use something like this from Radionics

http://m.rs-online.com/h5/mobile/uk/catalog?url=%2Fweb%2Fp%2Fmains-inline-connectors%2F0454968%2F

Thanks for the link SA.....  I'll be touch shortly regarding the mains, and a few beers as well while we are at it.

Whats the total cost roughly?

Is the join where you connect 'your' cable to the pump cable?
Why not remove the pump cable completely and have a clean run all the way?

John's suggestion is by far the best. However if the cable is not removable then surely someone nearby could pop round with a soldering iron.

Solder, heat shrink over each joint then a bigger bit over the 3 joints and job done. If you want to avoid a big lump in the middle then you cut the individual wires to 3 different leghts so the joints are in series rather than in parrallel if you get my drift!

Why not buy a soldering iron - the are cheap as chips in lidl and Alsi (when they have them!)

@Covey - It's not cheap that's for sure.... but it will be in and around €3.5K. Before this I was a BIAB brewer for 8 years or so. Pics below for those interested. In terms of ingredients and how I've been brewing, a pint costs me about 60c. I have enough bottles (750ml) for 12 batches (a batch is typically 30 x 750ml, or a bit over 40 pints)

So I factored in typical brew volume per year + cost per brew + equipment cost, and my first batch of beer produced (say 40 pints) on this rig will be at roughly €86.61 a pint.  8)

But it's not really the way to look at it. If I add up the number of brews per year + the cost per brew and divide it by the accumulated amount of brews - that is distribute the cost of the equipment over the lifetime amount I have brewed on the rig - I will be back down to under a €1 per pint at the 10 year mark.

I don't homebrew because it's cheap, I homebrew because I love it as a hobby.

And although to some homebrewers' a €1 a pint is expensive, it's a damn sight better than the usual shite available when you go out or what you can buy at your local bottle shop (off licence).

I have built this system to be a lifetime investment; I should not need to change or upgrade anything, maybe replace an element or a pump along the way, but this is something I will be able to hand down to my kids. My old equipment doesn't owe me anything and over 15 years of brewing I haven't spent much money except on ingredients.

And based on all these factors, this is why I'm doing it.

And I would recommend it to anyone.

Old setup:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_1540_zpseafb1ece.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_1540_zpseafb1ece.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_1563_zpsa8c50719.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_1563_zpsa8c50719.jpg.html)

@John, Will - So I did some looking around and didn't find a great deal of information on the Chuggers when doing this. There was one thread on the ElectricBrewery site where a guy was looking to change the whole cable. By the looks of the thread he sent an email to Chugger and they told him no, it can't be done. I saw one other thread where someone knew someone who had done it but the pump was never the same again - can't remember which site that was on.

Linky here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=288257#288257

So I thought about it, and decided I don't want to get into a situation where I'm pulling a brand new pump apart, maybe void some warranty (although can't see warranty fine print anywhere), and when I put it back together it doesn't work for some unbeknownst reason. 

@Will - yeah, I know I could have gone and bought a soldering iron, but I was kind of at the point where I don't really want to buy another piece of equipment to be used only once. As it was I had to buy a specialist star screwdriver set, for 20 euro, just to screw in the cables on the 16amp (yellow) powercon connectors. So I was a bit peeved at that and so I said I would splice it and use electrical tape and then heat shrink - which is what I've done.

It's not rational, I'll accept that.  :(

The other alternative was to put a plug on it and on the end of the new cable along with the powercon and do it that way. I may go back and look at as an option.

"It's not cheap that's for sure.... but it will be in and around €3.5K. Before this I was a BIAB brewer for 8 years or so. Pics below for those interested. In terms of ingredients and how I've been brewing, a pint costs me about 60c. I have enough bottles (750ml) for 12 batches (a batch is typically 30 x 750ml, or a bit over 40 pints)

So I factored in typical brew volume per year + cost per brew + equipment cost, and my first batch of beer produced (say 40 pints) on this rig will be at roughly €86.61 a pint."

I would love a proper AG set up in the future, dont really have the ability to put the boards together and all that. Who cares about the prices. Your first AG kit is like a Light saber you have to built it your self

Ok - there has been some small progress. Wiring had commenced, but will now be on hold. Brother-in-law's wife is having her baby tomorrow, and for some reason he is prioritising that over this....  ::)

Front panel, 90% wired:
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3573_zpsdab1e502.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3573_zpsdab1e502.jpg.html)

I now have the correct contactors (relays): Although they say 25 and 32 on the front, the 32 can sustain up to 80amps and a continuous current of 50amps. These are heavy duty industrial contactors and will do the job. I'm lucky to be building this in an actual workshop that builds industrial panels for refrigeration and pump stations etc. This is where my brother in law served his apprenticeship, and all the guys on the shop floor thinks this is amazing, and are of course demanding beer in return for all their advice as we were building.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3571_zpsc4de3ded.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3571_zpsc4de3ded.jpg.html)

It's progress at least. I think on the weekend I will sort out the fixes on the false bottom, and look to complete the counterflow chiller.

Man after me own heart.
Quote
Brother in laws wife is having a baby.
:D

@Dempsey - Yep - and I'm sticking by it as well.....  ;D

Ok - More updates.

So I worked on the Blichmann Falsebottom. First step was to get some tubing around the edge of it so it seals properly in the bottom of the Mash Tun.

I saw this method either on this forum, or another one, but thought that it would do the trick well.

Equipment needed - two pieces of left over wood from the brewstand, 4 screws, carton cutter blade, 1 nut, drill and tubing:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3601_zps1e0cadad.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3601_zps1e0cadad.jpg.html)

Screw two pieces of wood together, and screw in 2nd screw - tube width away from top piece of wood:
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3602_zps9819dfcc.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3602_zps9819dfcc.jpg.html)

Add the 3rd screw above the tube to hold in place:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3603_zps965b6c4b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3603_zps965b6c4b.jpg.html)

Screw the nut and the blade to the wood:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3607_zps0bde8957.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3607_zps0bde8957.jpg.html)

Pull tube through the hole:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3608_zpsef91a34e.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3608_zpsef91a34e.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3609_zpse06ae1cf.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3609_zpse06ae1cf.jpg.html)

Keep pulling until the tube has been sliced open:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3610_zpsd0c429c5.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3610_zpsd0c429c5.jpg.html)

Couldn't have been easier.

Now for the false bottom. I needed to enlarge the pickup hole. To do this I had to drill another hole to extend it:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3611_zps36a1b107.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3611_zps36a1b107.jpg.html)

Tidy it up with the trusty old Dremel:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3612_zps014c7a89.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3612_zps014c7a89.jpg.html)

Drill holes for the legs:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3613_zps5deb0aad.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3613_zps5deb0aad.jpg.html)

I used these machine screws from B&Q. I cut them down to size once installed.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3614_zps8d48655b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3614_zps8d48655b.jpg.html)

Legs in place:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3615_zps795de56a.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3615_zps795de56a.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3616_zps899284b3.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3616_zps899284b3.jpg.html)

So I needed to blank over the original hole: Using zinc coated washers and the stainless machine screw:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3623_zpsb931bfb0.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3623_zpsb931bfb0.jpg.html)

The underside. Screw cut down to size.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3625_zps09ed6178.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3625_zps09ed6178.jpg.html)

FB in place in the kettle. Perfect seal around the sides:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3628_zps72441d7f.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3628_zps72441d7f.jpg.html)

Close up:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3629_zps7ddd080c.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3629_zps7ddd080c.jpg.html)

Dip tube in place with original washer:

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3630_zpsdfd3574c.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3630_zpsdfd3574c.jpg.html)

All in all a success. This completes the mash tun 100%. Only have to sort out the HERMS coil touching the heating element in the HLT and then the kettles will be 100% complete.

Tiss a thing of beauty. So jealous. Putting together a HERMS system at the moment and so far not a patch on yours. Congrats. When do you expect to be up and running?

Thanks Nigel.

I would say I'm about a month away. Looks like wiring will recommence tomorrow, and I reckon we have about 3 or 4 more nights at that. I need to get the sub-board in for the electrics, get a fermentation fridge in place, finish off some minor wiring, finish counterflow chiller, tags for the panel and that's about it. So, hopefully within the next four weeks. But I think I've been saying the same thing for last three months.   ::)  It really does take longer than you think. I really want it done now, I just want the project out of the way and off my mind, and then I can get back to some serious brewing.

Start a build thread for what you are doing and post some pics. What do they say? Function over form? One of the reasons I went this way was because of the availability of the cheap Bergland pots. I was looking at kegs first, but because Bergland pots were so cheap for the sizes available it was a no brainer. Just keep at it, take your time and make sure it will function the way you want to brew.

Yeah might just do that. All the parts and coming together at the moment. Few more to be ordered and more in the post.

Just one thing: change that zinc washer for a stainless steel one. The wort is acidic and your get zinc salts in your brew. These are not that good for you.
/JD

Nice build & thread Oz.

Those bergland pots aint so cheap anymore though. Id say yourself, myself & St.Fursey got the last of them before the UK lads got an exclusive deal with them & decided to charge a premium. Assh0les!

Ive a similar build. Two 80 litre thermopots & 100 litre stock pot. STC100 & 2 kettle elements for the HLT & blichmann burner for the boil kettle. Analogue temp dials. No electrics so a much cheaper build & suited to those who arent home owners or in a position to alter the fuse board in their house. Second chugger coming soon & Stainless table got for it all to sit on (will have to get the burner/table modified so the burner sits underneath & all the pots are pretty much level. Moving to a new gaf soon so once its all setup it'll stay up. Currently have to tear down after each brew day which is a PITA.

(http://i.imgur.com/ikzraL9l.jpg)


@Nigel - start on one pot at a time. I started mine last Oct & only last week had all three vessels for a brew day. Up til then I was heating the mash & sparge water in the BK. (Thermopot HLT was a total nightmare to seal up. In the end I broke 1 element & had to buy those stainless element shrouds from homebrewbuilder to get the elements to seal up against the inner skin)

For the moment I'm sticking with plastic. My plan is to keep my current size setup but be easily able to transfer into a bigger stainless setup when space allows. Currently living in an apartment so it can be a bit much at times even doing 23L batches.
We're thinking of moving somewhere within the next year or so so should be pretty easy to just undo everything and transplant into larger kegs or boiler. When I finally get my much needed brew space.
Until then it's 23L on plastic. Have the majority of my parts now so nearly ready to start construction. 

@Hop Bomb - thanks for the comments. Your kettles look awesome. I was going to go with the thermometer on the front - adjustable ones as well - but in the end I decided no due to costs. Maybe a future upgrade.

Pity also on the pots not being available anymore. I used shipito in the US to get stuff over to Ireland and I know they have a depot in Austria - maybe someone on here will eventually check out if they can sneak an order in and use the shipito address in Austria.

My setup will be semi-permanent. I have it on the deck, which is covered in and water proof. I have a large shed in the back yard that I need to eventually fix up to make it brewery capable. So for the moment I will leave the stand where it is, and after a brew day, clean the kettles and move them into the shed for storage. As for the control panel, hopefully I have it designed well enough that I can easily mount it and un-mount it for storage as well. Otherwise I will get a cover and leave it bolted to the wall on the rear deck - it'll remain waterproof and safe, but not really the solution I want long term.

Ok - more updates. A little progress on the wiring of the panel, but no pics for that. Should be finished wiring next week hopefully.

As part of the build, I decided I needed a fermentation fridge as well. I use to brew seasonally, and although that worked well enough, I just wanted more control and flexibility.

Two weeks ago I bought a larder fridge - €120.00 - It's a Beko 173cm tall fridge. Thought it was a good price and it's clean and in working condition. Pics below.

So, thought I would just write up the STC1000 controller build here as part of the overall build.

Equipment needed - STC1000 controller, a box to put it in, two trailing plugs, a standard plug, a power switch, press box, 10m of cable, 3 cable glands and terminal strip. All sourced from B&Q, except cable glands which I got from an electrical supplier in Ballymount - name escapes me.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3669_zps9bdcaa23.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3669_zps9bdcaa23.jpg.html)

I used this wiring diagram, which I believe was posted by LordEoin.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/STC1000Wiring_zpscc41bcda.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/STC1000Wiring_zpscc41bcda.jpg.html)

So, measure and cut holes.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3671_zps82e5e0b7.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3671_zps82e5e0b7.jpg.html)

Used a 13mm drill to make the holes, and made them bigger by moving the drill around. And managed to crack the plastic, but no drama though.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3672_zps0ee39ecc.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3672_zps0ee39ecc.jpg.html)

1st is to install cable glands - easily done.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3673_zps9944dcf0.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3673_zps9944dcf0.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3674_zpsacbbe353.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3674_zpsacbbe353.jpg.html)

Bring in mains, and through the press box to be mounted inside.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3675_zpsd8ae1674.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3675_zpsd8ae1674.jpg.html)

Wire up the main switch on the outside of the box.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3676_zpsd8857eb9.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3676_zpsd8857eb9.jpg.html)

Note the two earth wires in the earth receptacle - one earth from the main cable and the other back to the terminal strip.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3677_zpsb4063acc.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3677_zpsb4063acc.jpg.html)

Mains and neutral to the terminal strip.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3678_zpsf0237a47.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3678_zpsf0237a47.jpg.html)

Screw the press box in place with the main switch.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3679_zps19beecc1.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3679_zps19beecc1.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3680_zpsf38114e2.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3680_zpsf38114e2.jpg.html)

Bring in the other cables.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3681_zpsc058aaa6.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3681_zpsc058aaa6.jpg.html)

Screw all wires into the terminal strip as per wiring diagram.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3685_zps47aa15e1.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3685_zps47aa15e1.jpg.html)

Strip the cables to get the wires, and bring them through the hole for the STC. And wire neutrals and earths to the terminal strip - as per wiring diagram.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3686_zps11c3a0c5.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3686_zps11c3a0c5.jpg.html)

Wire the STC as per wiring diagram - check that your STC is the same.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3690_zps7a96d14b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3690_zps7a96d14b.jpg.html)

STC in place in the box.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3691_zps0dd68f19.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3691_zps0dd68f19.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3692_zpsc964865a.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3692_zpsc964865a.jpg.html)

Run temp probe through one of the glands, and tighten all glands.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3693_zps4770971c.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3693_zps4770971c.jpg.html)

One completed STC controller box.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3695_zps6ea5eaeb.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3695_zps6ea5eaeb.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3696_zps0cddcaa3.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3696_zps0cddcaa3.jpg.html)

Power on.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3697_zps70ecedf0.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3697_zps70ecedf0.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3698_zps551e71d7.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3698_zps551e71d7.jpg.html)

And here is the fridge. Shelves still needed. Easily fits two 33 litre fermenters.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3699_zps91b67d16.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3699_zps91b67d16.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3701_zps29a80dd1.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3701_zps29a80dd1.jpg.html)

Pretty pleased with this, and a reasonably easy project to complete by yourself.

That was almost idiot proof enough for me to understand! Thanks!

No more news on the panel wiring this week unfortunately. Hopefully back at it next week.

So, in place of the panel, I decided to finish off the counter flow chiller. Pics below as always.

If you go back a few posts I have photo's showing the copper coil and hosing being put together.

Next step was to complete all the plumbing. This is what was needed – Three 1/2" t-pieces (only showing 2 here), 1/2" coupling, 2 x 1/2" nipple, 2 x 1/2" to 3/4" adapters, 4 x 1/2" to 10mm compression fittings (only showing 3 here for some reason), 1 x 1/2" thermometer, 2 x Hozelock garden hose connectors, Hose clips to size down to 19mm and PTFE tape (not shown), 2 x 1/2" male disconnects (not shown also).

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3705_zps81c4be11.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3705_zps81c4be11.jpg.html)

To get this to work, I needed to bore out the middle for 2 of the compression fittings. Pic shows a side by side comparison between a bored and non bored compression fitting. I used a 10mm drill bit, a hand drill and wrench to do it. Pretty easy, just make sure the battery on your drill is at full power and it will make short work of it.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3709_zps8788998d.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3709_zps8788998d.jpg.html)

First is to assemble the wort input and the water output on the chiller. Put the hose clip on the hose, screw in the nipple to the 1/2" tee and screw / push it into the hose.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3707_zps6728dc04.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3707_zps6728dc04.jpg.html)

PTFE tape the compression fitting.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3710_zps08ec478b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3710_zps08ec478b.jpg.html)

Assemble the compression fitting olive and nut onto the copper pipe like this.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3711_zpsd254f72f.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3711_zpsd254f72f.jpg.html)

I added PTFE tape on the compression nut and olive before screwing together. I did this for both compression fittings that I had to bore through.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3719_zps106b4413.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3719_zps106b4413.jpg.html)

Screw it all into place.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3712_zps45399b50.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3712_zps45399b50.jpg.html)

Next is to attach the next compression fitting to the end of the pipe. Again, I wrapped all threads with PTFE, although not shown in the next photo.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3713_zpsd2c58630.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3713_zpsd2c58630.jpg.html)

Screw on the 1/2" coupling to the compression fitting and the 1/2" male disconnect.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3714_zps820ca448.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3714_zps820ca448.jpg.html)

Add hose connect as well. This completes one end of the counter flow chiller.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3716_zps7da6a39c.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3716_zps7da6a39c.jpg.html)

Start the other end of the chiller in the same fashion - this will be the wort output and the water input.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3718_zps77883c51.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3718_zps77883c51.jpg.html)

Close up of the compression fitting in place with the tee piece.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3721_zpsddbe510b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3721_zpsddbe510b.jpg.html)

Add the hose connector as well.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3723_zps2902bdf4.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3723_zps2902bdf4.jpg.html)

Now you need to assemble the third tee piece - this include the thermometer, the compression fitting and the male disconnect. This is for the wort exit on the counter flow chiller.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3724_zpsc866d0cf.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3724_zpsc866d0cf.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3726_zps5da20e80.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3726_zps5da20e80.jpg.html)

Add the last compression fitting to the end of the copper pipe.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3727_zps66ae70ff.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3727_zps66ae70ff.jpg.html)

And then add the assembled tee piece, completing the build of the wort chiller.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3729_zpsd746e52f.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3729_zpsd746e52f.jpg.html)

And the counter flow chiller in place on the brew stand.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3730_zpsd625971c.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3730_zpsd625971c.jpg.html)

I wet tested the whole thing. I had a minor leak on one of the bored through compression fittings. It was leaking about 10 drops a minute. I'm just going to add sugru to the fitting to seal it. The water mains pressure isn't high and this solution will work. The compression fittings on the copper tube for the wort input and output are sealed fine with no leaks.

Hose clips and hose connectors from B&Q, thermometer from Stainless Brewing in the states (part of original fittings buy), male quick disconnects (see earlier posts), all other fittings purchased from PLI / BSS on South Circular Road Dublin.

The bored through compression fittings - the one that leaked wasn't as well wrapped in PTFE tape. Also, be careful not to over tighten the brass olives as they will crush the copper pipe. Overall though, easy build, and it looks like it will function really well. I'll report back on the results when I finally get to do the first brew.

Any questions, please ask.

Have you noticed any rusting on the camco heating elements??

@mr.drankin

Yep - I noticed this as well. When I was wet testing the HLT and BK for leaks, I left water in overnight. Apparently not recommended. It's just a slight coating like that.

Apparently for some people - bar keepers friend or equivalent Cilit Bang Lime Scale and Rust will get rid of this.

Seems a bit of a mixed bag from what I can see in the forums - some people don't get any rust, some people have had that slight coating by leaving water in, but fixed it with no return of the problem, and then some people have had ongoing problems.

I'm not particularly worried about it as there are a number of easy and cheap solutions available. If you want the same power but full stainless, check out the elements on this website - www.brewmation.com - expensive at $60US but would sort the problem out.  Their website can be a bit temperamental but a lot of people seem to be using them in the US.

The other option is to install one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000701HEQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=B000701HEQ


Have a read through this thread.
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24644&highlight=rust+camco

Yeah I done the same, leaving water in for leak testing and got rust.  Ive been researching all the same links you have posted and am not going to worry bout it.  Adding more holes to my pot etc probably do more harm than good

Apparently the rust isn't as bad when elements are in use.  I got a 2.4kw all stainless element from angel homebrew and it done exactly the same.

Yep - I've seen on a few threads that the Cilit Bang approach to clean up works and then when it is in use it hasn't come back.

I'm not so worried about another hole in the kettle but would be more annoyed / disappointed that I have to do it. I still have all the punches from the build so it's easy enough I guess. If things don't go the right way I will just add the anode into the kettle.

Let me know how you get on with it. I'll post here again after the first brew to see how it cleared up. 

Hey, have you got a chance to power up the pids and timer????  I had a battle trying to figure them out yesterday.  Never really knew what they were capable of.  Programming them defiantly isn't as straight forward as I thought.

What's the consensus on running a 5.5kw element? The electricians at work tell me a domestic supply isn't designed to handle such a load. I'm planning on running a line to the shed from the main board. All work will be done by an electrician

as far as i know, you'll just need to have the shed on its own circuit with a separate higher rated tripswitch.

That's what I thought. To be safe I'll probably also install a prioritised interlock so the electric shower can't run at the same time

5.5kw runs 24amp, I think a house has 63amp max.  On my set-up I got a 32amp mcb from mains to a commando socket. 

Quote from: St. Fursey on August 06, 2014, 08:53:32 PM
What's the consensus on running a 5.5kw element? The electricians at work tell me a domestic supply isn't designed to handle such a load. I'm planning on running a line to the shed from the main board. All work will be done by an electrician

I run a 5.5kw element off a 24 amp fuse in my shed. The shed has an independent fuse board but it's wired off the mains supply from the house. Can't use electric shower or dish washer while the boiler is on.

Shanna

Quote from: DTube on August 06, 2014, 09:50:36 PM

Quote from: Shanna on August 06, 2014, 09:45:08 PM

Quote from: St. Fursey on August 06, 2014, 08:53:32 PM
What's the consensus on running a 5.5kw element? The electricians at work tell me a domestic supply isn't designed to handle such a load. I'm planning on running a line to the shed from the main board. All work will be done by an electrician

I run a 5.5kw element off a 24 amp fuse in my shed. The shed has an independent fuse board but it's wired off the mains supply from the house. Can't use electric shower or dish washer while the boiler is on.

Shanna

If your dishwasher is on a regular 13 amp plug then you can run it at the same time, as you're running off a 63 amp fuseboard (as Mr Drankin says). So you have plenty to spare.

Otoh, an electric shower will spike at around 40 amps.

True the addition of  the extra pull from the dishwasher would not be enough to cause an overload. My brother expressed concern (sparks who did the wiring for me) that over any given period the with the oven, kettle, toaster, microwave, dishwasher all located in the kitchen and likely to be in use for prolonged periods of time to avoid using the dishwasher. I think it due to the fact that it would run for 3 hours at a time.

Shanna

I ran a cable to my shed from the fuse board in the house and have it on a 32 trip switch using 6 sq cable. Also at the shed end have the same blue and white socket as above. :)

I'll be getting a new shed soon enough and plan to brew in it. Any general advice on wiring that I should pass on to the electrician? Most of the time I'll be using one 2kW element and one 2.5kW element together, which I think can be run off standard 13amp sockets. But every now and then I'll be using either a 3kW or a 3.5kW element. At the moment, I only use the 3kW element in the house on a 16amp socket. If I were to get a 16amp socket put in the shed, would that be enough to handle the 3.5kW element? What would be the ideal set-up to handle these various elements?

Most of us are doing a dedicated 32A l Iine from the mains. It's definitely the way to go if its an option and it will give you room to upscale 

Cool, thanks.

Just a note on live feed sockets. The live feed from the mains should always have a female connector on the live end. The reason being that you don't want to run the risk of getting a jolt by accidentally touching the prong from a male connector.
So if you are plugging the mains into a control panel, mount a male socket on the panel.

Made that mistake when I first did it :o. Thought the cat had kicked me when I touched the prongs. Stupid cat :o. Did you know a cat can fly when you fling them :P.

Quote from: Dr Jacoby on August 07, 2014, 01:08:17 PM
Most of the time I'll be using one 2kW element and one 2.5kW element together, which I think can be run off standard 13amp sockets.

1 kW is approximately 4 amps

So ( 2 + 2.5 ) * 4 does NOT equal 13! n It is in fact a 50% overload!

Yes you may get away with it but the plug will run HOT and the fuse WILL blow at the most inconvienient time.

A fuse as used in a domestic plug blows at about 100% overload. However even though its not blowing it is getting hot and ageing rapidly! So it will fail!

All good advice there. My brother-in-law has a device that you can clip onto the main power line in your fuse box and work out how much amps are being used. So, the plan in the next couple of weeks is to do this and just check all will be ok. I don't have an electric shower, and reviewing everything else we use, I should be well within the limits of the house - probably just need to plan to have the washing done during the week when having a brew day on Saturday, and no running the oven, but can use the gas stove instead for cooking. Should all be ok from my perspective.

I'm on holidays at the moment, and brother-in-law will be next week. So it will be another 2 weeks before we commence again. But we probably only have 2 nights wiring left.

I have some pics below of the wiring so far.

This is all the wiring on the door complete. It just needs to be tidied up into the trunking.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3743_zps651403e1.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3743_zps651403e1.jpg.html)

This is the main wiring in the panel. Need to finish the interlock wiring (photo below), and wiring in the SSRs and meters.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3742_zps1342cddf.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3742_zps1342cddf.jpg.html)

This is the main contactors / relays.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3744_zpscce0dc2f.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3744_zpscce0dc2f.jpg.html)

Sorry on the blurriness on this next photo. This is the interlocks. There are several things going on here - first we have two interlocks so that I can only have a max of 2 elements out of 3 elements running at any given time. Then the other interlocks are for the alarm buzzer and alarm lights. I have one alarm buzzer for the entire panel. I have two timers each with their own alarm light, but linked up to the alarm buzzer. I have an alarm light for the PIDs when hitting temps. The interlocks ensure that when one alarm is on for any of those things, it doesn't light up any of the other alarms. This was a complex bit of interlocking and it required the brother-in-law to work it out - being an experienced panel builder that he is.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3747_zpsb1ebf2ae.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3747_zpsb1ebf2ae.jpg.html)


Overall it was good progress before I went on holidays. Panel is to be complete and the wiring for the house, plus water input leak on the counterflow - then I'll be able to brew. Hopefully sometime in September.

I'm also in the process of getting all the panel labels written up and sent of for printing.

Quote from me back in March about the panel build ..... hilarious...... :-[

Quote from: Ozbrewer on March 25, 2014, 10:28:25 PM

.......I estimate this will take the good part of April to get done due to our own commitments.

However, progress was made this week. We put power into the panel last night and turned it on for the first time.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/Brewerypanel_zps4ce6e5ab.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/Brewerypanel_zps4ce6e5ab.jpg.html)

The temp and volt meter didn't work straight away, but some quick rewiring and changing dc volt outputs on the converter fixed that, a pump light didn't work but a rewire fixed that, all count down timers worked and alarmed independently as designed. The only thing to fix now is the element lights - just a rewire to get them to interlock correctly - however the element switches and the interlocks worked flawlessly.

One more night, tidy up the wiring and the panel will be functional for use. Hopefully complete next week.

Can't believe we started the build of the panel back in March / April. There was a lot of cheering and high-five'ing when we turned it on. Was brilliant to see it lit up.

That looks so cool!

I've decides if I manage to do this, I'm gonna try do it Nixie cubes.

Happy National Homebrew day everyone......

Well, the panel is finished, except for the labels. And today, Sorcerers Apprentice (Rory), put in the electrics - and did a bang up job as well. Anyone looking for a sparky, I can highly recommend Rory.

So, boring photo's of the electrics, just showing the neat work.

Junction box on outside of house
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3789_zps8c83ce9f.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3789_zps8c83ce9f.jpg.html)

Cabling to go over the roof and out to the back. All neatly done. Just under 30 meters of cable.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3791_zps0a323527.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3791_zps0a323527.jpg.html)

Main socket
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3782_zpsaf66d66b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3782_zpsaf66d66b.jpg.html)

Ok - onto the good stuff now. So I had to test everything and then tune in the pids.

BK and HLT in place for testing. No problems really, one minor leak on one fitting on the HERMS coil, a quick tighten and solved.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3788_zpsb791c614.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3788_zpsb791c614.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3781_zpse1e8e288.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3781_zpse1e8e288.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3780_zps25ebe990.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3780_zps25ebe990.jpg.html)

Water on re-circulation. Chugger pump really does the job.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3783_zps46a11955.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3783_zps46a11955.jpg.html)

Flow back into the Mash Tun. Bit slower as the HERMS coil does restrict the flow a bit.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3784_zpsd7987b03.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3784_zpsd7987b03.jpg.html)

The MT temp followed at a close enough rate. I didn't measure times. The HLT water heats up super fast with the two 5500w elements. I'll time everything next time.

Ok - so here is inside the panel. All neat and tidy now....

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3795_zps70096453.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3795_zps70096453.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3797_zpsb2d7990d.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3797_zpsb2d7990d.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3798_zpsbeee6ef2.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3798_zpsbeee6ef2.jpg.html)

Front of the panel again - still need the tags - and you can't see all the lights etc due to position and how sunny it was today.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3785_zps57ae05cf.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3785_zps57ae05cf.jpg.html)

The base with all the cables and probes in place.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3802_zps76e0ee33.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3802_zps76e0ee33.jpg.html)


Ok - so initial overall comments:
- I need to calibrate the temp probes as I think two probes are out by 2 degrees c.
- I have three leaks on the BK, one when cold that disappears under boil, and two when under boil. Should be easy enough fixes.
- I have to check how quickly the mash tun follows the temp of the HLT - but looks ok so far
- The counter flow chiller worked brilliant - the return whirlpool is not fast as the flow is restricted by the 10mm copper pipe, however, it does drop 70 litres from boiling to 25c in 40 mins easy. So I was really happy with this.
- I have one fitting on the pumps that needs a tighten and one quick disconnect fitting needing a tighten as well.
- I need to program the timers
- the panel works as designed with no problems

I tuned everything and the PIDs work brilliantly, no over shooting or under shooting on temps. Overall the system seems really responsive.

Approx. 18 months to get here.

1st brew day on it next weekend.

Thanks for the kind words Rolf and well done for sticking it out and for completing a fantastic project, it's a thing of great beauty. It was a joy to witness your initial "switch on" almost like looking at the kids opening their Christmas presents. Your family will be delighted to get their kitchen table back at last and I look forward to sampling one of your famous Helles brews!!

I had issues with ssr for my 5500kw heating elements in my control panel.  I found that they were over heating when on for a period of time. They would stick and wouldn't let the pids shut them off, the only way to turn them off would be shutting the main power off.

I ended up putting thermal compound between the ssr and heat sinks and setting a 5v pc fan beside them to keep them cool, they work fine now.  The last thing I needed was a burnt out ssr in the middle of a boil.

@SA - thanks Rory. I'll let you know about Saturday as well.

@Mr.Drankin - I have 3 SSRs, a massive heatsink and I've used thermal paste with all of them as well. I also oversized them 2 x 40amp and 1 x 80amp. Apparently they run cooler if they are oversized for the amperage that would be going through them. What size are your SSRs?

I have 2 40 amp ssr's which are connected to 1 camco 5.5kw and 1 2.4kw heating element.  My problem probably is a small enclosure, 400mm x 300mm and small cheap heat sinks I got with the ssrs.   I'll upgrade at some point, although I do think i'd keep a fan inside circulating air because of the the heat.

I oversized the heat sink as well. Bought when I bought the SSRs from Auberins. I think the fan sounds like a good idea.

Are your heatsinks mounted internally? Or externally with a hole in the panel to mount the SSRs on?

You can see in one of my pics above the SSRs on the heatsink and the over abundance of white thermal paste.

Do you have any pictures of your setup? Would be good to see what you have done.

I done a braumeister, biab type of set-up.  Its in belfast homebrewers as shiny experimental set-up.  I have slightly changed it,  put a more secure whirlpool arm in, waiting on a hop spider from america which just leaves a bigger stainless steel enclosure to attach to the side.  It works fine so i'll test a few times in case I think of something new, I dont fancy upgrading again.

Quick question on whirlpool arm, would you keep the diameter at ½inch or reduce to say 10mm to give more power to the whirlpool?

This is something I plan to experiment with, the tube reduced to 3/8 would probably be better I think.  Although it doesn't whirlpool that quick you still get the desired effect with everything settling in the middle. 

Quote from: psham on October 07, 2014, 09:10:19 AM
Quick question on whirlpool arm, would you keep the diameter at ½inch or reduce to say 10mm to give more power to the whirlpool?

From what I can see on my system is that the HLT water recirculates quicker than the wort pump going thought 50' of 1/2 inch coil. The coil restricts flow. On my BK, when recirculating through 30' of 10mm copper for chilling (counterflow), the flow is restricted even more. Reducing your diameter will reduce the flow rate and overall power to the whirlpool.

Interesting.. One for and one against.. I have 10mm arm in place and am not happy with flow rate, it does the job.. Going to test with ½" to see if it improves..

@psham - let me know how you get on with this. My experience says reducing to 10mm will constrict your flow rates, but if you get a different result, it means I have a different problem to think about..

Going to test in the morning.. I'll let you know..

Just did a test.. First clip (the whiter of the two clips) is with ½ inch whirlpool arm, not much power on water coming out, like a slow lazy whirlpool.

The second clip is with 10mm arm, jet is a lot stronger and seems to create a more vigorous whirlpool.

For me I'm going to stick with the smaller diameter whirlpool arm.

Whirlpool with 15mm diameter arm: http://youtu.be/WB4zY9oSv50

Whirlpool with 10mm diameter arm: http://youtu.be/oTd8l4Dbub4

10 points if you guess the music!
I haven't a clue but it's definitely not in my collection  :P

@psham - thanks for posting that. That's really interesting. What pumps are you using?

I've definitely noticed that the coils are restricting flow and that the 10mm is slower on mine. Looks like I need to go check the pumps and see what's happening. I haven't yet tested the actual flow rates per minute yet, but will look to do that this weekend.

When I was testing last weekend I think the pumps were only pulling .7amps when they should be pulling in 1.4amps. Now, I wasn't watching that closely so I need to have a closer look at them now. The water pump recirculating the HLT water though was super fast and in line with other videos I've seen, so I think that is working properly anyway.

The other observation I had was that the volt meter measures approx. 240 / 237 volts but when the elements go on the volt meter reads around the 230 mark. So that could be having an effect on the amp meter reading when running the pumps as well.

I'm hopefully going to be doing my first brew on the system this weekend.

No bother.. I'm using a chugger pump from the group buy a couple of month back..
I thought with the chugger that I would get a more vigorous whirlpool. It does the job but could be better..

@psham are you pumping directly from the kettle through the pump and back in via the return to the kettle or are you pumping through a wort cooler before returning to the kettle?

Kettle to pump and back via return to the kettle.. No chiller between..

That's what I thought, Ozbrewer you might be better bypassing your cooler first to establish a good whirlpool and then while the whirlpool is spinning run the wort through the chiller, your chiller is causing friction losses due to its length and bore

Oz I see you're using those din rail contactors. Are they wired up much different from the ones on the electric brewery?

@SA - thanks. I'm going to test again on the weekend prior to the brew and measure the rate of flow. I figured that the bore and length restricts flow and this is in line with what I've read on the US forums about my type of brew rig.

@armedcor - the contactors aren't wired exactly like the ones on the electric brewery site. The only reason is that we did a few things differently based on the brother in law's recommendation and how I wanted my system to function. We have a lot of interlocking going on to ensure that out of three elements in the system only two can be on at any one time.

However, the contactors do function exactly the same way as on the EB Site and can be wired the same way as well.

First brew on the system completed on Saturday. I'd like to say it was trouble free, but it wasn't - stuck the mash a good few times.

Some details - brewed a Helles Lager, 11.15kg of malt overall, 30 litres of strike water and 53 litres of sparge water. This left me with a boil volume of 70 litres. I believe I could have extracted more if I wanted, perhaps at least another 5 or 6 litres.

I use BeerSmith2 as my brewing software - they estimated a SG of 1.052, and after boil and cooling - SG read 1.052. So I was delighted I hit my starting gravities. My pre-boil gravity was 1.034 @ 65c, which was below the BeerSmith estimate.

Boil off rate was 8.5 litres per hour. I did a 90 minute boil and that left me with approx. 57 litres.

This was a stepped mash and I did manage to stick the mash. I had to stir it a good few times to get it unstuck. This slowed down the step times dramatically. In the last two steps though I managed to get the flow going and recirculate at full flow. Somehow the mash bed settled out ok. I'm guess I was getting a 10 degrees rise over 15 minutes due to ambient temperatures and the size of the grain bill. The HLT came up to temp within minutes. I'm guessing about 5 minutes and the HLT temp had stepped by 10 degrees. So the temp rises in the mash are not being limited by the HERMs coil being in the HLT, but more about flow, volume and ambient temperatures. I measured the temp on the output of the recirculation hose in the MT and it was reading a few degrees below the HLT temp, which means that I may actually be pumping too fast. But once it gets closer to target it evens out. Once the MT reaches mash temp it is the same as the HLT temp and maintains perfectly. So I need to have a think about this. Next brew with a smaller grain bill and see how that makes a difference. Earlier in the day and on previous tests my rises are at least 1 degree a minute. All in all, not so much a problem as I still hit my targets, which I'm delighted about.

The stuck mash I think is due to the mill on the grain and perhaps a little too much strike water to start with. I think I could have dropped the strike water by about 5 litres. The grain I have was pre-milled, and I believe from some reading on the weekend it's a pretty fine mill when you purchase that way. Apparently if I were to mill myself, I should be milling at .048" or even .05" for the system that I have. So I will test this next time.

Pump times - I thought this was worth noting as well. I have the chugger pumps.

Pumping direct, not through a coil but through say 10ft of tubing from HLT to BK as a test: 13 litres a minute
Pumping from MT, through 8 feet of hosing and 50ft of tubing: 7.5 litres a minutes

From what I can see on the Electric Brewery forum, this in line with what other people are getting. I was wondering if any of the chugger pump owners here have done a test and what flow rates you have seen.

I have to say it was breeze using the control panel, and everything functioned correctly there. Raising to boil was fine and the 5.5kw element set at 80% manual had no trouble maintaining a rolling boil at 13 degrees ambient temperature. Counterflow chiller brought the wort down from boiling to 16 degrees in under an hour, I would say about 40 minutes but didn't measure it to be honest.

So, I ended up with 29 litres in each fermentation bucket, that included the pitched yeast volumes. So almost 60 litres of beer fermenting away now. Samples tasted good going into the fermenters as well.

And as per usual, photo's below.

So I brew outdoors, on the deck now. Wife is delighted I'm not in the kitchen anymore, and I have to say I really like it as well. The deck is covered and water proof so no hassle if it were to rain. Here is the rig set up and the brew underway.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3805_zps1616b227.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3805_zps1616b227.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3809_zps53d3ccc8.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3809_zps53d3ccc8.jpg.html)

Inside the panel again...

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3817_zps6375909b.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3817_zps6375909b.jpg.html)

Just started the boil here.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3818_zpscc0527e2.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3818_zpscc0527e2.jpg.html)

End of boil. there is a hop filter under all that.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3826_zpsfe4b8c55.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3826_zpsfe4b8c55.jpg.html)

And someone asked previously some comments / feedback on the hop filter. Well, I think it did the job superbly, and I'm really happy. I recirculated through the counterflow at full bore and not problems.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3829_zps105b0b11.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3829_zps105b0b11.jpg.html)

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3832_zps826f7715.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3832_zps826f7715.jpg.html)

And the product in the fridge.

(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3828_zpsd139e6a9.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3828_zpsd139e6a9.jpg.html)

Overall - it was enjoyable and great to use the system. As it was my first go, I'll just need to get over the stuck mash and the rise times that resulted from that. I'm glad I went with a 100 litre pot for the BK. 70 litres for the MT and HLT are fine. Everything works as designed, so really happy overall. There is more to clean though, but I'm ok with that.

Over the next weeks I will get a parts list and links together in an excel spread sheet, and keep you posted on subsequent brews as I dial in the system. Next time I'll try to get a video as well.

Congrats. Great to hear all went well after following the build all this time.

Thanks Nigel, and thanks for following along. It was a long build and I'm glad I'm at the end now and being able to use the system.

Is your application into revenue yet?

Done anymore brews on this (cheap :P) kit ye put together there :)

@Dempsey - Yeah.  I've done three more so far - Weiss (Schneider tap 7 clone), Rye IPA, and an APA.

The Weiss was my first attempt at one in a very long time. I milled my own grain, used a gap size of .05", 60% wheat malt, circulated with the chuggers full open and no stuck mash. Mill gap makes a big difference - got mash efficiency of just a bit over 90%. On the IPA and APA I got upto the 95% mash efficiency. 

Hitting numbers are a lot easier now. Sparging is easy and consistency here is key to maintaining the high effeciency numbers.

Step mashing is a breeze. Temps come up pretty quick. I'm brewing outdoors, under cover though, so some thermal heat loss in the mash tun does occur, so I run the hlt a few degrees hotter. The timers to time everything are massively handy, especially for the boil kettle - setup the alarm to fire on all the hop additions, makes it super easy and I don't have to worry about missing an addition.

I use all the alarm switches for the three PIDs and two timers. Very handy on the PIDs in particular, set the alarms to go off as things reach the desired temps.

The system pulls about 42amps when both pumps and both elements are running.

Note to all brewers out there: the main fuse on your switch board in your house may have an 80amp fuse.  I looked at mine, and it has a type II / 60-80amp fuse sticker. So I rang ESB and asked them what size fuse I have. They rang me back and confirmed its 80amps. So they do keep records of this and you can find out if you want, and ask them to put in an 80amp if you need it.

I've run the system with washing machine, and dishwasher on and a few other appliances and no drama.

I calculated the running time of the elements and the amount of amps they pull and for how long, plus the run time of the panel and pumps and the amps they pull and for how long. Calculated this down to kilowatts per hour and then calculated the cost from my electricity supplier - comes in about 3.50 euro per brew session of 53 litres at end of boil. By my calculations I think this is cheaper than gas where people are only getting 7 or 8 brews out of a 11kg propane bottle (if that's correct).

I made a change to false bottom solution. I replaced the beer line tubing with silicone tubing along the edge of the false bottom, and this works like a charm. The blichmann dip tube in the mash tun works very well and it's great to be able to unscrew the dip tube and take out the false bottom for cleaning.

Overall - I really love it. It's so fun to use. I have setup and cleaning routines sorted now and they really work well and are easy to manage. I wouldn't change anything now and would build,it the same again.

I have some more pictures and a video I'm meaning to put up, along with the list of suppliers and links to everything bought - just been too busy lately, but should get this done in the next week or two.

Now that I have some brews done again, I was thinking of coming along to the Liffey Brewers meet at the end of this month.

I would LOVE to see that list of suppliers. I'm not able to go full scale 3 vessel electric brewery (yet!) but I am working on setting up a single vessel BIAB following Kal's build. Now once I get that 3 phase circuit in... >:D

Great to have you and we can have a chat about your build as well :)

Just a note about fuses:

The ESB fuse in a consumer unit is a conventional wire fuse.

A wire fuse typically blows at 100% overload (i.e. A short circuit)

If you over use the circuit by say 50% (e.g. 13 amp fuse supplying 20 amps) (This is a typical: plug 2 boilers into a socket strip scenario) then the fuse won't blow. Things will get hot but you will get away with it.

Downside is that the fuse wire has got hot and has thinned down a small amount so that instead of blowing at 26 Amps it has aged and so will blow at 24 Amps. Repeat the scenario and it thins out some more and that is why fuses blow when there is NOT a short circuit or fault in the load. Its called ageing and happens to all devices and especially Welshmen.

So if you are over driving the ESB main fuse just buy a spare!

HTH: Will

Quote from: Will_D on January 14, 2015, 08:24:06 PM

If you over use the circuit by say 50% (e.g. 13 amp fuse supplying 20 amps) (This is a typical: plug 2 boilers into a socket strip scenario) then the fuse won't blow. Things will get hot but you will get away with it.

So does that mean you can get away with using a 4500 watt element on a 13 amp circuit provided nothing else is running on the circuit?

Nope. 4500w / 220v = 21amps
I think you could run it through an oven supply.

Modern pumped showers run at in and around the same demand as Ozbrewer's brewery,  eg Mira Elite T90 etc. no one thinks of shutting everything down when someone's having a shower, just don't run another shower at the same time, and don't go mad banging things on at the same time. If the brewery is drawing 42 amps that's only a little over half of his 80 amp supply. As Will has said don't continually overload the 80 amp supply as eventually the fuse will soak out and that particular fuse is sealed,  you need to remove the seal to replace the fuse and there's a fine for removing the seal.

PS anyone thinking of building an electric brewery as per Ozbrewer needs to take professional electrical advice, it is not a diy project. Electrical regulations differ between here and other juristinctions. It is not necessary to install a 3 phase supply but will need a dedicated supply and in the event that there already is an electric shower installed, then a device needs to be installed to prevent both running simultaneously

Thought I might give a quick update in two posts - some new pics and the list of suppliers as best I can.

6 brews on the system and I couldn't be happier. Best thing I ever did. It works very much as expected and I find I'm still using all the features on the control panel, in particular the alarms on the pids and the timers. Those alarms really make it a lot easier on brew day. The size of the 100lt boil kettle was spot on. I've been brewing double batches and ending up with 2 x 33lt fermenters full of beer into the fermentation fridge.

I managed to get all the labels done and onto the panel. There is one mistake where I have "mash element" when it should be "boil element" but I will get around to getting a new label eventually. But the labels make the panel. Here come the pics....

All clean and washed up after a brew:
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3899_zpsfa5e075d.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3899_zpsfa5e075d.jpg.html)

The panel with the labels:
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3906_zpsbca7eadd.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3906_zpsbca7eadd.jpg.html)

The name of my brewery:
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae75/Ozbrewer/IMG_3901_zps3450dc64.jpg) (http://s959.photobucket.com/user/Ozbrewer/media/IMG_3901_zps3450dc64.jpg.html)

Here is the list of suppliers that I have used; they cover all equipment and materials purchased for the building of my electric brewery. If you have any questions, or think something might be missing, let me know and I will update/edit the list.

PIDs, Temp Probes, Timers, SSR's, Switches, Lights, Heatsink
http://www.auberins.com/

3 ½" LED Blue Volt Meter, Amp Meters, Temp
http://stores.ebay.com/niceanna758595/

Adjustable DC power supply (4-30V AC/DC input, 1.5-27V DC output)
http://stores.ebay.com/niceanna758595/

Chugger Pumps
Danny Suozzo
Tri-State Pump Inc
5044 Industrial Road, Suite C
Farmingdale, NJ 07727
Ph (732) 223-3222
Fax (732) 223-2587
Dan@pumps-parts.com

Control Panel
Demense Electrical, http://www.demesne.ie/

Brew Stand
wood from TJ O'Mahony or Brooks, http://www.tjomahony.ie/ or http://www.brooksgroup.ie/

Brew Stand – all bolts, coach screws etc
TJ O'Mahony. I found them to be the cheapest. http://www.tjomahony.ie/

1 x 100lt, 2 x 70lt kettles
Catering-Portal.Bergland@msg.afterbuy.de
If you setup a shipito account, email the Bergland guys and get them to ship it to your shipito account, don't mention Dublin, which has an address in Austria, you might still be able to buy these at the cheap cost. I don't believe anyone has tried this yet, but worth a shot.

Camco 5500watt heating elements, gang boxes for housing, heating element nuts, silicon O-rings
www.amazon.com

Silicon O-Rings
http://www.abbeyseals.ie/

Castor Wheels for Brew Stand
http://www.castormart.com/

Neutrik Plugs and Connectors
www.thomann.de
By far and away the cheapest I could find.

Blichmann False bottom
www.hopandgrape.co.uk

Hop stopper and sight glasses
www.homebrewbuilder.co.uk

Silicon Tubing (12mm ID, 21mm OD)
Tubing walls very thick
http://www.ebay.ie/usr/unitedsilicones2011?_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2754

Stainless Fittings + herms coil
www.stainlessbrewing.com

Stainless Steel Quick disconnects (ZJ-KC-04-SF, ZJ-KC-04-PM)
frank@aikecoupling.com, http://aikecoupling.com/Products_Show-2370.html

All Electrical Cables
http://www.kellihers.com/ or http://www.demesne.ie/

Panel Tags
http://www.signsbannerstags.ca/

Internal Panel Switches, relays, interlocks, wiring, trunking, connectors etc
http://www.demesne.ie/ or www.auberins.com

Hole Punches (Sheet Metal)
http://search.handyhardware.ie/search/Price-Less_than_%24100--keywords-sheet_metal_punch

All Tools
B&Q and www.handyhardware.ie

Fitting (Brass and Stainless) for Counterflow Chiller
www.bss.ie
White Heather Industrial Estate
301 South Circular Road
Dublin 8
T: +353 14 165100 +353 14 165100

Spray Painting of Panel
http://www.qualitypowdercoating.ie/

Thanks Ozbrewer. I appreciate the time in compiling this one stop list.

Awesome !!! More pictures please !

Thanks for this, it'll be a big help during my build. I'm working on a single vessel biab design.

I've been referencing this constantly when getting parts for my 3V build. Very helpful.