Loved the recipe and write up. Nice work both Partridge and Rossa. :)
Here's a related quetion abou adding the DME at 55 mins after the first hop addition. I know there's no real need to boil the snot out of dme (already processed wort) and it just needs to be sanitised. But why add at 55 mins? Would adding 2kg of cold matter to the wort not bring the temp back down below boiling point? So would it not be easier to add before the first hop addition and to slightly bump up the 60 min hops?
Any other thoughts or ideas?
Exactly, cause you'd need less hops right?
QuoteLoved the recipe and write up. Nice work both Partridge and Rossa. :)
Here's a related quetion abou adding the DME at 55 mins after the first hop addition. I know there's no real need to boil the snot out of dme (already processed wort) and it just needs to be sanitised. But why add at 55 mins? Would adding 2kg of cold matter to the wort not bring the temp back down below boiling point? So would it not be easier to add before the first hop addition and to slightly bump up the 60 min hops?
Any other thoughts or ideas?
I have read a bit on DME and adding late V early, some claim it results in better hop utilisation -
From what I can conclude - you may as well add it early - I add it as soon as it comes to the boil - or within 5 mins.
I have brewed a pale ale adding the DME at 60 mins - I'll have it at the next capital brewers meeting if you require some substance to the arguement.
In hindsight - I should have put 60mins - would have been clearer.
I have got great feedback from people, and I am working on a much more detailed brewing process.
FYI -
Thanks for your positive feedback - and glad you liked the article.
Last thing - adding 2kg of DME has little impact temp - no need to worry.
I added 4kg of DME in the last demo and the temp drop was <2 C
The 'stickyness' you refer to isnt an issue, it practically disolves as you pour it in, the consistancy and viscositiy are identical to the wort in an all grain brew - as you could see with the difference between myself and Rossa's numbers (very little).
Your elements looked fine after I added 4kg in TOG (i hope :P)
- thanks for the use of your boiler by the way !!
My opinion is to add the DME at the start (or within the first few minutes) - I am basing that on the Jamil podcasts and the reading I have done on Extract brewing (very much based on the research I did for the demo). I have to say the recemmended 'textbook' way of making extract is to add the extract when the water comes to the boil.
I have heard nothing convincing to suggest doing otherwise.
but I appreciate that others have different opinions.
I think that adding DME is not going to a problem for the elements.
HOWEVER, adding LME is another matter. I would NOT pour 2 tins or so into a boiler with electric elements!
Instead: Drain off 3 litres of hot wort into a big pot, add a can of LME, stir stir stir!, rinse can from kettle(water) or boiler(wort) and add back to boiler.
If more cans to be added - repeat the above!
+1 on the LME -
Pour it in real slow and stir well - or do as will says and remove some wort and dissolved it in that.
I've added LME to a boiler with electric elements many times; just kick off the heat, add the LME, then make sure it's all stirred up and dissolved before kicking back on the elements.
Saving the extract for the end will CERTAINLY get you better hop utilization; and less wort darkening although that's obviously not an issue with the Tsunami porter. I'm not sure about adding it with only 5 minutes left to the boil though as you really want that extra addition to go all the way through it's mini hot-break.
Adam