Afternoon.
I'm looking to convert a very specific type of 11 gallon stainless steel container into a HLT. The stainless steel container I have is remarkably similar to a Guinne$$ keg.
I want it upside down so that it drains dry every time, and so I can use the original out (which is ordinarily at the top) as the drain. The hole, once all the spear stuff has been removed, is 50mm or 2". I need a reducing bush to turn this two inches into a more useable 3/4" or so. Has anyone here tried this? Does the thread on a standard brass fitting match the thread in a keg?
I was hoping to do this quite cheaply (€5), but I suppose I could use triclove clamps if I couldn't find a product to suit.
These exist: http://www.pipefittingsdirect.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d5.html
and http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-reducing-bush-/171252049399
but is the zinc galvanise OK in potable water, and will the threads match?
Anyone tried this before?
Have not tried this but did think about it ;). A guy on JBK has done this but I think he went down the tri-clamp way.http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=62241&start=30
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7409/11967524824_1c2dc749f4_b.jpg)
[Edit: no need to attach a pic already on the web, just link to it!]
Would you not get a big hop dead spot in the valve during the boil?
Copper is standard, hole cut in the top. I just want the HLT upside down.
Apologies Tom you did state that in your op.
S'alright. I've a similar worry with the HLT, there's going to be a coldspot below the element. Could be a couple of litres wasted each time.
Funny you should say that I still use a plastic bucket for mine even though I have a HLT keg with all the trimmings winking at me on the shelf, much easier to handle, wash,
Clean out, heat, I guess.
2 elements at 10 to 2 and a drain at 6 all an inch off the floor
I have a thermowell almost at the outlet and it can measure up to 7-10 degrees between top and what's going out the drain!!
Quote from: Tom on March 18, 2014, 04:18:02 PM
S'alright. I've a similar worry with the HLT, there's going to be a coldspot below the element. Could be a couple of litres wasted each time.
Would stirring the contents of your HLT not help to alleviate this by mixing the hot water around.
Shanna
That's far too complicated to remember!!
It would and I put my stainless steel paddle in to make sure I don't draw from my mash temp as well
Aye, the micros do recirculate the liquor with a pump to even out the temperature (by getting the liquor a few degrees higher so that it evens out at strike heat). I want my pints to work out at €FA so it's all gravity, no pumps, and that means no room to stir. The HLT will be a couple of inches off the ceiling.
Condensation problems on the roof are for another thread! ;)
Still no alternative to a Tri Clover fitting?
What about unscrewing your valve pull out the spring and button on valve inverting and putting a lever valve on your spear?
A drain plug as in domestic water tanks with a silicon washer on a keg the right way up is the way I would be going
Spear is about 13mm diameter, so won't fit a 15mm (1/2") compression joint at all, and my plumbing is crap already, so inverted spear is probably not going to work. Good idea though.
I want the bottom exit to drain it completely between brews, so there's no mould growth or anything, so I want to eliminate all raised bits that could stop it draining completely. However, even with a brass bush there's going to be a lip on which water can collect, so I think I'll probably have to try the bottom drain.
Could also go the dip tube method. Could get all of it out seeing as there'll be no hops in it (unless I start hopping my strike water).
A piece of silicone tubing and a clothes peg ;)
Aye, right enough! Just seen http://www.pdplumbingsupplies.com/pipes-and-fittings/350-flanged-tank-connector-with-backnut/ for the hot water cylinders.
Method:
Step drill bit, silicone washer, fit the part, get pissed off when the concave base means I don't get a good seal, kick keg, start again with old fermentor.
Quote from: Tom on March 18, 2014, 06:47:04 PM
Aye, right enough! Just seen http://www.pdplumbingsupplies.com/pipes-and-fittings/350-flanged-tank-connector-with-backnut/ for the hot water cylinders.
Method:
Step drill bit, silicone washer, fit the part, get pissed off when the concave base means I don't get a good seal, kick keg, start again with old fermentor.
Apply liberal amount of food grade sealant to avoid kicking
I might read up on BIAB 'til I get my head around it all.
BIAB v's AG coming soon watch GCB space!
Quote from: CH on March 18, 2014, 09:45:57 PM
BIAB v's AG coming soon watch WGB space!
BIAB is AG! Shame on you CH!
Tom,
Its a bit late but here goes:
The standard keg is 2" by 14 tpi There is NO equivalent pipe fitting!
Use a tri-clover
Or
Take the spear down to you local welder, Strip it down and in particular remove the 2" 'o-ring'.
You friendly local welder now has a 2 x 14 male fitting with watever is left when its stripped down. A spear has at least two pathways: gas and beer. Eventually he should end up with the 2 x 14 outer fitting. He can then weld any bsp fitting into this that you need.
May actually be cheaper to go tri-clover though - unless you married the welders mother!
Tri clover it is then! At least I can stop my headscratching now. Cheers.
Sorry Ciderhead, I've no idea what a W G B space is!
Quote from: RichC on March 18, 2014, 09:57:09 PM
Quote from: CH on March 18, 2014, 09:45:57 PM
BIAB v's AG coming soon watch WGB space!
BIAB is AG! Shame on you CH!
Is it uck as like ;)
its sex wearing socks
Or y fronts instead of boxers
WCB = GCBrewers, CH will remember that someday ... Bit like learning his 'times' tables
Oh, and us BIABers will show him how to do it ;-)
That's for tax reasons, you'll never take me alive copper.