Quote from: Will_D on May 14, 2014, 10:41:59 AM
I know we can get spam filters but what about "geeky interesting stuff" filters.
You have now totally wrecked my plans for the day. I will now sit in front of the computer reading about this and then dismantling my stc-1000s.
THANKS A LOT >:D
Well BO**OX ye lot!
Just openned up a spare STC-1000 and what do I Fekinn find inside?
Yes you guessed it, a crappity smaking A400-P version 1.0 just like the Effing photo!
So now what do I do?
Right dig out the Arduino thats what!
And where did you buy it?
So am starting a new thread.
Maybe a mod could tidy up the previous hijacked thread.
In answer to the last couple of questions:
I can find no distinguishing marks on it at all!
I bought it off the bay from a Chinese source mixtea I think
I have 3 in use at the moment so I will chech them as well.
I am using one of them just as a temp display and how mant hacked STC do I need. Will check and may swap.
I think James also has 1 that I supplied from same.
Started new thread for this;
https://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/forum/index.php/topic,6789.0.html
So maybe a mod can prune out the STC stuff
So I decided to defrost the freezer - this meant I couldn't do much more than use the computer and the Arduino!
So managed to upload and run the code on a UNO.
In order to do this I had to delete the Farhenheit constant defs!
Prog was too big for the Uno: 32,256 bytes.
Removing the Fahrenheit reduced code to 19k or so!
Next is to solder some wires to the board. I don't fancy using too much heat on the compent side to clear the holes as there are some surface mount components very close to it.
I will solder jumper wires to the back of the board.
Now its time to stop the hands shaking so its a quick pint in the rugby club then dig out the soldering iron.
I'll be following this with interest. I hope you are taking pics?
So an Update:
Took the STC apart:
(http://i.imgur.com/geMu5tx.jpg?1)
And its the correct version
Now I am going to solder on the reverse side (as stated above the component side has some microscopic surface mounts very close to the through holes.
So clean up the back of the board with a glass fibre pcb brush (or a sharp scalpel/needle)
(http://i.imgur.com/iXwRk52.jpg?1)
Now make up a Arduino Jumper:
(http://i.imgur.com/XutoBu1.jpg)
So after a few pints in the club (Yes it does stop the shakes! ), warm up my smallest soldering iron and attatch the wires:
(http://i.imgur.com/kqKZNHT.jpg)
From left to right:
Orange is mCLR connected to Arduino pin 3
Red: +5 Volts
Black: Ground
Grey: Data Arduino pin 8
Yellow: Clock Arduino pin 9
Ok so far so good.
Now for the software bit and the upload:
Uploaded the sketch to the IDE and it compiles!
Try to upload the sketch and after a while get some daft error message. Turns out program is too big for a Uno.
Now the bulk of the upload to the Arduino is hex data to be uploaded to the STC. It comes with both Farhenheit Program and Data uploads as well as the 2 for Celsius. So delete the Farhenheit definitions. Size drops from 30K to about 19k and it uploads cleanly.
Now its time to connect the STC.
The STC is NOT to be connected to the mains! It is powered by the Arduino!
Connect just the power to the STC and it powers up and says EE. This is because sensor is not connected. Ok the documentation does say somewhere this should be done but I don't think it caused me a problem.
Ok at least its powered. Now disconnect power, connect the 3 logic lines and the power. All hell breaks loose. The uploader starts automatically and so theres lots of text in the Serial Momonitor and the IDE monitor window.
At the end there are loads of error from the 'avr_dude' whoever he is.
No sign of life on the STC at all. No red lights!
Oh and by the way the COM 4 port is now gone from the IDE.
Ho hum! Its near bed time and I've been at this for about 8 hours off and on.
BTW: The freezet is now spotlessly clean and empty and the brewery floor is dry.
Mrs D's comment: "See you can muli-task Will"
Part 2 commimming up
Part the second:
After a good nights sleep and dreaming of robotic sheep( >:D) a few niggles were at me:
1. Must connect the sensor.
2. Stop the auto-load
3. Add a bit of diagnostic printing to the code
4. Take it slowly
5. And analysing point 4 why the fe(k does he state in the documentation to set the serial port to 115,200 baud?
I decided to set it to 19,200
Checked things out slowly, uploaded new sketch, powered on ok, powered off.
Connected 3 logic lines and the power. Still all ok and com 4 working
Send the 'd' command (checks the device) and ok device is there. Com 4 still ok
Use the 'p' command and yes it reads a data word. When accessing the STC there is a slight clicking from the alarm buzzer. Note there are a number of supported (but not in his pdf doc) commands in the serial monitor - I will document and add help to the code.
Ok so far so good.
Now try the 'a' command to upload both Program and data to the STC. After much clicking and scrolling:
(http://i.imgur.com/uZp6bAC.jpg)
Bugga me with a broom handle it Fekkin works.
So played with the menus and all seems ok!
Enough for now, time to get the supper on the go.
Part 3 should have the upadated code, documentation, note about physical problems (as is it wont go back in the case), also bring the programming wires out side may invalidate an insulation requirement. Also if I have another one I will try to make up a 5 pin probe that can be used to flash program other peoples STCs without the need to solder.
Please note that so far all we are getting is a loader to upload his STC software. I think how this s/w is designed and coded and compiles is somewhere in his system and may be available.
Till later
After a frustrating day or two trying to get a simple data logger working I nowe have an arduino prog that logs 3 temperatures. So now to program up a profile, connect the heater and run a 48 hour test.
Results will follow!
Hi Will. I've got my first STC in a box on the bookcase. VERY pretty for £15 (couldn't wait).
What's the craic with programming it then? Is it to have a fermentation profile that could include a diacetyl rest, for example, or gradual decrease in temperature without having to adjust the STC all the time? Or is it simply an excuse to bocha (as they say in Wales)?
Also, can I use the STC just as a thermometer for now? I want to see if it works, but don't know if I should test it out without a load, if you know what I mean.
Hi Tom,
The STC-1000 out of the box is a very capable temperature controller.
Just power it up and it acts as a thermometer.
Connect the heating and cooling circuits and it acts as a temperature controller: Too warm and the fridge kicks in, Too Cold and the brew belt kicks in.
This project is all about reprogramming the STC's controller. Its a bit techy and needs an Arduino to manage the flashing (read: New code upload) and some soldering skills. If you manage it you have now upgraded to the STC-1000+:
In a nutshell the new functionality is:
Basically the STC-1000 will now act as a fermentation controller:
6 defined fermentation profiles!
Each profile can have up to 10 setpoints.
A setpoint can run for up to 999 hours!
It will interpolate/ramp up to 64 intermediate steps between the 2 setpoints
It also acts as a normal STC!
There are 2 versions of STC-1000 available and there is no way to tell externally which is flashable and which is not!
Great work Will!
What is the procedure with changing the Temp profile on the STC?
Is it possible to tweak the temp profile on the STC via the buttons or hook it to Arduino?
Quote from: johnrm on May 22, 2014, 11:42:57 PM
Great work Will!
What is the procedure with changing the Temp profile on the STC?
Is it possible to tweak the temp profile on the STC via the buttons or hook it to Arduino?
You only need the Arduino to upload the new code and data to the STC.
All the profiles and parameters are then settable using the buttons.
If theres a power cut it rembers where it is in the profile and starts from there!
Ah, of course there is a timer in there! I assumed that it had to be plugged in permanently, but the compressor delay obviously uses some sort of timer chip. Once you've got it programmed, can you remove the arduino jumpers and get it back in the original box, assuming you've uploaded all the profiles you want?
Quote from: Tom on May 23, 2014, 12:14:45 PM
Ah, of course there is a timer in there! I assumed that it had to be plugged in permanently, but the compressor delay obviously uses some sort of timer chip. Once you've got it programmed, can you remove the arduino jumpers and get it back in the original box, assuming you've uploaded all the profiles you want?
No need as all the parameters/profiles/settings can be done with just the buttons. No need for any more Arduino!
In fact my Arduino is now logging the temps of a test demi-john!
Why isn't this commercially available?! There must be a market for that. STCs are used for nearly EVERYTHING, surely a programmable STC would sell just as well.
Aaaanyway. I'm impressed Will.
Really its the guy in Sweden (Matts) who did a HELL OF A LOT of hard work on this. I just downloaded his code and managed to flash 3 STC-1000s I had.
Like a lot of programmers he believes in the GNU free software philosophy so that's it: Its freely available!
I checked my stc collection and none of them have the 5 programmable header pin jobbies :( Does that mean I'm goosed? Or are there other pins on my stc that can be used instead?
Bad news I'm afraid. If its not a version 1.0 board with the 5 pads then its no use.
These are not V 1.0 and V 1.1 of the same design they are two totally different boards/controller chips.
Its pot luck at the mo on the bay as to which you will get.
Other thing is:
In my case I have 4 of these. Most are just used as simple fridge/freezer controllers and thermometers. 3 are now flashed and one cannot be. Two will be swapped locally and if I get V 1.0 they will be flashed as well.
I only have 1 fermentation fridge!
So have a word with your mates they may well have a few that they can swap.
I was thinking as much. I'll have a few words with the Cork lads and see if anyone has a v1.0 to swap.
Thanks for posting Will. It looks like a great project.
The only identification feature that applies to mine is the size of the cross-head screw in the cover plate over the terminals at the back: small = 1.1 (no good) Large = 1.0 Flashable :)
I spy a price-hike on STC1000 v1.0s!
So after running a 4 day test I realise that:
1. Don't power the Arduino quick and dirty data logger off of an old laptop that kills the USB power when it hinernates.
2. The STC-1000+ is much more reliable than my data logger!
3. Its really pretty good at what it does.
Image 1 is the temp profile and what was achieved; It looks like my fridge couldn't drop the temp in 8 hours or the logger eff'd up. Before we hit the 2 degrees set point the logger crashed out!
4. Second image shows performance at the 2C set and hold point
Over on the original site someone has noticed a distinguising feature:
Look at the green connector blocks at the back.
The mains in is on your left, then the probe then the 2 relay contacts.
If there is almost no gap between the mains and the probe connector then its a flashable one.
If there is a gap the same width as between the relays then its NOT flashable.
Offer still stands to flash them for you!
So..this is a first post, so hello...
I'm looking to turn a fridge into a fermentation heater/chiller later. I was planning on putting a standard brewing heating plate under the fermenter, running the AC wires out of the fridge. Then having something that'd let me set the internal temp of the fridge to 40C, 23C, 4C depending on what stage or what brew I was doing (mead likes 40C).
Does...the ST1000 make that happen ? Curiously, I can't find mention of an ST-1000+ anywhere. Is that why people are giving out ?
I'm also unclear...why are people involving an arduino ? Is that just to log temperature out somewhere else ? That's a great idea, but I can't help thinking an arduino that farts out UDP packets to your home server would be the best idea...
I've done a good bit of Arduino stuff, but..I assume I'd need 240VAC relays to turn on/off the heater or the fridge supply. What do people use for that ?
Hi and welcome to the forum.
For heating and cooling you just need an STC-1000 - easily found on the 'bay for about €14
The 1000+ project is an experimental reprogramming ofproject of the basic 1000 and uses the Arduino to download the program to the opened up STC-1000 to which you have soldered 5 wires to it. This downloads the new firmware - you then remove the wires and put back together.
We will be at the maker fare in Dublin next Saturday demoing the process!
Awesome, I'll be there early on Saturday (I've a BBQ to run in the afternoon). I've mailed two or three ebay resellers, asking about the distances between the probe and the mains blocks, but they all said they are the same as between the relays. I'm sure I'll find one in time :)
John
Actually, can someone let me know which ebay stores had the v1.0 ? (Or sell me one, for a premium ;)
@Will, I have 2 of these.
Are you saying that they can operate in factory and still have '+ mode'?
How is the profile set in + mode?
Can I bundle these off to you for flashing? I could but don't want to get into arduino programming.
Hi John,
Yes once flashed they will still behave like the basic ootb one.
I will send you the documentation for you to read!
Are you comming up to Dublin for the RDS as I can get them of you then.
There's a buachaill on JBK selling a few V1.0 STC-1000's at the moment.
http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=67702
Wooohoo, grabbed one!
I just flashed 2 of them using Brians Arduino.
Pretty simple, the soldering is the only slow bit.
Anyone in Cork need this doing?
@Taf, yours is flashed.
Hey ho Well Done!!
You know there is also a mash PId version ( reason for the small d is there's no derivative control in the PID algorithm!)
Am about to flash one up and see!
Have you a link for this? Same chap?
Its on Mats' Github page:
But slightly hiden in the work area:
https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000pi/tree/work
Cool.
For the ignorant, how would that work? Some sort of inline chiller / heater and a pump, doing the recirculation ?
1 hit, 1 miss.
Looks like I'm buying an arduino.
I had a look at the PI project, pretty cool of it gets up and running. Using the hot side to heat and the cold side to pump, clever!
Lads,
Is there anywhere to reliably get the v1.0 stc-1000?
I picked up an arduino and then when I went through the process of flashing my stc i realised i didnt have the right version.
not really. unless you buy them from someone who knows the difference or you get to look at it first to check
Thats a pity, it does seem like random pick n mix.
Its not really worth buying a bunch and hoping to get the right one.
well, buy one and expect it to be an STC1000 and nothing more.
if it turns out to be a flashable version then... bonus
So doing a bit more research, it seems there are alternative routes to getting similar results.
Over on the HBT forum someone found out that with an old pc or with a raspberry pi and an arduino you can basically get the same setup.
I dont know what the story is here with linking to other forums, but I'll thow up the link and the mods can delete my post if needed.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/howto-make-brewpi-fermentation-controller-cheap-466106/ (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/howto-make-brewpi-fermentation-controller-cheap-466106/)
I managed to flash my STC-1000 to matsstaff's STC-1000+ firmware succesfully earlier today. The instructions now on https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p are very comprehensive.
As I can't solder, I went with just holding the pin header against the programming header points. In order to allow the pin header to make contact, the protective coating on the pcb over the programming points needs to be scraped away. I did this with the tip of a penknife and the contact/firmware upload worked fine first time. The upload process takes about 20 seconds, so it's not that tricky.
Here's an equipment list with what I used, where I ordered it from, and the price. Note that the STCs from this aliexpress seller should be the correct programmable version:
STC-1000
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/7659359906.html
€ 18.27
6P 2.54MM Stackable Long Connector Female Pin Header
http://www.banggood.com/Stackable-Long-Pins-Header-Connector-Female-Kit-p-88504.html
€ 1.06
http://www.banggood.com/UNO-R3-ATmega328P-Development-Board-For-Arduino-No-Cable-p-964163.html
Geekcreit™ UNO R3 ATmega328P Development Board For Arduino No Cable
€3.57
40pcs 20cm Male to Male Color Breadboard Cable Jump Wire Jumper
http://www.banggood.com/40pcs-20cm-Male-to-Male-Color-Breadboard-Cable-Jump-Wire-Jumper-p-70127.html
€1.78
Already had:
USB cable
Laptop
https://youtu.be/ujV3avUoo04
If anyone wants a hand doing this (if the STC is the correct version) I'm happy to help - I'm in Shankill.
Nice job