Due to the upcoming water charges, I'm thinking of trying the Australian No Chill method. But what is a suitable type of container for this? Would this work? http://www.homebrewwest.ie/vinotainer-20-litre-92-p.asp
Why not the fermenter?
I got a 20L one in Woodies (http://www.woodiesdiy.com/Product/proplus-20l-water-carrier/19637/4.7.2#.U_t3k9iPIb0). They have one with a tap too.
Were you on the apple juice group buy last year? That 25L drum would do the trick too.
Quote from: shiny on August 25, 2014, 06:32:49 PM
Why not the fermenter?
You can't squeeze the air out of a fermenter :(
Yep, I have the 25l container from the cider juice group buy - would the 2l extra headspace not cause any problems?
It will be fine. What brew lengths do you do?
You just need to squeeze the air out until there's no head space left. It's just about manageable if you place the drum on its side, with the cap at top. Sit on drum and then bleed the air out slowly. Just remember that the drum is going to be 80+℃. Put some insulation in your jocks. Not the glass wool stuff ???
I got one like THIS (http://www.sanplatec.co.jp/image/product/san2639.jpg) in the co-op for about €6.
Seems to do the job.
I use a corny and purge the head space with CO2.
Quote from: LordEoin on August 25, 2014, 10:31:01 PM
I got one like THIS (http://www.sanplatec.co.jp/image/product/san2639.jpg) in the co-op for about €6.
Seems to do the job.
Hi Lord Eoin,
What is the capacity of that container?
Shanna
20l. They have them in a few different sizes
Well, it says 20l but it's closer to 21.5 to 22
I'm looking at no chill for when i move to BIAB. Would these containers be able to handle the hot wort?
http://www.arro.ie/Products/25LTR-FRESH-WATER-CONTAINER__SPECWATER001.aspx
Good find i was just looking for some earlier. It doesn't mention what type of plastic it is in the ad though. It they're HDPE you're good to go.
I got a couple of those and can't get the air out of the top because of the shoulders behind the filler cap :(
P 8)
Quote from: Dunkel on August 25, 2014, 06:23:14 PM
Due to the upcoming water charges, I'm thinking of trying the Australian No Chill method. But what is a suitable type of container for this? Would this work? http://www.homebrewwest.ie/vinotainer-20-litre-92-p.asp
Could you not put clingfilm over the top of your pot, put the lid on it and just leave it outside?
Quote from: cruiscinlan on November 02, 2014, 10:37:49 PM
Quote from: Dunkel on August 25, 2014, 06:23:14 PM
Due to the upcoming water charges, I'm thinking of trying the Australian No Chill method. But what is a suitable type of container for this? Would this work? http://www.homebrewwest.ie/vinotainer-20-litre-92-p.asp
Could you not put clingfilm over the top of your pot, put the lid on it and just leave it outside?
I'd say that'd be fine but the beauty of the no chill cube is that you can hot pack it and ferment it whenever you're ready. I just read a comment on some aussie sight about a guy who went and fermented some cubed wort that he'd brewed 9 months previously.
Lads, even with water charges it wont be that bad.
I don't think that I'm using over 100l for chilling so it's just extra €0.24 on a brew day ... ok, €0.48 with charges for wastewater removed.
I collect and reuse my chilling water but I'd say my brewday would be an hour shorter if I could cut out chilling.
Is there any decernable difference in your beer using No Chill? Would you be able to do a lager this way?
What sort of tubing should be used to transfer the boiling wort?
Quote from: LordEoin on August 25, 2014, 10:31:01 PM
I got one like THIS (http://www.sanplatec.co.jp/image/product/san2639.jpg) in the co-op for about €6.
Seems to do the job.
Where's the co-op? Is that cube definitely food safe?
I believe the two things to consider for no chill are:
- Potential Infection
- Hops timings
- Off tastes (I believe DMS being the primary one)
Here's a link I found but there are loads out there
http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/06/06/australian-no-chill-brewing-technique-tested/
Unless you're doing massive amounts of brewing I doubt you're going to notice the water used for chilling especially if you use that water to clean with after...already preheated etc.
Also I'd be more worried about infection from an IC. My no chill is well sanitised and then has 90 degree plus wort pumped into it.
I've yet to experiment with a proper IPA and hopping
Quote from: armedcor on November 03, 2014, 05:07:43 PMAlso I'd be more worried about infection from an IC.
But the IC is usually added during the boil.
Quote from: Qs on November 03, 2014, 05:35:36 PM
Quote from: armedcor on November 03, 2014, 05:07:43 PMAlso I'd be more worried about infection from an IC.
But the IC is usually added during the boil.
sorry i should have clarified, I meant leaky wort chillers etc people claiming they've gotten infections from water dripping in though I don't really know what to make of it. Either way I really see no risk of an infection with NC if you follow procedure.
Quote from: armedcor on November 02, 2014, 11:10:24 PM
I'd say that'd be fine but the beauty of the no chill cube is that you can hot pack it and ferment it whenever you're ready. I just read a comment on some aussie sight about a guy who went and fermented some cubed wort that he'd brewed 9 months previously.
This brings with it a risk of botulism. If you are going to cube your wort, pitch after a couple of days. Nobody has gotten sick from no-chill beers, but dont be the first. Botulism is nasty shit.
Hmmm Botulism pale ale :D
I do no-chill brewing, and from what i observed over time is that, for big hop beer, you need to adjust the timing for hopping. If you don't do that you will get a more bitter taste due to the longer time spent by the hops in boiling wort. Some say that a 20 minute adjustment is enough for that.
I've tried some no-chill brewing and it's grand for beers with very little hop presence. Chilling takes an while for me so it's nice to do without it.
But for beers with alot of hop additions I can't see how that 20 minute adjustment works. It seems to me that the wort is lingering at isomerisation temperature for at least a few hours so any late addition hops are adding bitterness.
Exactly. All the early hop aditions should be added 20 minutes later that what the recipe state. I never tried, but some say that the very early additions, like <10 min or flame off, should be added as FWH. I am sceptic and don't want to try this just because hops aren't cheap in this country and don't want to screw a entire batch of beer and a lot of hops.
Some corrections:
The 20m adjustment refers to how you recalculate your IBU.
So if I was making an English bitter with the following hop regime:
28g x EKG @ 60
28g x EKG @ 15
28g x fuggles @ 5
But I choose not to chill it, that hop regime becomes:
28g x EKG @ 80
28g x EKG @ 35
28g x fuggles @ 25
Which is dramatically different in terms of IBU.
It is also impossible to do a proper <20m addition or a steep or a flame out.
Cube hopping can get you back some of those late additions in terms of aroma, but you really have to watch the alpha acids, and prolonged contact time with the hops can add other problems.
People who do hoppy beers with no chill, completely nerd out on their IBU calculators.
Excellent explanation
Now if I had written that before last nights brew day i would have calculated my IBU properly for the 'session bitter' I was making for my cousins birthday.
Anyone fancy a 40 IBU English bitter? Sigh. Can't even follow my own advise.
As an aside, if you are seeking that late hop flavour, and you are cube hopping, favour low alpha hops. Waiti rather than galaxy etc.
Pellets work better than leaf, but you will need some kind of hop filter when you empty your cube. I find a sheet of voile works really well.
If you run your numbers properly, you can use cube hopping almost exclusively. Add everything into the cube, and just enough at 60 to hit your IBU target. This way you can use those big alpha hops that work well as late additions
Unfortunately I can't remember where I read it, but I use a 10 minute adjustment for hopping with no-chill. E.g. hops going in at 60, 15 and 0 mins now becomes 60 and 5 mins. I then let the wort cool for 10 mins before transferring to the no-chill container. The hops are left in the boiler. For the 0 mins addition, I make hop tea and add to the fermenter.
I did a SMASH experiment with normal chilling and no-chill, blind tasted at a Capital brewday in Mottly Brew. The general feeling was very similar, with the favourite being the no-chill.
If you cube hop, you can trap a lot of aroma in the cube, that would otherwise boil off from the kettle, or evaporate in the steep. A little can go a long way too