Pilsner Malt 3.95kg
Flaked Barley 400 grams
Carapils Malt 135 grams
Northern Brewer 26 gr@60
Hallertauer Hersbrucker 12gr@10
Hallertauer Herrsbrucker 15gr@1
Whirlfloc @15
Seeing as it is cold as a witches nether regions at the moment i am going to attempt my first lager brew soon,i need to order some pilsner malt,flaked barley,and carapils,all of which i am familiar with.The correct dry yeast is another matter,ambient temp in the brew room atm is circa 10 celsius so ideal lager brewing temp and i have space in the chest freezer when its done to condition it.Which dry yeast is best to use for a pilsner or light american lager ? I will be pitching two packs either way.Liquid yeast just 'aint my thing for a number of reasons mainly the over inflated price,also i don't have my stir plate built yet. ;D
Only Lager yeast I ever used was Saflager W-34/70. Deffo on needing more than 1 pack.
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/pdfs/y16.pdf
What a coincidence! Was just in the shed and the thermometer there is at 11*c and was thinking of coming on here to get a decent beginner lager recipe.
What's the jazz with two packets of yeast though?
I use S-23.... 2 pks and ferment 10-12 c
Two pks because if the low temperature...I think, less stressful on the yeast so less chance of off flavours
For Lager you need more yeast than Ale to compensate for the cooler ferment temp.
That recipe above is from "The Bible" (inside joke lol) nice and simple eh ? They guys are correct,given that you will be fermenting colder that a witches boobies you need at least double the cell count to counteract increased yeast cell stress,i'm a doctor trust me ;D
All joking aside guys do ye reckon the recipe above looks solid enough ? Also for a lager do i mash high or low ? ;D
Quote from: Dube on November 30, 2014, 08:33:39 PM
Flaked barley is an usual choice for a lager and will probably make it a bit hazy. But the head should be good and thick and it should have plenty of mouthfeel.
W34/70 is about the most expensive dried yeast you can get. Currently around a fiver and its liquid counterpart (WLP830) doesn't cost much more. As for pitching rates, follow what it says on the pack as it seems to vary. Some require one pack, some require two. I've always used one (as per the pack) and it has worked out fine. Also follow the temperature instructions. Yeast goes through a growth phase first and it needs warmer temps for that. And the faster the yeast is working the less likely an infection will take hold.
Whose malt are you using? Mash temps don't matter a whole lot for over modified Irish and British malts, so 66oC will do. You could try a bit lower for a dryer beer but I don't think it matters much with these malts.
Ordering it later in the week,it will be Pilsner Malt from either HBC or Geterbrewed.The flaked barley was included in the recipe in the book so maybe leave it out and just go all pilsner malt ? I will have a look at that wlp830 but do i need to do a starter for that ? ;D
Quote from: DEMPSEY on November 30, 2014, 01:10:23 PM
Only Lager yeast I ever used was Saflager W-34/70. Deffo on needing more than 1 pack.
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/pdfs/y16.pdf
its a great yeast
Quote from: Dube on November 30, 2014, 08:53:46 PM
Is it Irish/British or German malt?
You can make a lager from a single malt.
The main benefit to liquid yeast is that you could slant it if you were set up for it. You can't slant first generation dry yeast. But as the price is nearly the same you have a much wider variety of liquid yeasts, slanting aside.
German Pilsner,Weymerans afaik. ;D Only getting enough for 2 brews,the group buy from MCI fell through. ;D
I used sf-23 lately for the HBC American lager all grain kit, 2 packs rehydrated, fermented at 12c...turned out perfect, lagered it for 8 weeks, still bottled out in shed in boxes so I'd imagine only getting better
Never used wheat in any of my lagers. My understanding is wheat does not age very well in brews and may be past its best after a decent lagering period. That's why most wheat beers are frank fresh and young. I may be com early wrong and just missed that part on wheat in my research.
As far as yeast goes if u were using dry I'd probably pitch at least 2 packets cooler then fermentation temp and let if warm up to the 10 or 12 you would be fermenting at.
Not sure if it's really possible to over pitch with a lager. I've pitched 3 dry 34/70 and fermented cool and it turned out great.
Dont forget the diecetyl rest ;)
Do you bother making a yeast starter with w30/74?
I've got 2 packets so would I be better
a) making a starter with one and pitching
b) pitching both packets dry
Pitch both....rehydrate then pitch
Quote from: Greg2013 on November 30, 2014, 01:04:36 PMI will be pitching two packs either way.Liquid yeast just 'aint my thing for a number of reasons mainly the over inflated price
Greg, I don't think there's any financial benefit to doing this.. Just checking on the HBC site - a vial of WhiteLabs is around €7. Two sachets of Saflager S-23 costs more - a whopping €3.95 each!
What is going on with the price of dried yeasts these days? Nottingham in particular is literally double the cost it was 2 or 3 years ago...?
Quote from: Bubbles on December 01, 2014, 04:49:44 PMWhat is going on with the price of dried yeasts these days? Nottingham in particular is literally double the cost it was 2 or 3 years ago...?
GV12 is supposed to be notty yeast and is pretty cheap. I've had no issues using it yet anyway, handy to have a few in the fridge.
http://www.homebrewwest.ie/gervin-gv12-tan-label-ale-yeast-11-grams-3237-p.asp
Quote from: irish_goat on December 01, 2014, 05:26:26 PM
Quote from: Bubbles on December 01, 2014, 04:49:44 PMWhat is going on with the price of dried yeasts these days? Nottingham in particular is literally double the cost it was 2 or 3 years ago...?
GV12 is supposed to be notty yeast and is pretty cheap. I've had no issues using it yet anyway, handy to have a few in the fridge.
http://www.homebrewwest.ie/gervin-gv12-tan-label-ale-yeast-11-grams-3237-p.asp
That's the one i have been using of late and i have had no issues with it,with the price of Notty and Us05 nearly double what they were this time last year i have been using the GV12 in place of both and it has worked fine for me.
Quote from: Bubbles on December 01, 2014, 04:49:44 PM
Quote from: Greg2013 on November 30, 2014, 01:04:36 PMI will be pitching two packs either way.Liquid yeast just 'aint my thing for a number of reasons mainly the over inflated price
Greg, I don't think there's any financial benefit to doing this.. Just checking on the HBC site - a vial of WhiteLabs is around €7. Two sachets of Saflager S-23 costs more - a whopping €3.95 each!
What is going on with the price of dried yeasts these days? Nottingham in particular is literally double the cost it was 2 or 3 years ago...?
I will be ordering the pilsner malt Wednesday so i will have a look at the liquid yeast again.To be honest i have never got the whole liquid yeast is better view of things,i have been brewing quite happily using s04 and us05 and notty and have never seen the need to change that.I don't enter competitions so in have no need to follow BJCP style guidelines,i also don't harvest my yeast, so for me S04 and US05 will brew any style of beer i ever need.However since this is my first foray into lager territory as i said i may have to re assess that view just for this brew.
When i get my stirplate setup built i may revisit the whole liquid yeast thing. ;D
Quote from: Dube on November 30, 2014, 08:33:39 PM
Flaked barley is an usual choice for a lager and will probably make it a bit hazy. But the head should be good and thick and it should have plenty of mouthfeel.
W34/70 is about the most expensive dried yeast you can get. Currently around a fiver and its liquid counterpart (WLP830) doesn't cost much more. As for pitching rates, follow what it says on the pack as it seems to vary. Some require one pack, some require two. I've always used one (as per the pack) and it has worked out fine. Also follow the temperature instructions. Yeast goes through a growth phase first and it needs warmer temps for that. And the faster the yeast is working the less likely an infection will take hold.
Whose malt are you using? Mash temps don't matter a whole lot for over modified Irish and British malts, so 66oC will do. You could try a bit lower for a dryer beer but I don't think it matters much with these malts.
Shane is this the one you meant ?
http://www.homebrewwest.ie/wlp838-southern-german-lager-yeast-3395-p.asp
If no would it be a good alternative to wlp830 ? ;D
Quote from: Dube on December 01, 2014, 07:18:56 PM
830 is the liquid version of 34/70 but 838 is grand too.
Ok cool,HBC and HBW both seem to be out of WLP830 at the moment so i guess WLP838 it is then. ;D
Quote from: Bubbles on December 01, 2014, 04:49:44 PM
Quote from: Greg2013 on November 30, 2014, 01:04:36 PMI will be pitching two packs either way.Liquid yeast just 'aint my thing for a number of reasons mainly the over inflated price
Greg, I don't think there's any financial benefit to doing this.. Just checking on the HBC site - a vial of WhiteLabs is around €7. Two sachets of Saflager S-23 costs more - a whopping €3.95 each!
What is going on with the price of dried yeasts these days? Nottingham in particular is literally double the cost it was 2 or 3 years ago...?
Dry yeast has a greater cell count than liquid yeast so in a scenario where you're pitching 2 sachets of dry yeast you'd have to pitch at least 2 containers of liquid.
The advantage of liquid yeast is that more varieties are available
Anytime I get liquid yeast I more look at the cost over a few brews as I harvest. Also handy to plan a few brews of increasing gravity, as you can keep reusing the yeast cake so your not underpitching
Quote from: irish_goat on December 01, 2014, 05:26:26 PM
GV12 is supposed to be notty yeast and is pretty cheap. I've had no issues using it yet anyway, handy to have a few in the fridge.
http://www.homebrewwest.ie/gervin-gv12-tan-label-ale-yeast-11-grams-3237-p.asp
Yep, just not sterile packed
Quote from: molc on December 02, 2014, 08:43:05 AM
Anytime I get liquid yeast I more look at the cost over a few brews as I harvest. Also handy to plan a few brews of increasing gravity, as you can keep reusing the yeast cake so your not underpitching
I guess even without a stirplate the liquid yeast is looking like my best option for a lager/pilsner brew ? Can i just store the yeast slurry in some sterile jars in the fridge afterwards ? ;D
Quote from: oblivious on December 02, 2014, 09:40:15 AM
Quote from: irish_goat on December 01, 2014, 05:26:26 PM
GV12 is supposed to be notty yeast and is pretty cheap. I've had no issues using it yet anyway, handy to have a few in the fridge.
http://www.homebrewwest.ie/gervin-gv12-tan-label-ale-yeast-11-grams-3237-p.asp
Yep, just not sterile packed
Not sterile packed ? Wondering what you mean by that. ;D
Quote from: Greg2013 on December 02, 2014, 01:41:05 PM
Quote from: molc on December 02, 2014, 08:43:05 AM
Anytime I get liquid yeast I more look at the cost over a few brews as I harvest. Also handy to plan a few brews of increasing gravity, as you can keep reusing the yeast cake so your not underpitching
I guess even without a stirplate the liquid yeast is looking like my best option for a lager/pilsner brew ? Can i just store the yeast slurry in some sterile jars in the fridge afterwards ? ;D
Yup, that's what I do. Make the beer, then wash the yeast and store it in a IKEA glass jar or two. I also try to fill the original vial with the yeast, so I can make another batch from scratch easily when I'm stuck.
However, next batch, I plan to do it a little differently. I'm going to first grow up the vial into a starter and then refill the vial with some of the starter. This means I won't have to do any washing and will always have a fresh vial of the yeast to use. Also, I'm going to try pitching 1 cup of the slurry from the previous brew into the next to take all effort out of growing my starters.