Has anyone got any experience fixing these. The wires below the element melted. I'm not sure if the element is the problem though as I have read that it is not always the element is the fault. Any suggestions would be great. The model number is J521
Hi, when you say wires below the element, are you saying that wires too close to the element got scorched. Do you just need to replace some wiring and cable tie them away from the element or are you describing a different problem? Excessive current burning wiring out?
It's not wiring to close to the element so might be excisive current
Forgot to say both blue and brown wires are burning out
Can you post a photo? Loose connections can generate heat eg spade crimp connections.
Have you altered the original wiring in any way?
Alternatively you can buy heat resisting flex but you still need heat resisting sleeves over the inner cores
No I haven't altered the wiring. I will post a picture later today
Here's some pictures to help out
Still hard to seewhats happened!
Where are you located?
Do you have a mate with a multi-meter?
You need a meter to see if the element is still Ok. If it is then you can re-purpose the boiler. If element dead then hello WEE recycling centre!
Yes its hard to see what happened, The blue wire joining the black plastic in the center melted where it meets and same with the brown , there is also a wire missing, blue one from the element. Based in Wexford
Levingstons down by the old cinema might be able to help you.
@googoomuck thanks for that, I should have been more specific , I just outside Bunclody Wexford
I thinks there is an equivalent place near clearstream in enniscorthy?! Can't remember the name though. If you don't get sorted a mate of mine is a electrician, I can ask him to take a look if ya like. I'll be passing through bunclody on a regular basis from the 12th so can collect and drop off.
Is heatshrink normal under a Burco?
Are yellow and green supposed to be connected?
@Hassettbrew, that's a different model from mine but it looks like your problem is with the thermal cutout mounted on the underside of the element. That's where my boildry/thermal cutout is mounted. Ive removed mine anyway. You should be able to bypass/replace it.
As suggested above a multimeter will tell you if the element is still good. Use resistance =(Voltage^2)/P(wattage), so a 2.2kw element should measure about 22ohms based on 220V supply. Make sure to disconnect 1 end of the element completely from the circuit before measuring.
@richc thanks for the reply, how did you bypass the black plastic thermal cutout, do you have a picture
C
Quote from: hassettbrew on January 01, 2015, 09:56:47 AM
@richc thanks for the reply, how did you bypass the black plastic thermal cutout, do you have a picture
C
Mine just had two terminal spade connectors on it. I simply joined them together. What's wired into yours? It looks to have more than 2 wires, is it 4?
From the photo it looks like the last inch of the blue cable is burnt, that's an indication of a loose connection.
So i bypassed the black thermal cutout in the center and it seems to be working now .
Just wondering what will happen bypassing the thermal cutofff ? Is it safe to run ?
No.....its there to prevent a fire or a serious injury...or smoke inhalation asphyxia...best hav it replaced with a new thermal safety. Bout 2 euros on ebay and theres loads of spare parts suppliers online. I hav some so bring ur boilervif u here tmora ill sort it try sort it. The safety cutout is a switch prob set at 113 c that switches when boils dry. If u hav work that boils dry wen u fall asleep on the sofa there will b a hell of a lot of toxic smoke to deal with.... So homebrewers bewsre of bypassing ur boiler cutout switches
So to conclude, yes indeed loose wiring was the problem. Replaced the thermal and new wiring. All good now thanks for your help Brenmurph :)