I'm considering installing one or 2 elements into a this SS pot (http://www.mybeerandwine.ie/brew-kettles/190-economy-30-litre-mash-tun.html).
I know this is something that people do but I'm not sure of the dangers of it and won't be rushing into it.
I've found something like this 3Kw element (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GN6ZD6Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A50DZI580G3JX) but I don't know what you'd use as a power socket on the back of the pot.
What's the easiest route that someone has taken doing something like this? Dismantling a kettle? What safety concerns are there? Is there any risk of the pot being live? Does it need to be earthed?
I followed Gary's post on here and used the cellar dwellers video on YouTube. All ok so far. I used two Argos kettles.
How to install cheap Kettle Elements for HLT or Boil Pot Home Brewing: https://youtu.be/zLAcxHTvu4U on my phone and can't find Gary's post but here is the video I used.
Cheers.
I found this on Beoir -> http://www.beoir.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=136:pimp-my-kettle&catid=14:equipment&Itemid=45
Yeah meant to say that when the elements need replacing or I make a hlt, I'll make sure I DON'T go down the cellar dwellers route and go with the above link. As in leave the elements intact and be able to plug them in normally rather than fannying around with connectors and crimping pliers.
So, slightly off topic (apologies) but if you wire two kettle elements in series, would this reduce the chance of scorching? I assume you'd still get the same amount of energy into the water, but it would just be split over a larger area of element (so less likely to scorch?)
If you connect two 3kw heaters in series you will only get the equivalent of a 1.5kw heater
Rough maths 3000w / 230v = 13amps
230v / 13A = 17.7 ohms resistance
Two elements in series 17.7 + 17.7 = 35.4 ohms
230v / 35.4 = 6.5 amps
230v X 6.5A ~ 1.5kW
Depending upon the volume this may not give you enough power for a rolling boil in a kettle or take a long time to heat the HLT
I have to put my hands up, I answered a question on this thread without watching the video. This video shows the absolute wrong way to adapt/Gunter a kettle element to suit a keggle. The crimper tool used is only for automotive connections ie 12/24 volt. When crimping these connections for mains flexible cables a ratchet crimper must be used
Eg http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-20835-Ratchet-Crimping-Tool/dp/B001KOTNLC
Secondly a loose connection will cause heat to build up and this increases over time resulting in a fire hazard. The idea of converting a crimp connection into a push on connector is asking for trouble. Technically speaking you would need to be able to measure the surface contact area between the pins on the kettle and the adapted crimp connection to have any idea of the load rating it could carry. The fact that these crimp connectors are meant to be used on flexible cables rather than solid pins (as in this case) and ultimately only employing a push on fit is dangerous.
There is always a risk of boil overs in boil kettles and really there should be some effort made to make the joint at the kettle element splash proof at least. It is a much better idea to buy a kettle element rather than stripping a cheap kettle, and then using something like a cable gland shroud like this
http://www.meteorelectrical.com/clearance-store_cable-accessories_cable-glands_cable-shroud-black-20mm-small.html
To slide over the whole kettle connection
Shouldn't ease of replacement be of concern. Most domestic kettles seem to have integral kettle base elements these days. I recently setup a keg to use a standard two and a quarter inch bsp immersion element. I got a suitable ss flange on ebay and got it tig welded to the keg.
I can't say is be happy stripping any kettle for the element, the HBS have elements, the problem seems to be sealing these to the keggles, as you can strip the threads on the Bakelite nut. I was going to go the same route as you but opted in the end for the low watt density elements from the states.
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,5893.msg74617.html#msg74617
I bought two backer style elements from eBay and used KM8 locking nuts on my Keggle. Works a treat.