Anybody any opinions or comments about the "grainfather"?
I spotted it on Get'er Brewed earlier and it has more than caught my attention. It's expensive but if it's as good as it says it is I would defo look into buying one.
Grainfather.co.uk (http://Grainfather.co.uk)
Pic
I have to say, I'm quite interested too. It's a mash tun, combined with a kettle with a built in heat exchanger. Or am I missing something?
It seems a tad underpowered. I've seen a few videos and it takes quite a bit to get up to mash temp and boiling.
Quote from: Andrew on March 18, 2015, 03:35:16 PM
I have to say, I'm quite interested too. It's a mash tun, combined with a kettle with a built in heat exchanger. Or am I missing something?
It looks to basically have everything in the one box.
Will look into it more tonight on the laptop, there's lots of videos and reviews on YouTube.
It's basically a cheaper braumeister?
Quote from: mrmeindl on March 18, 2015, 04:05:35 PM
If the pump &/ element fail do you then have to buy a proprietary replacement from grainfather? Can you replace said components yourself?
That's something I will ask them.
http://nationalhomebrew.com.au/brewers-blog/grainfather-review (http://nationalhomebrew.com.au/brewers-blog/grainfather-review)
This is a pretty complete review which pretty much has me sold, worth a read.
What about the hops after boiling. Do you use a hop bag with this. :-\
In a video I saw you get a strainer discdisc with to sit the hops onon and stop them falling to bottom while boiling?
The fact you need another vessel to heat sparge water puts me off a little but looks great! I guess you can't have everything for that price!
It only has a 2000w kettle element, I say you'd be waiting ages to reach temperatures. I love the look of the brewbot, shame its so expensive.
Cheers for the replys so far Lads.
I emailed grainfather directly earlier re: repairs and they said its covered under a 12 month guarantee. Of course I mailed them straight back asking what happens outside of the 12 month guarantee period - Is there an Irish Repair Service? Can parts be bought directly from them?
I expect a quick reply as they got back to me quick enough after the first mail.
So, I need to think about the 2kw element and the amount of power it'll supply.
And hops post boil too. Now for some more research. . . .
whos this he sounds irish and has one
https://www.youtube.com/user/okjhayes
Quote from: Covey on March 18, 2015, 08:46:09 PM
whos this he sounds irish and has one
https://www.youtube.com/user/okjhayes
Videos posted 5 months ago, so he got his recently enough. Thats a cork accent if I'm not mistaken?
Grainfather have promptly replied to my email again. They will be supplying get'erbrewed with spares and they will have a list of them available shortly.
They also assured me they have "a team ready to answer any questions / give technical advice when needed" - very reassuring and I'm delighted with their prompt replies to my questions. So far so good.
I have a 20ltr Burco at my disposal so that answers my sparge water issue.
Hops after boil issue? The pump filter prevents hops entering the counter flow chiller.
I see they have a cleaner http://www.grainfather.co.uk/#!online-store/c8k/!/Grainfather-High-Performance-Cleaner-500g/p/47629811/category=12389142 (http://www.grainfather.co.uk/#!online-store/c8k/!/Grainfather-High-Performance-Cleaner-500g/p/47629811/category=12389142) too. I presume normal w5 or VWP wouldnt be suitable as its a SS vessel? Anybody any ideas for a cheaper, more easily accesible cleaner?
The thing is, could someone build something like that for a good deal cheaper. It's a burco with an insert and an attached pump with an arm back to the top. The braumeister is very well engineered whereas this just looks - hacky
How much is the braumeister gonna set you back?
To me this is pretty much an all in one setup, apart from my small burco for sparge water.
Space is an issue with me too, this suits my needs. The idea of buying a readymade unit appeals also, the thoughts of building boilers etc again defo does not.
I think I'm pretty much convinced about it, they were hitting some great numbers if you read the review on the the Aussie Homebrew page that I linked earlier
I think it looks like quite well engineered considering it's price range. If you were to go out and buy all the constituent parts that it includes (food grade pump, cf chiller, 30 litre pot, element, stc200, crab cooker...) you're looking at about €500 and you'd have spend hours sourcing them all, more hours fitting it. Then you're left with this frankenstein collection of objects that takes up lots of space. With this you're getting something where all the parts have been engineered to fit and work together.
Saying that it looks underpowered and could do with some program-ability.
I would feel I was somehow cheating though. How long long before grain and hops come in Nespresso type capsules?
Quote from: Covey on March 18, 2015, 08:46:09 PM
whos this he sounds irish and has one
https://www.youtube.com/user/okjhayes
These videos where he's having to wrap it in a quilt to reach temperatures and draining the first runnings to a fermenter make me less enthused. You're as well off with your cheap gear if it's not up to what it's designed for.
The absolute apex of compact all in one solutions appear to be the brew in a conical units.
Quote from: Simon \_/ on March 19, 2015, 11:40:24 AM
I think it looks like quite well engineered considering it's price range. If you were to go out and buy all the constituent parts that it includes (food grade pump, cf chiller, 30 litre pot, element, stc200, crab cooker...) you're looking at about €500 and you'd have spend hours sourcing them all, more hours fitting it. Then you're left with this frankenstein collection of objects that takes up lots of space. With this you're getting something where all the parts have been engineered to fit and work together.
Saying that it looks underpowered and could do with some program-ability.
I agree with you wholeheartedly - what free time I have I want spend brewing, not building something that may or may not work properly.
There seems to be an option for changing the controller in the pipeline. It suits me as is now anyway.
Not forgetting the distillation add-on if that tickles your fancy...
35 minutes in the video to get 20 litres of water to 45 degrees? He wasn't even close to mash temp. That is a bit of a deal breaker for me
Yeah I totally agree about wanting an all in one unit that's low hassle and just works out of the box. I think this one is just too clunky and low powered/featured for me to justify the spend. At the very least, if it's going to be underpowered, it needs to be programmable so you can set it to mash while you're away, including a mashout to lock in the grain. That said, at least it can take 10kg of grain, unlike a braumeister
What I do not like about the designs is the narrow layout. A modern mash tun is wider so as to allow you to have a larger floor area to drain from and despite hop bags and filters the best way to deal with hops is to whirlpool and allow the spent hops form up a cone in the middle and finally allow you to drain from the side. :(
Quote from: johnrm on March 19, 2015, 05:17:48 PM
Not forgetting the distillation add-on if that tickles your fancy...
Of course for distilling essential oils and water
The Braumeister doesnt seem to handle as much grain as the Grainfather does. 9kg v 6kg
BM also has the same 2kw heating element.
This choice is getting easier. :)
You can get a bigger grain bill into the braumeister than you think.
Once the starch is rinsed from the initial grist, you can pause the program, then add more.
The Braumeister has an optional lagging jacket. Sugest the GF also would benefit.
It looks an interesting system with some design improvements over the BM. Also its a fairly modular system so you could probably swap out the STC controller for a more flexible Brewduino type controller if you wanted to. Also the pipe from the pump needs a quick disconnect as mentioned.
Also a rotary sparge arm.
There also seems to be some confusion about the boil/mash switch on the controller and when the STC is used for control and on one video I thought I saw another switch on the boiler itself (like on a burco - which I assume this is) being used to switch elements.
Hmm Am I getting interested in this?
Err Yes!!
I'll be placing my order with geterbrewed next week.
Feel free to come have a look Will when I get it.
There's a couple of BM users here - a side by side would be interesting.
That'd be a great idea, a brew off between them. Same recipe, ingredients etc.
it's a pity I won't have it in time to brew for the GCB competition.
How do I convince my wife this is more important than a new bathroom?
Quote from: Simon \_/ on March 21, 2015, 10:58:30 AM
How do I convince my wife this is more important than a new bathroom?
Your happiness is her happiness?
Quote from: Simon \_/ on March 21, 2015, 10:58:30 AM
How do I convince my wife this is more important than a new bathroom?
Because:
Its smaller
Its cheaper
It makes beer
It uses less water
So there's the first 4 ;)
I see HBC have Grainfathers for sale on their site now too ...
Bought and paid for! Hoping the get my hands on it in April
It would make an ideal candidate for the new reviews on the homepage.
Mine is ordered!
Review will be forthcomming
As will a hackers guide!
PS: For anyone remotely interested in enginering and hacking stuff about I would highly recommend:
http://madmodder.net/index.php (http://madmodder.net/index.php)
You will find me there as Will_D !!
Great stuff Will!
Me too.
Quote from: Simon \_/ on March 21, 2015, 10:58:30 AM
How do I convince my wife this is more important than a new bathroom?
I take it the new bathroom aint happening then? ;)
The price has gone up on Get'erbrewed for them to €830. Homebrewcompany is €850.
Quote from: fishjam45 on March 29, 2015, 10:37:32 PM
I take it the new bathroom aint happening then? ;)
I'll bootleg whiskey with the pot still attachment to pay for the bathroom :)
Fishjam, Any idea when geterbrewed are expecting delivery. I sent them an email but not heard back!
Also have you seen the instructions:
http://www.nationalhomebrew.com.au/uploads/attachments/National_Home_Brew_ID-57768_1409169738.pdf (http://www.nationalhomebrew.com.au/uploads/attachments/National_Home_Brew_ID-57768_1409169738.pdf)
I know the STC-1000+ project that I got involved with was working on a step mash software so I will have to dig out the Arduino again!
Pm them and they usually get back quick enough.
I was told they are expecting delivered in April.
I'll be following your mods closely too
Oh yeah, I've read and re-read the instructions over and over. There's plenty of good videos on YouTube too.
Here's a good one too
Will, what do you think about cleaning the GF?
Saw this (http://www.reddit.com/r/IAmA/comments/2x0sxs/i_am_imker_swanepoel_industrial_designer_for_the/covw3nh) where the designer said PBV would be fine. Do you think Oxy would be an alterative?
I think the GF comes with a pack of cleaner. This 'should' state whats in it. When I get hold of it I will see what's what.
But as he says PBV will work Ok
BTW: What IS PBV ??
Quote from: Will_D on March 31, 2015, 09:16:23 PM
BTW: What IS PBV ??
This might be a typo. It's probably PBW (https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/pbw-1lb-450g-p-1422.html).
Facebook group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/1557967401104380/) with existing users. Private group so you need to request to be added. Really interesting to see manufacturer improvements reaching users and user mods
One guy is running a modded STC1000 but apparently there is a different pid (https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000pid) implementation from the same developer (Matts). I think the difference from the usual STC1000+implementation being that it beeps at you for the strike water / hop addition steps :)
The STC1000 slots in easily in place of the STC200
(http://i62.tinypic.com/6tp7hj.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2mcvi51.jpg)
There have been alot of recent manufacturer modifications on the re-circulation arm
The addition of the red ball valve on the recirc pipe
improved thread on the twist on fitting above the red ball valve
2nd support bracket holding the arm to the body
hose clamps where there were zip ties before where it meets the pump
These upgraded GFs are the ones being delivered in UK and Europe now
Great!
Looking forward to getting it now
I shouldn't of looked at this thread, the argument of want vs. need has arisen!
Here's the modded stc1000 firmware especially for single vessel brewing
https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p-ovbsc/blob/work/README.md
So with this you can wake up just in time to mash in and then forget about it until you get prompted for the hop additions.
Pretty cool. I would be interested in trying it into a brewpi spark as well, for a shiny touchscreen interface. The big thing is what is the control loop like on the grainfather? Is it just a simple breaker circuit for the element that's wired into the stc? Also how is the pump controlled?
Pump just controlled by an on/off switch I think
The link above says
QuoteThe unpopulated terminal on the STC can be used as pump control. The firmware will put this output in high impedance to turn pump on and pull it low to turn pump off.
Alternatively I think it makes little difference if it's just a manual step. You turn on the pump when you mash in and turn it off when you mash out. You need be present for those steps anyhow so there isn't much benefit to automating it
Quote from: Simon \_/ on April 13, 2015, 10:53:04 AM
Here's the modded stc1000 firmware especially for single vessel brewing
https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p-ovbsc/blob/work/README.md
So with this you can wake up just in time to mash in and then forget about it until you get prompted for the hop additions.
Really cool.
I knew matstaff was working on this but did not know it was delivered.
Come the next "wet day" I am going to flash up the OVBSC Version and see "how she's cutting"
Might even do up a user manual for Matts as a thank you!
That puts my Arduino "stepper motor to motorise my new mill's x-axis" project on hold a bit longer ;)
Note to self: The dinning table is supposed to be for eating off! It's NOT your Arduino H/w / S/w playground!
Quote from: Will_D on April 13, 2015, 07:46:56 PM
Might even do up a user manual for Matts as a thank you!
Or an instructional video - WillTube
I was wondering too, can the grainfather do 30l brews then?
Quote from: beanstalk on April 17, 2015, 10:52:08 AM
I was wondering too, can the grainfather do 30l brews then?
The capacity is labelled as 30L although it might be a bit more. I've seen the manufacturers recommending to sparging up to 28L pre boil with ~3L/ hour evaporation the most you could probably stretch it to is 25L. With trub loss and dead space it's probably closer to 23L.
I suppose you could dilute it during the boil to end up with more if you really wanted to.
Tip for both BM and GF users for higher ABV Beers...
If you can only physically fit so much malt into your malt pipe.
Start your mash - run it until such time as the Flour is rinsed from your Malt and is now in solution.
Pump off - add more milled malt - pump on.
Nice one, cheers!
So it basically allows you to add a little extra malt?
Pretty much.
I spotted this over on Braumeisters.net there's lots of other stuff there that would be applicable to GF too.
Sorry John, theres a few things I don't understand here.
Quote:
If you can only physically fit so much malt into your malt pipe. OK so the pipe is full
Start your mash - run it until such time as the Flour (what is Flour?) is rinsed from your Malt and is now in solution.
Pump off - add more milled malt (Err where? the pipe is full of spent malt! New malt needs another mashing) - pump on.
Hmmmm .... ;)
With the Speidel, its probably easier but will still extend the brew day. Essentially you mash as per normal, remove the grain, refill the malt pipe and repeat but starting with wort instead of water. You can get very high ABV beers this way. Because its all programmed, its rather easy. You just have to be there when it tells you to do stuff.
So, lets say a normal beer takes 5 hours to get into a fermenter. A high ABV beer will take about an extra hour.
Its done as follows:
- program the Speidel to do a mash,
- when it asks you to remove the malt pipe then remove it, refill it and reset the program,
- carry on as per normal.
I've made many Speidel beers, but haven't done this yet. Mostly because we are developing recipes for micros, and high ABV beers are a problem with excise etc. so there is little demand for them. The extra time required is only the time for the mash schedule. With Speidels, this can tend to be more complex than basic infusion mashing (its a feature). But you could just set a simple 60 min mash schedule, and then you only lose an hour. At most, even with complex step mashing, its only another 20 minutes.
The Grainfather should be able to work this way too.
As a hombrewer, I am tempted to add 20% hours to brewday to get close to double abv. But only if the end product is still a great beer.
Yes, simples. Use less water! These systems usually do close to full volume at up to 7.5% ABV without extra grain additions anyway.
Still, the attraction of big beer AND big volume is that, if you can double output, then its one brewday instead of two. Or its one brewday plus a "free" brewday to try out something new.
An analogy is winemaking, I've never made a 6 bottle kit because it takes almost the same time and effort as making a 30 bottle kit. Actually, wine making is easier because you can concurrently make a selection of several 6 bottle kits in one brew day! In theory.
By flour I mean barley flour/sugars.
I have not done this myself but...
https://forum.braumeisters.net/viewtopic.php?p=8075#p8075
Very interesting link thanks
A quick Q,
I'm putting together the money for a Grainfather and was just wondering...those of you with a Grainfather, or have one on preorder, do you have a fermentation chamber?
At the minute I don't, and the thought occurred, am I putting the horse before the cart so to speak? Should I have a ferm chamber before I fork out €830 on the Grainfather? ( It's not really going to stop me as I have my heart set on one :) ) but I just wanted to know what others think?
Cheers
A ferm chamber is not necessary but will give you way better control.
I was thinking of ordering a grainfather but wouldn't worry overly much about a fermentation chamber personally unless I'm lagering. All my AG ales and stouts I've been really happy with in just an fv and a heater.
Quote from: Acott on April 19, 2015, 10:29:28 PM
A quick Q,
I'm putting together the money for a Grainfather and was just wondering...those of you with a Grainfather, or have one on preorder, do you have a fermentation chamber?
At the minute I don't, and the thought occurred, am I putting the horse before the cart so to speak? Should I have a ferm chamber before I fork out €830 on the Grainfather? ( It's not really going to stop me as I have my heart set on one :) ) but I just wanted to know what others think?
Cheers
Great beers can be made with any equipment, if you focus on proper yeast pitching rates and temperature control .I'd go as far as to say forget spending on anything else until you can maintain a consistent fermentation temperature. Remember, as many greater minds than me have said, you don't make beer, yeast does.
I might have to cobble something together!
"Fermchamber" uwwhherrr what a posh name for an auld fridge with a STC-1000. O0
Total cost of FCs range from €10 for the STC with free fridge all the way up to a cheap larder fridge plus STC!
An auld fridge is also on the list, just need to find some space!!!
https://twitter.com/Geterbrewed/status/590565240200417281
@Geterbrewed
Hey @BrownBoxBrew we have 1 or 2 left from our next shipment, should be in anyday, http://www.geterbrewed.ie/the-grainfather-the-grainfather-the-grain-father-all-in-1-brewing-system/ ... #homebrew
Quote from: Acott on April 19, 2015, 10:29:28 PM
Should I have a ferm chamber before I fork out €830 on the Grainfather?
Cheers
They're still available at the E749 price. PM sent.
Order marked complete! Hopefully Grainfathering by tomorrow.
Quote from: Simon \_/ on May 11, 2015, 12:56:32 PM
Order marked complete! Hopefully Grainfathering by tomorrow.
Nice! I'm paying the balance on mine today, hope to have it Wednesday! Do you have a planned first brew?
Quote from: Acott on May 11, 2015, 01:06:46 PM
Quote from: Simon \_/ on May 11, 2015, 12:56:32 PM
Order marked complete! Hopefully Grainfathering by tomorrow.
Nice! I'm paying the balance on mine today, hope to have it Wednesday! Do you have a planned first brew?
I haven't brewed since I ordered this so alot of pent up brewing to do. I have to do my batch for the NCB barrel and I really want to do an RIS. There's a kit included with crushed grains. Think it's a Saison Kit I requested so might as well do that first.
Quote from: Simon \_/ on May 11, 2015, 01:11:56 PM
Quote from: Acott on May 11, 2015, 01:06:46 PM
Quote from: Simon \_/ on May 11, 2015, 12:56:32 PM
Order marked complete! Hopefully Grainfathering by tomorrow.
Nice! I'm paying the balance on mine today, hope to have it Wednesday! Do you have a planned first brew?
I haven't brewed since I ordered this so alot of pent up brewing to do. I have to do my batch for the NCB barrel and I really want to do an RIS. There's a kit included with crushed grains. Think it's a Saison Kit I requested so might as well do that first.
I'm the same, haven't brewed in almost 2 months looking forward to Saturday. I'm hoping to give the Kraken American Amber a whirl
I haven't brewed in months either. My order still isn't marked co eye yet tho... ???
It'll all be fine once I hear the whirr of the circulation pump tho... :)
Oooohhh! A big parcel has arrived to my home place, won't know what it is until tomorrow... :'( ;D
Received mine earlier today, assembled it in no time at all!
Will put it through its paces tomorrow night.
Nice and shiny ... very shiny!
Nice one, mine should arrive today (fingers crossed) :)
My pot isn't big enough for heating a large amount of sparge water as I only did 1 gallon batches, so I went ahead and purchased a 20 ltr Catering Urn online for €85 delivered.
This should hopefully free up even more time and avoid me standing at the hob with a thermometer in hand. It also has a keep warm feature, so once you hit temp it will hold it, so you're ready to sparge once your mash is done.
It's not essential, but should make brew day a little quicker/easier!
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Z6zqyYrZL._SY300_.jpg)
Deadly. Can you put up a link for that?
I've so much different grain in the house now I don't know what I'll brew first on it at the weekend! Woe is me... ;D
A very large box has just been delivered. 26kgs in fact.
First job tidy up the place so I can unpack it!
Quote from: beanstalk on May 13, 2015, 09:32:11 AM
Deadly. Can you put up a link for that?
I've so much different grain in the house now I don't know what I'll brew first on it at the weekend! Woe is me... ;D
A great problem to have! ;D
I got it on Ebay, it's on Amazon, but a little more expensive. These guys have a sale on at the minute so theres £13 off the original price, which is a bout €20 off
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Kenley-Commercial-Catering-Hot-Water-Tea-Coffee-Urn-Boiler-Stainless-Steel-304-/171228785169?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item27de07ea11
Mine's arrived...
That's pretty cool once you can set the temp and walk away
Quote from: Acott on May 13, 2015, 10:21:54 AM
....These guys have a sale on at the minute so theres £13 off the original price...
FFS another thing I don't need but will probably buy anyway ;) This hobby is a money pit
Quote from: Simon \_/ on May 13, 2015, 11:14:07 AM
Quote from: Acott on May 13, 2015, 10:21:54 AM
....These guys have a sale on at the minute so theres £13 off the original price...
FFS another thing I don't need but will probably buy anyway ;) This hobby is a money pit
I need a holiday from the forum. Everytime I log on, I see something I want to buy ;)
Ok, couldn't resist a quick unpack and play!
First observations:
Very well packed
Very good clear instructions
Very well made - good quality stuff used.
First point of assembley to note is fitting the perforated plate to the botom of the Malt pipe:
Page 5
Step #4:
The silicon ring seal wants to unroll itself from the perf plate(18) as you push it down. Wet it with water, hold it at 90 degrees to the bore and genfly slide down to just off the bottom then gently rotate it to sit on the bottom. Gently help it to bed down.
Step #5:
To fit the overflow bottom pipe (23) stand the malt pipe on a work surface, slide it towards you so tou can pop in the tube and do up the nut. Be gentle because as in step 4 above the silicon tube wants to unroll.
Probably the same may happen at page 9 step #7 but by then th pipe will be well wet and there will be grain about so probably will be well lubricated
Thats all for now
What do you make of the 'mini bar drink lid' that's meant to sit on top of the overflow pipe during mashing. I read about it previously and thought it was something that resembled a mini bar drink lid. But it really is exactly that.
It's the only blight I can see on what looks like a really well engineered machine
Next point:
Filled with 17 L of water and set the STC to 75C (a mash-in temp)
On switching on the pump it didn't pump! A bit of sucking and blowing sorted it out! Its now pumping fine. This is probably coz its new and not even had the (recommended) first cleaning cycle. But when you first run the pump make sure its not running dry.
I love the tap fittings! But I did think, upon assembly, that the silicone connection for inserting the pump pipe and sealed with a hose clip was strange. I wasn't sure how far to push the pipe down, and when I pushed on it to tighten the screw the connection now sits kinda weird.
Other than that, a beautiful machine. So shiny and looks pretty durable too! :)
Quote from: Will_D on May 13, 2015, 04:44:17 PM
A bit of sucking and blowing sorted it out!
???
Quote from: beanstalk on May 14, 2015, 08:03:54 AM
I love the tap fittings! But I did think, upon assembly, that the silicone connection for inserting the pump pipe and sealed with a hose clip was strange. I wasn't sure how far to push the pipe down, and when I pushed on it to tighten the screw the connection now sits kinda weird.
It needs to go all the way down so that the two pieces that the screw(26) fixes together are in fact together. Now when I first assembled the pipe the valve handle was facing away from me - the valve was slack on the pipe and just needed a half tun or so to be nearer the control box (I call this facing me).
On a more worrying note there is no mention of how to clean the pump if its ever needed!
Will - hopefully we won't have too.
I had a play with it last night, ran the cleaner then Starsan through it.
Very happy with it so far and looking forward to getting my first brew on.
Found it a fiddly when cleaning - the removing and reattaching of the chiller then the arm to run the cleaner then Starsan through was the only small issue I found,it's more my laziness than anything else though :)
Got mine today. A friend asked me earlier about "the delivery" I said yeah great, can't wait to get brewing. Then I realised he was talking about my son who was born on Tuesday.
So I turned it on for the first time last night and did a cleaning run with it.
I was being quite careful not to let the pump run dry so as soon as it started sucking air I turned it off. Problems with this is that quite alot of wort is going to be left in the counter chiller. Also the Grainfather has quite alot of deadspace. Is shutting off the pump the second it appear to be sucking air the right thing to do? Do I just have to live with the amount of wort lost to the deadspace and CF chiller?
Also when I disconnect the recirculation arm or CFC a fair bit of liquid dribbles out. That's going to be messy when it's sticky wort. Is this the same for everyone?
Did you take a measurement of what's left in dead space?
Watch the videos, he shows how the wort will syphon back into the boiler.
Ah true. Had seen that but forgotten about it. It's explained here (https://youtu.be/sc_RigwCPLA?t=1647)
Make sure that the plastic pipe is in free air, then when you switch off the pump the liquid should syphon back.
As the pump rotor is wet from the wort and is probably sucking a little liquid as well as a lot of air its not really running dry. Also tilting the GF will allow more liquid to be pumped out.
This aspect of the hop filter (relatively small area but quite high off the bottom) is not the best part of the design. On the forum there are a number of reports of the filter clogging from hop leaves. A T shaped 1/2 bazooka type ss woven tube coiled round the bottom would be a lot better. Most people on the web use Hop socks or SS hop balls. (Have already ordered 2 from GBrewed)
When it comes to cleaning the chiller they have got it wrong. They say to just let the cleaner syphon out of the tube. Well imho they have the coil upside down! Yes its correct for chiller but not for back syphoning the liquid from the coils. All those gurgles means there's a lot of CF left in the coils. Not a good idea.
So my solution is:
1. Coil upside down so the inlet connected to the pump is at the bottom - this allows natural drainage - not sucking.
2. Recirc. as suggested.
3. At end of cycle have 5 litres of clean water ready.
4. Now the juggling act:
Switch off the pump, and as soon as the liquid in the outflow pipe starts to sysphon back, allow a 6" air bubble in the pipe then into the clean water, syphon say one liter, allow bubble to form and repeat until all clean water has run through the chiller. The reason for the biblle is to try to clean the walls of the tube. Its what I do when I clean my lines. Also when you see the first bubble at the other end you know that all of fluid A is replaced by fluid B. Useful when they are the same colour
You should now have a flushed empty chiller.
Ok you have diluted you CF but so what.
Also they say to clean coil first for x mins, drain it, and then recirc for y mins?
Why not just recirc through coil for x+y?
Anyways hope this helps
Quote from: Simon \_/ on May 15, 2015, 10:20:07 AM
So I turned it on for the first time last night and did a cleaning run with it.
I was being quite careful not to let the pump run dry so as soon as it started sucking air I turned it off. Problems with this is that quite alot of wort is going to be left in the counter chiller. Also the Grainfather has quite alot of deadspace. Is shutting off the pump the second it appear to be sucking air the right thing to do? Do I just have to live with the amount of wort lost to the deadspace and CF chiller?
Also when I disconnect the recirculation arm or CFC a fair bit of liquid dribbles out. That's going to be messy when it's sticky wort. Is this the same for everyone?
Once you turn off the pump, the wort within the CFC should be pulled back down in to the GF. I read online that they account for the dead space loss when you use their calculator (http://www.grainfather.co.nz/#!brewing-calculators/c1vp9) (or was it the Beersmith profile, I can't remember exactly).
Have you joined the FB group, tons of information/hacks/recipes/talk it's worth checking out!
Yeah I'm on the FB group. It's worthwhile.
Have ye experienced the dribbly recirc pipe / CFC connection? quite a bit of cleaning solution went on the floor and down the pipe. When that is wort it's going to be messy.
A question raised at last nights GCB meet was "are you going to check/calibrate the thermometer to make sure temp readings are correct"
Have you guys thought of this?
I checked my STC-200 reading and it is spot on at 76C!
Note the -200 only goes up t0 90C so boiling water is not an option. Plus calibrating at zero in ice/water is probably not worth doingt!
Calibrate against a known reference thermometer at say 40C and 75C
Quote from: Simon \_/ on May 15, 2015, 11:34:38 AM
Yeah I'm on the FB group. It's worthwhile.
Have ye experienced the dribbly recirc pipe / CFC connection? quite a bit of cleaning solution went on the floor and down the pipe. When that is wort it's going to be messy.
I've had no dribbles! Is it coming out when you disconnect, or is it leaking while running? Suppose having some kitchen towel around it when disconnecting might do the job, it's not ideal but will save any spills.
I also read that you should retighten the screws on the CFC as a couple of people have had the pipes pop off when cooling
First brew day tomorrow! My 20l urn arrived just in time, I'll chuck up a photo to let you know the craic with it
Good luck with the brew!
I'm aiming to do one too this weekend
Quote from: Acott on May 15, 2015, 01:56:07 PM
Is it coming out when you disconnect, or is it leaking while running?
Just when disconnecting. I reckon I just need to give it longer to drain.
Has anybody got a Grainfather Profile for use with Beersmith?
There's already one. Go to add ons in beersmith and click the + sign. You'll find a grainfather profile.
Great! I was looking around on my iPhone app but couldnt find anything. I'll try that on the laptop later so, cheers.
How's todays brews going? If any?
If you create a recipe using the grainfather profile on your PC then save it to the cloud you can save the profile on the phone app.
Nice one, I'll try that too
Put mine together this morning. Just some added addendums to the step-by-step instructions:
Assembling Discharge Pipe: Attach the hose clamp/jubilee clip before inserting the pipe into the silicone tube.
Assembling The Boiler #4: The best way to insert the bottom perforated plate is to slide it in vertically and rotate it at the bottom of the inner basket. Watch the silicone seal does not come off the plate.
How far did you push the pipe into the silcine tube? Just to below the jubilee clip?
Quote from: beanstalk on May 16, 2015, 02:26:54 PM
How far did you push the pipe into the silcine tube? Just to below the jubilee clip?
About 2mm further
Quote from: beanstalk on May 16, 2015, 02:26:54 PM
How far did you push the pipe into the silcine tube? Just to below the jubilee clip?
See reply 112 above!
First brew on the Grainfather today, the Apollo IPA from HBC.
Ended up with a 7 hour brew day ??? due to a couple of mishaps, mainly a blown extension lead and the wort chiller.
Really not happy with the wort chiller, I'm not sure how many grams of hops were added but the pump just couldn't cope. It took well over an hour and a half to cool everything down. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.
Other than that everything else was great, the urn was incredible too, worth every penny it took 25 mins or so to get to temp and maintained it for the whole half hour I sparged.
I had a pre boil efficiency of 98%, astounded. expected OG was 1.061 ended up with 1.064.
Tried to get a photo of the wort going in to the fermenter as it was crystal clear, this is the best I could do
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24502376/20150516_175714.jpg)
had a taste and I think this is going to be very nice!
Looking forward to trying this at the next meeting! An hour and a half cool though, jaysus!
I feel a system like this you have to bag the hops. There's no way it should take that long to chill. Vermelho and i cooled a 21L batch to pitch temp with an immersion chiller in like 10 mins the last brew day. A counterflow should be as capable.
I'll be using hop bags during the boil tomorrow, hopefully that'll make a difference.
I'm normally a leaf man but tomorrow's recipe is using pellets (free mash kit)
What weight are the get'erbrewed mash kits, if anyone knows offhand?
Quote from: Acott on May 16, 2015, 08:58:38 PM
First brew on the Grainfather today, the Apollo IPA from HBC
What volumes of water went into your GF to mash?
What volume did you sparge with?
It was definitely the hops blocking the pump and not the actual chiller, now that it's been mentioned, hop bags are a must from now on!!
Quote from: fishjam45 on May 16, 2015, 11:05:22 PM
Quote from: Acott on May 16, 2015, 08:58:38 PM
First brew on the Grainfather today, the Apollo IPA from HBC
What volumes of water went into your GF to mash?
What volume did you sparge with?
I used the GF calculator on the site to work it out, mash volume was 19.16L and the sparge was 13.48L, this was for 5.8KG of grain.
I think the wort might of been a little cooler than I wanted, I stupidly pitched so now I'm praying that theres some sort of activity tomorrow :-[
I did my first gf brew yesterday. I used hop bags and the chiller worked like a dream.
One word of caution, when assembling, I over-tightened the jubalee clip at the outlet of the pump and managed to tear through the rubber connection. I noticed a leak while doing a first clean, I managed to fix it using a small cable tie. Anyway, don't over tighten it.
Is there any reason for not transferring the filtered wort to the FV and using the wort chiller there? Added bonus of some heat loss during the transfer too...
Lets start a list of recommended spare parts to have available at short notice (After all NZ is a loooong way away)
I think the pump connections may be the weakest part of the design.
Please add to this list:
1. The silicon rubber pump connectors and cable ties
Starting my first brew today! Made a but of a mess cleaning it. Don't have the right tap fitting unfortunately...
Boiling away here but thermostat never reached boil. Its just sitting at 99. Is there a way to calibrate it?
It doesn't go to 100 apparently
Quote from: beanstalk on May 17, 2015, 04:11:50 PM
Boiling away here but thermostat never reached boil. Its just sitting at 99. Is there a way to calibrate it?
The STC200 has a temp measurement range of -40c to 90c, Looks like I know the first bit of kit that is going to get replaced.
I plugged out the therm and plugged it in again and it hit the 'HH' ok then, sometimes it would back down to 99 and then start beeping when it hi 'hh'. thats a wee bit annoying but not a big deal cus it was boiling the whole time!
Right! what a day! great machine!
Brewed a pale ale (4kg of grain, .25 carapils and .25 crystal 80 with magnum for bittering and citra and amarillo for the the rest.)
First off, I used the calculations given on the instructions and they are not right. It told me that given 4.5kg of grain, i needed 16.35 for mash and 12.5 for sparge. This gave me 24 litres pre-boil so i'm missing 4l somewhere....
here's the way i sorted the tap fitting...
(http://i.imgur.com/Fofhyv6.jpg?2)
It took 25 minutes to get to mash (67 celcius)
(http://i.imgur.com/CFO8LB5.jpg?1)
The pump chugged a lot here. I thought i had a stuck sparge pretty much straight away but it came round in the end. Just a little slow i guess with strange temp fluctuations but thats my fault for panicking and ramping up the temp every time it dropped. It did look lovely in the end though and stayed +1/-1 on 67 when i got it right.
(http://i.imgur.com/gn6K3E7.jpg?1)
The sparge process takes a while but i started ramping up the temp and just as I finished sparging it was ready to boil which was cool, though it took half an hour.
(http://i.imgur.com/rJx0IPX.jpg?1) (had a 'wee' spill too :) )
The grain cake had a really fine level of grain on top which shows how effective the recirculation is.
(http://i.imgur.com/9qndNft.jpg?1)
Boiling was vigorous, but steady. I ended up losing three litres over an hour. I forgot to add the whirlfloc, but i'm not too bothered cus the recirculation seemed to be really effective, and there barley any trub after the boil, which was great!
(http://i.imgur.com/fMtNMYy.jpg?1)
Overall i'm delighted. I got a 86.92% efficiency but thats with pre-crushed so I know it can do better. I think i read somewhere they correction their calcualtion online which i must get a look at.
Still though, 19l aint bad! :)
cleaning is easy too!
Lets start a list of recommended spare parts to have available at short notice (After all NZ is a loooong way away)
I think the pump connections may be the weakest part of the design.
Please add to this list:
1. The silicon rubber pump connectors and cable ties
2. Rubber Seals that go around the grain basket plates.
3. Glass Lid - I know Im going to drop mine.
what about that brass cap that sits on the overflow when you are filling with grain or is it like a standard copper end cap?
Thats something worth adding to the list alright, the neef to make a more suitable part that will stay on better. It can fall off easily enough and looks very cheap against such a well built system.
Lets start a list of recommended spare parts to have available at short notice (After all NZ is a loooong way away)
I think the pump connections may be the weakest part of the design.
Please add to this list:
1. The silicon rubber pump connectors and cable ties
2. Rubber Seals that go around the grain basket plates.
3. Glass Lid - I know Im going to drop mine.
4. Overflow pipe blocker.
It fell off on me, was a pain to find again.
Seals for the tap fittings, especially the black one?
Please add to this list:
1. The silicon rubber pump connectors and cable ties
2. Rubber Seals that go around the grain basket plates.
3. Glass Lid - I know Im going to drop mine.
4. Overflow pipe blocker.
5. Tap fitting seals
Did my first brew on it today using the mash kit supplied by Get'erbrewed FOC - thanks lads!!! (Hoppy American Pale Ale)
Overall I am delighted with my purchase, its a very well built product and easy to use.
Would I change anything on it?
Yes - I'd attach some form of handle to the glass lid as i feel Im going to drop it sooner than later.
When chilling, a way of monitoring the temperature of the wort out hose would be valuable. I made the mistake of watching the temperature on the STC-200 instead of feeling the wort out hose to see how cold it was. I dont want to feel how cold it is going into the FV, I want to know the exact temperature.
I would like to have my water sparging directly (from above the grainbasket) from vessel to vessel rather than filling a jug and pouring into the grainbasket. I'll look into making some kind of stand.
When cleaning, the Chiller needs to be attached and taken off twice. The blue and red hose can get in the way here as they are not needed for this part of the process. Just an idea but I might look into adding quick disconnects here to remoce those two hoses when not needed.
I used nylon hop boiling bags and had no issues with a blocked hop filter.
Heres a few pictures.
Heres a few pictures.
Quote from: Ciderhead on May 17, 2015, 10:08:32 PM
what about that brass cap that sits on the overflow when you are filling with grain or is it like a standard copper end cap?
It's not a brass cap, it's a twist top for a small bottle (I would guess minibar spirit bottle size). Alpac probably do a bag of 100 of them for a euro.
Quote from: Ciderhead on May 17, 2015, 10:08:32 PM
what about that brass cap that sits on the overflow when you are filling with grain or is it like a standard copper end cap?
Its actually a 185 ml wine bottle screw cap - complete with crimp ring!
Clever Kiwis!
Quote from: Will_D on May 17, 2015, 11:36:08 AM
... spare parts to have available at short notice (After all NZ is a loooong way away)...
I've seen a UK representative pop up on the Facebook group so there should be service closer to home.
The Facebook group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/1557967401104380/) is pretty useful for stuff. It's not supported by the manufacturers but they are very visible on it.
Quote from: beanstalk on May 17, 2015, 06:47:16 PM
First off, I used the calculations given on the instructions and they are not right. It told me that given 4.5kg of grain, i needed 16.35 for mash and 12.5 for sparge. This gave me 24 litres pre-boil so i'm missing 4l somewhere....
Mash volume = (grain kg x 2.7) + 3.5 = (4.5 x 2.7) + 3.5 = 15.65 litres
Sparge volume = (28 - mash water volume ) + (grain kg x 0.8 ) = (28 - 15.65) + ( 4.5 x 0.8 ) = 15.95 litres
Quote from: arse..biscuits on May 18, 2015, 08:52:04 PM
Quote from: beanstalk on May 17, 2015, 06:47:16 PM
First off, I used the calculations given on the instructions and they are not right. It told me that given 4.5kg of grain, i needed 16.35 for mash and 12.5 for sparge. This gave me 24 litres pre-boil so i'm missing 4l somewhere....
Mash volume = (grain kg x 2.7) + 3.5 = (4.5 x 2.7) + 3.5 = 15.65 litres
Sparge volume = (28 - mash water volume ) + (grain kg x 0.8 ) = (28 - 15.65) + ( 4.5 x 0.8 ) = 15.95 litres
Just use the online calculator, I did and hit all my numbers http://www.grainfather.co.nz/#!brewing-calculators/c1vp9
Thanks! The makers advise using the online calc themselves too so I'll know in future! :)
Quote from: beanstalk on May 18, 2015, 09:52:34 PM
Thanks! The makers advise using the online calc themselves too so I'll know in future! :)
Beanstalk: As you have just cast doubt on the printed instructions can you please check your sums!
AFAIK the formula in the printed manual is as posted (by a-Biscuit) a couple of threads above and is correct!
I entered the manuals's formula into an Excel spread sheet and it agrees with the online calculator!
Thanks will. Ill check again when I get home
.
Well the first brew on the GF went well.
It was a big grain bill 6.5 kg plus 0.5 kg of oat hulls.
So that was like 22.5 litres for the mash in.
Also it was mashed at 70C!
A few notes:
The gf really needs an insulating jacket as on the 500 watt mash setting it was only just keeping at 70C
I used a hop sock and there was no problem with the pumped cooling and the puming out.
A note about calibration.
After the brew I checked the STC-200 against a certified digital thermometer and it was with 0.2 C from 30 all the way to 95C
Also checked the embossed water scales and they were spot on at 20 litres.
I will probably make a false botton out of perforated SS as I dont like the little hop strainer!
Also for Irish outdoor use it needs a lid that stands proud of the boiler (so allowin a good boil off) but keeps the rain out!
All in all I am very impressed. Next is to insulate it and do some step mashes.
https://youtu.be/alsSrbE_XhY?t=322
Small improvement in the latest stock. They've done away with the mini-bar bottle cap with something more finished looking. It's a SS cylindrical bung that slides down the overflow pipe.
http://us8.campaign-archive1.com/?u=ccba2b8b21c27d9056584bbcb&id=e198fa810f&e=b9a681bd66
Details of new modifications that will be available as upgrades. The grain stopper should be the only thing any of us are missing.
Been doing some insulation:
So far its 3 layers of B&Q "behind the radiator" insulation. This is 2 mm thick flexible polystyrene with a thick layer of Aluminium foil (well thick by kitchen standards).
There are 3 layers. Outside layer is nice and shinny but I might be able to improve on it!
How does insulation like that influence cooling?
That looks pretty damn good Will!
Quote from: molc on May 31, 2015, 09:37:22 PM
How does insulation like that influence cooling?
It has to affect cooloing naturally!
If you think of the time to get to strike temp, mash, raise to boil and finally boi you are looking at 3 to 4 hours of heat loss.
Rate of heat loss is proportinal to temperature so the higher the temp the greater the heat loss
So at the boil we have a hugh heat loss per minute.
However as we cool the rate of heat loss also drops (this can be thought of as "cooling loss")
If we use a counter flow chiller then its just that the bulk of the wort stays just that little bit hotter!
Cooling typically takes 30 to 40 minutes and if there is a slight increase in time then I don't think it matters much.
Did this today.
Put it back in your trousers :P
Don't forget to mention the 90 min mash
Love to she how she performs on a really big beer on say a double mash.
In fairness its a clever bit of kit and if I was in a flat thats what I would be taking a long hard look at.
Well John, Mine is about to meet up with a certain FES mash!
Quote from: Ciderhead on June 03, 2015, 10:25:51 PM
if I was in a flat thats what I would be taking a long hard look at.
FLAT?? Apartment my good man. Please.
:-[ Your Flat has East and West Wings :P
I'm not getting anything like the efficiency others are getting. I'm getting something like 65-75% mash efficiency. I did this brew (https://goo.gl/nxBQur) yesterday. Getting 27.5 Litres of 1.050 pre-boil from 4Kg Pale Ale, 2Kg Vienna, 1Kg Rye, 200g Dark Crystal, 50g Special K. The Rye was pre-crushed. I crushed the rest.
I think it might be a combination of a few things
1) my grain mill is PITA and some of the grain might not be getting crushed but there isn't that much and it can't be the entire problem
2) my mash ph might be too high (need a decent ph meter)
3) might try sparging up to 30 Litre mark to drag that bit more out
Anything else that could be causing poor efficiency?
show us a picture of your grain mill and close up pic of some crushed grain, your problem is there.
Quote from: Ciderhead on June 04, 2015, 11:05:39 AM
:-[ Your Flat has East and West Wings :P
And a built in bottle shop :)
Quote from: nigel_c on June 08, 2015, 12:39:47 PM
Quote from: Ciderhead on June 04, 2015, 11:05:39 AM
:-[ Your Flat has East and West Wings :P
And a built in bottle shop :)
And a source of granite head stones >:D
I swapped out the STC200 for a modded 1000.
I think I've swapped the wires around correctly into the 1000+ connections
STC200 connection to STC1000+ connection
1 -> 5
2 -> 6
4 -> 3
5 -> 4
6 -> 1
7 -> 2
I plugged the controller into the wall and played around with the menu but haven't hooked up the pumps and elements yet for a proper run
Nice job, so the stc will give you 0.1 accuracy and allow profile ramping then 8)
Let us know how you get on Simon please
i might be upgrading from Keggle / BIAB and was thinking of the GF, is it worth the investment? any drawbacks?
No drawbacks as far as I'm concerned.
I've done 4 brews now and I'm very happy with it
Quote from: jawalemon on June 22, 2015, 03:32:54 PM
i might be upgrading from Keggle / BIAB and was thinking of the GF, is it worth the investment? any drawbacks?
Definitely worth the investment. Only thing is your keggle would probably have a 50L capacity wouldn't it?
Yeah, but i only ever brew 25ltr batches. What size batches are you getting out of the GF?
I've just done 23ltr batches but 25 would be well achievable
Where are you based?
You are more than welcome to see it in action before you buy if you want?
Quote from: fishjam45 on June 22, 2015, 09:28:50 PM
I've just done 23ltr batches but 25 would be well achievable
Where are you based?
You are more than welcome to see it in action before you buy if you want?
Thanks. I will take you up on the offer. I'm based dublin South City . Where do you brew?
I brew at home in bray.
I've just put a brew into my Ferm Chamber so it will be 2 weeks before I brew again, I'm thinking the weekend of Sat 4th / Sun 5th July.
I brew pretty early in the morning - if that suits you then you are more than welcome to call over.
I'll be away then but i'll PM you when i;m back to see when you're brewing again.
Cheers
http://www.grainfather.co.nz/#!online-store/c8k/!/New-Pump-Filter/p/53104301/category=10695014
(https://dpbfm6h358sh7.cloudfront.net/images/5240038/299885438.jpg)
Nice
Hopefully the HB Shops will stock them here.
And have you seen their connical:
http://www.grainfather.co.nz/#!online-store/c8k/!/30L-Conical-Fermenter/p/45351256/category=10695014 (http://www.grainfather.co.nz/#!online-store/c8k/!/30L-Conical-Fermenter/p/45351256/category=10695014)
Admittedly its HDPE but sure looks the part and for NZ$ 90 less than the still head! (at current rates its €210 )
That conical is made by a different NZ company. Doubt we'd ever see it over here. Looks the business though!
Grainfather arriving tomorrow - anything I should be aware of before I just throw it together and brew?
There's a couple of pieces that you need to swap in and out at various times in the brew like the grain tube handle or the 2 caps for the centre pipe. Find places for those where you'll always find them and put them back there as soon as you are finished with them.
Give everything a quick trial run where you're placing the GF like a run of the CF chiller to make sure all the hoses fit and you're comfortable with the set up.
So after a lot of work and vists to Beaumont the Great Grain Father has been fabricated.
There are 3 layers of 2mm radiator foam/foil under the 1.0 mm "Circle's SS outer wrapper sheet".
Why the brass bands? Why not!
The outside temp is now like 30C and the GGF is now a hell of a lot more thermally efficient :)
Just need to swap out the controller for one of my flashed STCs
I had a christmas present wrapped like that once...brushed stainless envy
So I bought one. Did a brew on it last Monday and it was great to use. The chiller is great, up to now I have been leaving my keggle outside over night to chill. Is there any decent profiles for using beer Smith? I got the GF one in add-ons but im not sure how good it is. With the recipe I did It said I should have had an OG of 1050 but it was 1060.
Also can anyone advise what mash profile I should use?
Quote from: jawalemon on November 28, 2015, 11:50:50 PM
So I bought one. Did a brew on it last Monday and it was great to use. The chiller is great, up to now I have been leaving my keggle outside over night to chill. Is there any decent profiles for using beer Smith? I got the GF one in add-ons but im not sure how good it is. With the recipe I did It said I should have had an OG of 1050 but it was 1060.
Also can anyone advise what mash profile I should use?
Look at the Facebook Grainfather Users Group. In files there are several BS profiles for the Grainfather. But not everybody is very happy with these profiles. Some uses the GF app for the water volumes and BS for the recipe.
Quote from: McMelloW on November 29, 2015, 06:41:01 PM
Look at the Facebook Grainfather Users Group. In files there are several BS profiles for the Grainfather. But not everybody is very happy with these profiles. Some uses the GF app for the water volumes and BS for the recipe.
Yep. The standard BS profile leads to oversparging. I only do the water volumes from the manual
My preboil measurements are always off. I assume this is (despite stirring) that all the sugars go dowb south
Quote from: McMelloW on November 29, 2015, 06:41:01 PM
Look at the Facebook Grainfather Users Group. In files there are several BS profiles for the Grainfather. But not everybody is very happy with these profiles. Some uses the GF app for the water volumes and BS for the recipe.
Yep. The standard BS profile leads to oversparging. I only do the water volumes from the manual
My preboil gravity is always off. I assume this is (despite stirring) that all the sugars go dowb south
Anyone know the make and model pump used in the Grainfather?
The GF is produced in China so I'd guess it's Chinese I'd be going for the best you can afford as it's a fairly core part
Btw country of origin is not a reflection of product quality
Chuggers were produced in Mexico and now I suspect China they are just over engineered and why they are so robust
Quote from: darren996 on December 27, 2015, 06:48:10 PM
Anyone know the make and model pump used in the Grainfather?
I will open the cover and take picture for you of the pump.
Great thanks.
Darren as promised
(http://i.imgur.com/tzv15Brh.jpg?1)
Hope this is of any help. You can see all specs of the pump. Unfortunately there is no brand name visible
Quote from: McMelloW on December 28, 2015, 09:24:58 PM
Darren as promised
(http://i.imgur.com/tzv15Brh.jpg?1)
Hope this is of any help. You can see all specs of the pump. Unfortunately there is no brand name visible
Hi McMelloW - part of the model number at the top of your picture is obscured by glare. Can you take another look and post the full model number please? - it might help to track down the pump.
Quote from: McMelloW on December 28, 2015, 09:24:58 PM
Darren as promised
(http://i.imgur.com/tzv15Brh.jpg?1)
Hope this is of any help. You can see all specs of the pump. Unfortunately there is no brand name visible
Thanks McMellow, unfortunatly I cant make out the model number
I got the Graincoat for Christmas. Put it on today. It was very tight. Velcro didn't make it all the way through. However it seems to stay and felt pretty good on it. Would love to know how much of a diff it'll make. Going to see how it performs for a brew in the next few days
Trying the graincoat out right now, just mashed in.
Was a very tight fit alright.
Quote from: darren996 on December 29, 2015, 07:15:41 PM
Thanks McMellow, unfortunatly I cant make out the model number
Darren, the model is MP-10RN. Cannot take a picture without a mirroring white line.
Quote from: McMelloW on December 30, 2015, 10:30:09 AM
Quote from: darren996 on December 29, 2015, 07:15:41 PM
Thanks McMellow, unfortunatly I cant make out the model number
Darren, the model is MP-10RN. Cannot take a picture without a mirroring white line.
Thanks buddy, much appreciated
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/760066872.html?tracelog=storedetail2mobilesitedetail
Quote from: fishjam45 on December 30, 2015, 09:29:55 AM
Trying the graincoat out right now, just mashed in.
Was a very tight fit alright.
Would love to know what you thought of it as was thinking about it myself, is it designed to be put on once and left on or could you take it off easily enough say when you want to use the wort chiller to help cool down faster?
Or if you could be arsed and a Velcro strip to keep it on
https://m.reddit.com/r/grainfather/comments/3fkziw/looking_for_an_insulation_jacket_for_your/?ref=readnext
Quote from: oreils87 on December 30, 2015, 03:38:29 PM
Quote from: fishjam45 on December 30, 2015, 09:29:55 AM
Trying the graincoat out right now, just mashed in.
Was a very tight fit alright.
Would love to know what you thought of it as was thinking about it myself, is it designed to be put on once and left on or could you take it off easily enough say when you want to use the wort chiller to help cool down faster?
You can take it off BUT you're not supposed to recirc the wort back in. Its supposed to go directly to the FV
Just got a Grainfather and made the first brew - pleased so far. But a question for the experienced brewers: the Grainfather instructions go for a stepped mashing sequence ( no times given ). Is this necessary peculiarly for the Grainfather system or are they being pedantic?
Up to yourself. Depending on the style you may want to do it, but there's no need for a lot of styles. I don't think there's anything particular to a grainfather to influence the decision.
Personally I do a mash out, simply as it costs no additional time and makes the sparging a little easier.
The idea of stepped mashes comes into its own where grains were historically not fully modified, and benefits say for example if you were brewing a lager with floor malted bohemian pilsner malt.
For somebody starting out all you need to worry about at this stage for ales is your temp at 67 for an hour and mashing out at 75 for additional 10 mins, and more hot water at same temp to sparge with not boiling!
Get a few of those under your belt and you will be flying and will be doing 35 54 64 67 75!
They're def not saying you need to do it. Its primarly a guide to show you what the button is to be set at (normal or mash). I do a mash out as its dead simple with the GF then a sparge. Works great!!
Thanks, folks !
Hi Barry and welcome to the site.
Where are you based?
There are a few grainfathers in the Dublin North County!
There's even a Greatgrainfather in North County
Based in Skerries, the heart of Fingal. Haven't quite got round to joining the club yet.
Barry
North county meet in malahide the last Tuesday of every month. Perfect location for a skerries native :)
Indeed! Next meeting is in Fowlers on Tuesday, the 26th at 7 pm.
You will be more than welcome with or without beer!
What is the maximum malt bill for one of these chappies :-\
Quote from: DEMPSEY on March 07, 2016, 01:01:14 PM
What is the maximum malt bill for one of these chappies :-\
9kg but the sparge apparently takes for ever. The makers think 8kg is more reasonable
9kgs and you would need a big spoon of syrup of figs to "move it along"
Our club has a recipe for 20 liters that has 9.65Kg of malt ???. Would it handle that do you think. Also how are ye all finding the hop pellets additions.
Might be pushing it. Could you scale it down to a 19L batch? Be a bugger to stir so you might want to try underletting by dropping the grain basket slowly into the water. Not tried it myself but apparently it avoids dough balls
Split the batch and double mash
It's a longer brewday but worth it
so do 2 10 liter batches then. How are ye finding the use of hop pellets. Are they clogging up the flow rate.
Quote from: DEMPSEY on March 07, 2016, 05:26:07 PM
How are ye finding the use of hop pellets. Are they clogging up the flow rate.
No problem at all. I did six brews with the old hop filter and it was fine. Did a couple a month back with the new filter and it did seem to be more efficient at capturing the hops.
The new filter being the Tee shaped one yes.
I did a 9.2KG batch last week and it was just at the brim! the recirculation arm was having trouble as it was right in the thick of it, hard to stir and sparging took the guts of an hour (needed an extra hand to lift it!) - I would recommend scaling it down if ya can!!!
Quote from: DEMPSEY on March 07, 2016, 05:26:07 PM
so do 2 10 liter batches then. How are ye finding the use of hop pellets. Are they clogging up the flow rate.
I did it recently with an 11.75kg grain bill.
5.875kg mashed as normal, no mashout, sparge back upto preboil.
Add in 2nd 5.875kg to existing wort, mash again then mashout this time.
Sparge back up to preboil vol.
Boil.
I have exact steps and gravity reading written down if anyone wants them.
For those of you who have brewed with the grainfather,what sort of efficiency are you getting. Wanting to set up an equipment profile in beersmith for this :)
I think there's a Grainfather equipment add on in Beersmith
It's no use though ... I got one from the Facebook users group, I'll try find the link
Quote from: DEMPSEY on March 24, 2016, 11:54:21 AM
For those of you who have brewed with the grainfather,what sort of efficiency are you getting. Wanting to set up an equipment profile in beersmith for this :)
I nearly always get 83%
https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/Grainfather%20profile.pdf?token=AWwgw2K3ScvTBEvel9nsWJ4LmvI5DzqEPtULvbtnXDcfoPYT-pUAZGRE-Lv9za2ge9CJnstKbVtpOe64Mrz1s1h741Mk-kBiKUb6cJXFbogV-zea8uTkpiPVWTkmnXSNZ91UjPcVaEfeoObfVGakBHQA0hFgcQ8Fu9ZyjoLH_1G5eQ
Here's another one that I copied
https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/GrainFather19LProfile.pdf?token=AWwdyIaN-u7HZQFri_dU8-aniTCBT6qIlY5Tc5dgsDh4a9hIhCPZDZ8RqC8kBrQ07yZrg0SMpOF3KH2u3xWSViWLTnvqEzhK5u0eW2Myi-GPFksph3qr35bEhqQy_-ryEfzVp1M_spS6OOIpkPSdWanw
Thanks for the link. The regular Beersmith one is awful!
Are people happy with their grainfathers? I brew on my own and setting up my regular system has just become a hassle I don't enjoy unless it's something big like a barley wine.
Thinking a grainfather is the way to go.
Ease of use and ease of setup are 2 of the many reasons why I'm delighted I bought a grainfather.
I look forward to brewdays and in fact I probably have too much beer brewed because of it ... Good complaint I know.
Quote from: fishjam45 on March 24, 2016, 08:01:27 PM
Ease of use and ease of setup are 2 of the many reasons why I'm delighted I bought a grainfather.
I look forward to brewdays and in fact I probably have too much beer brewed because of it ... Good complaint I know.
Yea the ease of set up etc is really why I'm interested. I can't have my gear set up permanently and dragging everything outside, setting up extension leads, etc takes a good hour every brew day. It'll be a while before I make a purchase but I think I might bite the bullet!
Grainfather is an excellent bit of kit. I used to brew on gas. It was a huge pain, too expensive, kept overshooting my mash temp and too many things to clean. With the GF i can put it on after dinner to get to mash temp, watch a film with the kids, start the mash half way through the film, put the kids to be and be done with loads of time to enjoy my previous brew. Clean up is a joy (as much as clean up can be).
I graduated from biab in a keggle to it in October and love it. I've never been able to work out efficiency but it's way better than the biab setup I had.
Quote from: fishjam45 on March 24, 2016, 03:37:27 PM
Here's another one that I copied
https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/GrainFather19LProfile.pdf?token=AWwdyIaN-u7HZQFri_dU8-aniTCBT6qIlY5Tc5dgsDh4a9hIhCPZDZ8RqC8kBrQ07yZrg0SMpOF3KH2u3xWSViWLTnvqEzhK5u0eW2Myi-GPFksph3qr35bEhqQy_-ryEfzVp1M_spS6OOIpkPSdWanw
This one has the brewhouse efficiency at 75% should I move that to 83% :)
I would, yes.
The 2 of those downloads seem t have conflicting information. Lauter Tun Deadspace on one is 1.50 and the other is 3.41. Also Top up water for Kettle on one is 0.00 while the other is 3.41. any reason they are so different :-\
I'm not sure.
I've never topped up so I'd leave that field blank.
I've never physically measured dead space but I reckon it's roughly 2ltrs.
Measured it with the small filter and it was 2.1 Liters
Jaysus I wasn't far off :-)
Trying to get my head around the water adjustment in Beersmith for the mash amount.Anyone able to adjust the mash water additions to reflect what the grainfather ask for :(
I always stick to the GF website for their mash/Sparge volumes.
It would be nice if BS could be adjusted somehow
Any Beersmith Experts know how?
Not sure if this is what ye're asking, but I know if I want to change my mash & sparge amounts in my mash profiles, I need to increase/decrease the grain/water ratio value. Double click your mash step in BS and you'll see it. Let me know if that's what you mean!
tried that but the issue with Grainfather is you have a grain to liter ratio all right but then you add a fixed amount extra of 3.5 Liters :(
I just use the GF formula in ther instructions!
Ok, its in the brewing recipe/logs spreadsheet.
Last brew I did got a 83% mash efficiency. (again using their formula)
I have only done a few brews on mine and had a couple of disasters, stuck sparge (milled too fine), blocked pump resulted in aborting my first two attempts. On third attempt I milled on wider setting and used hop bag for all hop additions and the brew went very well though low efficiency. What's the verdict on using boil bags for hops? Do people hang them off the side? I can't understand how GF are claiming this is not necessary. Also their hop spider seems to be too coarse for pellets at 800 microns.
I haven't used a hop bag and haven't had any problems.
For water amounts I use the grainfather app and haven't had any problems.
Is that using leaf or pellet? I use pellet.
I use pellet
I had brewed a dipa with a mix of leaf and pellets with about 250g of hops. Nothing came out of the counterflow chiller until i moved some of the leaf off the filter so that the pump could do its work. 2 second fix and it was grand after that.
I bought a hop spider in the recent group buy as i find lifting the GF and emptying it with a load of wet hops can be a ton weight. I personally haven't bothered with hop bags a year+
Pellets for me in a hop bag everytime, never any issues with pump filter.
I once had a very slow sparge but that was due to grain crush too fine.
What do you do after the boil? Say whirlpool with paddle, then cool to 80C then hop stand followed by counter chill to FV?
I cool to 90 add hops and recirculate for 30 min before cooling into fv
No whirlpool? Wonder if I have a bad pump or something, I'm sure mine would clog up and slow toa trickle if I did this without using bags
Grainfather is too narrow and the filter is almost in the center to be able to have a successful whirlpool.
Does anyone find that the odd bit of grain is ending up in the boil? Did a brew today and noticed some grain made its way in, worried about tannins now!
It didn't escape down the side when I was mashing in as I use a funnel, nothing went down the overflow pipe during mashing either.
I think the plate at the bottom is letting grain through, not because of the rubber seal but because of the size of the holes and possibly my crush.
I noticed some Bruameister owners had the same trouble with grain in the boil, they now come with an extra mesh filter to cover the plate. Might give this a shot for the next brew.
I only had problem with grain getting through when i had a very large grain bill and it overflowed a bit. Whats your crush size?
Unfortunately I don't have a pic, using a corona mill at the minute
Get yourself a set of feeler gauges
I did a brew today and whatever way it was recirculating after flame out it made a hop cone(ish). On previous brews all the hops gathered on the hop filter.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160328/db99625acfa376953248a664f480f0af.jpg)
Was the flow ok :)
Yeah, was better today compared to previous.
Jasus.... Glad I came across this thread. I've had the Grainfather for about 10 months now and felt like a loner. I find beersmith complex at the best of times so I was glad to see that there was an app for this wee beauty. Funny thing is the Grainfather App puts me about 2 litres short of sparge water in comparison to the Grainfather manuals calculation. It's a great piece if kit that after about 6 brews I'm getting the hang of. Whirlpool was never mentioned before and when I did it on met latest batch I was able to extract more into the fermenter as the clogging became less of an issue. I do believe my brews are getting more consistent and the final results are worth the outlay. I have the old filter.
Has anyone set this on a plant stand with wheels? I heard that is the dogs for ease of movement.
How many Northerners like myself are owners?
Quote from: fishjam45 on March 28, 2016, 09:31:25 PM
Get yourself a set of feeler gauges
Intersting, if anyone has a gauge that is working for them on a corona mill it would be much appreciated!
Quote from: Roo on March 29, 2016, 12:47:51 AM
Jasus.... Glad I came across this thread. I've had the Grainfather for about 10 months now and felt like a loner. I find beersmith complex at the best of times so I was glad to see that there was an app for this wee beauty. Funny thing is the Grainfather App puts me about 2 litres short of sparge water in comparison to the Grainfather manuals calculation. It's a great piece if kit that after about 6 brews I'm getting the hang of. Whirlpool was never mentioned before and when I did it on met latest batch I was able to extract more into the fermenter as the clogging became less of an issue. I do believe my brews are getting more consistent and the final results are worth the outlay. I have the old filter.
Has anyone set this on a plant stand with wheels? I heard that is the dogs for ease of movement.
How many Northerners like myself are owners?
I made a stand specifically for my grainfather - it's currently out on loan to another grainfather owner.
I'll post a few pics when I get it back ...
Guys, do you know if the new pump filter is included in the MK2 version or is this optional? I received mine last week, had the first Grainfather brew day today and I have to say I'm everything but impressed. I took me 10 hours until I could pitch the yeast mainly because of the massive problems with the pump filter ( the old one ) which was completely blocked by the pellets, also I had to clean the valve, remove and clean spring inside like four times. The wort was only dripping very slowly so the coolig wasnt effective at all... For now I hate that thing :)
I used about 90g of pellets in total, graifather support says this shouldn't be an issue. Next time I should use the hop bags I guess
The dealer told me this is the newest version but has the old pump filter?
P.S The efficiency was still 7 points higher than expected and the clarity wasn't bad either.
The new filter is a big improvement. That sucks that they are still selling models with old filter. I'd like wager that if you got in touch with the imake/ grainfather and told them you just bought one with the old filter they'd replace it for free
Quote from: Martin on April 03, 2016, 08:18:22 PM
Guys, do you know if the new pump filter is included in the MK2 version or is this optional? I received mine last week, had the first Grainfather brew day today and I have to say I'm everything but impressed. I took me 10 hours until I could pitch the yeast mainly because of the massive problems with the pump filter ( the old one ) which was completely blocked by the pellets, also I had to clean the valve, remove and clean spring inside like four times. The wort was only dripping very slowly so the coolig wasnt effective at all... For now I hate that thing :)
I used about 90g of pellets in total, graifather support says this shouldn't be an issue. Next time I should use the hop bags I guess
The dealer told me this is the newest version but has the old pump filter?
P.S The efficiency was still 7 points higher than expected and the clarity wasn't bad either.
I did a handful of brews with mine and the first couple were disasters (initially milling too fine, even had terrible trouble with the HBC kit that came free with it which I ended up dumping at 2am!), next one I ended up chilling with my old immersion chiller after blocked pump, again at 2am.
On my last two brews I was ultra careful, first I used hop bags hanging from the side clips and removed them prior to
chilling. This worked well and got good flow out to the FV. This was an SNPA clone so not exactly a stress test.
On my last one after considering that others say they don't use hop bags I used about 140g of pellet hops with a 6.5kg grain bill. All went fine until chill time, I turned on the pump but got no flow. Then I turned off the pump, removed the recirculation arm and with my mouth blew into the outlet pipe resulting in bubbles passing up through the wort (a trick I read on this forum). When I turned on the pump I then had an acceptable flow (though slower than I would like).
Note that I tried a whirlpool before chilling as recommended by GF but this seemed to do nothing as I had a flat layer of trub at the bottom and a concentration of caked hops around the pump filter.
Hope this helps, stick with it I feel your pain!
BTW Can you confirm your filter is inline with the pump outlet, not perpendicular? I bought mine before Christmas and got the new filter and grain stopper.
Did the Liffey Brew day and all went well except for the cooling stage. 60 grams of hops total but the flow return going back to the grainfather slowed to a trickle. I stopped it and whirlpooled the wort and started again but after awhile it slowed again. It eventually got to around 34 C but the slow rate had the trickle at 15 C so I transferred to the fermenter. Too slow for that part of the time. Only other issue I had was getting to full boil but that was because we were out in the cold back yard,will need a jacket for outdoor :)
Guy has a template in Jims for a jacket Mr. D and affiliates sell em as well
90g of pellets is nothing for the GF. I never whirlpool (and i don't recall them saying you should)
Just looked at the grainfather youtube clip and he only waits to cool the wort temp to 20 C or so and transfer straight to the fermenter. Do any of you return the wort to the grainfather and so chill all the wort in place before you transfer. :-\
I only do that if want to drop a little for a hop stand. Otherwise I just go straight into the fermenter. Chilling is most efficient when the temp difference is greatest. Nothing is gained by recirculating.
This is an email I received last week on the blocked filter
Hi Ruairi,
Sorry to hear of the issues that you are having the problem with hops in the Grainfather. Are you stirring the wort into a whirlpool prior to starting the pump? This helps create a filter layer over the pump filter. There is a good explanation of this technique in the Weekly Mash section of our website.
We are hoping to have the hop spider back in stock by the end of April
Best Regards,
David
Kind Regards
Dave
Technical Advisor
@ hefeman - yes, the filter is inline with the pump outlet.
@ all. thanks for all the answers. So, I guess I have to buy a hop spider a a new pump filter :) Now, I have to say I am seriously disappointed with the GF. I did everything as in the GF video and encountered massive issues with the pump, filter and valves, my brew day was a 10h brewing disaster .
I mean I paid 850 euros for that thing that was supposed to make my brewing faster, less work, and more pleasant. Instead it ruined my Sunday and the chances of wort infection are quite high after all what I had to do in order to get the pump and valves to work again. Now I have to buy a hop spider and a new pump filter and pray to God every time I brew that the pump doesn't get blocked.
I also got the GF Insulation coat, and guess what? Its 2 cm to short, one end of the velcro fastener doesn't reach the other so impossible to wrap the coat around the vessel properly.
The only thing that really works as supposed is the sparge water heater :( I should have saved more money and go for the Braumeister.
I bought a hop spider in the recent group buy...a worthy investment! Did a brew last Monday, 125grams in total used, chilled and in to the fermenter in roughly 20mins! Recipe called for a hop stand, I just recirculated the wort through the spider when sanitising the chiller to get the most out of the hops. I have the old hop filter so no need to buy a new one once you have the spider.
Quote from: Martin on April 04, 2016, 08:12:48 AM
I should have saved more money and go for the Braumeister.
Don't worry, I remember my first brew day with the Grainfather was a nightmare...I now have my brew day down to between 4 and a half to 5 hours. I'm exceeding numbers and making stress free beer...honestly you just need more brew time on it, it really is a great piece of kit once you know the ins and outs and get your flow down!
Does anybody recirculate back to the grainfather and chill the whole lot before transfer to the fermenter. ???
Quote from: DEMPSEY on April 04, 2016, 09:22:35 AM
Does anybody recirculate back to the grainfather and chill the whole lot before transfer to the fermenter. ???
That isn't necessary but I think it is recommended to recirculate for a few mins just to sterilise the recirculation arm.
Aah haa that's were I went wrong on my first outing so. My old system has a counterflow and a chugger pump and I would pump the fook out of the wort and back to the boil kettle thus cooling all before going on to the fermenter. Need retraining I doe's ;D
I've always been a fan of recirculating back to the BK, as you cool the whole body of wort at the same time, which retains more of the hop aromas from what I understand. I do it with a plate chiller and get from 100-17 in 15 minutes.
Quote from: Martin on April 04, 2016, 08:12:48 AM
@ all. thanks for all the answers. So, I guess I have to buy a hop spider a a new pump filter :)
You won't need a hop spider. The new filter works well.
So,
1 finish the boil,
2 switch off the pump,
3 stir good and hard for a minute,
4 let the wort stop spinning and let it settle,
5 switch on the pump to run hot wort through the counterflow and back to the grainfather for 2 minutes,
6 connect the cold water to the counterflow and begin cooling wort.
7 confirm cool wort temp as it return's to the grainfather and when it is 20 C redirect it to the fermenter.
Here's how I do it
1 10-15 minutes before end of boil, connect the wort chiller and turn on the pump, recirculating into GF to sterilise the chiller
2 connect the cold water to the counterflow
3 finish the boil
4 stir good and hard for a minute,
5 turn on cold water, move the wort-out tube to the fermenter (turn off the pump briefly if you can't do this without spilling)
6 confirm cool wort temp as you take a gravity reading. It should be around 20c depending on your water temp. If it's too high increase the water flow
7 when it's finished transferring I put it in the ferm chamber and connect a temp probe. When it's at my pitching temperature I pitch
So you connect and run the counterflow before end of boil. How do you get to stir the hot wort with the counterflow sitting on top of the grainfather.
Quote from: Simon_ on April 04, 2016, 10:16:38 AM
1 10-15 minutes before end of boil, connect the wort chiller and turn on the pump, recirculating into GF to sterilise the chiller
I find that if I connect the chiller before the end of the boil it kills the boil and it takes a couple of minutes to get it back, so I've just been connecting it as soon as the boil is over and recirculating it for 5 minutes before chilling, this has been working well for me.
If I'm making a lager and I want it much colder than you'd get from the tap water I connect in a pre-chiller. This is copper chiller in a bucket with ice water connected between the tap water and the CF chiller.
Recirculating back into the GF is fine for sterilising the chiller but it's pointless for getting down to pitching temp any quicker. The easy part is getting it to drop from the hottest temp. The harder part is to get it to drop the last few degrees. The best way to get it down the last couple of degrees is to increase the water flow.
Quote from: DEMPSEY on April 04, 2016, 10:28:42 AM
So you connect and run the counterflow before end of boil. How do you get to stir the hot wort with the counterflow sitting on top of the grainfather.
I have the chiller propped up on a stool beside the GF :) No lid.
This is the dumbest part of the intended GF operation.
Thanks guys.
I was trying to cool the wort down by recirculating back into the GF which obviously was a bad idea and contributed massively to the total brewing session time. I'm going to order the new pump filter, take your advice as for the brewing steps and see how it goes then.
Two things that I'm impressed with - the clarity is amazing and the OG was much higher than expected.
By recirculating back into your boiler and letting it stand to do not catch more of the cold break instead of having it all go into your FV?
They actually recommend you don't recirc beyond the 5 minutes for the chiller. I do it after the boil
Here's the video where they go into it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJNI6hp8GnA&feature=youtu.be
Quote from: CH on April 04, 2016, 11:28:23 AM
By recirculating back into your boiler and letting it stand to do not catch more of the cold break instead of having it all go into your FV?
I was reading I think on Brulosophy.com that the cold break isnt bad to get in the fermenter and may be good, i think he did an experiment and the cold break one cleared up faster.
Quote from: neoanto on April 04, 2016, 11:50:28 AM
Quote from: CH on April 04, 2016, 11:28:23 AM
By recirculating back into your boiler and letting it stand to do not catch more of the cold break instead of having it all go into your FV?
I was reading I think on Brulosophy.com that the cold break isnt bad to get in the fermenter and may be good, i think he did an experiment and the cold break one cleared up faster.
It's what commercial brewers do,even the good,the bad and the ugly ;)
They know what they are doing don't they ???
As for the Grainfather Cleaning Solution - wouldn't OXI do the same job? Is the dedicated GF cleaner worth the money?
You have to use something that is safe for the 304 stainless steel but iMake have said that PBW is fine.
https://www.reddit.com/r/IAmA/comments/2x0sxs/i_am_imker_swanepoel_industrial_designer_for_the/covw3nh
I only run that stuff through it very rarely. Mostly washing up liquid and elbow grease
http://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/304-vs-316-stainless-steel
304 Stainless Steel
Stainless steel provides an attractive, clean finish with low maintenance cost
304 stainless steel has a high resistance to rust. It withstands corrosion from most oxidizing acids and is often used for kitchen and food applications. However, it is susceptible to corrosion from chloride solutions (notably saline environments with high amounts of sodium chloride). Chloride ions can create localized areas of corrosion, called "pitting," which can spread beneath protective chromium barriers to compromise internal structures. Solutions with as little as 25 ppm of sodium chloride can begin to have a corrosive effect.
Isn't OXI a sodium chloride solution?
Am I an idiot or was this chilling into the fermenter a new thing. When I watched the videos at the start it either wasn't clear or wasn't mentioned. It does however make sense now after watching the above video
Quote from: Roo on April 04, 2016, 02:06:23 PM
Am I an idiot or was this chilling into the fermenter a new thing. When I watched the videos at the start it either wasn't clear or wasn't mentioned. It does however make sense now after watching the above video
I had the version 1 and the instructions aid chill into the fermentor
I think that's how they intended it to be done from the start but I know alot of people weren't clear on it and they put out one of their instructional videos emphasising why it was most efficient to chill straight into the fermenter and gave a good explanation of why that was
Instructions (page 12):
https://nationalhomebrew.com.au/uploads/attachments/National_Home_Brew_ID-57768_1409169738.pdf
Quote from: Martin on April 04, 2016, 01:41:00 PM
Isn't OXI a sodium chloride solution?
If you mean Lidl W5 Oxy Power then no, its Sodium Per-Carbonate
Quote from: DEMPSEY on April 04, 2016, 11:56:57 AM
Quote from: neoanto on April 04, 2016, 11:50:28 AM
Quote from: CH on April 04, 2016, 11:28:23 AM
By recirculating back into your boiler and letting it stand to do not catch more of the cold break instead of having it all go into your FV?
I was reading I think on Brulosophy.com that the cold break isnt bad to get in the fermenter and may be good, i think he did an experiment and the cold break one cleared up faster.
It's what commercial brewers do,even the good,the bad and the ugly ;)
They know what they are doing don't they ???
I'm putting center diptubes into the BK next, as with a spider it's just break material in the bottom. Doesn't seem to effect the beer in the slightest and way easier to clean in place.
Yes Will, its what I mean. Therefore safe to use I suppose?
Quick update - after the new pump filter arrived my next brew day was close to perfect. I used leaf hops, around 150g in total, no hop spider or bags were used. GF performed great, no further issues with the filter, valves etc. I've recilculated the wort for 2-3 minutes into GF and transfred then straight into the fermentor. Wort temperature was 20C during transfer. The counterflow chiller is fantastic. Again, OG much higher than expected, great clarity. I will buy the hop spider though - just for peace of mind :)
I bought the hop spider for the peace of mind, as well. It's grand with a "normal" amount of hops, but I made an amber brew the other day which required quite a lot, and it was rather full. I ended up twisting a piece of clothes hanger to allow me to let the spider deeper into the boil and stirring it's contents for some time.
Such is life - nothing's perfect!
New control box on the way
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160522/840c4c7754b90de580b33e45860e9f25.jpg)
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Oh goodie!!
That's a win all around, as I'm sure you can us the control box with any system if it's sold separately. Nice one!
Looks great, would be slightly restricted to a 2kW(?) & 21L final volume of Grainfather - the PID & other variables probably wouldn't be user changeable.
You'd have to rework it to handle two Keggle elements.
Oh well, would just have to get a grain father then... >:)
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Wash your mouth out with soap!
How long does it take to move and setup our kit again? :)
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Quote from: molc on May 23, 2016, 08:31:41 AM
How long does it take to move and setup our kit again? :)
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Ah but that's have the fun lol
Lads...Graincoat is it worth it?
Have not seen the need for it. My boil is achieved well and if you had a jacket the boil off rate would increase I would say. That said I have not bothered to read up on it to see if anything else on it is an advantage :-\
Quote from: Acott on August 31, 2016, 08:54:20 AM
Lads...Graincoat is it worth it?
Yes definitely. It cuts off quite a bit of time getting to the boil. If you're planning to brew outside it can help if it gets a bit windy
Quote from: Acott on August 31, 2016, 08:54:20 AM
Lads...Graincoat is it worth it?
I would say it's worth it in that I spent about €20 and an hour making my own attempt out of the shiny insulation stuff. If you buy the grain jacket you save yourself that hour, you can take it off when you want and it won't look shit like mine.
You definitely some insulation for outdoor brewing 6 months a year
I brewed on Saturday and getting to the boil took very long for some reason, if it can help with that then i'll be very happy!
I was considering some sort of a water heater immersion to get temps up quicker...not sure how safe it is though
Heat stick or bucket heater is probably what your looking for there.
Plenty of info but as you said I'd question how safe some of them are.
Quote from: Acott on August 31, 2016, 11:18:59 AM
I brewed on Saturday and getting to the boil took very long for some reason, if it can help with that then i'll be very happy!
I was considering some sort of a water heater immersion to get temps up quicker...not sure how safe it is though
I'd say it takes me 20-25 minutes to get from 76° to boiling. I'm sparging during the start of that. How long was it taking you?
It definitely took longer before I insulated it.
Quote from: nigel_c on August 31, 2016, 11:33:53 AM
Heat stick or bucket heater is probably what your looking for there.
Plenty of info but as you said I'd question how safe some of them are.
Would that scorch the wort?
It mush of been 30 - 40 minutes to get up to the boil, which was killer as it really slows down the brew day!
I have been mucking about with sparge temps as well so that probably didn't help
Quote from: HomeBrewWest on August 31, 2016, 01:16:08 PM
Quote from: nigel_c on August 31, 2016, 11:33:53 AM
Heat stick or bucket heater is probably what your looking for there.
Plenty of info but as you said I'd question how safe some of them are.
Would that scorch the wort?
Hmm it's possible, the heat stick look to be around €25, but if it could save me 30 minutes that would be brilliant!
I'd start with a jacket those heat sticks are dangerous.
No earth on most of the ones I've seen. ???
Insulation would be my first stop.
I bought one of those jackets. Weird, I had to return it - it didn't fit! ( It wouldn't wrap around.) Just about to make one out of a camping mat.
I've one of the jackets as well. Never tried without it. The jacket doesn't fit all the way around in mine either. I've read that there's a lot like that. So I just used some Velcro backing to fasten it together. I seem to take about 30 mins in average to reach boil but it really depends on the size of the grain bill as well as what's in it, wheat, Barley, malt etc.
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Then of course there is always the North County Solution:
"Shed loads of money/loads of free time" and you get one of these:
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/forum/index.php/topic,9390.msg134563.html#msg134563
It pays to not skip over the reading material you get with equipment as I have being putting the lid on my grainfather during boil and the bleedin thing keep's insisting on trying to boil over with it having success when i am not watching >:(. You do not leave the lid on during boil :)
Quote from: DEMPSEY on September 01, 2016, 12:29:02 PM
It pays to not skip over the reading material you get with equipment as I have being putting the lid on my grainfather during boil and the bleedin thing keep's insisting on trying to boil over with it having success when i am not watching >:(. You do not leave the lid on during boil :)
Ah Dempsey... You DMS fiend
Quote from: DEMPSEY on September 01, 2016, 12:29:02 PM
It pays to not skip over the reading material you get with equipment as I have being putting the lid on my grainfather during boil and the bleedin thing keep's insisting on trying to boil over with it having success when i am not watching >:(. You do not leave the lid on during boil :)
noob ;D
What,there is a hole in the top you know,...jeez :P
Just had a brew day with my new great coat made out of a camping mat. My brew day was shorter but what struck me most was that the mash temperature was maintained better. Best value for 15€ in a long time.
I was a bit unhappy with the profile in Beersmith for the GF. I came across this PDF to set the right GF profile
Have you tested it out.
No but it was pretty close to the profile and batch size I was going to go with next time. I'll give it a go in couple of weeks time
Just realized that that's the same download I got a few pages back. It is perfect to produce 19 liters finished into a corney but the water rate is still not the same as Grainfather.
Brewed with the graincoat on Saturday, what a difference! Temps held so well during mash, still taking longer than i'd like with getting to boil, but it'll do right!
I'm going to give that GF beersmith profile a go for the next brew
Anyone know if you can do decoction
http://grainfatherweeklymash.blogspot.ie/2015/05/week-23-decoction-mashing.html
Apparently so but I can't vouch for it
Heres a small video review of the new GF Control Box:
GRAINFATHER CONNECT BLUETOOTH CONTROLLER REVIEW PART ONE
https://youtu.be/6dY2QiqwpE4
I'm liking the fact that you can use your old control box for something else now too. I expect to see full "here's what I did with my old one" posts ;D
This does look like a pretty sweet update in fairness though and he doesnt even get into using the app yet either.
So who will be first in the auld sod to get these for sale?
I think I bought mine GF from GeterBrewed.
So as its already pimped with my shinny jacket what to call the "soon to be pimped" GF?
Spotted this yesterday, good hack for a quicker cleaning time
I watched the video for the Bluetooth controller. If I actually used my brew shed for brewing in then it would be useful to set a strike time. I don't do step mashes that often and honestly it's really very little hassle to set an alarm and change it. I'm just not sure it's worth it for me...
I had a look at the controller video as well. Yer man is clearly very taken with it. I liked the look of the PID temp control. Although mind you the temp control isn't too bad as is. Hard to know if it's worth the 120 yoyos though.
Put on a brew yesterday using hop bags for all additions (pellets) and the whole process was much smoother and much easier to clean in the end. Cut my brew time down to just over four hours.
Had a disaster brewday the other day.
Did a double brew on Sunday, the first batch was going grand until I was pumping into the fermenter and forgot to close the tap. Lost about 4 litres to the floor. That wasn't even the worst part of the day.
I've got a Grainfather and I invested in the new and improved pump filter (the T shaped one)
When I was doing my hop stand I decided to stir the wort to create a whirlpool. When I was stirring I heard the filter come off (I heard scratching from the bottom of the vessel). I tested the pump and sure enough it got blocked. I had used a mixture of whole leaf and pellet and the whole thing was fully blocked. I decided to pour the wort into a sanitised bucket and try to clear the blockage. While pouring the wort into the bucket, the support for the GF slipped and 25 litres of wort went pouring onto the patio. Broke my heart.
This is not the first time the filter has come off while stirring although the last time it happened I did managed to knock it with my mash paddle.
To top it all off I dropped and smashed my thermometer when putting all my equipment away.
Just some advice for anyone using the new filter, be careful as it can come dislodged during stirring.
Sorry for your troubles, Hop bags or hop spider?
I've never had the filter come off on me. You must have been giving it some welly!
Cheers CH, it was disheartening to say the least plus my kids learned a few new "words" that day! I don't know why but I've a dislike of hop bags and spiders, dunno why. Kind of like the thought of my hops getting free range of the Grainfather.
I was lashing the wort out of it Pheeel! The whirlpool was so strong I could almost see the element at the bottom of the GF! Probably need to settle down the next time.
I've knocked the filter off at least once. Easy enough to do. It's a right nuisance when it happens.
Quote from: mick02 on November 22, 2016, 02:20:04 PM
Cheers CH, it was disheartening to say the least plus my kids learned a few new "words" that day! I don't know why but I've a dislike of hop bags and spiders, dunno why. Kind of like the thought of my hops getting free range of the Grainfather.
I was lashing the wort out of it Pheeel! The whirlpool was so strong I could almost see the element at the bottom of the GF! Probably need to settle down the next time.
Hop spiders rock. Haven't noticed a difference in my hoppy beers and cleaning is so easy!
Any Hop Spiders you would recomend that work well with the Grainfather?
Cheapest ones are weighted nylon bags and then look at the ones in the HB stores or bridgewater
I got mine from the Homebrew Company. Works grand, although with a decent quantity of hops I have rigged up a wire hook to allow the spider to sink more into the boiling wort - and I stir it now and again throughout the boil.
Potential Buyers beware
http://forum.craftbrewing.org.uk/viewtopic.php?t=11175
I bought a Grainbrother the other week from THBC. They sent me the new controller. I used it to brew a pilsner with a step mash. Lovely!
One thing I noticed is that the pump on my original GF was a LOAD slower than the pump on my GB. I checked and it's the same model. I think I need to clean out the pump on the GF as it's probably got some gunk in there. Has anyone attempted this? Any guidance? I don't want to balls it up!
Quote from: Pheeel on December 01, 2016, 05:25:44 PM
I bought a Grainbrother the other week from THBC. They sent me the new controller. I used it to brew a pilsner with a step mash. Lovely!
One thing I noticed is that the pump on my original GF was a LOAD slower than the pump on my GB. I checked and it's the same model. I think I need to clean out the pump on the GF as it's probably got some gunk in there. Has anyone attempted this? Any guidance? I don't want to balls it up!
I haven't opened up my pump to clean it so can't comment. I did have a pretty serious blockage a few brews back and used a pump for an air matress to blow are through the recirculation arm back into the kettle. It cleared the blockage and I did notice a performance improvement. Your mileage may vary though!
I got a bottle of the Grainfather Cleaner when I bought it and just about empty, has anyone used anything else with similar success? or would getting the official one be the best bet?
I have recently bought that stuff but have not used it yet but I presume its really PBW :-\
I use pbw after most cleans.
The GF cleaner gets used now and again for a proper clean when I leave the water pumping through for over a half hour. The pbw works at a lower temp so it makes cleanup quicker.
One of the designers (guy who's in all the GF youtube videos) from iMake said PBW was fine on a Reddit AMA (https://www.reddit.com/r/IAmA/comments/2x0sxs/i_am_imker_swanepoel_industrial_designer_for_the/covw8mq/)
It's very rare I do more than clean it with more than hot water.
I'll try the PBW but I think it's definitely got crap lodged in there. I guess I'll try and break it down this weekend!
Run the tap full whack through it?
Or recirc using a glass bowl reservoir using pbw to see what comes out
Did a brew on the GF yesterday and ended up with 87.5% efficiency ... that's serious stuff. Over shot my numbers massively though ???
Those are typical numbers when crush is right and mid range abv
Quote from: CH on December 05, 2016, 01:11:07 PM
Those are typical numbers when crush is right and mid range abv
+1
Savage efficiencies on the GF
Same here,my efficiency is high :)
I've also found a bug on the new GF app if you're brewing using an imported recipe from BeerSmith.
I found that if the boil is more than 60 minutes (90 in my case yesterday) the app disregards any information before the 60 minute mark (i.e. the 90 minute hop addition) and starts to countdown from 60 minutes.
If you pause the timer to try and let the boil catch up with the app you lose all info of the session off the app. Kinda a nuisance as I was left scrambling to calculate times/additions on the fly.
I've flagged it with GF though, hopefully they will be able to squash the bug.
Hi all,
I did my first Grainfather brew at the weekend and it all went very smoothly until it came to chilling time. After attaching the chiller and recirculating for a few moments the pump stopped flowing and after several attempts to get it moving I had to abandon the brew and proceeded to jug out the wort to empty the boiler, the grain particles were very visible in the sample:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/720/30936871833_1cacb22a9f_m.jpg)
I did notice when the boil started that there seemed to be a lot of grain particles - certainly a lot more than I normally get. When I was emptying the boiler contents with a plastic jug I put a sieve in the sink and poured the wort through it to see how much was in the boil:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/763/30936871783_9d2c00bf91_m.jpg)
I took the pump filter off and there was hardly any grain inside so I'm guessing the grain passed through the filter. I also removed the ball lock and spring and there were no blockages there. After the boiler was emptied I blew down the chiller's wort output pipe and this did force out a little grain and a single hop flower so it seems as though the blockage was indeed in the chiller and not the pump. In fact I ran the pump without the recirculating arm or chiller attached and the liquid flow coming out was fine.
I'm not sure if this is related to grain crush, I used a mashkit that I got from HBC for this brew, maybe the grain crush was too fine for the GF. I do have a Crankandstein 2 roller mill that I can use to crush whole grains so would be interested to know what setting to use. There was only about 50g of hops in the brew, both in hop bags so I would be surprised if they caused an issue.
Despite having to abandon the brew I'm encouraged by the ease of use of the GF, up to the chilling stage it was a very relaxed session compared to my normal brewday with 3 vessels, pump etc.
I'm curious to know if you've experienced similar issues and if you know what might cause them!
Quote from: Níall on December 19, 2016, 05:15:08 PM
Hi all,
I did my first Grainfather brew at the weekend and it all went very smoothly until it came to chilling time. After attaching the chiller and recirculating for a few moments the pump stopped flowing and after several attempts to get it moving I had to abandon the brew and proceeded to jug out the wort to empty the boiler, the grain particles were very visible in the sample:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/720/30936871833_1cacb22a9f_m.jpg)
I did notice when the boil started that there seemed to be a lot of grain particles - certainly a lot more than I normally get. When I was emptying the boiler contents with a plastic jug I put a sieve in the sink and poured the wort through it to see how much was in the boil:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/763/30936871783_9d2c00bf91_m.jpg)
I took the pump filter off and there was hardly any grain inside so I'm guessing the grain passed through the filter. I also removed the ball lock and spring and there were no blockages there. After the boiler was emptied I blew down the chiller's wort output pipe and this did force out a little grain and a single hop flower so it seems as though the blockage was indeed in the chiller and not the pump. In fact I ran the pump without the recirculating arm or chiller attached and the liquid flow coming out was fine.
I'm not sure if this is related to grain crush, I used a mashkit that I got from HBC for this brew, maybe the grain crush was too fine for the GF. I do have a Crankandstein 2 roller mill that I can use to crush whole grains so would be interested to know what setting to use. There was only about 50g of hops in the brew, both in hop bags so I would be surprised if they caused an issue.
Despite having to abandon the brew I'm encouraged by the ease of use of the GF, up to the chilling stage it was a very relaxed session compared to my normal brewday with 3 vessels, pump etc.
I'm curious to know if you've experienced similar issues and if you know what might cause them!
I don't think it was the mash kit from HBC. I've brewed lots of these kits from HBC and have never had the problem you were having. There must have been some issues with the pump filter if a full hop flower was stuck inside. The perforations on the filter are so small that there is no way a hop cone could pass through it.
I'd concentrate my efforts at the filter.
Cheers Mick. Yeah, I was a bit puzzled how the hop flower made it that far as the pump filter seemed well secured and intact.
In terms of the grain particles getting into the boil is this something you've experienced? I did notice when the mash started that a lot of foam was produced and perhaps some grain went down the overflow, it was hard to see it clearly due to the foaming.
I've ordered a small mesh sink strainer to sit over the overflow pipe inlet, that should stop any grain getting through
I had similar problems, and found the blockage was occurring at the spring-loaded ball bearing just below the flow valve on the wort pipe after the pump. I took the ball bearing and spring out, and had no further problems.
That did cross my mind at the time, as it happens the spring and ball valve on mine were clear.
I'm wondering if something else may have caused this - I attached the chiller with a few minutes left and dropped the wort output hose into the boiling wort. With the lid on and the chiller sitting above it the boil rose very quickly and reached the lid before I killed the heat. I wonder if the lone hop leaf I found in the chiller could have got pushed up this hose from the vigorous boil as I can't see how it would have got through the pump filter. In any case I think I'll wait until the boil has finished next time before I attach the chiller.
When I used a different system I had a counterflow chiller with a 10mm pipe. I piece of hop pellet had not dissolved and so got sucked into the pipe and even my mighty chugger pump could not shift it so a bit of hop can cause a major blockage.
I don't attach the chiller until the boil is finished and record for 2 mins to sterilize. Not sure why you have so much crap getting through. It shouldn't be!!
Where is everyone getting the stainless steel sink strainer from. :-\
I'd put this down to a freak occurrence. As I said, I've done about 60 sessions on my Grainfather and the only issues I've had were knocking off the filter when stirring the wort. Other than that I've never had any real problems.
If it happens again I reckon you're doing something wrong or something isn't hooked up right but I'd chalk this one down to experience.
Quote from: DEMPSEY on December 20, 2016, 12:47:34 PM
Where is everyone getting the stainless steel sink strainer from. :-\
Where else but AliExpress ;)
Quote from: mick02 on December 20, 2016, 12:48:19 PM
I'd put this down to a freak occurrence. As I said, I've done about 60 sessions on my Grainfather and the only issues I've had were knocking off the filter when stirring the wort. Other than that I've never had any real problems.
If it happens again I reckon you're doing something wrong or something isn't hooked up right but I'd chalk this one down to experience.
Hopefully that's the case, I plan on brewing again between Christmas and New Year so will have a better idea then if it was a once off.
Anyone using the hop spiders we bought on the group buy and if so what do they think of them.
I've used mine twice, I did a weissbier and a half batch IPA with the micro pipe work.
There appeared to be a layer of flour on top of the pellet mush at the end of the boil, dunno how this behaved during the boil though.
Used my new sink stopper to stop any bits of grain going down the overflow pipe, great little idea and I recommend it highly.
And I thought I was finished spending. I just bought 3 now on Ebay. http://www.ebay.ie/itm/18CF-63mm-Silver-Tone-Stainless-Steel-Wire-Mesh-Tea-Leaves-Spice-Strainer-Basket-/322333113909?var=511238373486
Here is the Grainfather Equipment profile that works.
And of course you have to do this as well,
QuoteGrainfather Profile for BeerSmith V2.3
Water to Grain ratio should be set at 2.7L/kg when selecting a mash profile
Default grain absorption should be changed in the Beersmith Advanced settings (tools->options->advanced). The default setting is 0.96 fl oz/oz. This will need to be changed to 0.7669 fl oz/oz (0.8 L/kg) to line up exactly with the Grainfather official calulations
Quote from: Níall on December 20, 2016, 02:25:42 PM
Quote from: mick02 on December 20, 2016, 12:48:19 PM
I'd put this down to a freak occurrence. As I said, I've done about 60 sessions on my Grainfather and the only issues I've had were knocking off the filter when stirring the wort. Other than that I've never had any real problems.
If it happens again I reckon you're doing something wrong or something isn't hooked up right but I'd chalk this one down to experience.
Hopefully that's the case, I plan on brewing again between Christmas and New Year so will have a better idea then if it was a once off.
I brewed again over Christmas and this time I had no issues with the pump. I did however include almost 20% porridge oats in the grist and went with a single infusion mash which made for a stuck sparge, much lifting of the top plate, stirring of the mash and a little swearing. I did wonder whether a Beta Glucan rest might be worthwhile with such a high percentage of oats and I got my answer, so that's a lesson learned. Ultimately the wort got into the fermenter so we'll see how this turns out.
Has anyone else had any issues with their malt pipe (grain basket) ?
Mine has become mis-shapen so now when I put the perforated plate into the basket the rubber seal always comes off.
I can see that the basket is no longer perfectly round so it's causing these issues. It's a pain in my arse every brew day
Has it taken a bang maybe?
No issues here. They do recommend that if you are having trouble fitting the plate then to use some of the brewing flour from the grain crush to make the sides slippy :)
It had a small fall but I wouldn't have thought enough to cause it to become misshapen.
There are a few dings on the outside alright.
This is severe enough that brewing flour or water are not sufficient.
Post a few pics maybe?
Mind had a very light fall recently, landed on the upper lip which bent in but doesn't affect it's performance thankfully.
I'll try get some pics when I get home. It's not very easy to see from the pic though. If I put the perforated plate (without the seal) in the basket you should be able to see the problem.
Lads on the GF group on Facebook recommend spraying the silicone ring with starsan to help ease it in. I've never had any issues
This is definitely more than a snug fit, the basket is warped. I'll post pics when I get a chance
Anyone here use the sparge heater? Worth it?
I do,it was €100 nicker but I thought that the grainfather was lonely without it ;D. It give you just enough water for the sparge so its fine. I would recommend that you fill it and switch it on the same time you start the boil as it takes a long enough time to reach 75C.
Quote from: DEMPSEY on January 04, 2017, 10:37:29 PM
I do,it was €100 nicker but I thought that the grainfather was lonely without it ;D. It give you just enough water for the sparge so its fine. I would recommend that you fill it and switch it on the same time you start the boil as it takes a long enough time to reach 75C.
You mean switch it on when you start the mash right? >:D
Eeh,yeah,wot he said :-[ :D :D
As Homers would say, Doh :D
I've taken to cold sparging now....
Quote from: Pheeel on January 05, 2017, 06:58:58 PM
I've taken to cold sparging now....
Really? Is there any benefits to it?
It probably slows down your ramp upto boil post mashout though.
Means one less step, even though it increases the length of another step as you said.
Do you first do a Mash out temp. Gotta stop them enzymes in their tracks. ???
Cold sparging does taking longer to get to a boil on an individual beer but I have a Grainbrother too so I'm trying to ramp up to boil doesn't matter too much as I need to wait for the mash for the other one anyway. Also I'm probably kegging beer at the same time too so need to clean FVs and kegs and keg beers so any spare time helps!!
Quote from: DEMPSEY on January 05, 2017, 08:27:30 PM
Do you first do a Mash out temp. Gotta stop them enzymes in their tracks. ???
Are you mashing out?, The reason you mash out at 74-76 is as Mr Dempsey says is to kill enzyme activity and preserve your fermentable sugar profile, you will also loose a couple of percentage points from sugars still on the husk that you haven't rinsed off at higher temp but tbh that's probably marginal.
I have had a look at this now and I see you have found the secret method to brewing a NEIPA. The cold water sparge will bring more break material over making the final beer more cloudy,it may also help with head retention so lots of suds :).
Sometimes mash out, sometimes don't. I often jack the GF up to boil when sparging so that should kill any activity 😀
Er need to mash out grains not wort
Just to be certain, by mashing out you mean when you jack the temp up to 75 after your 60min mash. Then leave it for 15mins approx before raising the basket.
I'm working on a grainfather ep of ICB show and don't want any stupid mistakes.
Sent from my phone, please excuse the typos.
Yep that's exactly it. The higher temperature stops the enzymes converting the sugar any further and 'locks in' the sugar content achieved at that point.
Well I picked up my grainfather today and just finished cleaning it. Super happy with the decision. Just need to get the micro pipe work and jacket next.
So as not so confused matters but once you add water to grainfather you begin the wonderful magic of washing out the starch sugars and the enzymes and they are now in the water so by leaving the wort at a temp below 78C will level the enzymes still active. When the mash is complete you can raise the mash temp to mash out then you have sealed the fate of the enzymes. You can then take your time cold sparking if you want but it will take longer to get to boil.
Dempsey. When you say cold sparging, could you just use water direct from the tap to sparge?
To work a brew around family etc. I usually mash at night and boil in the morning so getting to the boil isn't an issue.
Adding direct from tap and you are bringing in all that lovely chlorine
Water Additions? Aghh
Ah yes, I forgot about that!
I wasn't recommending cold sparking only commenting on someone else doing it. Water treatment would still need to be a must.
Fooking predict text >:(
If you are on a well you don't need to worry about chlorine and if the ph of your tap water is below 6 you don't have to treat your sparge water ( read this somewhere so open to correction on this )
PH is not much of an issue as the main reason you want a PH around 5.2/ 5.4 is in the mashing period to help the enzymes work without hurting them. your last sparge running's should be in around 6.0 PH or you might be washing out some harsh stuff.
Quote from: mick02 on January 04, 2017, 09:06:30 PM
This is definitely more than a snug fit, the basket is warped. I'll post pics when I get a chance
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170109/f93512712a4e0c22d1104ad8b7ba0c71.jpg)
As discussed... It's hard to see from the pic but at 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock on the plate you can see a small gap. Doesn't look like much there but it's a pain in the ass trying to fit the plate in.
Can't see it tbh but if you wet it before insertion should slide easy enough
That's what she said last night ...
Quote from: CH on January 10, 2017, 11:46:25 AM
Can't see it tbh but if you wet it before insertion should slide easy enough
Nope, I've tried water, the flour from the mashed grain, everything. The basket is warped.
Whay hay
Have you tried rolling it out of it on carpet?
Did it come that way or was it sat on
It had a small fall but nothing bad enough that should have caused this. I'll give it a roll and see if I can get it back to its original shape
Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk
Those tubes are probably under stress as in if you chopped down one side it would ping out.
thinking about it, it may be better on a flat surface so you could see where or if it was out?
You may be able to get it tapped out at a Panel beaters or eng works?
Whatever you decide do it slowly and roll or insert mesh after each alteration.
Worst case scenario you can buy a replacement malt pipe. Hopefully the rolling works!
Gotta say this grainfather is so easy to use it am very happy with it. I brewed today and from crushed grains to pitched yeast to completely washed up and put away,all in 5 hours. And I did meself a fry for lunch in between :) :). Also my numbers match in with my beersmith too.
Quote from: DEMPSEY on January 10, 2017, 04:50:34 PM
Gotta say this grainfather is so easy to use it am very happy with it. I brewed today and from crushed grains to pitched yeast to completely washed up and put away,all in 5 hours. And I did meself a fry for lunch in between :) :). Also my numbers match in with my beersmith too.
I have to agree, my efficiency is excellent and I'm nearly always within 1 or two points of the numbers in beersmith. Great piece of equipment.
Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk
Android Grainfather Connect app was updated today in Play store. Updates include improvements in importing BeerXML files and an increase of compatible apps to import from (Gmail attachments was one that was mentioned)
I cannot see why I would bother with the Bluetooth upgrade yoke for grainfather. All it appears to be able to do is allow you to sit watching telly while the mash is on.
Isn't that enough of a reason? :)
It's a great piece of kit, brewing with it right now,while making dinner, doing the bins, drawing with kids, feeding the dogs ....
Just round in Fishjams, it's like fast food, he just dials in and it's delivered
That's impressive.
Quote from: CH on January 13, 2017, 05:47:06 PM
Just round in Fishjams, it's like like food, he just dials in and it's delivered
And I never got to show you how it operates via your phone either
So it washes then :P
Started a brew today (Habenero IPA), had grain crushed , mash water heated and suddenly realised my overflow pipe was missing. Hopefully it turns up. Luckily I'd a bit of copper pipe in my shed so some hacksawing and filing a had a sort of replacement. Didn't grip like the real one so had to cut it exactly to the length of my grain bill. In the end went too short and had to pull about 700 grams from a 6kg grain bill. Almost met my gravity though .
Homebrewers are Mcguyvers through and through, nice save
Thinking of buying one of these and I have a question.
I currently BIAB in a 33 litre pot - not so far off Grainfather capacity when you knock some capacity off for the lid etc.
The standard mash water formula for the GF is Grain Weight x 2.7 + 3.5 so, for a 4.5kg batch this would be 15.65 litres of strike water. I would normally use 26 litres with a batch that size then dunk sparge with about 5 litres.
So - why wouldn't I continue doing this in the Grainfather, obviously adjusting for capacity?
Grain to water ratio in recircs is anywhere between 3-5l per kilo, 7 for biab, I've done 3 and 6 and there is marginal difference in total efficiency (more efficient high side) or on taste.
The grainfather numbers are correct and when you add your sparge you will end up with 28 liters before boil.
Grainfather users, do you get any flour back into the kettle after mash in ? i.e. any flour seep through the bottom filter plate and into the wort.
Thanks
I've found it sitting on top of grain bed after sparging alright.
I have been wondering if the flour has been clogging my group buy hop spider, anybody else find this?
When cleaning up after brewing the small holes appear to be blocked by flour - not good if your using a lot of hops!! When you lift the spider the liquid is only trickling out of it.
Anyone else have this issue?
No flour for me. The clarity on the wort is excellent!
Don't have a grainfather, but I find my hop spider drains very slowly after a boil - most of the holes get fairly blocked with protein break and goop. Doesn't seem t effect the hoppiness of my beers though, so doesn't bother me.
Would like to give it a caustic wash or something every few batches to get all the crud off though - it's changing a funny colour over time.
High pressure hose gets rid of any crap out of mine
I got sick of cleaning the spider so just stopped using one - with pellets. Works out fine with the new GF filter and a whirlpool.
Hey folks,
I've attached the BrewDog.xml file for importing into the GrainFather connect app (thanks @brazune)
It has all the recipes that were released by Brewdog last year.
The forum won't let me upload xml files so you will have to rename it from txt to xml
Mick
When I imported that it just shows hoppy Christmas in my imported files.
You're right, it's a bug in the android app I think. I imported it into the iPhone app and it worked a treat.
ah shite. Ok cheers!
How do I actually do that?
Quote from: Roo on January 28, 2017, 08:59:55 AM
How do I actually do that?
Do what Roo? Import it into the iPhone app? You need to save it to Dropbox or similar, then open the file on the iPhone then select export then choose the GrainFather connect app and it should import all the recipes
I get as far as export and the option for grainfather app doesn't appear
Quote from: Roo on January 28, 2017, 02:34:22 PM
I get as far as export and the option for grainfather app doesn't appear
It's there not an "open with" option? Click that and choose grainfather
Not on my phone there isn't. I hate technology....either that or I don't understand it.
Look what's coming ...
Oh "unthankyou" you bugger
I need one of these!!!
:)
More shiny?
Always room for that!!
God knows much it'll cost though
Its what every GF owner NEEDS plus there will be a glycol pump to buy as well! Probably a compressor/chiller unit as well - Oh happy expensive days to come.
If I stop drinking I could afford this!
Err maybe not the best idea
https://youtu.be/912DKxD0H1U
It'll be stupid money and while I have being known to be stupid from time to time I am not stupid all the time. :D
400 USD apparently. An 600 for the Glycol chiller.
I don't need it but I want it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I see that Grainfather have dumped their android app developers and are starting to develop their android app from scratch. http://us8.campaign-archive2.com/?u=ccba2b8b21c27d9056584bbcb&id=7b62cea9ea
I have an Android phone and an iPhone (for work) and the iPhone app is head and shoulders above the Android app for the GF connect. Hopefully they'll get things sorted out sooner rather than later. Fair play to them for starting from scratch rather than hobble along with a sub standard product.
That's iOS for you
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: jawalemon on February 23, 2017, 12:03:53 AM
That's iOS for you
You mean better than the rest? Good android apps are just as good as iOS and bad iOS is just as bad as bad android (man that's a tongue twister).
Quote from: mick02 on February 22, 2017, 08:20:33 PM
I see that Grainfather have dumped their android app developers and are starting to develop their android app from scratch. http://us8.campaign-archive2.com/?u=ccba2b8b21c27d9056584bbcb&id=7b62cea9ea
I have an Android phone and an iPhone (for work) and the iPhone app is head and shoulders above the Android app for the GF connect. Hopefully they'll get things sorted out sooner rather than later. Fair play to them for starting from scratch rather than hobble along with a sub standard product.
I did ask them for access to the API but they told me it was proprietary. However, it would not be the first time I've hacked a Bluetooth Smart protocol...
http://brew.grainfather.com/
A new web portal for creating and sharing recipes
Yeah I had a look at it this morning.
There seems to be some bugs signing in through the connect app that they are working on.
I got to sign in and register via their Facebook page.
It should be a good resource when it's up and running 🏃🏻
Must say that one of the best features of the new recipe portal is that you can select which BJCP category you are going for and the report shows you whether you are hitting the targets for OG, FG, IBU, EBC and ABV (clue, you want to get a green line in the black "range bars" in the Style Information sidebar)
You can do that in BeerSmith as well though yeah with a grainfather equipment profile?
Can you upload shared methods like rests etc to the controller?
Quote from: CH on March 17, 2017, 09:42:56 AM
You can do that in BeerSmith as well though yeah with a grainfather equipment profile?
Can you upload shared methods like rests etc to the controller?
If you export a Beersmith recipe to beerxml and import it to the grain father it will bring across the mash profile but it ignores the beersmith mash water and sparge water calculations and substitutes it's own based on their calculations.
I know this post has been dead for a while but i thought it was best to post here just to keep all information in the one spot. I took the plunge today and ordered The Grainfather so can't wait to shave a few hours off brew day and make it a simpler process over all. Just wondering what the best Beersmith profile to use as of now, all of the profiles listed here have been deleted. Hoping there isn't a massive learning curve with this as I've just about got a handle on my old system of what it can and can't do. Am I better experimenting on a simple brew or dive straight in? Got it from the Homebrew Company so its coming with a mash kit (American Wit) or do I go ahead with my planned Triple Karmeliet clone which has stepped mashing. My efficiency is around 70-72% at present as I don't crush my own grains, will there be a big jump in efficiency with the Grainfather?
Any other tips or tricks and invaluable information you've picked up using this would be really appreciated. Thanks.
Quote from: aaronm13 on March 06, 2018, 04:24:30 PM
I know this post has been dead for a while but i thought it was best to post here just to keep all information in the one spot. I took the plunge today and ordered The Grainfather so can't wait to shave a few hours off brew day and make it a simpler process over all. Just wondering what the best Beersmith profile to use as of now, all of the profiles listed here have been deleted. Hoping there isn't a massive learning curve with this as I've just about got a handle on my old system of what it can and can't do. Am I better experimenting on a simple brew or dive straight in? Got it from the Homebrew Company so its coming with a mash kit (American Wit) or do I go ahead with my planned Triple Karmeliet clone which has stepped mashing. My efficiency is around 70-72% at present as I don't crush my own grains, will there be a big jump in efficiency with the Grainfather?
Any other tips or tricks and invaluable information you've picked up using this would be really appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Aaron,
Apparently the equipment profile for the Grainfather in Beersmith is meant to be almost spot on. If you aren't adept at using Beersmith perhaps using the grainfather website might be easier to get to grips with https://brew.grainfather.com
I've ditched the oul BeerSmith and went full on the Grainfather app and recipe builder
Thanks Mick, I'll check that out so. I really like using Beersmith so would like to keep using it. I'll do comparisons with water volumes and probably air on the side of caution if they're way out.
What about the hop filter on the pump is this ok on its own or would you need a spider or hop bags? Especially doing a really hoppy beer, is clogging a problem. I have a spider but for some reason prefer throwing them in loose.
Quote from: aaronm13 on March 06, 2018, 05:44:47 PM
Thanks Mick, I'll check that out so. I really like using Beersmith so would like to keep using it. I'll do comparisons with water volumes and probably air on the side of caution if they're way out.
What about the hop filter on the pump is this ok on its own or would you need a spider or hop bags? Especially doing a really hoppy beer, is clogging a problem. I have a spider but for some reason prefer throwing them in loose.
Hey Aaron,
Don't get me started with the filter >:D (
It is good for lightly hopped beers but if you're hopping aggressively I would suggest getting a hop spider or some nylon bags.
Quote from: mick02 on March 06, 2018, 06:10:49 PM
Quote from: aaronm13 on March 06, 2018, 05:44:47 PM
Thanks Mick, I'll check that out so. I really like using Beersmith so would like to keep using it. I'll do comparisons with water volumes and probably air on the side of caution if they're way out.
What about the hop filter on the pump is this ok on its own or would you need a spider or hop bags? Especially doing a really hoppy beer, is clogging a problem. I have a spider but for some reason prefer throwing them in loose.
Hey Aaron,
Don't get me started with the filter >:D (
It is good for lightly hopped beers but if you're hopping aggressively I would suggest getting a hop spider or some nylon bags.
Ha, so it's that good? I do have a spider so might just have to use it and maybe recirculate through it to get everything out of the hops. I've just done a Pliny the elder clone so don't reckon it would handle all those hops.
Quote from: aaronm13 on March 06, 2018, 08:50:36 PM
Quote from: mick02 on March 06, 2018, 06:10:49 PM
Quote from: aaronm13 on March 06, 2018, 05:44:47 PM
Thanks Mick, I'll check that out so. I really like using Beersmith so would like to keep using it. I'll do comparisons with water volumes and probably air on the side of caution if they're way out.
What about the hop filter on the pump is this ok on its own or would you need a spider or hop bags? Especially doing a really hoppy beer, is clogging a problem. I have a spider but for some reason prefer throwing them in loose.
Hey Aaron,
Don't get me started with the filter >:D (
It is good for lightly hopped beers but if you're hopping aggressively I would suggest getting a hop spider or some nylon bags.
Ha, so it's that good? I do have a spider so might just have to use it and maybe recirculate through it to get everything out of the hops. I've just done a Pliny the elder clone so don't reckon it would handle all those hops.
The filter is actually good but the design is terrible. In the last 3 brews I've knocked the filter off twice just by stirring the wort and in the last brew the rubber cap at the end disappeared rendering the filter effectively useless! I'm going back to the old filter. I've done a Pliny clone on the Grainfather before... You're right, it won't handle all those hops.
Quote from: mick02 on March 06, 2018, 08:53:22 PM
Quote from: aaronm13 on March 06, 2018, 08:50:36 PM
Quote from: mick02 on March 06, 2018, 06:10:49 PM
Quote from: aaronm13 on March 06, 2018, 05:44:47 PM
Thanks Mick, I'll check that out so. I really like using Beersmith so would like to keep using it. I'll do comparisons with water volumes and probably air on the side of caution if they're way out.
What about the hop filter on the pump is this ok on its own or would you need a spider or hop bags? Especially doing a really hoppy beer, is clogging a problem. I have a spider but for some reason prefer throwing them in loose.
Hey Aaron,
Don't get me started with the filter >:D (
It is good for lightly hopped beers but if you're hopping aggressively I would suggest getting a hop spider or some nylon bags.
Ha, so it's that good? I do have a spider so might just have to use it and maybe recirculate through it to get everything out of the hops. I've just done a Pliny the elder clone so don't reckon it would handle all those hops.
The filter is actually good but the design is terrible. In the last 3 brews I've knocked the filter off twice just by stirring the wort and in the last brew the rubber cap at the end disappeared rendering the filter effectively useless! I'm going back to the old filter. I've done a Pliny clone on the Grainfather before... You're right, it won't handle all those hops.
I'll look out for that filter problem so.
As a counterpoint, I've done some 300g hop monsters in it with the included filter and had no bother. Runoff is slow, but it's always slow I find anyway.
Quote from: molc on March 06, 2018, 10:01:42 PM
As a counterpoint, I've done some 300g hop monsters in it with the included filter and had no bother. Runoff is slow, but it's always slow I find anyway.
Do you use pellet or leaf Molc? I've personally found that the filter copes better with leaf than pellet
Quote from: mick02 on March 06, 2018, 06:10:49 PM
Quote from: aaronm13 on March 06, 2018, 05:44:47 PM
Thanks Mick, I'll check that out so. I really like using Beersmith so would like to keep using it. I'll do comparisons with water volumes and probably air on the side of caution if they're way out.
What about the hop filter on the pump is this ok on its own or would you need a spider or hop bags? Especially doing a really hoppy beer, is clogging a problem. I have a spider but for some reason prefer throwing them in loose.
Hey Aaron,
Don't get me started with the filter >:D (
It is good for lightly hopped beers but if you're hopping aggressively I would suggest getting a hop spider or some nylon bags.
so stir slowly :D.
you know I once went to the doctor and said when I lift my arm it hurts. he said so don't lift your arm.
Quote from: DEMPSEY on March 06, 2018, 10:08:22 PM
Quote from: mick02 on March 06, 2018, 06:10:49 PM
Quote from: aaronm13 on March 06, 2018, 05:44:47 PM
Thanks Mick, I'll check that out so. I really like using Beersmith so would like to keep using it. I'll do comparisons with water volumes and probably air on the side of caution if they're way out.
What about the hop filter on the pump is this ok on its own or would you need a spider or hop bags? Especially doing a really hoppy beer, is clogging a problem. I have a spider but for some reason prefer throwing them in loose.
I was stirring very slowly ... I just think that filter is shite now. After three beers messed up because of the filter I'm not best pleased
Hey Aaron,
Don't get me started with the filter >:D (
It is good for lightly hopped beers but if you're hopping aggressively I would suggest getting a hop spider or some nylon bags.
so stir slowly :D.
you know I once went to the doctor and said when I lift my arm it hurts. he said so don't lift your arm.
Quote from: mick02 on March 06, 2018, 10:18:31 PM
Quote from: DEMPSEY on March 06, 2018, 10:08:22 PM
Quote from: mick02 on March 06, 2018, 06:10:49 PM
Quote from: aaronm13 on March 06, 2018, 05:44:47 PM
Thanks Mick, I'll check that out so. I really like using Beersmith so would like to keep using it. I'll do comparisons with water volumes and probably air on the side of caution if they're way out.
What about the hop filter on the pump is this ok on its own or would you need a spider or hop bags? Especially doing a really hoppy beer, is clogging a problem. I have a spider but for some reason prefer throwing them in loose.
I was stirring very slowly ... I just think that filter is shite now. After three beers messed up because of the filter I'm not best pleased
Hey Aaron,
Don't get me started with the filter >:D (
It is good for lightly hopped beers but if you're hopping aggressively I would suggest getting a hop spider or some nylon bags.
so stir slowly :D.
you know I once went to the doctor and said when I lift my arm it hurts. he said so don't lift your arm.
Sound advice my good man.
Quote from: mick02 on March 06, 2018, 10:04:44 PM
Quote from: molc on March 06, 2018, 10:01:42 PM
As a counterpoint, I've done some 300g hop monsters in it with the included filter and had no bother. Runoff is slow, but it's always slow I find anyway.
Do you use pellet or leaf Molc? I've personally found that the filter copes better with leaf than pellet
Yeah leaf is good for filtering. It's about the only way it's preferable. It's like using rice hulls to prevent a stuck mash. But you can do a little bit of leaf and alot of pellets and it'll filter just fine.
When only using pellets I find if I have to scrape the filter once towards the end of transfer and it'll finish fine.
Thought I had responded to this. Pellet only in my case.
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
Got my Grainfather. It's an impressive piece of kit. Cleaned it out last night and am doing a test boil, or trying to at least. Feckin thing won't go above 98 degrees. Really not happy with this at all. It's bubbling away nicely but confirmed temperatures with my Thermapen. Am I doing something wrong here? I boil outside on my balcony but it isn't even cold today. I brewed last Friday in the snow and my Buffalo boiler got a boil no problem. Hope I don't have to bite the bullet and get in insulation jacket, would this help me reach a boil? Hoping to do a brew next weekend but not confident now at all if I can't reach a boil. If I've to transfer over to my Buffalo it defeats the purpose of an all in one system.
Are you on high ground, well above sea level?
The boil temperature can be changed in the app, have a play with the settings.
Quote from: fishjam45 (Colin) on March 10, 2018, 01:50:48 PM
Are you on high ground, well above sea level?
The boil temperature can be changed in the app, have a play with the settings.
In Dublin, around 75 meters above sea level and live in a first floor apartment so nothing major. I lost a good 4 litres while on for around 90 minutes so it seems to be boiling but won't go above the 98 degrees. It's pretty frustrating. If I can find that setting should I drop my boil temperature to 98?
Yep
Temp is being measured at the bottom. The top section is boiling but if your doing outside any wind will take lots of heat away. Try it inside as an experiment. If you are going to keep it outside you do need that coat
Quote from: Boycott on March 11, 2018, 09:41:22 AM
Temp is being measured at the bottom. The top section is boiling but if your doing outside any wind will take lots of heat away. Try it inside as an experiment. If you are going to keep it outside you do need that coat
I brought it inside just to check and it got to 99 degrees and verified with my Thermapen. I have to boil outside so might just have to bite the bullet and get the coat.
Is it super important that it hits 100? I mean you say its bubbling away and you lost 4 liters in 90 mins. Surely that's all you need.
Quote from: armedcor on March 11, 2018, 05:00:38 PM
Is it super important that it hits 100? I mean you say its bubbling away and you lost 4 liters in 90 mins. Surely that's all you need.
That's what I'm not sure about, I was always under the impression that 100 degrees was boiling point. It was definitely bubbling away nicely and lost a good few litres of water. Is 98 or 99 degrees an acceptable temperature to hit?
The cable connector from my element melted into the bottom of the old controller box. I've bought the new controller but I'll need to replace the connector. Does anyone know are these generally available in hardware stores? Grange Electrical, B&Q, Woodies.
Maplins was suggested to me but I'm hoping to pick one up more local (Dublin 5).
Also is there a name for the part I'm looking for so that someone in Maplin or a hardware would know what I want?
(https://image.ibb.co/fResQS/IMG_20180318_WA0010.jpg)
If you've an old PC you could probably use the one out of it?
Quote from: mick02 on March 26, 2018, 03:09:25 PM
If you've an old PC you could probably use the one out of it?
Good idea. Never occurred to me that they were the same type but now that you say it
What you want is a c15/c16 iec connector. The problem with old one is that it was probably a c13/c14 connector which isn't rated for heat use. The c15/c16 connectors have a notch on them to differentiate between them.
Thanks. do all modern kettles come with c15/c16 connectors? Is that the easiest way to get one?
Just heard my Glycol Chiller is on its way (10 months later)...
Finished my third brew with the Grainfather yesterday and really like it but one major thing is bothering me and it's the water volumes. The volumes yesterday were pretty bad. I use Beersmith for design but use the Grainfather app for water volume. Long story, I was aiming for 25 liters into the fermenter. According to the app my pre boil volume should be 27 litres and I got 29 and there was easily another litre in the bucket I put the grain basket into when I finished sparging. I didn't throw this into the boil as I thought I had loads. Going by Beersmith my pre boil gravity should be 1.054 but was actually 1.061, no problem there. Have efficiency set to 75 so just need to boost that. Anyway I was left with only 24 litres at the end of the boil.
So I'm starting the boil with too much volume and finishing with too little. Really can't understand this. I can boost my initial volumes to yield more at the end of the boil but gravity will suffer or decrease my initial volumes but will be left with even less. Each solution is cancelling out the other. Has anyone come across this?
Used my grain mill on this for the first time too and think it was too fine of a crush as the sparge took well over an hour and the mash was constantly over flowing so I had to monitor it constantly and turn the.pump off every now and then. I set the mill to a credit card thickness but I double crushed them, grain was fairly well milled after this. What's the ideal mill gap setting for the Grainfather, definitely going wider and won't be double crushing them. Efficiency was great but sparge length was rediculous and I think having to turn the pump off every now and then defeats the.purpose.
You can adjust your Beersmith boil off, grain absorption, and efficiency values to what you are getting.
Sparging should never take that long. When I start sparging the wort is ramping to a boil and I'm normally finished sparging by the time it gets to 90°. Most of the time it flies through but if it's slow because you've a load of wheat or whatever you can scrape the bottom of the grain basket a bit with your paddle to get it running. You've no problem with efficiency so may as well get it done quickly. Sounds like there's no need to double crush your grain. Credit card width is fine.
Thanks Simon. The first 2 batches I did the sparge took no more than 20 minutes, these were pre crushed grains. It was my first time using the mill and a lot of the grains didn't look crushed at al which is why I ran them through again. Won't make that mistake again.
Adjusting the boil off and grain absorption is fine but surely this will only increase my original volumes, as it is I'm getting too much back. Really has me baffled.
When you reach the boil do you scale back power or leave it at 100%? I scaled mine back to 90% yesterday.
So I think your grain absorption is lower than you've set because your preboil volume is higher than expected. Your boil off is greater than you have set because you've ended with less post boil. Or your dead space value is wrong or a combination? Does that make sense?
All the grain or nearly all should be cracked after 1 run through the mill. You might just have to play with it to get how you like
Think there's a bit of trial and error with it alright. A good excuse to brew more. The grain was like flour in fairness going into the mash, so definitely too fine.