What do people add to their water in Dublin for hoppy styles?
Eustace well
I'm thinking of boiling it the day before then adding 2% of acid malt to the grain bill and tsp of calcium chloride and gypsum per 5 gallons of water for mashing
You probably don't need the acid malt unless your ph is high, I never had that problem. I have added some Epsom salts before usually around 5g
What is high? Mine always comes out around 5.6...
Have you a breakdown of your water?
I wouldn't just add salts etc unless I know exactly what the water was. I'm using EZ water spreadsheet which is super helpful.
Each brew is different pH wise so it really helps. My last beer I required 15g calcium 5g Epsom salts and only 50g of acid malt. The brew before that was a red and didn't need any acid malt.
Ph is affected by the type of grain your using, more dark grains and the ph goes lower. You want to keep it between 5.2 and 5.6.
There is a water profile in the capital Brewers section, can't link it at the moment but it's called dublin City center water profile it's probably on the second page.
I used the dublin profile on beoir and used my bicarbonate and ph readings. We checked the calcium another time and that was the same
If there's a bunch of you on the same supply, why not get 50ml analysed by Murphys? Split the e40 cost.
Quote from: winstonia on April 05, 2015, 08:53:00 AM
What do people add to their water in Dublin for hoppy styles?
Eustace well
I'm thinking of boiling it the day before then adding 2% of acid malt to the grain bill and tsp of calcium chloride and gypsum per 5 gallons of water for mashing
I'm in Wicklow but thats exactly what I do more or less. I use 1/2 tsp for the calcium chloride though and 1 to 1.5 tsp of gypsum for hoppier styles. If the beer has 2% or more roasted malt I don't bother with the acid malt. If it has absolutely no crystal I move the acid up to 2.5%-%3. This has worked out well for me and gives me consistent mash PH of 5.3/5.4. If its a malt forward beer sometimes I completely leave out the gypsum too.
Its not the most scientifically accurate method in the world and I have had beers I percieved as too gypsummy when I was figuring this out. That cleared up a bit with age though IIRC. I found 2tsp of gypsum to be the absolute limit before it starts tasting funny.
Thats just my experience and I did have some old water reports a friend had gotten to start me off with a vague idea where I needed additions.
If I boil the water the night before brewday will that make a difference to what I should be adding
Guys, you're shooting in the dark without water analysis.
There is a water analysis, but I was wondering if boiling the night before will mess up any online calculators?
QuoteCalcium: 20.00 ppm
Sulfate: 35.00 ppm
Magnesium: 1.50 ppm
Chloride: 25.00 ppm
Sodium: 12.00 ppm
Bicarbonate: 32.00 ppm
PH: 6.80
How do I use this calculator?
http://www.brewersfriend.com/water-chemistry/
Add the values in and?
Boiling WILL alter your water profile. CaCO3 is going to drop out.
Cheers,
For the calculator I listed, is there a bog standard amounts I can enter for beer styles?
Going with what yooper has listed here
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=502259
http://www.ezwatercalculator.com
This is the calculator I use and the one that seems most recommended on HBT etc.
As far as specific water styles I can't help. I just get my values within Palmers recommended ranges and leave it at that.
I use the calc below. It has general beer styles you can choose. http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/water.php
Just remember its not the water's pH thats important, its the pH of the mash!
Knowing your brewing liquors pH is important but the malt bill is equally important!