I was lucky enough to get a free keg with holes already drilled and top removed. All I had to do was clean it up, and get the fittings.
I was thinking about having the valve etc. welded on, but then I came across these: https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/stainless-steel-kettle-weldless-bulkhead-12-npt-p-2562.html
Any advantages or disadvantages of using them?
Just saw this: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-2-Weldless-Bulkhead-with-Valve-Barb-homeebrew-beer-kettle-pot/32320415656.html
Anyone using one?
I hear ya. I have a small kettle with welded joint and I'm pretty happy with it. The weldless setup appealed to me because I didn't have to go to get it welded, but you are right it's worth it in the long run.
I have hlt, mllt and bk fitted with weldless bulkheads.
The all work fine and leak free.....USUALLY. I check the seal every time before I brew. But it has happened that a leak occurs, usually a small drop which disappears when everything gets hot.
I would prefer if they were welded but it works for me and I can break it down for a good cleaning if required
well you all have me convinced. Welding is the way to go! Where would I get a non-weldless version of this: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-2-Weldless-Bulkhead-with-Valve-Barb-homeebrew-beer-kettle-pot/32320415656.html
There's nothing wrong with weldless valves :)
Using 2 converted kegs + side glass & extra valve for whirpool, no welds, no leaks.
Use silicone o-rings and test it before u brew for the 1st fime. Simple as that.
Quote from: Jacob on April 27, 2015, 10:35:03 PM
There's nothing wrong with weldless valves :)
Using 2 converted kegs + side glass & extra valve for whirpool, no welds, no leaks.
Use silicone o-rings and test it before u brew for the 1st fime. Simple as that.
Ditto on the weldless valves. I have a mashtun with a bottom drain, a HLT with a ball valve and a sight glass as well as a boiler with a sight glass and a ball valve. My boiler also two heating elements that are attached via compression fittings.
Shanna
Down ur plumbing shop e.g. m&a heating they will giv u any fitting u want in brass r ss. About the same price as alixpress. Beware dubious ss parts on sale out there in local shops
I used a brass bulk head from b&q and silicon washer with a 3 piece tap from eBay. Only had a slight leak but that's gone the last few brews
I'm guessing he's talking about these babies (http://www.ebay.ie/itm/HE4830-4ft-3000-watt-3-Kilowatt-DRY-ROD-HEATING-ELEMENT-/130404428907?pt=UK_BOI_Restaurant_RL&hash=item1e5cb5ac6b) O0
I used them here (http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/forum/index.php/topic,2717.msg33151.html#msg33151).
I also have two elements from the cheap Argos kettles in it and they've never leaked.
Quote from: mrmeindl on April 28, 2015, 01:32:19 PM
Quote from: Shanna on April 27, 2015, 10:53:21 PM
[My boiler also two heating elements that are attached via compression fittings.
Shanna
Any chance you could take a pic of the compression fittings on the elements & the element itself?
it's a hassle to take them apart so I won't post exactly what I have installed. However I have a pair of near identical spares that I will photo & post later on if I get time. I got them originally in my local builder suppliers & a pair of replacement spares from a reseller on Amazon. This is the link I got them from but it's showing as unavailable.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/First4Spares-Universal-Kettle-Heating-Element/dp/B00E4L86K2
They basically have a pair of silicone rings. One goes inside the kettle & the other outside the kettle wall. The electrical element is threaded & sticks through a hole in the kettle wall 38mm in diameter. There is a threaded plastic cowl that screws over the heating element & compresses the silicone rings & forms a water tight seal.
Shanna
Picture of stripped down element as promised.
Shanna