• Welcome to National Homebrew Club Ireland. Please login or sign up.
May 20, 2025, 06:45:39 PM

News:

Renewing ? Its fast and easy - just pay here
Not a forum user? Now you can join the discussion on Discord


Ball ache of a brew day from something simple

Started by Leann ull, May 05, 2016, 11:13:16 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Leann ull

Two turns in my 3 roller mill to get a finer crush  to improve efficiency and I ended out making porridge, the fine particles blocked the bag and sucked it to the bottom of the floor.
F it just take the bag out and pour onto the mesh floor. Balls some of the particles are so fine they have gone through the mesh and blocking the outlet no herms.
So after an hour of switching on an off Chugger stirring and filtering through the bag into the boiler I got my pre boil wort.

To add insult to injury I was 7 points higher even with an 75% efficiency

Needless to mention the mill has been set back to the bigger crush.

Shanna

Quote from: CH on May 05, 2016, 11:13:16 PM
Two turns in my 3 roller mill to get a finer crush  to improve efficiency and I ended out making porridge, the fine particles blocked the bag and sucked it to the bottom of the floor.
F it just take the bag out and pour onto the mesh floor. Balls some of the particles are so fine they have gone through the mesh and blocking the outlet no herms.
So after an hour of switching on an off Chugger stirring and filtering through the bag into the boiler I got my pre boil wort.

To add insult to injury I was 7 points higher even with an 75% efficiency

Needless to mention the mill has been set back to the bigger crush.
My sympathies, remember the rye brew night I did :) Sorry for your troubles. I wonder do you premoisten your grain before crushing? I found I got nice big kernels when the grain was crushed.

Shanna
Cornie keg group buy organiser, storeman & distribution point
Hops Group buy packer
Regulator & Taps distribution point
Stainless Steel Fermenter Group Buy Organiser
South Dublin Brewers member

Leann ull

Purely down to crush and me being an greedy c. re efficiency, I wanted to see if I could hit 95%.  :D

Shanna

Quote from: CH on May 05, 2016, 11:26:05 PM
Purely down to crush and me being an greedy c. re efficiency, I wanted to see if I could hit 95%.  :D
Maybe one turn next time h settle for 85% instead.

Shanna
Cornie keg group buy organiser, storeman & distribution point
Hops Group buy packer
Regulator & Taps distribution point
Stainless Steel Fermenter Group Buy Organiser
South Dublin Brewers member

Leann ull

Quote from: Shanna on May 05, 2016, 11:42:34 PM

Maybe one turn next time h settle for 85% instead.

Shanna

I'm already getting that  :P
Cheap shit crankenstein ;D

Kevin O'Roundwood

Quote from: CH on May 05, 2016, 11:46:37 PM
Cheap shit crankenstein ;D

You're right John, I'll take the thing off your hands for ya. Piece of junk... I'll give you a nice beech rolling pin so you can just bash the shite out of the grains instead, the old fashioned way!  :P

Sorry to hear it though, must've just gone south after I left
Buachaill dána

DEMPSEY

First rule of thumb,if it ain't broke  don't fix it.
Dei miscendarum discipulus
Forgive us our Hangovers as we forgive those who hangover against us

molc

May 06, 2016, 08:22:17 AM #7 Last Edit: May 06, 2016, 12:26:50 PM by molc
Yup my mash and spare is still all over the place with the new rig because I keep trying to change it. KISS is there for a reason :)

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

Leann ull

If I say to you my normal brewday for
My last 15 is set herms up and after it hits mash temp I walk away for an hour. It's been changed back to its 1.1mm setting and won't be touched again!
Thanks for the offer Kevin, if you hurry you can still fish it out of the bin at the gate!

SkiBeagle

I think you're right on at 1.0-1.1mm. Seen people mention crushes down below 0.6mm but I don't know how that works at all.
Kal in the Electric Brewery gets 95% at 1mm crush, but he does a very long slow sparge (90min). I tend to mash very thin, about 5L/kg, followed by a very fast sparge (<10mins) of the remaining 33% liquor, run through the grain like a dose of salts and that gets me into the nineties.
Do you throttle your Chugger? I've a little Topsflo 12Vdc pump, 11 L/min, and I've a valve on the pressure side, to give a very slow steady circulation. Not too much suction on the bottom of the grain bed to avoid compacting the grain. I've a sight glass on the exit port of the mash tun, and even the little Topsflo can cause cavitation, if I don't throttle it back.
I've no idea if mashing so thin affects flavour profile. According to Kai, it doesn't matter, all the German breweries mash thin.

Leann ull

Quote from: SkiBeagle on May 06, 2016, 10:30:21 AM
I think you're right on at 1.0-1.1mm. Seen people mention crushes down below 0.6mm but I don't know how that works at all.
Kal in the Electric Brewery gets 95% at 1mm crush, but he does a very long slow sparge (90min). I tend to mash very thin, about 5L/kg, followed by a very fast sparge (<10mins) of the remaining 33% liquor, run through the grain like a dose of salts and that gets me into the nineties.
Do you throttle your Chugger? I've a little Topsflo 12Vdc pump, 11 L/min, and I've a valve on the pressure side, to give a very slow steady circulation. Not too much suction on the bottom of the grain bed to avoid compacting the grain. I've a sight glass on the exit port of the mash tun, and even the little Topsflo can cause cavitation, if I don't throttle it back.
I've no idea if mashing so thin affects flavour profile. According to Kai, it doesn't matter, all the German breweries mash thin.

Thanks for the info.
No sightglass on MT dont see the point tbh.
I throttle by having full open bore feed and narrow 3/8 out on a camlock. I was messing around with a clamp on the tubing yesterday on the out but it made feck all difference.
Trying to get me head around the fact that it still sucks like the bejaysus even if its throttled right?
I've been avoiding putting a valve on exit even through I have 2 spare! I think I am just going to have to do it :(
If you are Herms all you are doing in the sparge is rinsing the sugars on the ourside of the grain so you don't need a long sparge and I do exactly as you.

molc

Quote from: SkiBeagle on May 06, 2016, 10:30:21 AM
I think you're right on at 1.0-1.1mm. Seen people mention crushes down below 0.6mm but I don't know how that works at all.
Kal in the Electric Brewery gets 95% at 1mm crush, but he does a very long slow sparge (90min). I tend to mash very thin, about 5L/kg, followed by a very fast sparge (<10mins) of the remaining 33% liquor, run through the grain like a dose of salts and that gets me into the nineties.
Do you throttle your Chugger? I've a little Topsflo 12Vdc pump, 11 L/min, and I've a valve on the pressure side, to give a very slow steady circulation. Not too much suction on the bottom of the grain bed to avoid compacting the grain. I've a sight glass on the exit port of the mash tun, and even the little Topsflo can cause cavitation, if I don't throttle it back.
I've no idea if mashing so thin affects flavour profile. According to Kai, it doesn't matter, all the German breweries mash thin.

I'm in the middle of trying to fix this on mine. My mash tun design isn't great with the bag, which means there is some space on the side that liquid can channel along, unless I sparge slowly. I've tried doing it quickly (chugger valve open ~50%) and I get 60% into the BK.

How long do you take to drain the initial liquid from the mash tun? Do you just sparge and drain all in 10 minutes?



Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

nigel_c

I herms after all is done I let it gravity drain from my MT with the valve just bearly cracked. About half an hour or so. Sparge, recirculate then slowly pump to kettle. Can take an hour and a half but hitting 90+ efficiency.

Next is to replace my corona mill with something a bit heftier.

SkiBeagle

I'm doing a kind of redneck herms with a plate exchanger to dump some heat from the kettle into the mash to compensate for temp loss in the mash tun. So I've my sparge water (usually 33%) left in the kettle during the mash to cover the element. At the end of the mash, I usually increase to 76C for a mashout, which helps with flushing the grains. Then I pump the sparge water up to a bucket placed above the mash tun, to empty the kettle. Then gravity drain from mash tun to kettle. When the water level is about 20mm above the grain bed, I open the valve to let the sparge water slowly into the mash tun to keep the same level. I think the main reason for good efficiency is thin mashing, and then gravity-draining the mash so channelling isn't much of an issue. The mash tun draining is about 15 mins, followed by the sparge water for about 10 mins. I get most of this time back because I start the ramp to boil as soon as the kettle element is covered. Another advantage of thin mashing: you don't have to wait for sparge water to dilute the first runnings, so you can start the boil immediately.

CH: I think you'll definitely need a valve on the output side of the chugger. Those things are monsters. Words like "chrome" and "ballhitch" come to mind. The sightglass normally goes on the end of the fermenter to collect yeast. But I put it onto the mash tun exit so I can see the wort colour and clarity, and also how fast I can pump without cavitating. Even the small topsflo is capable of pulling more wort out than the grain bed can supply.

Leann ull

I heard yez
I measured full whack and it's 20l/min
Just measured there at half what and it's 10 so even on a 30 that's every three min