Wolstan Haven Brewery

[Stitch]

Also that looks like 2.5sq cable. I would suggest maybe upgrading to 6sq at least but by right should be 10sq. Have you measured/calculated the full load?
Dont forget the mcb is only there to protect the cable.

I sized the cable for Brian using this calculator, and this is the result...

You have the be careful here. That calculation is based on 100DegC!!
I would always base mine on room temperature (as would most sparks)
As the temperature increases the cable is capable of carrying a bit more current.

[Stitch]

Yep that is how I would have done it. You even added an extra 2kw for misc which is good (you need that radio on while brewing)

[johnrm]

@Stitch, careful now, you are at risk of becoming the resident Spark!

[DEMPSEY]

Some upgrades to my boil Kettle. I have gone back to a dip tube pickup from the middle and instead plan on using a hop sock. When boil is complete I will using my counterflow re-circulate the hot wort and return it to the kettle using my new design.

[DEMPSEY]

Je like my new lid,split so I do not disturb my chimenee ( not install in picture) while I do a hop addition.

[Kieran the Human]

Wow that is some impressive stuff -

[brenmurph]

is this brewery open for tours on fridays?

[Garry]

That's sweet!

Is the sock a home made job or can I buy one somewhere?

How are you bending the stainless steel pipe? It's tasty.

I see you've got your pump at the outlet of the chiller. I think that's where I was going wrong, I had it at the inlet. I found that the pump was under pressure. I should have been sucking instead of blowing??

BTW, if you do decide to chuck the fridge out a hotel window, you'll need to drive a Rolls Royce into the swimming pool first! Like a boss?

[DEMPSEY]

Thanks Garry, I have 2 pumps for my counterflow,both are solar pumps. The reason is these pumps need to be primed before they can work so when I first open the valve of the kettle the hot wort flows into the pump which is below the counterflow and that then is able to push the wort up through the pipe in the counterflow. The one in the picture you see then does its job of returning the wort to the Kettle. When all is finally cooled I then redirect the wort to the FV and so the pump in the picture is the last pump to run dry as it draws the last of the cooled wort out of the counterflow pipe ad into the FV.
As regards to the Fridge, I have found a source for JB Waterweld here in Ireland. So I need to re-gas it now.

[brenmurph]

Dempsey....ur brewery opened Fridays for tours?... U never replied?

[DEMPSEY]

More like Mondays or Tuesdays

[brenmurph]

ahhhh was off today

[DEMPSEY]

OK after not happy with the Kettle set up I went back to the original  idea and put the dip tube back to the middle. Then added a sort of hop spider in which the recirculating wort will be returned into the hop bag which is hung inside the Kettle. First time around the place was like a Turkish steam house so now the new chimenee has this sorted. Takes all the steam out,n.b. brewday at Wolstan smells like st James street.
Oh and the new split lid means I can add late hops and such without having to move the chimney.

[DEMPSEY]

Did a brew using the spider/bag and would NOT recommend this course. The purpose of re-circulating  the wort back through the bag was fine. By doing this the hot and cold break was being caught in the bag and held there by the hops,however,the bag is no way big enough and with 90 grams of hops it struggled to contain both the hops and the break material. It also did not drain to well because the sticky break clogged the material . Soo onwards and upwards and here is the new design. It is a copper pipe frame with slits cut into the pipe and wrapped in a  stainless steel mesh pouch. Tested it last night and it drains well and re-circulates well. Will be doing a test brew to check its ability to handle both pellet and whole hops. :

[DEMPSEY]

The difference with this is the whole of the kettle floor will settle with hops and break so as I drain it will give me a bigger surface area.