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DIY HLT

Started by Garry, May 26, 2014, 01:18:51 PM

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BrewDorg

I'll be going the dremel route too. Either that or else the metal etching with a 9V battery.

I'm going to swap out the TC for the PT100 as they're more accurate. It's possibly overkill for me right now but I know I'll probably upgrade my kit to recirculate the mash and at that stage I'll want the accuracy of the PT100.

I plan on drilling it straight through the bottom of the kettle, towards the edge, as far away from the element as possible. I'm doing this so I can have everything contained in the skirt. If I didn't have the double lining, I'd be putting it through the side but it'd be a pain in the ass drilling through both layers and then having a gammy looking wire from the side into the skirt. Just want it to look nice and neat.

cruiscinlan

Quote from: dcalnan on January 11, 2016, 11:06:28 PM
I know the only way to get a more accurate reading with them is installing them in a tee fitting and have the liquid constantly flowing through it.

How exactly would you have them in a t-fitting? As in screwed into the wall of the boiler and then internally placed inside a t-fitting?

dcalnan

something like this on the outside of the HLT, It does need a pump to recirculate water though it




cruiscinlan

Quote from: BrewDorg on January 12, 2016, 01:24:37 PM
I'll be going the dremel route too. Either that or else the metal etching with a 9V battery.

I'm going to swap out the TC for the PT100 as they're more accurate. It's possibly overkill for me right now but I know I'll probably upgrade my kit to recirculate the mash and at that stage I'll want the accuracy of the PT100.


Did you get all the kit for the work as yet?  As well will you be getting one of those stainless ports for the temp sense or place it directly into the tank?

Where are you getting the PT100?  It's a great idea to build it to have it ready later for a pump set-up.
 

BrewDorg

Quote from: cruiscinlan on January 15, 2016, 11:02:46 AM
Did you get all the kit for the work as yet?  As well will you be getting one of those stainless ports for the temp sense or place it directly into the tank?

Where are you getting the PT100?  It's a great idea to build it to have it ready later for a pump set-up.


Yep I've ordered everything. This is the PT100 I bought. Not cheap but worth future proofing myself. I also left off the transformer because after doing some research, the V*AN model REX C100 doesn't need it. It uses a voltage pulse for the SSR so happy days.

For now, the PT100 will be drilled into the bottom of my boiler, allowing me to have everything installed neatly in the skirt. If (more likely WHEN) I decide to add a pump for recirculation, I'll take it out and have it installed in a T joint at the tap.

cruiscinlan

Quote from: BrewDorg on January 15, 2016, 02:38:17 PM
I also left off the transformer because after doing some research, the V*AN model REX C100 doesn't need it. It uses a voltage pulse for the SSR so happy days.

Slightly confused here, so you'll be wiring the PID set up directly to the A/C from a plug then?

BrewDorg

Correct, here's the circuit diagram I have planned for it. My kettle has an AC plug already there, so I'm just going to strip out the current thermostat and wire this one in. The PT100 should have a 3rd connection too on pin 8. Worth nothing that for the M*AN version, Garrys diagram on page 1 is spot on.

nigel_c

Would really recommend http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ for any research regards HLT etc. It is now my bible for my rebuild.
Links to parts and also a forum.

cruiscinlan

Well my catering urn arrived.  However it is the wrong model number i.e. 20L internal capacity and has no dial thermostat on the side.

Now the question is should I keep it and work with it or return it and re-order?  I think a 20L capacity would be quite tight on space especially with a big mash. 

molc

I'd return. I use 45L and have come close to the top a few times on bigger beers, assuming 30L into the boil kettle.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

cruiscinlan

Whoah! What a monster!  Where'd you get that?

molc

Ah, I have converted keggles, though before that I used a converted igloo 45L cooler that I sold here over xmas.

If you're doing a BIAB setup, 20L is just going to be very very small for a standard boil.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

BrewDorg

I wouldn't mind another 5-10 litres of headspace on my 30L model. I'd definitely return it.

dcalnan

So finally wired up my pid and it won't work. Firstly it's telling me that its input range is 0-1200 k-06, and not the 0-400 k-02 that I bought, and secondly it's saying that the measured value (PV) is over the scale. I think the problem is I bought a berme rex c100 and not a rkc made one.

BrewDorg

I have mine wired up but I can't test it because I need to water seal my kettle before I can fill it and test. I'm thinking of adding a second switch that would allow me to turn the REX on without turning the element on too but not sure if I can do that.

Once I have it all wired up, I'll see if I'm getting similar to you.