National Homebrew Club Ireland

I managed to get my hands on a couple of kegs. 

After getting good results in the past witha plastic bucket boilers and a bucket mash tun I want to get a better set up going.  I sold all that and went back to kits,  but after a year of brew kits,  I have come to the conclusion that they suck.   

My new system.

It has to be portable , as it all needs stacked in a small shed after I finish brewing in the yard.

Im thinking I may not really need two as the HLT and the boiler can do the same job, and find an igloo for mashing in.   

Im in no rush , but as my kids and mortgage suck every cent from my meager pockets each week, I would like to keep costs down .

The internet is almost too full of ideas,     But I quite like this guys effort.  The problem is,  he has no parts list.  http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=51631

I have basic electrical skills as a maintenance technician in a factory many years ago. I could tackle the electrics with a bit of guidance.

Any suggestions on what to do?  Should I bother with HLT or even a pump?   

If I was building again, I'd make something like a grainfather. Get a Stockpot you can fit in the keg, drill holes in the top and bottom and use that as a mash bag. Then put a valve on the bottom and recirculate during mash for temp control. End of the mash, whip the grain out, maybe sparge and off you go.

A 3V setup is great, but takes a lot of space and also a lot of time to physically build. If I didn't have mine in place and cleaned in place, I wouldn't have bothered.

I'm in the process of constructing a keggle as well.  I have been using a plastic boiler with tesco elements for BIAB which have worked well but i wanted the freedom of not having to look out for a boil over, to step mash and just have shiny things.  I was thinking about having a RIMS system for a while but i have changed my mind to have a more neater system.  The thought is just to have the one vessel like a grainfather but with a larger capacity, which should be able to do everything.

The idea is to have a bottom draining keggle with a pid to control the two tesco elements and have a pump to recirculate the whole lot.  I've been picking up pieces over the last while and so far i have a solar pump, the fittings, a sightglass and a hop stopper http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shippping-brand-new-14-35cm-Stainless-Steel-Hop-Spider-Home-Brew-Beer-Hop-Filter/32373728442.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shippping-brand-new-14-35cm-Stainless-Steel-Hop-Spider-Home-Brew-Beer-Hop-Filter/32373728442.html).  I seen an electrical diagram which runs off two plugs and controls two elements thats simple and i was gonna add a 3 way switch so that i can control the elements manually and bypass the pid.  I was also thinking about having a mesh to stand above the elements so the BIAB will not come into contact with them and an ikea mesh guard on the bottom so i can stop bits getting into the pump and to catch the cold break.  My control panel i'm hoping will have electrical quick disconnects so everything can be put in the keggle for storage.

Its an idea that i was thinking of for a while and i'm slowly picking up pieces and changing my mind slightly (especially when you trawl through the internet).  Food for thought!

If you're set on using a keg I'd stick with one for the boiler and then a cooler mash tun. I just collect my first runnings in buckets and use my one pot as boiler and hlt. Less equipment to mess around with and does the job well enough!

Some great ideas. 

I was thinking of meshing in a cooler and just using a thermometer and an on/off switch to achieve strike temp .  It seemed like a simple method   with my old buckets. 

But using temp control does sound sexy as hell.   

And has me thinking hard. 

I have one important question  though.     I have a 32amp ring to the sockets in the kitchen.   A separate 32 amp supply to upstairs hot press and another 32 amp to all the other sockets in the house.   

I think i'm going to have to run a second extension into my hall way to pick up a separate circuit  from the kitchen.   Last thing I want it damage to my home.     when heating im going to be using 5000w at once.     Is that too much for one circuit? 

Has anyone tried these?   They look tidy and have a socket...  http://www.heatingelementcompany.co.uk/default.asp?Product=287

Quote from: Motorbikeman on January 22, 2016, 08:05:25 PM
Some great ideas. 

I was thinking of meshing in a cooler and just using a thermometer and an on/off switch to achieve strike temp .  It seemed like a simple method   with my old buckets. 

But using temp control does sound sexy as hell.   

And has me thinking hard. 

I have one important question  though.     I have a 32amp ring to the sockets in the kitchen.   A separate 32 amp supply to upstairs hot press and another 32 amp to all the other sockets in the house.   

I think i'm going to have to run a second extension into my hall way to pick up a separate circuit  from the kitchen.   Last thing I want it damage to my home.     when heating im going to be using 5000w at once.     Is that too much for one circuit? 

Has anyone tried these?   They look tidy and have a socket...  http://www.heatingelementcompany.co.uk/default.asp?Product=287

I had two of those elements in my first biab setup and they were a bitch to seal and that was on a plastic bucket. The elements themselves are good but you will need to buy km8 locknuts and you might need to make your own silicone gasket to get a good seal. If i was doing a keggle i would go for a 3kw or higher camco style element and i would insulate the keg. Check brewpi for ekements and gaskets.

gREAT SITE. 

Would one of these be good enough to bring 30L up to a boil?        If so,  is there a simple dial type controller for such an element?
https://store.brewpi.com/featured/stainless-steel-foldback-heating-element-3200w-32cm

Molc has them he will know, at 3500w you will exceed standard wiring capability

As with all electrical stuff just don't unless you are sure

From ESB Networks brochure

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160123/bff1f2ff2242635232aec6ba3d093e2e.jpg)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160123/77434da1d1672a5426316a53ee9ca722.jpg)

Thanks CH.  I might go with two of the elements you went for and run a line to another area of my home for the second.. 

  How much are they each?

Quote from: Motorbikeman on January 23, 2016, 01:45:26 PM
gREAT SITE. 

Would one of these be good enough to bring 30L up to a boil?        If so,  is there a simple dial type controller for such an element?
https://store.brewpi.com/featured/stainless-steel-foldback-heating-element-3200w-32cm

I got the 2.8kw one and it gets there, slowly. Added a second hbc element and it flies along now, using pwm to throttle to 80% for the bill.

One thing that I noticed when putting in a second element is that the wires don't get warm anymore. Since the setup is more powerful than needed, the ardbir throttles the elements and it heats faster and is on for less time. Win win.

Just makes sure to run them on separate circuits in your house.

Quote from: itsclinto on January 22, 2016, 08:52:12 AM
I'm in the process of constructing a keggle as well.  I have been using a plastic boiler with tesco elements for BIAB which have worked well but i wanted the freedom of not having to look out for a boil over, to step mash and just have shiny things.  I was thinking about having a RIMS system for a while but i have changed my mind to have a more neater system.  The thought is just to have the one vessel like a grainfather but with a larger capacity, which should be able to do everything.

The idea is to have a bottom draining keggle with a pid to control the two tesco elements and have a pump to recirculate the whole lot.  I've been picking up pieces over the last while and so far i have a solar pump, the fittings, a sightglass and a hop stopper http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shippping-brand-new-14-35cm-Stainless-Steel-Hop-Spider-Home-Brew-Beer-Hop-Filter/32373728442.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shippping-brand-new-14-35cm-Stainless-Steel-Hop-Spider-Home-Brew-Beer-Hop-Filter/32373728442.html).  I seen an electrical diagram which runs off two plugs and controls two elements thats simple and i was gonna add a 3 way switch so that i can control the elements manually and bypass the pid.  I was also thinking about having a mesh to stand above the elements so the BIAB will not come into contact with them and an ikea mesh guard on the bottom so i can stop bits getting into the pump and to catch the cold break.  My control panel i'm hoping will have electrical quick disconnects so everything can be put in the keggle for storage.

Its an idea that i was thinking of for a while and i'm slowly picking up pieces and changing my mind slightly (especially when you trawl through the internet).  Food for thought!

I have been looking and thinking about this for the last few days, and im trying to find a big advantage over this type of design over a coolbox &  keg boiler set up.     What are they?     

 

Less stuff but TBH, the all in one is a little messy when you life the grain tube, unless you are brewing outdoors. I personally like having the mash separate but it does mean you have to do a liquid transfer.

Quote from: Motorbikeman on January 26, 2016, 12:38:07 AM
I have been looking and thinking about this for the last few days, and im trying to find a big advantage over this type of design over a coolbox &  keg boiler set up.     What are they?     

As molc said, its really just a biab with temperature control.  My initial idea was rims but thought it's awkward with the external tube etc so after seeing a couple of americans using gas to keep the mash temperature constant, why can't i with electric elements.  The elements tied in to a pid mean that i can do step mashes and mash outs before removing the grain for the boil.  Thats the idea anyway  8)

Hi. 

In my Boil Kettle.   I have ordered 2  2k elements and leads , and have a thermometer for it, cut and cleaned her up a bit.

Im just not sure what way to drain it best.

(http://s10.postimg.org/fggkyfjbt/20160128_224824_1.jpg)

Should I use a simple dip tube into the middle, or keep the dip tube up a bit to the side to avoid trub and hops after a good stir? 

Should I attach a bazooka screen or make a false bottom with the top bit I cut away? 

Youtube is full of great tips , but its hard to sort the shit set ups from the good.

I started with centre drain years ago and no amount of trub filters bazookas and everything else stopped all the crap coming through and although a small bit of trub is fine i am not a fan. In the end a side drain with a pipe (chadwicks sell bendy SS ones to follow shape of keg) placed to pick up at the same level as the start of the curvature of the keg. when you have finished your boil and cooled, a stir with a sanitised plastic paddle on a drill leave for 20 mins and you will have clean wort with all the crap sitting in the curve.   You will loose 5 litres but its just crap at the bottom and put that calc into you beersmith or what you have measured on a water test.

Nice cut btw
Don't forget to earth your elements

I've organised a guy in Lucan to sanitary weld some 1" half sockets (ie 1" stainless socket cut into two) into my keggles to take the straight bend back camco elements ( rather than the wave curve bend back elements if that makes sense) that way they can be threaded in without any sealing issues and can be easily removed for replacement if necessary. I also bought some stainless element covers from Bobby in Brewhardware.com to cover the element terminals and give an earth connection.

  Was thinking of using a bazooka kit with ball valve for my cooler mash tun .  Plus another ball valve kit for the boiler . 

But its coming in very pricy for what they are.  18 sterling for a tap and washer. 
  http://www.bridgewaterbrewing.co.uk/taps-valves-and-weldless-kits.html

Where can I get the little stainless tube and fitting that fits to the end of the stainless 1/2" nipple.   At a good price. 

Like this one.     And would it be any use on a keg kettle?    I checked chadwicks but they dont seem to stock any stainless stuff.

(http://s8.postimg.org/vybsqgb85/DSCN6323.jpg)
I have this pipe that was in the keg . Buts its an odd size ..

(http://s22.postimg.org/idtsgzr81/P1020119.jpg)

Quote from: Motorbikeman on February 03, 2016, 04:05:00 PM
Where can I get the little stainless tube and fitting that fits to the end of the stainless 1/2" nipple.   At a good price. 

You are looking for a dip tube. very handy in a keggle.

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20160203091213&SearchText=stainless+dip+tube

Thanks.  They seem perfect . 
  I ordered step drills of alliexpress last week. There are not here yet.   How long does it usually take  from china. 

depends, I ordered step bits on the 7th of December and got them last week. I ordered something else for coffee on the 17th of January and got it today, I say Christmas delayed a lot of orders.

Woodies have flexible stainless tubing which dos the job in the plumbing section

Is it this stuff?
http://www.woodiesdiy.com/Product/flexible-hosing-250mm-bsp-long-flexi-tube-connector/12797/6.0.0.4

Parts arrived today .  Those plastic shrouds look a bit weak.  Trip to Ted Johnson in Naas tomorrow for steel nuts should sort it.


(http://s12.postimg.org/cwo2kou65/P1020120.jpg)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191638957686?euid=e41c72020cb247858ed833c9a482ca1f&cp=1&exe=11473&ext=27979&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Weldless-Thermometer-2-Long-Home-Brewing-All-Grain-Boiler-Mash-Tun-HLT-/171928429780?hash=item2807bba4d4:g:Qp4AAOSwNSxVQ4Y~

Steel nuts or mr lard shrouds what I used on mine
Oh bugger just noticed I think you bought the lowered powered element 1.5kw I think which has this (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160203/7a22f2d5b57e3eadfdc747fdd538f5e3.jpg)

Instead of this

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160203/7b2039fdd4e29512c8ed04783c0104a3.jpg)

One on the top is the one you want (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160203/d968ac54be44b742aee25b951b789b31.jpg)

Yep. Same as. 1500w.    I thought they might have been over 2000w.

I only like to brew 25 liter batches anyways.  3000w should get me there comfortable ..  I hope..   

Also ordered one of these yokes a couple of weeks ago.   Might be useful. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121316833908?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You can get all those bits and pieces from brewpi.

 Thanks again CH.       May as well do it right the first time.  Im sending the 1500w back.

Got a couple of backer elements instead for the same money.

http://www.backerelectric.com/products/kettle_elements.asp

Yep sorry you won't regret it
They have 2 on their site, the one with the round pin and you'll be good.
Don't forget 2 circuits to feed these bad boys!

Things are coming together.   Waiting on 2 new more powerful elements .   These 1500w elements will be used in HLT keg when I begin that.

(http://s8.postimg.org/x98miphud/20160205_101359_1.jpg)

(http://imgur.com/yklwQIc.png)

(http://s7.postimg.org/3zpokd6uj/P1020128.jpg)
(http://s10.postimg.org/mxikq3yzt/P1020127.jpg)

The stainless pipe is from woodies.  Great jobby. 

@motorbikeman, I bought the same elements from spares to go and returned them as were not as advertised also tried to get metal nuts from Ted Johnson for that thread no luck.

Yes .  I went to Ted's today.   He usually does have them,  but no KM8 nuts in stock.

Need 4 of them now  so this lad on ebay via parcel motel should get me sorted.   
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161085394175


I was going to return those 1500 elements.  But they will be perfect for a HLT as together they pull 3000w and can be wired to run on one circuit without overloading. 
The 2 bigger 2700 should be here on Monday. 

Still have to figure a way of  neatly earthing them also

Incidentally.  The plastic shroud nuts that came with the elements tighten up nicely on home made silicone washers.  I have no leaks with them.

I can't seem to stop a very little leak from my new mash tun .  I got the fitting from HBC  .    Have I got it on right? 
(http://s14.postimg.org/fuhn0ev8h/P1020129.jpg)
(http://s14.postimg.org/nd0s91mld/P1020130.jpg)
(http://s14.postimg.org/js4wpti1t/P1020131.jpg)

I am curious how well the plastic nut works and how do you plan to earth

Quote from: Motorbikeman on February 05, 2016, 06:03:44 PM
I can't seem to stop a very little leak from my new mash tun .  I got the fitting from HBC  .    Have I got it on right? 

Remove everything and try wrapping a few winds of ptfe tape around the nipple thread. Hopefully that will give you a better seal. Otherwise you could try this stuff

http://www.fernox.com/products/traditional+plumbing+products/jointing+compounds/ls-x+external+leak+sealer

Shanna

I bought the cheap ones years ago they rusted, Kevin in Roundwood will post his link to stainless ones

Quote from: hassettbrew on February 05, 2016, 06:22:24 PM
I am curious how well the plastic nut works and how do you plan to earth

Metal nuts direct contact to keg, plastic nuts need a separate earth

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/BEARING-OPTIONS-KM-SERIES-STAINLESS-STEEL-LOCKNUTS-LOCK-WASHER-TYPE-/200845936093?var=500121950446&hash=item2ec359c5dd:m:mUUeVupwjns1MIYQMm0OpuQ

These are the ones I bought. Very fancy...

Jeepers I need 4 !!     


Might just but the steel ones and spray them with HT paint. 

HLT started with a future plan of using temp control with my two 1500 w  elements. Just going to get it going for now though.   Plan to bottom drain this one with brass and coppers as its only for warm water.  Maybe timber feet to get  clearance.   

Just to be clear and all. If I use a steel nut with no washer for the elements, the kegs are safe with regards earthing?   

Tis very satisfying trying to clean up kegs ..  Strange.    All getting neatly wrapped after sight glasses fitted.       

(http://s12.postimg.org/b44bjbeal/keg.jpg)

(http://s10.postimg.org/hitekuxi1/keg1.jpg)

Bottom drained the HLT   and welded a bracket on.     Finished now. 

(http://s10.postimg.org/tme3994p5/P1020210.jpg)
(http://s10.postimg.org/3s4ajh4p5/P1020211.jpg)

Love the bottom drains. I'm doing it with a center drain in my own rig, as I didn't want to make feet for the kegs, but ti's the way to go for cleaning.

Looks great, just wondering where do i source a temp gauge like the one youve fitted ??

ali express 10-15 euro try and find one with 3" dial

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-Dial-Analog-Thermometer-Weldless-Kit-2-Probe-0-220-Degrees-Homebrew-Mash/1387070827.html?spm=2114.40010708.4.48.AmJZZK

I got this one.   It works well.  A bit hard to read  if the keg is on the ground.  .  Was in my PM locker in 2 days from ordering.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171928429780?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Im done with Ali-express.   The wait for bits and bobs is ridiculous.   Still waiting on step drills for this project, thats now finished. 

Ye could swim to Asia quicker..

aliexpress and ebay hk are deffo ones you buy and get pleasantly surprised about in 4-6 weeks when it arrives.
If you need stuff in a hurry shop local it will cost you 20-50% more for same item tho :(

Thanks for all the advise so far. 

My next project is a cheap simple temperature control for my keg HLT.   Was a bit tricky to get the strike temp spot on on my last brew. I was turning it off and on manually.     

I have two 1500w elements fitted . Together pulling 12.5amps

The stc1000  spec is 10 amp so I may need a relay im guessing. 

DOes anyone have a circuit plan for this sort of thing?   Or a better option of temp control?   

I found this schematic online, looks like it will do the job,
(http://api.ning.com/files/F6kBJElJzOZwmfh3F*ulJJEpzOeQUFfMmAI9QsAQ4bPGthioo98wn9UzMCVD1rmGVApb0mQgztR075yYxljPk5Gsw*VnudVW/stc1000withrelay.jpg)

You could just have one wired to the stc. One would be enough to maintain temp once you l hit it. Turn one off and let one run off the remp controller.

is the stc1000 temp probe waterproof in hot water?

not recommended in boiling water you need a thermowell

Lads anybody know how to buy from back electric? Do you have to phone the orders through? The alternative website
http://www.heatingelementcompany.co.uk/ does not find those 2.75kw elements (or at least I could not figure out the magic combo on their search function).

Shanna

After this link you add to basket.  Pay and that it. 

http://www.heatingelementcompany.co.uk/default.asp?buy=287
Quick word of warning. 

They send an invoice separately to your parcel motel.   Costing another 4 quid with parcel motel.    Make sure you request the invoice to be sent together.

Quote from: Motorbikeman on March 11, 2016, 08:30:17 AM
After this link you add to basket.  Pay and that it. 

http://www.heatingelementcompany.co.uk/default.asp?buy=287
Quick word of warning. 

The send an invoice separately to your parcel motel.   Costing another 4 quid with parcel motel.    Make sure you request the invoice to be sent together.

Problem was with the website not working correctly on a mobile web browser. Using the search with a desktop browser it works (sort of :). Thanks for the nudge.

Declan

Quote from: Shanna on March 11, 2016, 02:43:46 PM

Quote from: Motorbikeman on March 11, 2016, 08:30:17 AM
After this link you add to basket.  Pay and that it. 

http://www.heatingelementcompany.co.uk/default.asp?buy=287
Quick word of warning. 

The send an invoice separately to your parcel motel.   Costing another 4 quid with parcel motel.    Make sure you request the invoice to be sent together.

Problem was with the website not working correctly on a mobile web browser. Using the search with a desktop browser it works (sort of :). Thanks for the nudge.

Declan

Amazon is also selling the following - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014RD4KMY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=AR5NTANTFUHVI for €13.99 per item. Waiting on them to confirm what the wattage of them is.

Shanna

Spares to go sell the 1500w ones.  I got two of them already.     I have them on my HLT.   

I have one spare backing nut if you need it ..  for free.     Let me know I will post it on. 

Quote from: Motorbikeman on March 11, 2016, 08:10:39 PM
Spares to go sell the 1500w ones.  I got two of them already.     I have them on my HLT.   

I have one spare backing nut if you need it ..  for free.     Let me know I will post it on.

Ah I see I actually want the larger ones. Explains why previous ones I bought were so slow to heat stuff up.

Shanna

I use hola and order directly from the backer site

Quote from: CH on March 11, 2016, 09:33:37 PM
I use hola and order directly from the backer site

Tell us more of this thing called "hola"?

Shanna

Hola.org I was sure you were in IT ;)

Quote from: CH on March 12, 2016, 12:36:45 PM
Hola.org I was sure you were in IT ;)

Did not realise their site was country locked hence the query :) Have never ordered from them so will be using a proxy to execute the order.

Shanna

didn't know that, this one yeah https://hola.org/ ? I use it for BBC iplayer etc
Are there any others you recommend.

Quote from: CH on March 11, 2016, 09:33:37 PM
I use hola and order directly from the backer site

Beginning to feel like I am missing something here. You mentioned that you used hola to do a direct order but I don't see any links on the site that allows you order direct from backerelectric (unless the hola plugin on my firefox browser is not working). Any light you can shine on this would be appreciated.

Shanna

Netflix are biased but nevertheless I uninstalled thanks for the heads up 

Cab anybody on this thread who has ordered from backer electric comment on how quick they arrived? I ordered a set of elements from them on Paddy's day & still no sign. The website is shite as it gives a 500 (server error) when you use their web based contact form. I tried using a direct email address custservice@heatingelementcompany.co.uk & got an unknown recipient rejection from a nail server. It's almost like they don't want to deal with queries.

Going to call them soon if I don't get them soon, they have already taken my money :(

Shanna

Hi Shanna.  I'm sorry to hear your having trouble.   Mine arrived in around 4 days with parcel motel.   Maybe the hols are delaying your stuff.. 


Today was my 3rd brew in my kegs.    Now i'm beginning to get down to rough tuning my beersmith a bit better with experience.  I am getting 3.5l to 4l per hour boil off which seems quite excessive.  Is it? 

I hit my OG perfect after spending hours on youtube watching batch sparging vids.   I think I have that bit nailed now. 

  But im still  short on my final  fermenter volume  . 

Another aspect of being 3 L  short of my fermenter volume is my lack of knowledge on whirlpooling  .  Im having no luck with the technique at all.    I have tried a wooded spoon on a cordless drill which only seemed to produce foam.  I tried stirring with the same spoon  for a few mins but this is the result.     Im I missing something?     Im losing about 4 L on the bottom of the keg..   Here is what it looks like after all my efforts. 
(http://s12.postimg.org/s1i2fieil/20160330_204848.jpg) 

Quote from: Motorbikeman on March 30, 2016, 09:10:35 PM
Hi Shanna.  I'm sorry to hear your having trouble.   Mine arrived in around 4 days with parcel motel.   Maybe the hols are delaying your stuff.. 


Today was my 3rd brew in my kegs.    Now i'm beginning to get down to rough tuning my beersmith a bit better with experience.  I am getting 3.5l to 4l per hour boil off which seems quite excessive.  Is it? 

I hit my OG perfect after spending hours on youtube watching batch sparging vids.   I think I have that bit nailed now. 

  But im still  short on my final  fermenter volume  . 

Another aspect of being 3 L  short of my fermenter volume is my lack of knowledge on whirlpooling  .  Im having no luck with the technique at all.    I have tried a wooded spoon on a cordless drill which only seemed to produce foam.  I tried stirring with the same spoon  for a few mins but this is the result.     Im I missing something?     Im losing about 4 L on the bottom of the keg..   Here is what it looks like after all my efforts. 
(http://s12.postimg.org/s1i2fieil/20160330_204848.jpg)

Unfortunately I can't comment on how to do whirlpooling as I don't do it myself. I do however have a pair of those 2.75kw elements in my own boil kettle and I reckon you have two much power going on in your boil kettle. I have a pair of power regulator like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-3800W-AC-0-220V-Voltage-Regulator-Dimming-Light-Lamps-Speed-Control-/331012329594?. They basically allow me to dial the power to the heating elements back like you would with an electrical ring on a cooker. When I get a good rolling boil going then I slowly reduce the power on both the elements to about 60%. This allows me to retain a good rolling boil and also means I don't loose a lot of my volume to evaporation. If you don't have one of these try to use a single element. You might want to add more insulation to your kettle to make sure that you get as much out of your single element as possible. You don't mention whether you have a fan going that might be causing you to loose more to evaporation but if you do you could try reduce the speed of the fan.

With respect to Backer I finally blinked and rang them yesterday. They said that the order was not released as they had not done a production run. I got the impression that either they forgot about the order or else were waiting until they got more orders and they ran a batch. They rang me back later in the day and confirmed that they had actually dispatched the order. They also sent me on a copy of the invoice via email so I don't stung for a 2nd parcel motel visit (thanks for that tip :)). Hope to get it over the next day or two.

If you do get those voltage regulator I would advise you get them put in a reasonably sized junction box with some kind of ventilation holes as they generate a fair amount of heat. Also might not be a bad idea to get a sparks to wire them up.

Shanna

6L is my usual boil off for what I consider a proper rolling boil. Also a kegglehas about 5L kg dead space in the bottom where the hops will gather, so your losses sound about right to me.

Quote from: molc on March 30, 2016, 10:40:24 PM
6L is my usual boil off for what I consider a proper rolling boil. Also a kegglehas about 5L kg dead space in the bottom where the hops will gather, so your losses sound about right to me.

But you have that jet engine fan that I would imagine is heavily contributing to your loss through the sheer amount of vapour its drawing off :)

Shanna

Quite true, though it was always over 5L even before the beast was installed :)

I only run it on 50% usually. There was an incident of it on full blast and a hop addition being sprayed over the garden...

I have just started a Keggle build myself.
I have almost completed the amsh tun , with a bottom drain and false bottom.
I am about to start the boil kettle it self and I am wondering about the merits of a bottom drain v side drain before i drill any holes.
I dont have a false bottom or anything for it, but i have a length of SS braid which i am thinking of using.
What are the pros and cons of teh different methods?

I bottom drain my HLT keggle. As you might have seen on this thread.

What I like about it is if I tip 2 L of water into it, I get 2 L out of it, without trying to work out what might dribble out from a dead space.

I cant see it work well in a boil kettle because of the trub issue.          Although i'm leaving a load of beer behind, I also leave the crap behind also..   Im guessing it will result in clear(er) beer. 

I would not bother with that dip pipe from flexi stainless from woodies either.  The ribs in the inside tend to catch hop leaves and block up a full load of chilled wort. 

a proper short stainless dip tube  is next on the purchase list for me.


Buy the way.  For bottom draining.. 
I found that  a normal stick welder (from ALdi) with steel rods welds framework onto the bottom of your keg just fine.  No need to pay out for a tig welder and a SS guy.   

You do need to dab a bit of paint onto the weld though as they will rust.


   

An ongoing problem I was having was pouring out the junk after a brew day, and after that cleaning.   

It was messy and the insulation was trapping sticky sweet wort and dampness.   Hardly sanitary. 

So insulation is gone.  Don't need it with two 2750w elements anyway.  Those things can cook... 

Pouring cut outs work well.  Without cutting the whole rim off

(http://s32.postimg.org/6cpm6ytg5/P1020241.jpg)
(http://s32.postimg.org/todpw27px/P1020245.jpg)
(http://s32.postimg.org/xilx0q3kl/keggy.jpg)

That could be fun on a boilover through if you were doing a big quantity as that lip naturally throws foam back into the vessel on a boil?
I know what you mean though they can be unwieldy feckers.
I used to just tip out the worst and then invert and blast with a hose to get rid of the rest

I clean mine in place. When chilling, I collect the warmed water in the MT, then pump it into the BK for cleaning in about 3 lots. Throw in some W5 and a scrubbie and clean, then pump everything out to the sink. No lifting and no mess :)

Clean in place is the best for this type of setup. :)

The problem is the big deadspace.     I have 4L of crap that gets stuck in the tap.  No pumps.   Now I can just dump it into the sink.  Fill with the recycled warm water from the chiller, and leave outside in w5 for the night.
This works for me, and have been thinking of doing it for a while now.   

I got this 90 degree bend from alibaba , after ordering it 5 years ago it came promptly last week.  ;D    Its a great job.   Im going to grind off the external threads and polish for better hygiene.     

The other flexi pipe from Woodies is no good.  Grime trap. 

(http://s32.postimg.org/eimpgbexh/P1020252.jpg)

Next on the list is stainless ring nuts.   

Quote from: Motorbikeman on April 29, 2016, 05:01:42 PM
The problem is the big deadspace.     I have 4L of crap that gets stuck in the tap.  No pumps.   Now I can just dump it into the sink.  Fill with the recycled warm water from the chiller, and leave outside in w5 for the night.
This works for me, and have been thinking of doing it for a while now.   

I got this 90 degree bend from alibaba , after ordering it 5 years ago it came promptly last week.  ;D    Its a great job.   Im going to grind off the external threads and polish for better hygiene.     

The other flexi pipe from Woodies is no good.  Grime trap. 

(http://s32.postimg.org/eimpgbexh/P1020252.jpg)

Next on the list is stainless ring nuts.

If you find a source of those stainless nuts cheaper than the £10 others paid for them would you please post it here?

Many thanks,

Shanna

You won't if they are truly stainless ☹️

Quote from: CH on April 29, 2016, 07:58:00 PM
You won't if they are truly stainless ☹️

High way robbery for that sized nut :)

Shanna

Quote from: Shanna on April 29, 2016, 08:47:22 PM

Quote from: CH on April 29, 2016, 07:58:00 PM
You won't if they are truly stainless ☹️

High way robbery for that sized nut :)

Shanna

As a former lathe turner the price is about right for them TBH. 
They are probably turned out of 60mm  316 stainless bar, probably  done in small batches on a capstan or cnc.
    That all needs sent to a milling machine for the teeth to be cut. 
As its hard to cut compared to mild steel, the price of the 316 stainless and the extra time needed, they are worth about 3+ times the cost of the  mild steel type. 

Sadly.   

Quote from: Motorbikeman on April 29, 2016, 11:06:29 PM

Quote from: Shanna on April 29, 2016, 08:47:22 PM

Quote from: CH on April 29, 2016, 07:58:00 PM
You won't if they are truly stainless ☹️

High way robbery for that sized nut :)

Shanna

As a former lathe turner the price is about right for them TBH. 
They are probably turned out of 60mm  316 stainless bar, probably  done in small batches on a capstan or cnc.
    That all needs sent to a milling machine for the teeth to be cut. 
As its hard to cut compared to mild steel, the price of the 316 stainless and the extra time needed, they are worth about 3+ times the cost of the  mild steel type. 

Sadly.   

I stand corrected, will just have to pucker up :(.

Shanna

Quote from: Shanna on March 30, 2016, 10:22:18 PM

Unfortunately I can't comment on how to do whirlpooling as I don't do it myself. I do however have a pair of those 2.75kw elements in my own boil kettle and I reckon you have two much power going on in your boil kettle. I have a pair of power regulator like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-3800W-AC-0-220V-Voltage-Regulator-Dimming-Light-Lamps-Speed-Control-/331012329594?. They basically allow me to dial the power to the heating elements back like you would with an electrical ring on a cooker. When I get a good rolling boil going then I slowly reduce the power on both the elements to about 60%. This allows me to retain a good rolling boil and also means I don't loose a lot of my volume to evaporation. If you don't have one of these try to use a single element. You might want to add more insulation to your kettle to make sure that you get as much out of your single element as possible. You don't mention whether you have a fan going that might be causing you to loose more to evaporation but if you do you could try reduce the speed of the fan.

If you do get those voltage regulator I would advise you get them put in a reasonably sized junction box with some kind of ventilation holes as they generate a fair amount of heat. Also might not be a bad idea to get a sparks to wire them up.

Shanna

Hey Shanna,

Any chance you could post a pic of your voltage reg/junction box set-up? Got a couple of those regs a while back and not too sure how to go about fitting them yet...

Quote from: Kevin O'Roundwood on May 03, 2016, 12:18:00 PM

Quote from: Shanna on March 30, 2016, 10:22:18 PM

Unfortunately I can't comment on how to do whirlpooling as I don't do it myself. I do however have a pair of those 2.75kw elements in my own boil kettle and I reckon you have two much power going on in your boil kettle. I have a pair of power regulator like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-3800W-AC-0-220V-Voltage-Regulator-Dimming-Light-Lamps-Speed-Control-/331012329594?. They basically allow me to dial the power to the heating elements back like you would with an electrical ring on a cooker. When I get a good rolling boil going then I slowly reduce the power on both the elements to about 60%. This allows me to retain a good rolling boil and also means I don't loose a lot of my volume to evaporation. If you don't have one of these try to use a single element. You might want to add more insulation to your kettle to make sure that you get as much out of your single element as possible. You don't mention whether you have a fan going that might be causing you to loose more to evaporation but if you do you could try reduce the speed of the fan.

If you do get those voltage regulator I would advise you get them put in a reasonably sized junction box with some kind of ventilation holes as they generate a fair amount of heat. Also might not be a bad idea to get a sparks to wire them up.

Shanna

Hey Shanna,

Any chance you could post a pic of your voltage reg/junction box set-up? Got a couple of those regs a while back and not too sure how to go about fitting them yet...

Kevin I had an electrician fit them for me. He put them in a sealed box to stop me tampering with them as the electrician was a brother of mine. I will see if I can open it & will take some photos. Send me a pm directly with your mail address & I will send them on to you. As I did not wire them up I don't want to post it for public consumption as I can't answer questions on how the wiring works. Disclaimer also if you copy it & it blows up, electrocutes you or fries the regulators then it's on your own back. Is that agreed?

Shanna

Quote from: Shanna on May 03, 2016, 07:58:45 PM

Quote from: Kevin O'Roundwood on May 03, 2016, 12:18:00 PM

Quote from: Shanna on March 30, 2016, 10:22:18 PM

Unfortunately I can't comment on how to do whirlpooling as I don't do it myself. I do however have a pair of those 2.75kw elements in my own boil kettle and I reckon you have two much power going on in your boil kettle. I have a pair of power regulator like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-3800W-AC-0-220V-Voltage-Regulator-Dimming-Light-Lamps-Speed-Control-/331012329594?. They basically allow me to dial the power to the heating elements back like you would with an electrical ring on a cooker. When I get a good rolling boil going then I slowly reduce the power on both the elements to about 60%. This allows me to retain a good rolling boil and also means I don't loose a lot of my volume to evaporation. If you don't have one of these try to use a single element. You might want to add more insulation to your kettle to make sure that you get as much out of your single element as possible. You don't mention whether you have a fan going that might be causing you to loose more to evaporation but if you do you could try reduce the speed of the fan.

If you do get those voltage regulator I would advise you get them put in a reasonably sized junction box with some kind of ventilation holes as they generate a fair amount of heat. Also might not be a bad idea to get a sparks to wire them up.

Shanna

Hey Shanna,

Any chance you could post a pic of your voltage reg/junction box set-up? Got a couple of those regs a while back and not too sure how to go about fitting them yet...

Kevin I had an electrician fit them for me. He put them in a sealed box to stop me tampering with them as the electrician was a brother of mine. I will see if I can open it & will take some photos. Send me a pm directly with your mail address & I will send them on to you. As I did not wire them up I don't want to post it for public consumption as I can't answer questions on how the wiring works. Disclaimer also if you copy it & it blows up, electrocutes you or fries the regulators then it's on your own back. Is that agreed?

Shanna

Just tried to open it up there but it is secured using sunken screws. Don't have a long enough screwdriver handy to open it up. If I get a chance later I will see if I can find something to crack it open.

Shanna

I think your brother is trying to protect you from yourself. Don't open it! :)

Quote from: molc on May 03, 2016, 09:05:53 PM
I think your brother is trying to protect you from yourself. Don't open it! :)

Too late opened it up & spent 10 minutes trying to close it. Major concern is the wiring does not touch one of the heat sinks. Amazing how much shite ends up inside it.

Shanna

Hehhehe. Now stay away before you break it or yourself. :P Power is always the one thing that freaks me out a bit.

Quote from: molc on May 03, 2016, 10:16:30 PM
Hehhehe. Now stay away before you break it or yourself. :P Power is always the one thing that freaks me out a bit.

Me too, it is easy to under spec wiring, over draw power etc. Had a child hood experience from an unearthed bed side light that literally threw me across the roomom. Don't remember much about it except thinking jeez that hurts. Gave me a life long respect of what it can do.

Shanna

Yeah stuck my finger in a light bulb holder once or twice as a kid. Learned my lesson. I still manage to overheat cables the odd time on a very long brewday. Going to need to get a proper circuit installed eventually to replace the extension leads.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Good man Shanna, had I known it was going to be that tricky I would've said not to bother! Thanks though!

I've a buddy an electrician, I've been keeping him in homebrew for any AC wiring cos I too am terrified of the stuff after being blown across the kitchen when I was a gasur...  :o Dangerous stuff...

Kevin I'll show you mine luv

Quote from: Kevin O'Roundwood on May 03, 2016, 11:51:58 PM
Good man Shanna, had I known it was going to be that tricky I would've said not to bother! Thanks though!

I've a buddy an electrician, I've been keeping him in homebrew for any AC wiring cos I too am terrified of the stuff after being blown across the kitchen when I was a gasur...  :o Dangerous stuff...

Got your pm & sent you mail with brief description & photos.

Shanna

Thanks all round lads - John, Shanna's would put your filthy yolk to shame  :P

A friend of mine asked me how to get set up with keggles so I wrote him an email with links to everything I have bought to get started.
This came from advise I received on this thread. 

He has been brewing kits for years and has loads of kit brewing equipment already.

  As a summary , I thought it might be handy for others looking to get going with all grain.   

So here it is copied and pasted. 

To build one keggle to get you going for your first brew.

I got my elements from here.  The 2700w type are what you want.  You will need to find two different ring circuits in your home to run 2 at a time.  There may be two 32 amp circuits in your kitchen.  You can find them with a couple of table lamps while flipping trips switches at your house breaker box.. http://www.heatingelementcompany.co.uk/default.asp?Product=287   
leads for those elements.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SWAN-Catering-Kettle-Plug-Socket-Connector-Cable-Lead-13-Amp-Round-3-Pin-/191508394853?hash=item2c96ca3365:g:KHYAAOSw6EhUOAEE

You also need a couple of KM8 lock nuts to secure the element to the keggle . They will rust in a few months so be prepared to remove and service.   Stainless lock nuts will cost around 10+ euro each. 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-KM8-Lock-Nut-KM8-Locknut-KM-8-40x58x9mm-Pack-of-5-With-Free-P-P-/161085394175?hash=item2581700cff:g:1rsAAOSwNSxU0BbV

Try and keep everything stainless as steel with rust and the wort turns copper black and horrible.
http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/stainless-steel-kettle-weldless-bulkhead-12-npt-p-2562.html

If you go copper you will buy twice..

http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/90-degree-inner-threaded-elbow-12-inch-npt-p-3173.html

1/2" ball valve from woodies is only a fiver.

You could try and fit this onto the end of the 90 elbow, but I never needed one because I use a hop spider.    http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/bazooka-screen-6-inch-p-1663.html

One of these is very handy also. 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Weldless-Thermometer-2-Long-Home-Brewing-All-Grain-Boiler-Mash-Tun-HLT-/171928429780?hash=item2807bba4d4:g:Qp4AAOSwNSxVQ4Y~

I got one of these which is great, but paint strainer bags from the home brew company will work out cheaper.
http://www.bridgewaterbrewing.co.uk/hop-spiders.html

Search for a 40mm stainless steel drill/hole saw.  These are cheap but you may be waiting a month for them
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-45mm-Carbide-Tip-Tool-Cutter-Stainless-Steel-HSS-Drill-Bit-Hole-Saw-Holesaw-/291658252225?var=590692412491&hash=item43e82fbfc1:m:meQyh_EQB4seXPCUFoCS2Bg

http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/12-npt-male-x-12-barb-straight-hose-fitting-p-2578.html

A few feet of 1/2 silicon tubing is also very handy. 


Cooler Mash Tun. (if not doing Brew In A Bag Setup)
Any 32L cooler. 
http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/bazooka-screen-12-inch-p-1662.html
http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/stainless-steel-cooler-weldless-bulkhead-12-npt-p-2563.html
Woodies 1/2" ball valve
Spare  food grade washers http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/cooler-weldless-bulkhead-oring-set-p-2575.html


You should also get an immersion chiller ..  These can vary in cost and can be had second hand 

http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/immersion-wort-chiller-copper-coil-p-52.html

A parcel motel account is needed for all the ebay stuff . Also check out alliexpress for bits and bobs if you dont mind waiting a month.


Most brew companies give a 5-10% discount if you join the National homebrew club .   Saving you money and gaining you great advise from seasoned brewers.

For grain is hard to beat pre crushed grain from the homebrew company or the custom brew builder for geterbrewed.ie

It can be pricy to get going but once you have a working quality system using kegs the money spends stops, (LOLOL)

Or you could get a grainfather and save you building anything.   http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/the-grain-brother-brewing-system-p-3310.html


This is how I built mine through trial and error. It works perfectly for me and is very engaging to brew with.
I now have 2 keggles with one used just for  clean hot water, but it's not essential as you can use a bucket for  collecting your first runnings from the mash tun, leaving the keggle free to heat sparge water.