Advise on a keggle build.

[Motorbikeman]

The problem is the big deadspace.     I have 4L of crap that gets stuck in the tap.  No pumps.   Now I can just dump it into the sink.  Fill with the recycled warm water from the chiller, and leave outside in w5 for the night.
This works for me, and have been thinking of doing it for a while now.   

I got this 90 degree bend from alibaba , after ordering it 5 years ago it came promptly last week.      Its a great job.   Im going to grind off the external threads and polish for better hygiene.     

The other flexi pipe from Woodies is no good.  Grime trap. 



Next on the list is stainless ring nuts.   

[Shanna]

The problem is the big deadspace.     I have 4L of crap that gets stuck in the tap.  No pumps.   Now I can just dump it into the sink.  Fill with the recycled warm water from the chiller, and leave outside in w5 for the night.
This works for me, and have been thinking of doing it for a while now.   

I got this 90 degree bend from alibaba , after ordering it 5 years ago it came promptly last week.      Its a great job.   Im going to grind off the external threads and polish for better hygiene.     

The other flexi pipe from Woodies is no good.  Grime trap. 



Next on the list is stainless ring nuts.

If you find a source of those stainless nuts cheaper than the £10 others paid for them would you please post it here?

Many thanks,

Shanna

[Leann ull]

You won't if they are truly stainless ☹️

[Shanna]

You won't if they are truly stainless ☹️

High way robbery for that sized nut

Shanna

[Motorbikeman]

You won't if they are truly stainless ☹️

High way robbery for that sized nut

Shanna

As a former lathe turner the price is about right for them TBH. 
They are probably turned out of 60mm  316 stainless bar, probably  done in small batches on a capstan or cnc.
    That all needs sent to a milling machine for the teeth to be cut. 
As its hard to cut compared to mild steel, the price of the 316 stainless and the extra time needed, they are worth about 3+ times the cost of the  mild steel type. 

Sadly.   

[Shanna]

You won't if they are truly stainless ☹️

High way robbery for that sized nut

Shanna

As a former lathe turner the price is about right for them TBH. 
They are probably turned out of 60mm  316 stainless bar, probably  done in small batches on a capstan or cnc.
    That all needs sent to a milling machine for the teeth to be cut. 
As its hard to cut compared to mild steel, the price of the 316 stainless and the extra time needed, they are worth about 3+ times the cost of the  mild steel type. 

Sadly.   

I stand corrected, will just have to pucker up .

Shanna

[Kevin O'Roundwood]

Unfortunately I can't comment on how to do whirlpooling as I don't do it myself. I do however have a pair of those 2.75kw elements in my own boil kettle and I reckon you have two much power going on in your boil kettle. I have a pair of power regulator like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-3800W-AC-0-220V-Voltage-Regulator-Dimming-Light-Lamps-Speed-Control-/331012329594?. They basically allow me to dial the power to the heating elements back like you would with an electrical ring on a cooker. When I get a good rolling boil going then I slowly reduce the power on both the elements to about 60%. This allows me to retain a good rolling boil and also means I don't loose a lot of my volume to evaporation. If you don't have one of these try to use a single element. You might want to add more insulation to your kettle to make sure that you get as much out of your single element as possible. You don't mention whether you have a fan going that might be causing you to loose more to evaporation but if you do you could try reduce the speed of the fan.

If you do get those voltage regulator I would advise you get them put in a reasonably sized junction box with some kind of ventilation holes as they generate a fair amount of heat. Also might not be a bad idea to get a sparks to wire them up.

Shanna

Hey Shanna,

Any chance you could post a pic of your voltage reg/junction box set-up? Got a couple of those regs a while back and not too sure how to go about fitting them yet...

[Shanna]

Unfortunately I can't comment on how to do whirlpooling as I don't do it myself. I do however have a pair of those 2.75kw elements in my own boil kettle and I reckon you have two much power going on in your boil kettle. I have a pair of power regulator like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-3800W-AC-0-220V-Voltage-Regulator-Dimming-Light-Lamps-Speed-Control-/331012329594?. They basically allow me to dial the power to the heating elements back like you would with an electrical ring on a cooker. When I get a good rolling boil going then I slowly reduce the power on both the elements to about 60%. This allows me to retain a good rolling boil and also means I don't loose a lot of my volume to evaporation. If you don't have one of these try to use a single element. You might want to add more insulation to your kettle to make sure that you get as much out of your single element as possible. You don't mention whether you have a fan going that might be causing you to loose more to evaporation but if you do you could try reduce the speed of the fan.

If you do get those voltage regulator I would advise you get them put in a reasonably sized junction box with some kind of ventilation holes as they generate a fair amount of heat. Also might not be a bad idea to get a sparks to wire them up.

Shanna

Hey Shanna,

Any chance you could post a pic of your voltage reg/junction box set-up? Got a couple of those regs a while back and not too sure how to go about fitting them yet...

Kevin I had an electrician fit them for me. He put them in a sealed box to stop me tampering with them as the electrician was a brother of mine. I will see if I can open it & will take some photos. Send me a pm directly with your mail address & I will send them on to you. As I did not wire them up I don't want to post it for public consumption as I can't answer questions on how the wiring works. Disclaimer also if you copy it & it blows up, electrocutes you or fries the regulators then it's on your own back. Is that agreed?

Shanna

[Shanna]

Unfortunately I can't comment on how to do whirlpooling as I don't do it myself. I do however have a pair of those 2.75kw elements in my own boil kettle and I reckon you have two much power going on in your boil kettle. I have a pair of power regulator like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-3800W-AC-0-220V-Voltage-Regulator-Dimming-Light-Lamps-Speed-Control-/331012329594?. They basically allow me to dial the power to the heating elements back like you would with an electrical ring on a cooker. When I get a good rolling boil going then I slowly reduce the power on both the elements to about 60%. This allows me to retain a good rolling boil and also means I don't loose a lot of my volume to evaporation. If you don't have one of these try to use a single element. You might want to add more insulation to your kettle to make sure that you get as much out of your single element as possible. You don't mention whether you have a fan going that might be causing you to loose more to evaporation but if you do you could try reduce the speed of the fan.

If you do get those voltage regulator I would advise you get them put in a reasonably sized junction box with some kind of ventilation holes as they generate a fair amount of heat. Also might not be a bad idea to get a sparks to wire them up.

Shanna

Hey Shanna,

Any chance you could post a pic of your voltage reg/junction box set-up? Got a couple of those regs a while back and not too sure how to go about fitting them yet...

Kevin I had an electrician fit them for me. He put them in a sealed box to stop me tampering with them as the electrician was a brother of mine. I will see if I can open it & will take some photos. Send me a pm directly with your mail address & I will send them on to you. As I did not wire them up I don't want to post it for public consumption as I can't answer questions on how the wiring works. Disclaimer also if you copy it & it blows up, electrocutes you or fries the regulators then it's on your own back. Is that agreed?

Shanna

Just tried to open it up there but it is secured using sunken screws. Don't have a long enough screwdriver handy to open it up. If I get a chance later I will see if I can find something to crack it open.

Shanna

[molc]

I think your brother is trying to protect you from yourself. Don't open it!

[Shanna]

I think your brother is trying to protect you from yourself. Don't open it!

Too late opened it up & spent 10 minutes trying to close it. Major concern is the wiring does not touch one of the heat sinks. Amazing how much shite ends up inside it.

Shanna

[molc]

Hehhehe. Now stay away before you break it or yourself. Power is always the one thing that freaks me out a bit.

[Shanna]

Hehhehe. Now stay away before you break it or yourself. Power is always the one thing that freaks me out a bit.

Me too, it is easy to under spec wiring, over draw power etc. Had a child hood experience from an unearthed bed side light that literally threw me across the roomom. Don't remember much about it except thinking jeez that hurts. Gave me a life long respect of what it can do.

Shanna

[molc]

Yeah stuck my finger in a light bulb holder once or twice as a kid. Learned my lesson. I still manage to overheat cables the odd time on a very long brewday. Going to need to get a proper circuit installed eventually to replace the extension leads.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[Kevin O'Roundwood]

Good man Shanna, had I known it was going to be that tricky I would've said not to bother! Thanks though!

I've a buddy an electrician, I've been keeping him in homebrew for any AC wiring cos I too am terrified of the stuff after being blown across the kitchen when I was a gasur...  Dangerous stuff...