Looking for 2 of them with the notches. Tried charlie shiels with no luck. Anywhere else?
The HBC have them, but they're pricey...
Have plenty of them, but without the notches.
I got mine in an electrical store on Talbot street, cant remember what I paid but it was far cheaper than the brewing shop.
Weirdly the guy in the shop didn't know about the notch so make sure to double check that they have one.
Local recycle centre delzep? :o
Quote from: shiny on July 24, 2013, 04:46:15 PM
I got mine in an electrical store on Talbot street, cant remember what I paid but it was far cheaper than the brewing shop.
Weirdly the guy in the shop didn't know about the notch so make sure to double check that they have one.
Whereabouts on talbot st?
Do b&q sell them?
wallace in waterford is where I got mine - not much help if your inside the pale - but if your really stuck I can get them and post em to ya ????
think they were @ a fiver a piece - not sure - its been a while :-\
Quote from: newToBrew on July 25, 2013, 12:12:03 AM
wallace in waterford is where I got mine - not much help if your inside the pale - but if your really stuck I can get them and post em to ya ????
think they were @ a fiver a piece - not sure - its been a while :-\
Where in waterford is this Wallace place? I'll be in Waterford over the next couple of weeks & could pick them up for Delzep.
I could hit Waterford in the morning and get those if someone tells me where wallaces is?
Find city square shopping centre - its the only shopping mall in town centre Wallace is across the road - they do bric bracc - electric spares - touch up photos
City squares easy to find and from that you can't miss wallaces
It s directly across from the river island entrance
I know the place you mean now, used to be a couple of old dears selling farmhouse butter near there ages ago.
Dropped in earlier when I was in town they hadn't got them in stock - didn't say when he'd have em in again - said they were @ 7 quid
Quote from: delzep on July 24, 2013, 04:16:37 PM
Looking for 2 of them with the notches. Tried charlie shiels with no luck. Anywhere else?
Delzep -
This is a C15/C16 IEC cable - its like the common C13/C14 IEC cable, but is rated to 120C rather than 70C ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_connector#C15.2FC16_coupler )
Do you really need the 120C rating ?
I have to say I have been guilty of cutting notches into the C13/14 cables before.
I can give you a couple of the standard C13/14 if you want them.
::) A C13 was not designed for this purpose. It is not rated for this type of use and should not be used. Also, it is not just the connector but the cable itself that should be able to carry the correct load for the duration of the boil. I know some of you may have been using pc leads for years, but check the cable and it will probably be a heavy duty cable. A cable for a pc with a 1000W+ power supply, which used to be common, would be heavier than a cable for a pc with a 200W supply, which is now common. PC suppliers will bundle a cable suitable for their needs, not yours. If you buy a cheap lead and burn your house down, will you turn to your wife and say " At least we saved €5 on the leads" ? You need a C15 connector for a kettle element, and it need to have a lead capable of carrying the load for an hour or more. That is why they come up with these standards, to protect you, not to rip you off. Do we really want the type of press that could be generated when some poor bastard burns himself and says he was told by someone here that it would be fine? Sorry for the rant but I don't want to sit back and let someone get hurt.
Quote from: Metattron on July 26, 2013, 10:44:22 PM
::) A C13 was not designed for this purpose. It is not rated for this type of use and should not be used. Also, it is not just the connector but the cable itself that should be able to carry the correct load for the duration of the boil. I know some of you may have been using pc leads for years, but check the cable and it will probably be a heavy duty cable. A cable for a pc with a 1000W+ power supply, which used to be common, would be heavier than a cable for a pc with a 200W supply, which is now common. PC suppliers will bundle a cable suitable for their needs, not yours. If you buy a cheap lead and burn your house down, will you turn to your wife and say " At least we saved €5 on the leads" ? You need a C15 connector for a kettle element, and it need to have a lead capable of carrying the load for an hour or more. That is why they come up with these standards, to protect you, not to rip you off. Do we really want the type of press that could be generated when some poor bastard burns himself and says he was told by someone here that it would be fine? Sorry for the rant but I don't want to sit back and let someone get hurt.
I fully agree! I don't know what the words all mean but I know that a pc cable is hardly going to contain more than the minimum safe amount of copper required for its purpose.
In other rant news, stop hacking kettles and pay the extra couple of € to get yourself a sealed kettle element from your electrical supplier!
Quote from: Padraic on July 27, 2013, 07:53:37 AM
In other rant news, stop hacking kettles and pay the extra couple of € to get yourself a sealed kettle element from your electrical supplier!
I did that and all they had was the connector in stock...not the lead that goes into the connector!
Quote from: delzep on July 27, 2013, 01:58:44 PM
Quote from: Padraic on July 27, 2013, 07:53:37 AM
In other rant news, stop hacking kettles and pay the extra couple of € to get yourself a sealed kettle element from your electrical supplier!
I did that and all they had was the connector in stock...not the lead that goes into the connector!
The connector is handy enough to wire and I'm sure you've seen the inside of a plug at some point!
Sorry 1.0 mm2 is typically rated at 10 Amps.
Use 1.5mm2 (16 Amps). To be sure to be sure!
And if you use a 13 Amp (as most do by default) fuse your cable can catch fire!!
A typical fuse blows at 100% overload so your little 10 amp cable may be carrying 26 Amps ???
A fuse protects the cable from a short circuit caused somewhere in the cable ar at the equipment at the end.
You always pick the fuse rating to match the cable/flexible.
Quote from: Padraic on July 27, 2013, 07:53:37 AM
In other rant news, stop hacking kettles and pay the extra couple of € to get yourself a sealed kettle element from your electrical supplier!
And for balance there are no exposed wires or danger of electrocution or short out on my hacked argos kettle :P
However like anything involving water and electricity just be confident in what you are doing.
(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj605/joctcl/IMG_1720_zps9c338f55.jpg) (http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/joctcl/media/IMG_1720_zps9c338f55.jpg.html)
Watts = amps × volts
Would a 26 amps ampliance not suggest something that consume 5.7kws of power? My hlt has a 5.5 kw heating element connected to a dedicated socket and a 30kw fuse. Just in padding it is earthed to the edge of the pot and also also is wired and mounted inside a water proof junction box using steel and plastic covered guard.
Shanna
Quote from: Will_D on July 28, 2013, 02:15:34 PM
And if you use a 13 Amp (as most do by default) fuse your cable can catch fire!!
A typical fuse blows at 100% overload so your little 10 amp cable may be carrying 26 Amps ???
A fuse protects the cable from a short circuit caused somewhere in the cable ar at the equipment at the end.
You always pick the fuse rating to match the cable/flexible.
Managed to get two kettle leads in a small hardware shop on Mary Street. Problem is they're only 1 metre long. How do I know if my extension leads can be used (one extension for each lead)
not likely, and any extension leads needs to be fully unfurled before use and run through separate sockets
I made up my own extensions using 16 amp rated cable, as my B&Q special was getting rather warm.
JD is NHC on call Resident Electrical Engineer, I'm sure he'll comment.
I must confess .. i do use a pc cable also use a bona fide kettle lead
The pc cable - no idea what its rated for - I only use it to heat my strike and sparge water and bring to the boii knock off the element with the pc lead attached once get the hot breiy does get a little warm alright
My elements are 2kW.
The cable on my extension lead says 3 x 1.25mm2
Tube has just given you a carte blanche to sue when the house burns down :)
But as he says you will be ok ;D
http://www.rospa.com/homesafety/aroundtheuk/northern-ireland/electricity/flexes-cables/flexes.aspx
dont forget to uncoil the extension lead!
I got a c15 hot condition socket in maplin for 4.50e & some heat resistant thick as fu8k cable to make my own kettle lead. Could find any pre made kettle leads in Galway city. The only problem now is the c15 connection is rated to 6 amps. Im running the HBC element with it in my HLT. Am I safe?
8.7 amps
I hated that Ohms law craic all the way through college >:(
I picked up the makings of a 5m long kettle lead in a wholesalers today. I'm looking to wire an argos element. The lad in the shop told me regular .5mm2 flex would do the job when I explained what I was doing. I just checked the original lead that came with the kettle and it's .75mm2. Will the .5 not take it?
You need a minimum of 1.0mm2 = 10amps (~2400watts).
Preferably 1.5mm2 as its being used for a continuous 1-1.5hr boil.
Remember:
1. Safety first; if you don't know get a pro in.
2. Measure twice, cut once.
3. Make sure you don't overload your house circuits with 2 elements on at same time.
4. See 1!!!
Great, thanks. Back to the shop so!