• Welcome to National Homebrew Club Ireland. Please login or sign up.
May 21, 2025, 08:49:39 PM

News:

Want to Join up ? Simply follow the instructions here
Not a forum user? Now you can join the discussion on Discord


ArdBir (formally BrewPi Spark) Herms Build

Started by molc, July 01, 2015, 03:09:24 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

molc

The bolt was stupid, it's a round and takes an Allen key, which of course isn't strong enough to give good torgue. The vice grips destroyed the head but at least it got it opened again.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

Will_D

You won't find anything suitable in Woodies or a diy shop.

You need a high tensile cap head screw. Best place is All Metal Fastners (next to M50 and N2 - North Park)

Also when using q-max cutter use a really good oil or grease on the threads!
Remember: The Nationals are just round the corner - time to get brewing

armedcor

How long was your Allen key? I used one of those stupidly long ones with an extension handle. Job done.

molc

The Allen key isn't too long, but I'm able to put a bar on it. Used the dip tube from the keg for torque today on the last hole which worked pretty well, though I can see the same damage starting on the bolt with the other cutter as well. Broke another drill it in the process too. Teach me to get shoddy tools.:)

Anyway, that's all the holes in the boil kettle done. Will repair the hole cutter (thanks for the info will) for the HLT next month, but in the meantime I'm going to cleanup and finish the boil kettle for my next brew.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

molc

First brewday since the pumps arrived from the groupbuy and I got my new brewing table all setup. Thought an action pic might be appropriate, as I sit here twiddling my thumbs and the herms does all the work.
It's still a manual herms, but it ammounts to setting temp on hlt to +2 target and just sitting back.

Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

Leann ull


molc

Spoke too soon. Damn 2.8kw element keeps tripping the fusebox, so now I'm booking in the hlt for this batch. Going to be a bitch to clean. Looks like I need to do some electrical work before the next time I try and use this.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

Leann ull

Use an extension lead to another line in the house it will get you out of trouble today just make sure it's unfurled
I trip my shed out with 2.7x2 and the tumble drier on!
What else are you running? Kettle washing machine?

molc

Trips the extension lead to another circuit as well as well. Nothing else on in the house. I'll check for a short in the circuit and any water when I strip it down.

I have a 2.5kw element that was destined for the hlt that I'll swap in for the next brew.
My new, less intensive setup, while repairs are ongoing. The bucket at the bottom is what I'm losing after moving away from the keggle :)
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

armedcor

Oh no! I was just about to pull the plug on one of those element.

molc

Quote from: armedcor on September 05, 2015, 03:45:39 PM
Oh no! I was just about to pull the plug on one of those element.
Don't lose hope yet, I think I just cocked up the installation of the element. Looks like the wire wrapped around itself when I screwed flit together and just burned itself out. Will give it another go after I rewire on a test 60 min water boil.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

armedcor

Ah OK great! I really like the idea of the camco style element especially in all stainless. Was gonna use it in my new build.

Sorcerers Apprentice

The direction of the twist on the cable would suggest that this was done removing the cover without opening the cable gland first, so is a seperate issue to the loose connection.
I would suggest getting some heat proof flex and using this for the final connection to the heater rather than the solid NYMJ cable which you are using. You will get a better connection with the spade connectors with flexible cable rather than with solid core cable and therefore minimise this problem re occurring
There's no such thing as bad beer - some just taste better than others

molc

Quote from: Sorcerers Apprentice on September 07, 2015, 10:07:01 AM
The direction of the twist on the cable would suggest that this was done removing the cover without opening the cable gland first, so is a seperate issue to the loose connection.
I would suggest getting some heat proof flex and using this for the final connection to the heater rather than the solid NYMJ cable which you are using. You will get a better connection with the spade connectors with flexible cable rather than with solid core cable and therefore minimise this problem re occurring

Lefty loosey, righty tight? As in, the coiling is from turning the backplate clockwise, which is when you tighten it, which means the gland was already fitted and coiled the cable with it. As a result, the wires are coiled and overheating. Have I missed something?

Regardless, I think your cabling suggestion is spot on. This wire is very stiff and a bitch to bend into the fitting, which is meaning it's getting damaged when I tighten, as it's very easy to cut the insulation when I fit the enclosure. I'll take a look for that flexi wire. Thanks!

Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

Leann ull

SA what about a reverse twist and  then when it's screwed in its relaxed and not twisted?