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ArdBir (formally BrewPi Spark) Herms Build

Started by molc, July 01, 2015, 03:09:24 PM

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Sorcerers Apprentice

I would connect the element up first put on the cover and last tighten the gland then only connect the other end of the cable when the element has been screwed into it's threaded fitting. Better still buy an inline socket to make removal of the element easier in future, just unplug the cable and let the whole lot spin as you unscrew the element for cleaning etc.
Molc my point about the rotation of the cable is that the twist was made either unscrewing the element or the element cover (if it is threaded) the twist on the cable is anti clockwise which was made removing the element not installing it (which would have left the cable twisted clockwise.)
There's no such thing as bad beer - some just taste better than others

molc

September 07, 2015, 01:47:10 PM #76 Last Edit: September 07, 2015, 02:57:20 PM by molc
That twist in the cable is clockwise from the pic as far as I can tell. Maybe my eyes are failing me. It was def the twisted area that failed too, as it was deeply blackened from overheating. However, it also burned the edge of the stainless steel cover, in fact melted it slightly, so the cover may have cut the cable or being pressed against it.

Your points on the gland are spot in and won't be repeated. Silly mistake. Extra happy everything is earthed, as I could have gotten quite a shock otherwise.

I'll pick up the flex cable, rewire and be very careful this time around when wiring, along with a full length boil test and reinspect everything after.

EDIT: Also picked up some Neutik connectors to make detachable cables. As SA suggested, will make cleaning a hell of a lot easier.


Funny how the easiest part of the build is the one that has given the most trouble. Everything else has gone faultlessly so far.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

armedcor

I use those connectors. They're the job!

molc

Quick update. Tools arrived from aliexpress, so I could get on with work. For €12 I got a set of step bits that cut through the kegs like butter, so did the hlt and also installed my sight glasses. Calibrated one today and will do the other later. Pic shown is calibrating the boil kettle with water from the hlt, using the chugger. Amazing all the uses you find for pumps once you get one :)

Also got some insulation for both, as last brew day, I had an issue holding a rolling boil. Have a mesh splatter screen that I'll now put over the bk to let steam out and keep heat in. Should test it all this weekend.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

Sorcerers Apprentice

The trick is to not let condensation drip back into the kettle during the boil, also the bulk of the voletiles are evaporated early in the boil, so you shouldn't cover the kettle at all during the initial stages of the boil
Edit if you are using a screen to keep leaves/insects out during the boil outside, try to keep it at an angle so that any condensation runs onto the top of the keggle rather than dripping back into the brew
There's no such thing as bad beer - some just taste better than others

molc

Yup going to try keeping it at an angle so whatever condenses runs off. Also since its a screen, a lot should evoperate away as well.
Years to use this kit. Can have a few dms batches dialling it in :)
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

armedcor

Looking at the brulosophers latest exbeeriment I don't think it's that big a deal. DMS might be a problem for less modified malts like floor malted but most of our stuff these days is highly modified!

Sorcerers Apprentice

They didn't test with a lid or obstruction on the kettle, plus always bear in mind that one man's rolling  boil may not be the same as the next guys, it is important to look at boil off rate as much as boil time
There's no such thing as bad beer - some just taste better than others

armedcor

Very true. But a 30 m vs 90 m is a huge difference. Again totally agree I'd love if they did one with a lid vs no lid. Even partial lid.

molc

October 11, 2015, 09:08:58 PM #84 Last Edit: October 11, 2015, 10:11:45 PM by molc
Well the next 4 beers are all going to be with the mesh and going to the nationals, if they aren't bad.  One of them will even be a schwartzbier with pilsner malt.

So, we'll have bjcp judging of the results of this. In the interests of science, the method will be up here and I'll post if dms comes up.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

armedcor

Nice. I've a berliner weisse planned next and will probably only boil for 10/15 mins. Might even leave the lid on partially and see what happens.

Leann ull

As SA, I'd be upping your boil elements or insulating your boiler rather than restricting boil off.

armedcor

He insulated the keggle so thats covered anyway. My old system I used 2 elements and it was super fast and had a great boil off but it really is a pain having to use two different power inputs when you don't have a 30A outlet etc.

Leann ull

Molc remind us what juice you are drawing through hlt boiler hems etc

molc

Boil kettle is 2.8Kw and the hlt is 2.5kw. BK was topping out at 92C last time and it was gently rolling the surface. That was with no cover or insulation.
Both vessals are going to be insulated next batch and I have the screen as a backup option if it isn't vigorous enough.

The alternative option is to install my spare 2kw elements in both keggles, but I need to get a 37mm hole saw for that I think. They are the stand elements from THBC.

Part of all this is documenting it on here as well, so people can learn from all my mistakes.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter