So what's optimum boil?

[molc]

Here's my rolling boil - keggle with 2.8kw element and insulation ftw

Also, yet again learned my lesson about putting hops into a hop bag - I clogged the damn valve and couldn't whirlpool or use my plate chiller Really need to make a hop spider and use it in future.

https://youtu.be/OYjv5vAXg8k

[Leann ull]

Nice boil
Posted a few times about hop cones and chuggers and why I only use pellet
I thought it was a right laugh watching them travel through the silicone tubing until they blocked the pump
Leaf now I just put in a weighed down bag between elements so that there is a good flow across them
Plate chillers cold break and pellets I'm still not convinced about

[molc]

Yup, next brew I'm rebuilding the diptube to be a side pickup, as right now the flow rate gets limited by the filtering of the cold break and hops. You can't cool or whirlpool if nothing is flowing. The hop spider will keep the hops out of the way, not to mention make it a hell of a lot easier to clean after the boil. Lifting a keggle to clean it is no fun.

If that clogs the plate chiller, then I'll just build a CFC and sell on the plate chiller and lauterhexe to someone with a setup it suits.

At least at this point, it's just minor tweaks. The HLT worked a dream and the boil on the BK was a piece of cake this time.

[neoanto]

Using a berco boiler I boil off 6.5ltr/hr.
Works grand for me! I'm using hop bags with leaf and or hop pellets.

[Leann ull]

That's on the high side what's your initial volume?

[neoanto]

26.5ltrs
I have it at full tilt with the lid off.
I never tried reducing the heater setting once it started to boil.

[Sorcerers Apprentice]

We used to boil stout for minimum 45 minutes and 10% minimum boil off, ie if OG = 1.065 then desired Final Gravity post boil = 1.0715 (65 plus 10% of 65 = 65 +6.5 =71.5) (I know that this value varies due to kettle design but gives you a rough value to aim at)
I reckon gravity readings are a more accurate way of measuring for boil off rate rather than volume, as the volume increases with heat, plus with steam and foam it can be difficult to see the markings inside the kettle. I dont use a sight glass for hygienic reasons, I see them as a potential site for infection due to the difficulty in cleaning them.
One interesting observation was that during the summer the boil used to take a good bit longer than the winter due to atmospheric pressure, in the winter the boil time would be closer to the 45 min but in the summer would be around 60 mins

[Leann ull]

Fascinating stuff!
On the sight glass every second boil I run the sight glass brush through it just to clean off the scale or any crud,  there is no possibility of infection as with boiled wort in it for at least an hour everything is sterile, I'll measure the temp in mine next time.

[Will_D]

Look like Santy is Googling me up a "Digital Anemometer"

Must keep track of air pressure now!

[Sorcerers Apprentice]

That or just keep checking with your refractometer until you get the desired boil off
You would also be amazed at the difference barometric pressure makes to the Head Height in the final beer.

[Will_D]

Look like Santy is Googling me up a "Digital AnemometerBarometer"
[edit: silly bugger]

Must keep track of air pressure now!

Suppose wind speed blowing over the kettle outdoors would remove the hot staeam molecules quicker and hence speed up evaporation - need both then

Also the humidity of the surounding air will affect boil of rates as well!

In fact come to think of it a digital weather station would do the job nicely on brew day. More data to log over the boil proces.

[Leann ull]

75l of 1078 being done by 2x2.7kw

[nigel_c]

Pushing the limits of the kettle there.

[Leann ull]

Always
Whirlpool stops the boil over
She still boils down to 62 after 60 

[nigel_c]

Good thing your boiling outside. Your walls would be bleeding LME if you were inside.