DIY HLT

[BrewDorg]

Apologies for the necro bump but I'm wondering Garry if you still have the wiring diagram you used for this HLT? The link to it seems to have gone dead.

I'm in the planning stages of putting a PID into my ACE Mash Tun / Boiler and this post looks like it could be very useful.

[Garry]

I've fixed the link in the original post. You should be able to see the wiring diagram now.

[BrewDorg]

I've fixed the link in the original post. You should be able to see the wiring diagram now.

Good stuff, thanks for that. Looks exactly what I'm looking for.

[cruiscinlan]

I'm in the planning stages of putting a PID into my ACE Mash Tun / Boiler and this post looks like it could be very useful.

Don't mean to hijack your thread, but I'm planning something similar.  If you're ordering thermowells, pids etc. let me know if you want to split an order to save on shipping.

[BrewDorg]

I'm in the planning stages of putting a PID into my ACE Mash Tun / Boiler and this post looks like it could be very useful.

Don't mean to hijack your thread, but I'm planning something similar.  If you're ordering thermowells, pids etc. let me know if you want to split an order to save on shipping.

Nice one, will let you know when I'm putting the parts together. Do you have the ACE boiler too? I'm debating whether to put the controller in the skirt, or build it in an external housing and plug it in. What have you planned yourself?

[cruiscinlan]

Nice one, will let you know when I'm putting the parts together. Do you have the ACE boiler too? I'm debating whether to put the controller in the skirt, or build it in an external housing and plug it in. What have you planned yourself?

As ACE have put the price up to £119.99 ex-delivery I decided to go for this Igenix 30L boiler for £76 incl. free deliver to Norn Irn.  It looks the same as the ACE unit but I'll have to put in a S/S tap: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Igenix-IG4030-Catering-Urn-500/dp/B004VKYEHU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452533634&sr=8-1&keywords=igenix+4030

The skirt sounds like a good idea, if there's space.  I was also thinking of doing an insulation job around the body and then you could mount it on that something like the grainfather controller.  You'd have to put it in a splash proof box though as well.

[BrewDorg]

That looks the job, just needs the insulation like you say. I wish mine had a sight glass or even graduation markings.

Right so I think I've decided to put mine into the skirt. I can set it up the same as the boiler in Garry's opening post so that's dead handy. I'm going to buy this PID kit but replacing the K thermocouple with a PT100 instead. I'll also be purchasing this 5A 12V DC transformer.

I plan to drill a hole through the base of my boiler for the temp probe. Does anyone see a problem with this? I've only ever seen them mounted through the side but with the double lining on my boiler, it'd be difficult to do. I BIAB with my setup btw.

[dcalnan]

I was wondering can you replace the k type thermocouple with a pt100, in the manual for the pid it states that the model you're buying(and the one I have) is a k type input only, and I haven't seen anything to suggest that you can simply get a new thermocouple. Anyone with more experience with them able to chip in and give advice, I asked my electronic engineer brother but he wasn't certain.

[BrewDorg]

I was wondering can you replace the k type thermocouple with a pt100, in the manual for the pid it states that the model you're buying(and the one I have) is a k type input only, and I haven't seen anything to suggest that you can simply get a new thermocouple. Anyone with more experience with them able to chip in and give advice, I asked my electronic engineer brother but he wasn't certain.

There are a couple of different types of REX-C100 on eBay. The one with model number ending V*AN will be able to take a PT100, whereas the more common M*AN won't (take a look at the side of the unit in the eBay pics and on your own unit too). This post on another forum shows how the input can be changed. The only worry here is that the seller sends out the wrong type despite the model in the picture being V*AN.

I also found this very useful guide to working the REX-C100 and deciphering the various models/options it has.

[dcalnan]

Great mine ends in v*an, I spent a lot of time looking if I could do it. Now I need to buy a pt100 with the 1/2 inch fitting and longer probe and I can finally start my hlt build. Which will be using my old plastic boiler, when I upgrade that to a stainless pot.

[BrewDorg]

Worth trying it out anyway based on that thread I linked. I'll be getting this PT100, looks like what you're after too. Will need to get a gasket and a nut too. Any thoughts on putting the probe upwards through the base instead of through the side?

[darren996]

V*an is the ssr version m*an is the relay version.  The v*an is what ye need and can take a pt100 probe

[dcalnan]

I guess the bottom would be best if you're insulting it and have the skirt underneath to hide it.  I know the only way to get a more accurate reading with them is installing them in a tee fitting and have the liquid constantly flowing through it.

[Drum]

I saw a thread somewhere recently that quoted random posts from forums without any context.     Read this post again as if you haven't read the rest of the thread 

I guess the bottom would be best if you're insulting it and have the skirt underneath to hide it.  I know the only way to get a more accurate reading with them is installing them in a tee fitting and have the liquid constantly flowing through it.

Sorry daire, nothing personal that post just made me think of the other thread

[cruiscinlan]

That looks the job, just needs the insulation like you say. I wish mine had a sight glass or even graduation markings.

By the looks of it I'll have to remove the sight glass as its part of the tap assembly.  I'll have to measure the interior and mark off levels with a grinder of some sort (possibly borrow a dremel from someone).

I plan to drill a hole through the base of my boiler for the temp probe. Does anyone see a problem with this? I've only ever seen them mounted through the side but with the double lining on my boiler, it'd be difficult to do. I BIAB with my setup btw.

Cheers for the links to the kit you're getting that looks a great deal.  Why will you swop out the thermocouple?  Also are you going to get a thermowell fitting for it or put it in direct?

Only thing I can think of with putting the probe on the bottom is that perhaps the heating action of the element will put it off?  I was planning on putting mine halfway up just to get it midway between the two extremes.