Keggle Ardbir Build

[Sorcerers Apprentice]

I'm running behind on my main brewing rig so rather than delay any further, I decided to stick a BIAB Ardbir controlled Keggle together. I've cut the bottom out of the keg and inverted it, so that the spear is at the bottom. I had a 1\2" socket welded into the chime of the keg, as a bottom drain and this is positioned at the edge of the keggle, so that the whirlpool should settle the trub in the well in the centre. After a lot of fluting around I eventually bought a 3" Sanitary Ferrule, a 3" sanitary blank disk and gasket and a 3" clamp. I had this welded over spear fitting. The original idea was to use a 2 1\2" clamp and blank disk but I couldn't get to to seal properly over the spear.. This gives me a centre bottom drain to hold the trub and is easily opened by removing the sanitary clamp for cleaning.
I drilled the keg for two kettle elements and had another 1\2" socket welded into the side of the keggle about half way up to accommodate the whirlpool return.
We changed sofas lately and I removed the legs which were made of aluminium before dumping the old sofas. I used three of these legs on the keggle, and attached them by fixing a 6 mm bolt through the rim of the keg and through each leg. The legs are pulled tight against the chime of the keg and can't move. This gives me plenty of clearance for the bottom drain.
I connected a 32 amp commando type socket on the outside wall of the house directly behind the cooker switch unit in the kitchen, and replaced the original circuit breaker with a 32 amp RCBO breaker which gives the cooker circuit earth leakage protection.
I bought an electrical control panel and cut out the front to accommodate the 3d printed Ardbir cover
I mounted 3 double pole switches, one for each element and another for the pump plus three indicator lights. I used a couple of meters of Sil Flex in 3 x 6 Sq to connect the panel to the 32 amp commando plug-top
http://www.edlireland.ie/iopen24/control-cables-silflex-cables-c-0_1403_1415.html
I used Din rail to mount the connectors along with fuses, a 12v dc relay for the pump and a heat sink for the 40 amp SSR. I also mounted a trailing type flex within the panel to take the 13amp plug-top type power supply, this has a seperate 5 amp fuse. The pump is fed by another trailing 13amp socket, which is controlled by the ardbir via a 12v dc relay and isolated via a two pole switch. this circuit also has its own 5 amp fuse. I will monitor the temperature of the control panel and if necessary fit a small cooling fan.
The main 6 square supply is connected directly to the SSR and the output is fed via 2 x 2.5 sq cables through two more fuses one for each heater element.Each heater circuit is then fed through a double pole switch and a neon is connected in parallel to each heater output.
I used a cable drum as a stand and had some Unistrut lying aroundwhich I used to made a tee piece to mount the control panel. I used some Unistrut inserts (I believe they are called this but everyone calls them Zebidees after the magic roundabout due to the spring stuck to back of them)
https://app.nventree.co.uk/media/img/66006c8bb590449f9deef2cb35c60ad9/5e8200b9fa6041d1ac3e31427f81aec2/Custom800.jpg
with a couple of 6mm gutter bolts to secure the panel. It can be slid on and off for easy removal. I also mounted a thermowell to take the DS1820 thermometer. I mounted this at the same height as the elements so that it wont foul  the BIAB bag. Ill pop up some photos from my phone

[Sorcerers Apprentice]

[Leann ull]

Lovely job

[darren996]

Looking good, great build

[gazz]

Very good build, what you reckon it cost ya?

[pob]

Looks great.

[Sorcerers Apprentice]

Difficult to get much done today between the showers, I've borrowed some shiny toys from my main build project, I ran out of ptfe tape so it's off to woodies

[dcalnan]

That looks great.

[imark]

Very tidy. How are the camlock fittings attached to the counterflow?

[Motorbikeman]

How much are you expecting the project to cost.  Look great. That box is tidy. 

[Sorcerers Apprentice]

@Gazz not sure of cost of electrical items as I put them in my account in the electrical wholesalers. The cable drum was free, I bought the wheels a few months ago in the lidl centre isle. The Ardbir cost about 100 plus 20 for the 3rd printing. The 3" ferrule blank plate seal and clamp cost €30 in Total Stainless, welding cost €60. I had ordered the stainless fittings for my main 3 vessel build from Aliexpress, I had the chugger already I think it was about $130 in the states.
IMARK The Counterflow Chiller comes with 1/2" male threads

[Sorcerers Apprentice]

Detailed look at the Banana plug and socket earthing arrangement

[Sorcerers Apprentice]

Images of SWA Shrouds on the kettle connectors

[Sorcerers Apprentice]

I'll update the cost of the control box when the wholesalers reopens after Easter

[molc]

Yeah when it comes to cost on these things, a grainfather comes in very close if not cheaper. You go the DIY route because you want/enjoy building something special for yourself, not to save money. The pumps especially are a big expense, as least for chuggers.

I worked out my own build was close to €1500, but based on €3 for a bottle of craft, you've made that back in about 15 brewdays, assuming 20L batches. That's just over a year's brewing, so after that its guilt free brewing.