Hop Boiler DIY

[fizzypish]

I done a brief search for boiler on the site but I didn't see what I was looking for. Anyone make their own? I've nearly finished my mash tun and so am a step closer to the coveted all grain brew. What would the good people of the site recommend. Buy or build? I'd prefer to build but if its going to cost more than buying one there's no point. Details like what wattage of the element/s and how to safely and smartly wire it. Pit falls etc.... Any and all help appreciated?

[rukkus]

These are quite good value http://www.nisbets.ie/Buffalo-Manual-Fill-Water-Boiler/CC193/ProductDetail.raction

[JimmyM]

I use;
This bucket
http://www.homebrewwest.ie/hb-33-litre-fermenter-with-scale-lid-and-bung-for-airlock-812-p.asp

with a hole (cant remember the size im afraid) drilled in it to take a standard 2.2KW kettle element from this place
http://charlieshiels.ie/index.php?route=product/category&path=38

Cant find the exact part but if you ring them or go in and mention kettle element and homebrew - they'll almost finish your sentence for ya. (I think the cost was about 12 euro)

You can add 2 of these if you wanna reach a boil quicker - 1 does me though.
Also- you could go down the route of taking a tesco/argos kettle (about 7 euro)apart and using the element out of that - downside is that you end up with exposed electrical terminals - the charlie shiels ones are enclosed.

Then I use a 1/2 inch ball valve tap (about 5 or 6 euro) from woodies/B&Q/plumbing merchant connected to a 1/2 inch "Tank connector" which slots into the hole you will need to drill.

Ive done this twice once with tesco kettles and once with charlie shiels kettles - i have also done it with/without holesaws - so with out a holesaw you just outline the pipe or kettle element hole and cut carefully with a sharp stanley and tidy up with sand paper.

Both work perfectly.

[Ciderhead]

2 elements are better for a vigorous boil to avoid DMS especially if you intend on doing lager or pilseners

[newToBrew]

I pretty much did the same as JimmyM

bought 2 elements from a local electrical shop  I think they're 2.2 KW each

I did get one of the Argos Kettles and pulled it apart - but didn't like the way certain parts were exposed - having said that - quiet a few of the guys here use them successfully

I bought one kettle Lead  and then got a pc lead for free

I bought a 33 litre Fermentor Bucket from one of the HomeBrew Shops

Also bought a tap thingy from woodies
held the Elements/Tap  to the outside of the bucket - used a marker to trace the shape and cut with a stanley knife

Also made a few custom Washers out of a Silicone baking tray - again just trace and cut

Its served me quiet well over the last year 

All in all - you'd probably be up and running for @ 50 - 60 quid  - I found the elements to be the most expensive, if I recall correctly 

[JimmyM]

2 elements are better for a vigorous boil to avoid DMS especially if you intend on doing lager or pilseners

Well - for the size of the bucket I use (33l) there is a maximum you can boil safely - whatever about using 2 elements to reach temps quicker, using 2 during a boil would definitely be too much.

Also just a note to fizzypish - and ciderhead will be able to give you the specifics, but you cant just use any old bucket for this - the plastic has to be rated for high temps. A certain type of HDPE I think.

As i say ciderhead will probably know the specifics, but that bucket I linked to should be ok.
And new2brew mentioned cable - make sure you use a cable that is thick enough to take the current required for the element on the kettle. PC cables usually wont be thick enough - but people will say they have gotten away with it. If the cable is noticably heating up when connected up - its prob not thick enough.

Alternative options...
Do similar to above and use a pub keg instead. Its a bit more work to do the holes, and you need to get the top off with an angle grinder. But you get a bigger boiler and so can do much bigger batches.
For this you will definitely need 2 elements.

[newToBrew]

I guess you right @ the pc cable - I only use the 2 elements to bring to the boil and its always the pc lead that I knock off - it does get a little warm alright

[Shane Phelan]

As i say ciderhead will probably know the specifics, but that bucket I linked to should be ok.
And new2brew mentioned cable - make sure you use a cable that is thick enough to take the current required for the element on the kettle. PC cables usually wont be thick enough - but people will say they have gotten away with it. If the cable is noticably heating up when connected up - its prob not thick enough.

In terms of the kettle lead. See here for the comparison between the PC lead (C13/C14) and the Kettle Lead (C15/C16). They are both rated for the same current but the kettle lead is designed to handle higher temperatures. Both of my boiler elements have a notch which prevents pc leads being used. I find that the cable gets warm but the fixture/socket on the boiler gets hot to the touch so the ability of the lead to comfortably handle higher temperatures is useful here.

[JimmyM]

As i say ciderhead will probably know the specifics, but that bucket I linked to should be ok.
And new2brew mentioned cable - make sure you use a cable that is thick enough to take the current required for the element on the kettle. PC cables usually wont be thick enough - but people will say they have gotten away with it. If the cable is noticably heating up when connected up - its prob not thick enough.

In terms of the kettle lead. See here for the comparison between the PC lead (C13/C14) and the Kettle Lead (C15/C16). They are both rated for the same current but the kettle lead is designed to handle higher temperatures. Both of my boiler elements have a notch which prevents pc leads being used. I find that the cable gets warm but the fixture/socket on the boiler gets hot to the touch so the ability of the lead to comfortably handle higher temperatures is useful here.

Ok well thats the connector at the end - I was referring to the copper inside the flex. That would have to be capable of taking 10 Amps (2200(power of element) divided by 220 (low end of possible voltage in your house) ) at the very least, prob 13 to be safe (I can't remember the thickness it should be) but in that wiki page it says that most of those PC cables are only .75mm sq - and that is only rated for 6A.

[Will_D]

Thats why the kettle plug/socket have that spike in the socket and cutout on the plug - to stop people using the wrong lead!!

If you look carefully at some PC leads you MAY find one with 1.0mm2 conductors (like Kettle leads are).

However you still wont be able to plug it in (due to the spike) Just get a kettle lead!

[JimmyM]

Hey you! - less of the exclamation marks!!


Yeah i agree - Some people will take the easy option though - and if you're ripping apart an argos kettle there wont be any spike to stop you plugging in a PC lead. So just a word of warning.

[newToBrew]

yeah -  I bought a new connector and flung it on the pc lead

[Padraic]

bought 2 elements from a local electrical shop  I think they're 2.2 KW each

Where did you get them? I thought charlie shiels was the only place to stock them in Ireland...

[newToBrew]

Wallace Electrical in Waterford - Across From city Square - its a kinda throw back shop - electrical crap - like elements - cooker rings - hoover parts - silly ornaments  - photo development stuff  like that - its been there years 
tbh - they were dear enough - first time in it cost me 7 quid 2nd one was 17 !!
think they made mistake first time round ?

think the kettle lead cost me a tenner - so I got the connection for a pc lead then for a fiver

[JimmyM]

bought 2 elements from a local electrical shop  I think they're 2.2 KW each

Where did you get them? I thought charlie shiels was the only place to stock them in Ireland...

Nah - not at all. You'll get them in lots of hardware shops or electrical shops.