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Hop & Grape Stainless Steel Economy Boiler

Started by Bubbles, March 11, 2013, 12:34:32 PM

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Bubbles

Lads, I'm looking for advice on boilers from some more experienced heads. I'd prefer to go stainless steel (though I could be convinced otherwise) and was thinking about getting this converted pot from Hop & Grape. Looks pretty solid.

http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/public/detailv1.asp?itemcode=STA20252653

The boiler is available as standard with a copper manifold type hop-stopper and a chrome-plated brass tap. For a few extra quid you can convert to a stainless steel false bottom and tap. I'm not sure if it's worth the extra dollars though.

Advice greatly appreciated.

Greg2013

paddy m8 with what they are charging for add on options i would tell them to piss off tbh ;D i have been looking around myself, did you ever consider building your own, it might work out cheaper?
"Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet."  Gen. James 'Mad Dog' Mattis USMC(Ret.)

Padraic

I'd say build your own as well is the best option! But it doesn't look like a bad piece of kit, just a bit expensive!

Bubbles

March 11, 2013, 01:40:38 PM #3 Last Edit: March 11, 2013, 01:41:05 PM by Paddy_Bubbles
Aw Jesus lads, I knew you'd say that!!  ;D

You don't realise how clueless I am with DIY. I would ruin 10 stockpots and still end up with something that leaked.

They are expensive, but I see it as a once off investment. The Malt Miller do something similar but they just cut out holes for the electric elements (for a charge, of course)

http://themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=389

Greg2013

"Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet."  Gen. James 'Mad Dog' Mattis USMC(Ret.)

Bubbles

yeah, I considered the Burco/Buffalo type boilers but I prefer not to have the concealed element. If the element wears out, the whole boiler has to be replaced.

also, some of the posters on JBK have had trouble with these types of boilers cutting out during the boil due to the thermostat. They've bypassed the thermostat but as i say, I'm useless at this stuff.

Greg2013

Paddy maybe if we knew a price range from you it might help ;) ;D
"Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet."  Gen. James 'Mad Dog' Mattis USMC(Ret.)

johnrm

Paddy, if you end up going the kettle element route and run into the age-old 'elements cutting out mid-boil'...
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1356720932

Bubbles

QuotePaddy, if you end up going the kettle element route and run into the age-old 'elements cutting out mid-boil'...
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1356720932

Thanks john that's bookmarked, could come in useful.

I have a preference for the stainless steel option because it seems safer and more durable, but I want a reliable setup. I don't want to be dealing with mid-boil cutouts. What are people here using for boilers? If the brew days at TOG are anything to go by, a lot of the lads seem more than happy with the converted fermenters...?

(btw, I've read that some brewers clean the elements well by boiling a few litres of water with some citric acid. Anyone do this?)

Greg2013

"Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet."  Gen. James 'Mad Dog' Mattis USMC(Ret.)

Ciderhead

Quote
QuotePaddy, if you end up going the kettle element route and run into the age-old 'elements cutting out mid-boil'...
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1356720932

Thanks john that's bookmarked, could come in useful.

I have a preference for the stainless steel option because it seems safer and more durable, but I want a reliable setup. I don't want to be dealing with mid-boil cutouts. What are people here using for boilers? If the brew days at TOG are anything to go by, a lot of the lads seem more than happy with the converted fermenters...?

(btw, I've read that some brewers clean the elements well by boiling a few litres of water with some citric acid. Anyone do this?)

Toothbrush and elbow grease, elements dont like chemicals, bit of oxi if you must

Shanna

I suppose with a boil kettle it  will be a long time before you get calcium build up on the element. It would be different from a domestic kettle that would be used several times a day and had hot water left in it.  Citric acid or even white spirit vinegar should not be a problem for using to clean the element by heating it.  I would be careful though as even though the concentrations are low you don't want hot acids coming in contact with your skin.  Would be a good idea to wach this out thoroughly afterwards.  I would be with Cider head and avoid the chemical route unless it gets covered in carbonate that won't come off with elbow grease. I reckon the position of the heating element would be crucial in keeping it clean.

Shanna
Cornie keg group buy organiser, storeman & distribution point
Hops Group buy packer
Regulator & Taps distribution point
Stainless Steel Fermenter Group Buy Organiser
South Dublin Brewers member

rukkus

I have a buffalo boiler, i have had issue with it cutting out if not cleaned well but i have to say i love the one i have. Requires no work at all if you dont want to. I eventually added a good tap but you can get away just fine with the stock one. Its a really handy size, not too expensive and great for BIAB.

I also have a 36l pot that i heat using gas, it does the job fine but i rather use the buffalo.

Bubbles

Thanks for the comments lads. I suppose cleaning off scorched wort is going to be an issue whether the element is concealed or not. I'd no idea the elements don't react well to chemicals.

Rukkus, I've been tempted by the Buffalo before. In fact, I was thinking of using it as a boiler first then I'd always have the option of re-commissioning it as a HLT if I went down the stainless/fv boiler/keggle route. (There's a really good thread on JBK on how to add a bulkhead & ball valve tap to the Buffalo). Did you bypass the thermostat in yours?

The turkey fryer/propane setup looks excellent but I think I'd get sick of fetching re-fill gas bottles.


For those that have converted fermenters to boilers - would a 6" or 12" bazooka strainer work better? I'm thinking the 12" would allow a quicker runoff of the wort and less chance of clogging.

What's the optimum height on the FVs for the tap/strainer and the kettle elements? I presume the kettle elements should be an inch or two above the tap?

Another question: if I get a bulkhead fitting, I'd like to have a disconnect for the bazooka strainer (for easy cleaning). Which disconnect do I get, the male or female?

Cheers.

johnrm

I'm not sure about bazookas, cheap and cheerful, but they can clog up an need some agitation to get going again.
Google 'hop stopper' for an alternative.