Immersion chiller

[JD]

I've not used a hop spider but I have used hop socks. The effect would be somewhat similar, I'd imagine. I always leave a litre or more in the kettle when drawing off the wort to the FV. Not all the cold break remain in the kettle; some does end up in the FV.

My take on cold break is as follows :

The cold break is mainly proteins. If it is not removed from the wort, it contributes to a haze in the finished beer. Forming it and removing the bulk of it is an important step in producing a good looking beer. Failing to create one and failing to remove it completely will have no real flavour impact but will affect the resulting appearance (haze, etc.).

To ensure you have a good break, you need to chill fast. I use an immersion chiller and a pump to recirculate the wort in the kettle back over the immersion coils.  I also add a teaspoon of Irish Moss to the boil with 15mins to go to help coagulate these proteins. Once chilled, a whirlpool brings the break material into the centre of the vessel. My dip tube has a length of SS braid positioned off centre. This avoids drawing up the break material when draining the kettle. An alternative I've heard done is to position the dip tube  centrally. In this configuration the initial draw off will be mostly break material and can be discarded.

Inevitably, some break material will make it into the FV. The key is to not fret it too much. The only real downside is clarity of the finished product. It will not affect flavour in any noticeable way.

/J

[Will_D]

All very valid points.

If you really want to brighten up old copper ( like the cooler I saw in Tubes back garden last year) then a citric acid solution will do the trick a treat.

I used to use it a safer alternative to Sulphuric acid when making model steam loco boilers!

I will certainly chill in the kettle from now on!

[Ciderhead]

I've not used a hop spider but I have used hop socks. The effect would be somewhat similar, I'd imagine. I always leave a litre or more in the kettle when drawing off the wort to the FV. Not all the cold break remain in the kettle; some does end up in the FV.

My take on cold break is as follows :

The cold break is mainly proteins. If it is not removed from the wort, it contributes to a haze in the finished beer. Forming it and removing the bulk of it is an important step in producing a good looking beer. Failing to create one and failing to remove it completely will have no real flavour impact but will affect the resulting appearance (haze, etc.).

To ensure you have a good break, you need to chill fast. I use an immersion chiller and a pump to recirculate the wort in the kettle back over the immersion coils.  I also add a teaspoon of Irish Moss to the boil with 15mins to go to help coagulate these proteins. Once chilled, a whirlpool brings the break material into the centre of the vessel. My dip tube has a length of SS braid positioned off centre. This avoids drawing up the break material when draining the kettle. An alternative I've heard done is to position the dip tube  centrally. In this configuration the initial draw off will be mostly break material and can be discarded.

Inevitably, some break material will make it into the FV. The key is to not fret it too much. The only real downside is clarity of the finished product. It will not affect flavour in any noticeable way.

/J

+ I leave 1.5 litres behind and its factored into Beersmith, I used to tip the bucket but as JD says was getting cloudy Golden Ales and Pilsners
Also been putting the the Irish Moss 10 mins now instead of 15, "stone him" I hear you say, it has also helped with clearing