Advice needed with REX C-110 + SSR

[Garry]

I bought a REX C-100 pid controller and a FOTEK SSR from here, with the hope of attaching it to a burko boiler for a HLT.


Between the instructions and google I came up with the attached wiring diagram.


I was trying it out last night, using a lamp in place of the element, and I couldn't get it to turn on the lamp. I have left all the settings at default.


Is my wiring diagram correct?


If so are there any settings I need to change to get it working?


Any advice appreciated 

[Garry]

I forgot to mention: when I was testing it, the output indicator light on the pid is coming on, and I can hear the relay in the pid clicking, but the SSR doesn't appear to be doing anything.

[JimmyM]

Howya Garry...
Im not familiar with the pin outs of either device...
But... im assuming (from your 2nd post) your PID jobby switches a relay on/off and the output of that is pins 4 and 5 and goes to the input of your SSR?

Why do you need a physical relay and an SSR following it?

I understand the need for an SSR (no moving parts, can be switched on/off many times a second to vary the voltage into the element )but putting it after a physical relay is defeating its purpose.

Maybe im missing something though.

[JimmyM]

I think you can get rid of the SSR and just connect the 2 outputs of the PID straight to each end of the broken live wire in that diagram your young fella did for ya.

Looks like you're just trying to switch the element on/off based on temp - no need ofr the SSR.

[Garry]

I think the PID only has a capacity of 3A and that's why I need the SSR? Wouldn't the load required by the element fry the PID's relay?

[JimmyM]

Actually... I can see that your PID does pulse width modulation - not sure how that works with a physical relay switch (you said you can hear it clicking) - im outta my depth Sorry

Just see your reply now... yeah that would be a reason.

Dont know what the clicking is - but it ooks like your PID gives you a pulsed out put, and you are using the SSR to handle the load of the element (as you mentioned) - problem appears to be with the SSR either broken or not wired correctly.
Do you have a multimeter - can ya measure the voltage at the various positions?

[brenmurph]

where u based Garry? Im using same gadget working fine.. It is rated at 3 amp so will be fried if u put a 10 amp boiler to it.  Im using it directly to work a 150 watt element.

I think u are wiring wrong.
The SSR needs a 12 volts to trigger it.
The REX does not put out 12 volts at pins  3, 4, 5 so u cant be triggering the ssr using 3, 4  & 5.

The wiring diagram on the device label is what u need to follow not the instructions sheet which is not for your one.

The instruction sheet on your link is not relevant to your device.

The REX can put 12 volt through pins 3 , 4 , 5 if you use a supply from a 12v transformer or battery.

If you connected a mains to your SSR its probalbly fried.

I can test for you...where are you located? we have brew day tomorra in Kildare if u can make it

[Garry]

Jimmy, I'll try steal borrow a multi-meter off the brother later and see what's happening. I have a 2nd SSR so I'll check that too.


Bren, I'm in Cork. Are you using the PID on it's own or with an SSR?






Off-topic, I have the "location" field filled-out in my profile settings, so why can't everyone see it under my avatar? Did this change when we moved to simple machines?

[JD]

The pins 4&5 do not provide power. They are relay contacts. When switched off, they are normally open, when  on, they are closed. You have then wired to your SSR as if they were powering the SSR inputs.

Assuming your SSR's trigger input voltage is able to take 24V, you will need to connect the negative end of the SSR input to the negative DC voltage line. The other SSR input should be connected to pin 5 of the REX. Pin 4 of REX should be connected to a the positive DC voltage line used to power the REX.   

Double check the input voltage levels of your SSR can take the DC voltage you're using to power the REX. If it can't we'll need to come up with another plan.

/JD

[brenmurph]

The pins 4&5 do not provide power. They are relay contacts. When switched off, they are normally open, when  on, they are closed. You have then wired to your SSR as if they were powering the SSR inputs.

Assuming your SSR's trigger input voltage is able to take 24V, you will need to connect the negative end of the SSR input to the negative DC voltage line. The other SSR input should be connected to pin 5 of the REX. Pin 4 of REX should be connected to a the positive DC voltage line used to power the REX.   

Double check the input voltage levels of your SSR can take the DC voltage you're using to power the REX. If it can't we'll need to come up with another plan.

/JD

JD the rex is powered up by mains not dc.. some rex devices are 240v some dc ...garrys one is  mains supply and doesnt put out dc voltage.
As i  my post above a 12volt transformer can be used to supply dc voltage to the ssr using terminals 3,4,5 .

I think Garry has bought a mains REX with no dc facility and has a dc triggered SSR..

Seperate DC supply required.........     Open to correction..........

[JD]

Bren,

Well spotted on the mains rated REX. I was looking at the specs for a 24VDC version.  The REXC100 model used by Garry is a relay output 240AC model. To drive the SSR another DC supply is required that is at least 3VDC and a max of 32VDC. An old DC phone charge may be suitably recycled for the job.

To use a second power supply in combination with the REX, the following steps need to be performed:
* Connect the negative from the DC power supply to the negative input terminal of the SSR
* Connect the positive from the DC power supply to pin 4 of the REX
* Connect pin 5 of the REX to the positive terminal of the SSR.

/JD

[brenmurph]

did u get that garry.....?   all cleared up now.......and we didnt even charge u the 100 euro call out fee!

what a forum...homebrew and electronics

[JD]

That'll be €100 Garry.

Bren, meet you behind the bike shed and we'll split it.

[Garry]

Thanks fellas  [size=78%]
I think I'll try powering the PID with a 12V DC transformer, then pass 12V DC through the PID's relay to operate the SSR. I've just had a look in the bottom drawer of the filling cabinate and found a power supply for an old router. It says 12V DC 1A, should do the trick  [/size]

[JD]

Garry,

The 12VDC will not power the PID. Your model is a 100V-240AC model. It'll be perfect for powering he SSR though.
/J