Advice needed with REX C-110 + SSR

[brenmurph]

garry there are a dozen different variations of the rex and  hundreds of variations of the programming.  The diagram u posted above is a universal that does all rex's. Your highlighted bits dont apply to ur pid

If your one is the one in the link on the first post it is 240volts required into pints 1 & 2.  The output is "RELAY"  you cant change that.

Thats the one you bought.  Double check the label ON THE PID.. If this is the same as the label on the ebay shop link in ur first post you HAVE A 240 volt input to pins 1 & 2.

so pin 1 & 2 you connect mains and follow JD's last comment.

cant have u blowing up ur device or urself... be careful  regards Bren

[Garry]

Thanks again fellas. This is a great forum. I'm not sure about the €100 but I owe you both a bottle of something 


I'll get the young fella to revise the wiring diagram when it's working and I'll post it up later.

[JD]

I'm not so sure that diagram is even right to begin with. It's at odds with the PDF supplied by the manufacturers. The diagram suggests that the RELAY variant has a three pin output with pin 3 common, pin 4 NO and pin 5 NC. The PDF shows that the RELAY variant only has a two pin NO output between pins 4&5. I'm putting my faith in the PDF

http://www.fmfranklin.com.au/products/data/rkc/c100inst.pdf

/JD

[Garry]

Here's a pic of the side of the PID. Should I:


* Connect the positive from the DC power supply to pin 3 of the REX
* Connect pin 5 of the REX to the positive terminal of the SSR.

[JD]

Almost. You're right about pin 3. Pin 5 is NC (normally closed, i.e. connected) while pin 4 is NO (normally open, i.e. disconnected). Since you wish to switch ON the heat when the temperature is low, you will want to connect pin 4 to the positive of the SSR.

We're getting there.
/J

[Garry]

That's it JD, thanks. I have it working now 


Revised wiring diagram attached.

[brenmurph]

ur bang on now.. and I bed ur understanding of relays has improved a bit wiring diagram good.

My PID is exactly same as urs....but remember go by the label on the PID itself dont depend on a downloaded sheet cos all the terminals can be labeled differently.


BTW have you got the SSR operating properly now as well?

I think the confusing bit is that the chinese ebay shop is selling incompatable items as a set.. for the dc triggered ssr device a different rex is needed. Ive got a few different ones on the way from china at the right price however ur one was good value from the UK.

Enjoy ur electronic adventures and dfont forget u have mains electricty on your gismos so be very careful and insulate them well and beware when u are working around water. U wil prob put them in a a sealed junction box ideally so all the live wiring is safe and concealed. Post up ur finished product

[Garry]

Yes, the light on the SSR comes on and I hooked it up to a lamp and it sends the 240V AC power to it    I won't post a pic because it looks a bit dangerous    The finished project will be fully insulated though and I plan to post up pics as I build the HLT.


The PID's actually came from China. They took over 4 weeks to deliver but at the price I'm not complaining. I really don't know how they make a bob out it?

[JD]

I'd second what Bren is saying about safety. You're dealing with mains here on input and output so you're doubly at risk. Earth everything metal and make sure everything electrical or electronic is boxed and protected from moisture.

[lesson]
We're all very happy talking about voltages but volts, unless very high, don't kill you. It's current (aka amps) that kill you and it takes remarkably few milliamps to end you. Only 30mA of AC  or 300mA of DC will throw your heart into fibrillation. So don't take any silly chances.
[/lesson] 

/JD

[Will_D]

Just watching this thread and yes: lessons have been learned:

1. Before ordering electronic kit from any where ( Not just Chinese Ebayers even reputable(expensive irish suppliers ) ) post your design on the NHC.

After all peeps put up recipes for new beers that are not rated at 240v and 13 Amps (Normally the shoch you will get as most 13 A plugs are fitted with a 13 A fuse! For all but heating loads a 3 amp fuse will do!

2. SCRs/PIDs/SSRs/relays/ATCs/STCs et.c etc. all are dead cheap on cheebay but all can KILL you!

3. There is enough safe knowledge and info here to save you:

Money / Time / Wasted Orders / Your LIFE

[Stitch]

Garry I would be slightly worried about lack of earth on your drawing. The controller is no doubt double insulated so will not require an earth. Might be worth putting one on the secondary of the transformer.

[Garry]

Garry I would be slightly worried about lack of earth on your drawing. The controller is no doubt double insulated so will not require an earth. Might be worth putting one on the secondary of the transformer.

Thanks for the reply Stitch. I was going to just fix the earth wire from the mains power cord to the body of the Burco.


How would I earth the secondary of the transformer?


Here's a pic of the transformer I'm using: