drilling holes in keg

[mrtickel]

Has anyone drill the stainless steel keg to suit the kettle elements.
If yes what drill bits did you use?
I tried the holesaw and broke 2 drill bits  so i said i better ask before i break anymore

[mrtickel]

can ya get them for 38mm hole

[Jacob]

Nope not big enough. At least that one I have ...

Sent from my engineering tricorder.

[Greg2013]

can ya get them for 38mm hole

Is your element 38mm diameter or 40mm diameter ? Most elements seem to be one of these two sizes.

[Shanna]

Yes see this thread for details of my  experience.

http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,292.msg3232.html#msg3232

Shanna

can ya get them for 38mm hole

[Shanna]

I would do the following based on my experience of drilling holes for taps and elements in kegs.

Get a couple of planks of wood and lay the keg on its side between the planks. They will stop the keg moving while your trying to drill.

Get a water spray bottle and a mate who will spray the drill hole site every few seconds.

Tap a small dent in the centre of the area where you want to drill your hole. A hole saw will usually use a drill bit in the centre. The small dent will allow the drill bit to gain purchase. 

I would use a wired drill using a hammer action setting. Apply a lot of downwards force and drill slow and steady action. Remember to get your mate to spray continously.  The drill bit will heat up and by cooling it you won't break the bit. Resist the urge to speed up as you will only burn out and break the drill bit or hole saw.

Keep drilling the pilot hole until the hole saw reaches the keg wall and then keep going till you get through the keg wall. This can take some time so be patient. Take away your drill now and take a file and debur the area of any sharp bits. 

Voila job done.

Shanna

Has anyone drill the stainless steel keg to suit the kettle elements.
If yes what drill bits did you use?
I tried the holesaw and broke 2 drill bits  so i said i better ask before i break anymore

[Ciderhead]

Hammer action are you sure
I had my 11 year old hold the hose with cold water directly over the contact point, using both hole saw and step bit, 9 holes later all went through like butter no problems. You are right about downward force.
Used a smaller dill bit for pilot holes.

[Shanna]

Seem to remember that hammer action was what I used.  Although I have a lidl drill so that may explain it. I don't have an 11 year old I had Paddy Bubbles do the spraying.

Shanna

Hammer action are you sure
I had my 11 year old hold the hose with cold water directly over the contact point, using both hole saw and step bit, 9 holes later all went through like butter no problems. You are right about downward force.
Used a smaller dill bit for pilot holes.

[Danny(00833827)]

im hunting a keg myself for a boiler, without knowing which breweries are using SS and which are using ALU, would it be fair to say the duller/oxide look finish on the kegs would mark them out as ALU over the slightly shinier ones which would be SS?

EDIT: found my answer - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/my-keg-stainless-steel-aluminum-89311/

[Hop Bomb]

Those Homebrew Company kettle elements are a bitch to get a seal on in kegs. They come with a shitty plastic lock nut & no amount of rubber seals & gas ptfe tape can seal mine. Load of sh!te. Ive a tiny drip leaking into the socket & it cant be used as it trips the fuse board. Ive fitted one for a mate at the same time & his is fine. Luck of the draw. Few threads over on Jims beerkit with people having the same problems with these same elements from HBC. I believe the cure is one of these  http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/KM8_SKF_Bearing_Locking_Nut-961-p 

[Greg2013]

Those Homebrew Company kettle elements are a bitch to get a seal on in kegs. They come with a shitty plastic lock nut & no amount of rubber seals & gas ptfe tape can seal mine. Load of sh!te. Ive a tiny drip leaking into the socket & it cant be used as it trips the fuse board. Ive fitted one for a mate at the same time & his is fine. Luck of the draw. Few threads over on Jims beerkit with people having the same problems with these same elements from HBC. I believe the cure is one of these  http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/KM8_SKF_Bearing_Locking_Nut-961-p 

Thanks for that info as i was looking into these the other day

[Ciderhead]

the argos elements don't leak, still need a baking tray silicone gasket though

don't forget to save the diaphragm in the wall of the kettle
I got a couple of those heavy duty nuts for my next project

3 months in my shed they aren't shiny any more

[Hop Bomb]

Those elements are fine Deadman. You'll need two though for a boiler as it'll take well over two hours to get to a boil otherwise. My mates one is fine & has no leaks. Beat your keg with a lump hammer to try make the surface as flat as possible too. If you are using a plastic bucket you wont have any issues Id say.

@ Ciderhead - main reason I went for one of these over the argos ones is they are closed in with a cover & the element isnt as bendy so easier to clean.

[Danny(00833827)]

These look like bicycle parts, bottom bracket lockrings - so not only will i be dismantling kettles this weekend, i will butchering bicycles also!

[Hop Bomb]

Ciderhead they are the exact nuts I need. Are they 58mm? Where did you get them?