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Help with boiler?

Started by pk, October 07, 2014, 08:56:56 PM

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pk

Hi all,
My boiler is shutting itself off all the fecking time. It heats for less than a minute and then shuts off for a bit and then on again etc. does anyone know how to bypass the cut off sensor on this yoke? I'm not sure where it is. Anything that was touching off the heating element I loosing the screws and moved them away but it still cuts out.

The boil takes ages and it's not a vigorous boil, more of a simmer. Still makes beer but it's annoyingly slow.

Paul

mcgrath

In the second pic there is a metal torpedo shaped piece held against the bottom of the boiler. I would move this away from the bottom. I'm pretty sure it is a thermostat. If it is away from the bottom it won't get warm enough to cut off the element. I'd try that first.
Your boiler looks very similar to my Swan boiler, but my wiring was different. To get mine to rolling boil, I had to move the sensor attached to the "reboil" button away from the bottom. It looks just like the purple sensor in the middle of your pic with the red and white wires going to it. I just removed the two fastening nuts either side so it rested about a centimeter from the bottom, hence not getting hot enough to turn off. 
I would start with the thermostat first though.

pk

Tried moving both of those away and made no difference. Perhaps the torpedo was still hitting off the hot plate . I'll try one more time.

Thanks
Paul

LordEoin

I'd rip all the electrics out and replace it with a temperature controller to a relay to the element.
Pm Garry and ask for some pics of of the underside of his Burco, I think it's laid out something along those lines.

RichC

@pk, I modified my buffalo so long ago I barely remember but I'm sure there were 3 cutouts. I think there's a thermal fuse in there somewhere. Apparently the current through it will generate enough heat to cause it to cut. You need to bypass this also

pk

Eek, my knowledge of electrics are nil. Any idea how to bypass them? I think I know where the thermal fuse is, I also moved that off the baseplate and it still cuts out!

Maybe I can insulate them next to see if that works.

One question, do t you need the thermostat in there to keep the temperature at whatever setting you want? It's handy to set 16 litres to 67 degrees and go about your business and come back when it's ready and then tipping it into the mash tun

Bubbles

Is that a Buffalo? If so, try searching jimsbeerkit.co.uk for a solution to the problem. A lot of the lads on Jims use the Buffalos.


pk

I don't know what make it is, there isn't a brand name on it anywhere but thanks for the tip. I'll check it out.
Paul

ferg

That's the one mybeerandwine sells.. I have one too... no problems like that for me so far! I get a really good vigorous boil. Do you keep the bottom element clean of scorched wort?

Bubbles

Quote from: pk on October 08, 2014, 09:09:48 AM
I don't know what make it is, there isn't a brand name on it anywhere but thanks for the tip. I'll check it out.
Paul

I did search briefly on Jims for the thread I'm thinking about, but I couldn't find it. The author of the thread goes into painstaking detail (with diagrams) on how to bypass the thermostat. Will have a look again later if I get a chance.

pk


lordstilton

The thermal fuse is in the middle of the picture with the white cable coming from it....cut it at both end and then use a connector block to join the two cables.

pk

Cool, I'll do that. Thanks. Is a connector block one of those yokes you just shove the stripped back wires into from either side and cover with electrical tape?

pk

Actually I googled it, it's grand. Thanks for telling me which bit is the thermal fuse though

rukkus

Just had a blown thermal fuse, is it ok to use a normal connector block to join the wires or does it need to be special for high temp? I have the normal plastic ones but i read porcerlain was recommended due to the heat from the element.