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Question about heating element

Started by Oh Crap, November 18, 2015, 11:55:18 AM

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Oh Crap

I'm upgrading my rig and am getting an element for HLT.. What is the highest Wattage I can get on a normal supply? It will be in a 33L stainless pot, uninsulated, also will be used to house herms coil
Beer
1 is good, 2 is better, 3 is enough & 4 isn't half enough

armedcor

A lot of lads run 3kw elements but I wouldn't be super confident running one of those for a full brew day. Brewpi has one that's a bit over 2.8kw I think. Would feel a lot better running one of those.


SkiBeagle

Regular 13A socket will deliver 3kW (some kettles are 3kW).
Cooker outlets are usually more (20-30A).
Don't assume that 2 sockets will give you 2 x 3kW. They could be hooked onto the same wire. Standard house wiring twin/earth is usually good for 20-25A depending on how it's run. You also have to consider what else is on that circuit (dishwasher, kitchen kettle, washing machine etc can all be heavy loads).
Well worth paying attention to. I ran a new cable so I can drive a 5kW element, so I could be sure about capacity.

molc

I got the 2.8kW BrewPi element and it's comfortable on a 13A extension lead that gets slightly warm to the touch after a full brew day. For more power, I then run off another circuit for a 2kW element, along with my pumps and sundries on a third circuit.
Found the circuits by switching them on individually at the fuse board and running around like an edjit with a desk lamp.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

Will_D

General note about domestic sockets wiring:

Kitchen: is usually on a separate circuit.
Living/dining/hall:  usually on a separate circuit.
Upstairs:  usually on a separate circuit.
Garage(if you have ove one): usually on a separate circuit.

So just run a second (or third) extension lead (1.5mm^2 at least) from another circuit and you are good to go!

Or just pay a Sparks to install a massive 3 phase 65 amp supply*

*Btw: Esb networks may need to be consulted.
Remember: The Nationals are just round the corner - time to get brewing

Sorcerers Apprentice

Using this calculator to get an estimate of element size required
On using your 33 lts plus estimating a 65 deg temp increase works out at 2.5 kW to heat from 10C to 75C within an hour.
https://elementsofheating.wordpress.com/2012/09/26/how-to-calculate-the-kw-required-to-heat-a-volume-of-water-in-a-particular-time/
As mentioned earlier by others a 13amp socket is rated at 3kW and this is the max power which can be used from a socket. Bear in mind that this is the max rating, preferably use a switched socket as removing the plug top under load will soon cause the socket to break down and cause overheating. The cable size of the flex as will says should be minimum 1.5 square mm and preferably 2.5 square mm particularly if you are not using a short lead eg like a kettle.
There's no such thing as bad beer - some just taste better than others

craiclad

Quote from: molc on November 18, 2015, 03:52:50 PM
I got the 2.8kW BrewPi element and it's comfortable on a 13A extension lead that gets slightly warm to the touch after a full brew day. For more power, I then run off another circuit for a 2kW element, along with my pumps and sundries on a third circuit.
Found the circuits by switching them on individually at the fuse board and running around like an edjit with a desk lamp.

How do you feel about the power of the 2.8KW element molc? I'm looking at picking up one of these jobs, but I'm not sure if 2.4KW is enogh power for my purposes.

http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Stainless-Steel-56-Ltr-Electric-Boiler-1.html#.VlL919_hBE4

molc

Quote from: craiclad on November 23, 2015, 12:01:59 PM
Quote from: molc on November 18, 2015, 03:52:50 PM
I got the 2.8kW BrewPi element and it's comfortable on a 13A extension lead that gets slightly warm to the touch after a full brew day. For more power, I then run off another circuit for a 2kW element, along with my pumps and sundries on a third circuit.
Found the circuits by switching them on individually at the fuse board and running around like an edjit with a desk lamp.

How do you feel about the power of the 2.8KW element molc? I'm looking at picking up one of these jobs, but I'm not sure if 2.4KW is enogh power for my purposes.

http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Stainless-Steel-56-Ltr-Electric-Boiler-1.html#.VlL919_hBE4
It works, with an insulated keggle, but only just. I'm going to add a 2kw element to the HLT and BK in additions, so I can boost it and run though a PID keeping the duty cycle lower when boil is reached.
Fermenting: IPA, Lambic, Mead
Conditioning: Lambic, Cider, RIS, Ole Ale, Saison
On Tap: IPA, Helles, Best Bitter

craiclad

Quote from: molc on November 23, 2015, 12:29:58 PM
Quote from: craiclad on November 23, 2015, 12:01:59 PM
Quote from: molc on November 18, 2015, 03:52:50 PM
I got the 2.8kW BrewPi element and it's comfortable on a 13A extension lead that gets slightly warm to the touch after a full brew day. For more power, I then run off another circuit for a 2kW element, along with my pumps and sundries on a third circuit.
Found the circuits by switching them on individually at the fuse board and running around like an edjit with a desk lamp.

How do you feel about the power of the 2.8KW element molc? I'm looking at picking up one of these jobs, but I'm not sure if 2.4KW is enogh power for my purposes.

http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Stainless-Steel-56-Ltr-Electric-Boiler-1.html#.VlL919_hBE4
It works, with an insulated keggle, but only just. I'm going to add a 2kw element to the HLT and BK in additions, so I can boost it and run though a PID keeping the duty cycle lower when boil is reached.

Hmmm... That doesn't bode well for me. I would try and build a system with 2 x 2.4KW elements, but I don't think I'd be able to run that on my home circuit.

Will_D

Craiclad:

You probably haver at least 3 separate circuits (assuming a fairly recent (ssay 30 year old) semi-d or bigger, but may apply to larger apartments)

Conventional wiring wisdom is:

Kitchen: 1 socket circuit
Downstairs: ditto
Upstairs: ditto

You just need to check your consumer unit as all the breakers should be labelled!

But if not:

Sockets should be on 20 amp breakers
Lights will be on 10 amp
Cooker 32 amp
Imersion heater 20 amp

ALEGEDLY!

If in doubt consult a registered electrician!
Remember: The Nationals are just round the corner - time to get brewing

Sorcerers Apprentice

I always felt that we should have had a domestic 32 amp socket for cookers like the Americans do. It would have made changing cookers much easier for people and a handy point for plugging in a brewing rig
There's no such thing as bad beer - some just taste better than others