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Control your boil?

Started by admin, December 12, 2012, 03:54:12 PM

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Will_D

Remember: The Nationals are just round the corner - time to get brewing

Ciderhead

I use a 30A rated on my 2 kettle element boiler.
I used to get a rolling boil and switch one off, not any more.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-LCD-6000W-30A-/290730216178?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:IE:3160
for HLT

Will_D

John, Thats just a 6kW on/off controller.

That is like a light switch - either on or off.

The other SCR is a proportional voltage divider that can "turn down" the rate of boil.

This is more akin to a dimmer switch in the sitting room overhead lights!





Remember: The Nationals are just round the corner - time to get brewing

Ciderhead

QuoteJohn, Thats just a 6kW on/off controller.

That is like a light switch - either on or off.

The other SCR is a proportional voltage divider that can "turn down" the rate of boil.

This is more akin to a dimmer switch in the sitting room overhead lights!





Ooohhh 8-)

Shanna

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christhebrewer

I have 2x25A SSR's switching my elements. The plan (when I get around to it) is to make a simple timer with a 555chip to produce a slow switching square wave. You can then use this to switch the SSR's and have the elements switching on and off to coltrol the boil. Say on for 4 seconds off for a second, or whatever works, pulse width controlled by a potentiometer.  Basicly a PWM. Total cost of components about €3, excluding the SSR which is about a fiver on ebay.
Should be fun playing with it!

Will_D

QuoteI reckon this is post 10,000!

My latest stats show:

The forum contains a total of 9884 Posts within 843 Topics.

Where are you getting your stats from Mr. Tee?


Remember: The Nationals are just round the corner - time to get brewing

DoWn2DiE

QuoteI use a 30A rated on my 2 kettle element boiler.
I used to get a rolling boil and switch one off, not any more.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-LCD-6000W-30A-/290730216178?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:IE:3160
for HLT
would that work for two 2400v 240w elemens in a hlt, thinking of setting up a herms system?

Will_D

Quote
QuoteI use a 30A rated on my 2 kettle element boiler.
I used to get a rolling boil and switch one off, not any more.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-LCD-6000W-30A-/290730216178?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:IE:3160
for HLT
would that work for two 2400v 240w elemens in a hlt, thinking of setting up a herms system?

I assume you mean 240v 2400w !!

Yes is the short answer, your 2 elements will pull 4800 watts - well within the 6000 capacity.

It will control your HLT to 1 C of a set point.

It would not be best for boiler control as both elements are either on or off.

If you want boiler control there is a link above to a more suitable boiler controller that works like a dimmer switch but it will only handle one element. This allows you to set the vigour of the boil.

Will
Remember: The Nationals are just round the corner - time to get brewing

DoWn2DiE

December 19, 2012, 10:52:57 AM #10 Last Edit: December 19, 2012, 10:55:10 AM by Down2die
Thanks will yes I meant 240v 2400w..

I was hoping to immerse a herms coil in my hlt to control mash temps in a uninsulated tun..recirculating through the coil back into the mash.

So I could keep the hlt temps stable with this and in turn would keep my tun the same temp :-? :-/ ???

christhebrewer

It occured to me that with a 2 element boiler you only need to control one element.
For 50% to 100% power one element is on and the other reduced by a power controller.
For 0 to 50% one element is off and the other is controlled.
So for a 2x2.2kw boiler you only need a 16A controller.
Or have I overlooked something silly?

christhebrewer

For herms control I would use the 6kw controller mentioned above. I might even get one myself and use my stc100 and SSR for something else.

DEMPSEY

QuoteThanks will yes I meant 240v 2400w..

I was hoping to immerse a herms coil in my hlt to control mash temps in a uninsulated tun..recirculating through the coil back into the mash.

So I could keep the hlt temps stable with this and in turn would keep my tun the same temp :-? :-/ ???
If you want to build a herms/rims system,I would not go down the path of putting your coil in the HLT. You will not get good control that way because the volume of water in the HLT is too large and will take too long to adjust youe mash liquid temp. The best way to do this is a dedicated separate heating container with a smaller amount of water in it and pass the wort liquid through it. Plan a heat transfer rate of 0.5C per minute to your wort liquid.
jesus I really must finish mine.
Dei miscendarum discipulus
Forgive us our Hangovers as we forgive those who hangover against us

DoWn2DiE

I was hoping to use the herms coil to double up as a immersion chiller, kill two birds, hence using the hlt temp to recirculate.then when mash is finished you'd have your sparge water ready aswell. I know it would take an age to do step mashes but I see a lot of videos of similar setups working well for people.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbbYZ7jHQOM[/media]

I dont want to get into all the tech side of PID, which I did briefly and I might aswell be looking in a ditch. I just want a simple setup with a temp controller with sensor, a cheap solar pump and a copper coil, just wondering if its doable..